2016 Explorer Limited won't start

[elevate]

Hey All!

I have a 2016 Explorer Limited that would not start today. All electronics worked inside of the vehicle along with all commands from the fob except remote start.
This is the second time this had happened.
The ignition button works but we get no cranks sound or warning lights. The car just won't start. The shop we bought it from replaced the starter and battery not too long for this same exact issue.
Now we are back to square one.

Any thoughts?

 

[peterk9]

Welcome to the Forum.
The first I would check is the battery, no matter when you installed it. Have you attempted to get it boosted?

Peter

 

[elevate]

The battery has the correct CCA reading and will not start with a boost.

 

[mguy13sport]

If it does not even attempt to crank then it is the starter. Either its not getting any power or its faulty and not engaging the motor. Since the shop just recently replaced it I would suspect the part is faulty or installed improperly.

 

[Turdle]

Does the starter motor relay click when attempting start?

Location in owners manual. Most likely in power fuse box under hood.

 

[elevate]

UPDATE!
Went to pick up the vehicle because the shop said it has been starting all of yesterday. Upon arrival pushed the remote start on the key fob and the car started with now the issue. Turned the car off and went in to collect the paperwork. Came back out and unlocked the car with the key fob and tried to start it. NOTHING!

 

[elevate]

Does the starter motor relay click when attempting start?

Location in owners manual. Most likely in power fuse box under hood.

Would it click once? I don't think I have heard it click.

 

[peterk9]

Regardless of the fact that you were able to start it once, I'm wondering if it might be the starter that is the issue. I've heard that they can have a 'bad' spot that won't allow them to start. That would also explain why it would not start with a boost. Is it possible to turn the flywheel to see if that might move the internals of the starter to a different spot?

Peter

 

[elevate]

Regardless of the fact that you were able to start it once, I'm wondering if it might be the starter that is the issue. I've heard that they can have a 'bad' spot that won't allow them to start. That would also explain why it would not start with a boost. Is it possible to turn the flywheel to see if that might move the internals of the starter to a different spot?

Peter

The shop said they pulled a code off that it was the push-button ignition.

 

[peterk9]

The shop said they pulled a code off that it was the push-button ignition.

You mentioned that the ignition button works in your first post. Was that determined because you were able to go into accessory mode?

Peter

 

[elevate]

You mentioned that the ignition button works in your first post. Was that determined because you were able to go into accessory mode?

Peter

When pushed it will go into accessory mode yes. The shop was using the key fob from their service desk for a day and a half to start the vehicle. When I arrived to pick the vehicle up, started it when we hit the parking lot with the remote. Then entered the vehicle to shut it off and restart it by pushing the ignition button. The car would not start!

 

[cagiloe]

Hey All!

I have a 2016 Explorer Limited that would not start today. All electronics worked inside of the vehicle along with all commands from the fob except remote start.
This is the second time this had happened.
The ignition button works but we get no cranks sound or warning lights. The car just won't start. The shop we bought it from replaced the starter and battery not too long for this same exact issue.
Now we are back to square one.

Any thoughts?

If it is 2016 3.2 diesel there is a black box just at the positive plug of the battery mouse it this may work.... Ford dealer won't find the problem it does not show in the computer

 

[peterk9]

If it is 2016 3.2 diesel there is a black box just at the positive plug of the battery mouse it this may work.... Ford dealer won't find the problem it does not show in the computer

The 5th gen Explorer does not have a diesel engine. It is either a 3.5" V6 or a 2.3L I-4.

Peter

 

[elevate]

Thanks for all the replies, everyone. when the mechanic replaced the ignition button, it worked up until about two weeks ago. I was able to get it to start by pushing the shift lever forward once and then has started since. Until the other day. Same exact issues as before except the ignition button blinks green.
When using remote start, the key fob will blink green but not start. Then I remembered that I moved the shift lever before and it started. So I pushed the ignition button, no start. I Shook the shift lever from side to side, pushed the button and it started.
Still had it towed to the shop.
The shop can not pull any codes or get it to replicate the problem.
I need to figure this out.

 

[69Mach1]

For what it's worth, I had very similar problem with a 2010 Mustang. Never a problem starting, then for no reason turn the key and nothing. Scratch head for a while, wiggle shifter, turn key off and on, cuss a few times, all of a sudden it starts fine. It did that a few times a month or so apart, then it would be every other week. So I put a new starter in. Fixed the problem for a couple of months then back to same routine. Per inteweb changed key switch. Again worked for a couple of months then back to same thing. Wouldn't start at random times for no apparent reason. Then someone mentioned the starter relay as Turdle did above. Replaced the relay and 2 years later, never had the problem again. It's an easy fix you can do yourself.

 

[Odrapnew]

There's a thread somewhere on hear about issues with the shifter not registering 'park' position, but that usually resulted in a 'shift to park' message on cluster. Maybe you have an intermittent connection at the shifter that works when you put it in park, but after sitting a while, it loses connection?

Intermittent electrical issues are a pain.

As 69Mach1 stated, could be the starter solenoid. If you have a multimeter and can catch it in the act, you could test if it's getting signal to start or not. If it's not getting start signal, then at least you can start tracing it back.

 

[peterk9]

Thanks for all the replies, everyone. when the mechanic replaced the ignition button, it worked up until about two weeks ago. I was able to get it to start by pushing the shift lever forward once and then has started since. Until the other day. Same exact issues as before except the ignition button blinks green.
When using remote start, the key fob will blink green but not start. Then I remembered that I moved the shift lever before and it started. So I pushed the ignition button, no start. I Shook the shift lever from side to side, pushed the button and it started.
Still had it towed to the shop.
The shop can not pull any codes or get it to replicate the problem.
I need to figure this out.

There are a few threads on the "Shift to Park" issue, if that's your problem.

Shift to Park Warning

Shift to Park Warning keeps coming on Out of about 12 trips daily in my 2011 Explorer Limited 19K, at least 3 or 4 times each day I started getting the message "Shift to Park" along with a warning chime after pushing the lever to the park position and turning off the key. I have to move the...

www.explorerforum.com

Won't shift into park. Where to find Ford gear select kit.

2011 explorer limited. Car is put in park but still shows as NOT in park. Has caused my battery to go completely dead. I saw a couple U tube videos with a new wire harness and switch to fix this issue. I cannot get a good part number for this kit. Does anyone know the correct part number from...

www.explorerforum.com

Peter

 

[69Mach1]

Starter relays are cheap, easier to change than a fuse and do get finicky sometimes when internal contacts get a bit burnt. Just sayin....

 

[knotacare]

Hey All!

I have a 2016 Explorer Limited that would not start today. All electronics worked inside of the vehicle along with all commands from the fob except remote start.
This is the second time this had happened.
The ignition button works but we get no cranks sound or warning lights. The car just won't start. The shop we bought it from replaced the starter and battery not too long for this same exact issue.
Now we are back to square one.

Any thoughts?

If your battery is dead or low check the alt. If this is the first battery you replaced after 7 years you are lucky.

 

[Mbrooks420]

If your battery is dead or low check the alt. If this is the first battery you replaced after 7 years you are lucky.

If you read the responses in the thread you’d have seen that attempting to jump it makes no difference, ruling out the battery.