4.0 + NP435 X BW1350 X BW1354 X 3.73 = 153 to 1 crawl ratio

[RockRanger]

Ilustration (this is with 4.88's and 35's though):

So what would it be like with 3.73 gears and 37"s Eventually that will probably be the drivetrain once I get the trans in and the do the SAS cause that is the gears I already have. Then Ill do a gear ratio swap after that. I was thinking of eventually going 5.13 but with no OD I think that will really kill anykind of road driveability. Maybe Ill go to 4.56 instead.

Cool chart though jefe thanks for making that out.

 

[410Fortune]

I will get the pics and info for you ASAP sir.
The adapter will fit any Ford block, its made by Canton, its billet, and very high quality
$60

I have not run my oil filter yet but I have heard you want to keep it low so the oil doesnt drain out and close so it doesnt stress the pump. I will try to get it into the path of the air from the mechanical fan too for better cooling, a good spot would be on teh frame rail just aobve the ptman arm....or where my ARB compressor currently resides, right where your charcoal canister was on your 86.

 

[RockRanger]

so that canton one just threads right on to where the oildfilter was? How thick is it? please say it around 1.5" thick or less. That is about all the space I think I may have before it will start running into the starter.

I also went out and peaked under my truck. I think I am going to mount the oil filter on the passanger side frame rail dirrectly across from the power steering pump. Nice big flat area there. Only down side is then changing the filter itcould leak oil all over the steering linkage.

 

[Jefe]

Cool chart though jefe thanks for making that out.

No problem. I already had it made because I was wanting to compare the 700R4 to stock and to other options. . . I just had to add your option.

Ok, here you go.
This shows your M5, 3.73 and 31's
(let me know if its close to current or not, I did the calcs really quickly)
And then the NP435, 3.73, and 37's
(and actually I think that'd work very well )
EDIT: And I've added the NP435, 37's and your other two gear choices
Note that with 513's 70 = 3500 rpm; 80 = 4000

 

[RockRanger]

here is the picture of the canton one I found on the net

 

[RockRanger]

that 3-4 shift will be pretty bad. I can see myself haveing to really wind the motor in third before shifting to 4th especally if I am climbing a hill. thanks for the graph makes it much easier to see.

 

[410Fortune]

that is the one I got, it fit the 4.0L and the 5.0L block....but you have to use the right block adapter, it comes ready to thread in place of a FL-1a so it should fit the 4.0L without any parts from Ford

 

[Jefe]

I edited my above post

 

[RockRanger]

I edited my above post

Thanks jeff. I think 4.56 will probably be teh best way to go when it is all said and done.

Now go answer my question from 2 days ago in your 700r4 swap thread

 

[Jefe]

Now go answer my question from 2 days ago in your 700r4 swap thread

Sorry. No I haven't. However I have an appointment for tommorrow. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[FROADER]

RockRanger, Jefe and 410Fortune

All three of you are crazy!!

 

[Jefe]

RockRanger, Jefe and 410Fortune

All three of you are crazy!!

Um. . .Thanks

 

[RockRanger]

So I went around town today to try to nail down a few odds and ends thatcould cause some problems. Basically here is what I found:

1. The bearing that goes on the front of the tranny input shaft looks like it goes in the flywheel to hold it. This will make the adapter I need to build from the 4.0 crank to the 5.0 flywheel much easier.

2. The bolts that hold the flywheel to the 4.0 will have to be used. I couldnt find a bolt with a smaller head. This may or may not cause a problem I think I can work around it though so it sholud be fine.

3. The bolts that go in the back of the 4.0 block can be had with a countersuck head that uses a hex wrench. This means I can get them even with teh adapter so the flywheel wont hit them.

4. The rest of the bolts I will need look to be fairly standard bolts that can be had off the shelf.



I plan on trying to draw all the parts I need up in CAD today so I can start getting prices on what it will cost to have them cut. Anyone of know of a place that can do that in Socal? I am thinking of having the first set cut out of thin ie. cheap material so I can double check all my measurements and make sure everything lines up. then if it all good have them cut out of the material I plan on using.

