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2nd gen lift question




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I'm on 31x10.5r15 westlakes on some jeep rims with like 3.5" backspacing. Just a little sawzall on the fenders. I removed inner fender when I did my front end. Then when I went to get it aligned I meant to tak to the tech first so he knew to take the inners back off.. he managed to get it aligned though I noticed the nuts for the bolts had the edges rounded a little bit.. I had to go back and tighten the bolts they were not quite as tight as I'd have liked but thankfully the alignment hadn't moved much if at all, tires still look good with some miles and beating on them.

PO had touched the uca b4 and had the alignment spacers 180 degrees out from each other... make sure they face the same way. The bolts can only go in one way on the drivers side IIRC.

I'm at about 7/8" from the bumps to the lca. Theoretically a flatter arm rides better but it rides very stiff with the bilsteins, I've hammered it off the bumps a couple times and I'm kinda curious what hydraulic bumps would do on a stock tbar suspension..
 






Does it matter which way I install the fasteners?
Yes. In order for the alignment to be performed easier, you need to install the bolts back just as they were. I know it seems it would be an easier install if you just reversed the bolts, but you’ll just make the alignment procedure more difficult. Plus, I think the bolts would interfere with the lines and hoses if you install them backwards. Just do it the right way. It’s not really that hard. Just wiggle the arm about and keep working the bolt until it slips through.

I use and recommend the Mevotech TTX line of upper control arms. It’s their premium line for tougher use. The ball joints are sintered and have thicker flanges. I’ve used them on several X’s so far with good results. My experience with moog was not good.
 






Kinda of
They should go in from the inside out
Why?
Because the bolt can’t turn once it’s installed in the adjusters
So you can only tighten the nut after adjusting the camber and caster
This is why the bolts are inserted the way they are

Can you flip them?
Yes

But it makes it very difficult to tighten the nuts
Which is why I still install them the stock direction
If you Unclip the hoses there is room to work in there
Sometimes it helps to put the uca in extreme positions, meaning all the way back in the rear and all the way forward in the front, allowing room to perform the “wiggle”

So it’s best to install them like factory,
Bolts go in from the inside out

I’ve done so many of these it’s just second nature and I curse the design everytime

Mevotec ttx looked promising but after installing them in a few rigs I won’t run them again they did not hold up any better then the crappy
Moogs

Spicer, ac delco professional grade are the ball joints I have been using lately

I’m skeptical of pro forge, ttx, and others they all seem to suck compared to the factory spicer parts
 






Wow! Thanks for all the replies guys! This clears it up! I got a new set of hardware yesterday and I'll put them in today. Since I don't remember how the bolts were turned, is there a way I can set the camber/caster? I'm gonna take it in for an alignment but don't want it so far off it's a pain the the tech.
 






The caster and camber and toe on these are all dependent on each other and there's no possible way to set them yourself without an alignment rack or special old school tricks.
 






The caster and camber and toe on these are all dependent on each other and there's no possible way to set them yourself without an alignment rack or special old school tricks.
Thanks. I was able to find a few videos and it seems like once they're installed it's easy enough for a tech to fine tune it.
 






Good news! Got the front end sorted out and finished! New shocks, wheel bearings, high articulation CVs, ball joints UCA's and tie rods. I still need to do the rear but it looks like the new shocks lifted the front end. I noticed a large lean to the rear when I drove it out of the garage.
Plans are this week do the T bar twist and longer shackles in the rear, new rear shocks and take it to get aligned. Might rebuild the front drive shaft if I have time. New brake line should be in next week so I'll tackle that pinched line then. I think I'm settled on 31x10.50s all said and done especially for what I'm gonna use it for. (Hunting,camping and some snow wheeling/fs roads)

20220329_183036.jpg
 






Good news! Got the front end sorted out and finished! New shocks, wheel bearings, high articulation CVs, ball joints UCA's and tie rods. I still need to do the rear but it looks like the new shocks lifted the front end. I noticed a large lean to the rear when I drove it out of the garage.
Plans are this week do the T bar twist and longer shackles in the rear, new rear shocks and take it to get aligned. Might rebuild the front drive shaft if I have time. New brake line should be in next week so I'll tackle that pinched line then. I think I'm settled on 31x10.50s all said and done especially for what I'm gonna use it for. (Hunting,camping and some snow wheeling/fs roads)

View attachment 427975
Shocks don’t lift suspensions. Did you tighten all of your control arms with the suspension in droop?
 






Shocks don’t lift suspensions. Did you tighten all of your control arms with the suspension in droop?
No exactly full droop, but close. The old shocks may have been factory. There was no rebound. Once it was compressed it stayed compressed.
 






Shocks only control the rebound of the spring the spring supports the vehicle weight

Helper springs can add lift but a shock never will unless it is an air shock and in those the air is acting as a spring

With a simple magnetic camber gauge and tape measure for toe, you can get the alignment close enough to drive it in to alignment dude

Your truck likely looks lifted because no more sag from suspension parts and proper alignment

Well done!!! Truck looks nice
 






Shocks only control the rebound of the spring the spring supports the vehicle weight

Helper springs can add lift but a shock never will unless it is an air shock and in those the air is acting as a spring

With a simple magnetic camber gauge and tape measure for toe, you can get the alignment close enough to drive it in to alignment dude

Your truck likely looks lifted because no more sag from suspension parts and proper alignment

Well done!!! Truck looks nice
Thanks! For my toe In I loosened the lock nut all the way and threw a band of tape around the rod to mark the end of the tie rod and spun the new one on to get it close. I drive it briefly and it's not bad. I'm excited to get it dialed in. Plus it's always nice getting a second set of eyes on it to make sure I didn't miss anything.
 






looking good! cant wait to see it lifted!
 






No exactly full droop, but close. The old shocks may have been factory. There was no rebound. Once it was compressed it stayed compressed.
You should tighten all of the control arm mounting hardware with the suspension sitting on the ground under regular compression. It may be sitting high because the preload on the bushings since you tightened everything with the suspension in droop. Loosen them all at once and then retighten.
 






Yes if you tighten the control arm bushings before you set the truck on the ground you can rip the bushings
The bushings have a set range of motion
 






Yes if you tighten the control arm bushings before you set the truck on the ground you can rip the bushings
The bushings have a set range of motion
Good to know! Ty I'm gonna Clean the shop out today and bring the explorer back in to do a little more work before it's alignment tomorrow. Should I loosen one at a time then re-tighten? Or both before re-tightening?
 






It took at least 80-100 lbs to compress each bilstein 4600 shock (very high gas charge) when I installed them on my explorer.. that's a combined 160-200 lbs, which could provide an increase in ride height... The lateral stability shock for the rear axle was very difficult to get installed.
 






Shocks with built in springs (helper coilover/strut/ air / gas) are similar to an airbag they help the spring carry the load which yes can increase ride height
Until they wear out

I would loosen all control arm bolts with the truck on ground at ride height and then bounce the suspension a little to reset the bushings and then finally Re torque
 






FYI gen ii explorer torque values

Lca at truck is 111-143 ft lbs
Uca at truck is 84-113 ft lbs
 



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Shocks with built in springs (helper coilover/strut/ air / gas) are similar to an airbag they help the spring carry the load which yes can increase ride height
Until they wear out

I would loosen all control arm bolts with the truck on ground at ride height and then bounce the suspension a little to reset the bushings and then finally Re torque
Thanks for the tips! I'll do that today.
 






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