One thing on the 4.0 I do need to figure out what to do is on the two bolt holes/dowels that stick out the back to help line up the bolt holes. How neccesary are those? What kind of problems will I have if I take them out/ grind them off? Are they mostly there to jusyt help line stuff up or do they give some strength to the system. It sure whould make everything easier if they werent there.

I also need to figure out the shafts and how to have them cut. I saw Moser can do it on there website so I might give them a shot and see what tey come up with. I am a little concerned about strenth after having them cut down though. I hope the cut ones will work otherwise new custom shafts will be $$$$

The only thing that I can really see stopping this project is if I can't get a starter on due to clearance issues with the oil filter adaper/ oilpan/ block. I am 95% sure one of those super small starters will fit but just need to get measurements of them to make sure. Thats what I plan on doing tommorow.

I have a wheeling trip planned in the middle of may so I would love to have everything done by then and installed. I know it is kind of pushing my luck but if I cant get it all installed then the mazda tranny is going back in so I can go wheeling.

 

[410Fortune]

middle of may? Hell you can do that hahahaha

OKay, first off the locating pins are there to help line things up, I am sure they do add some minor anti twisting strength to the assembly but they are not required once all the bolts are in.

I see you already got some sort of CAD and know how to use it? good job

You are in CNC heaven in So Cal, you should be able to find somebody to cut those parts, you could try contacting some local shops like Camburg or similar and see who they use for their waterjet/lazer/cnc or whatever they use these days to cut plate...

I bet if you knew somebody with a plasma you could make your own preliminary mock up pieces, print the templates 1:1 scale down at Kinko's trace them out and cut with the plasma.....

OH and I will get those dimensions for you this weekend. Good luck with all this!

 

[RangerX]

Matt, two places to check; Stinkyfab in Vista. It's Stinkbug on this board and on Pirate. Also, Amplified Performance in Oceanside. They did my cage, and have a CNC.

 

[RockRanger]

OKay, first off the locating pins are there to help line things up, I am sure they do add some minor anti twisting strength to the assembly but they are not required once all the bolts are in.

QUOTE]

Do you know if I can just pull them out of the block with like a pair of pliars or is it going to be better to go in and grind them off?

Now I just need to find a place that can print some of my CAD drawings in actual size so I can test them and see how close my measurements are.

 

[410Fortune]

Kinkos can do full size plots.
I have no idea how the pins come out, I always used them, but I would suspect they are a press fit. Dont forget one of them or bothm cant remember, have the bolt goes through it so dont pull it out if it will jack up the threads, just cut them off flush or drill holes in your bellhousing/adapter where they will now go...

 

[RockRanger]

I went to kinkos last night and they couldnt negotiate how to do it I am going to try a differnt one today and hopefully that store will have someone who can make it happen. I do think that printing them off like that will be much cheaper the doing it out of steel and then seeing that they fit. I hope today to beable to nail down all of the design of all the parts I will need.

 

[410Fortune]

Find another Kinko's, those guys are idiots.

As long as you drew it to scale and good reprographics shop should be able to take your .dwg file and plot you a full size sheet, then check the scale of the output plot.
I deal with reprographics places all the time, we dont use Fed Ex much anymore its cheaper to send the files electronically, have them printed locally, then delivered to the client...

 

[RockRanger]

tried anothe Kinkos and they couldnt do it. they said "We cant print CAD files" and that was it. The lady was not friendly at all. I think I am going to have to try a blueprint shop and see what they can do. Ill have too look one up in the phonebook. Here is one of the drawings I did I printed it up on my computer. All the downloaded cad programs I have wont let me print to real size. They give me two choices. Print to fit on sheet, or scale to print on sheet. Here is the scaled version and it comes out pretty close to what I drew dimentionatly but is only half the size i need it.