How to: 4.0 OHV Refresh

[DP96XLT]

I just figured I would follow-up here.

I looked at my intake on the vehicle as it sits, and the engine was 100% original with 42k miles when I got it a few years ago, and I DO have the phenolic spacer on mine. It is a 1996 XLT 4.0l OHV. The spacer has a green paper gasket above and below it. I called a buddy and asked why some of those spacers would be missing on some models (he is a Ford tech for many many years) and he stated that some of them actually broke when you removed the fuel rails. Most of the time was when someone did a replacement and didn't have the silicone embossed paper gaskets and used RTV to seal it to the intake and the fuel rails, or, worse yet, is when a tech tried to clean off the paper gaskets with a whizz-wheel and ate the spacer up. He has also seen intakes over-torqued and the phenolic spacer crushed and deformed (which also meant a deformed upper intake manifold as well). He did mention he remembers FelPro made a graphoil spacer "kit" that also included the other o-rings and gaskets needed to do a complete job. He also echoed my view that if you cannot get a hold of a 90732 gasket kit (the aformentioned FelPro "kit") that a set of the siliconed gaskets that are supposed to go on the phenolic spacer would work "in a pinch" on a used FelPro 90732. He also stated that you really don't need to use them if you have a new 90732 gasket kit.

Oh, I also asked why some models don't have the spacer at all, and he stated that some models (he believed the Ranger was one) considered it was "unnecessary" since it technically raised the torque-band and was used to limit the amount of heat transferred from the lower intake to the fuel rails. He believed that possibly the minivans that got this engine setup also did not get it because of the fact it raised the intake and that was unacceptable with the limited space to begin with.

Personally, it just goes to show that they will use any excuse to not use something that "helps" because it will save them a buck. I don't doubt the Ranger was an "economy" model and they stripped as much as possible from it. Same thing with the minivans back then.

 

[97Sandbox]

I do believe the 90732 "gasket" is a "phenolic spacer" replacement given it's sheer thickness and the aluminum spacer bushings built into it.

That's my guess too.

Personally I would try to get a hold of the same 90732 and then I WOULD use it with both of the paper gaskets included in the gasket kit. It surely wouldn't hurt and would give extra sealing around the ports. I am certain though that Fel-Pro intended the 90732 is intended to be used "by itself".

This was one route I was considering, but I am concerned the "gasket stack" would get too tall and there might not be the proper compression on the injectors after assembly. My thinking is; if the FelPro gasket was designed to take up the space of the phenolic spacer and two paper gaskets, adding two Mahle gaskets would bring the stack up to the thickness of the spacer plus four gaskets. As your tech buddy said, it'd probably work, but wouldn't be ideal.

I ended up digging up this thread and found the OEM spacer part number is F6TZ9E436C (thanks @fast_dave). The spacers are available on ebay for under $20 shipped, so I just went for it. From what I saw online, that's around how much I'd pay for the FelPro gasket. And by going OEM, I can peel off the paper and use my Mahle gaskets on the next rebuild!

 

[DP96XLT]

Actually, the injectors seat so far into the fuel rail and the intake it is a non-issue to stack them on the FelPro "spacer" gasket. But, you did even better by getting the OEM spacer.

Half the problem is looking up some of these parts. I have found online parts suppliers, even places that state they are "OEM" at time do not have ALL the parts online. They only list what they sell which is just ignorant. I refuse to buy from a supplier that cuts down the catalog to save themselves some online access from a customer. That is just stupid. You can tell these places ALL use the same system as well.

 

[97Sandbox]

Happy New Year everybody!

Last night I pulled the valve covers and lower intake manifold -- man those gaskets were crispy! I noticed the intake manifold gasket that was installed is all one stamping whereas the Mahle kit comes with two separate gaskets.

It looks to me that the Mahle gaskets still seal around all the important areas, they just do so in a different way -- can someone confirm the two-piece gaskets install without having to do anything special?

Once the manifold was off, I uncovered a camshaft synchronizer that does not look new, so I plan to replace it. RockAuto has these synchronizers listed as 3 Pin, 2 Pin with step on plug, and 2 Pin without step on plug -- how do I tell which one I need? I also noticed there's a big variation in price between brands. Can anyone recommend a good aftermarket brand, or is this a situation where a Motorcraft part really is worth 4x all the other options?

Last question for now: what's a good method to break the harmonic balancer bolt loose if I can't bump the starter? I'm trying to thing of ways to get creative with the old serpentine belt...

 

[Pete Deering]

I just figured I would follow-up here.

I looked at my intake on the vehicle as it sits, and the engine was 100% original with 42k miles when I got it a few years ago, and I DO have the phenolic spacer on mine. It is a 1996 XLT 4.0l OHV. The spacer has a green paper gasket above and below it. I called a buddy and asked why some of those spacers would be missing on some models (he is a Ford tech for many many years) and he stated that some of them actually broke when you removed the fuel rails. Most of the time was when someone did a replacement and didn't have the silicone embossed paper gaskets and used RTV to seal it to the intake and the fuel rails, or, worse yet, is when a tech tried to clean off the paper gaskets with a whizz-wheel and ate the spacer up. He has also seen intakes over-torqued and the phenolic spacer crushed and deformed (which also meant a deformed upper intake manifold as well). He did mention he remembers FelPro made a graphoil spacer "kit" that also included the other o-rings and gaskets needed to do a complete job. He also echoed my view that if you cannot get a hold of a 90732 gasket kit (the aformentioned FelPro "kit") that a set of the siliconed gaskets that are supposed to go on the phenolic spacer would work "in a pinch" on a used FelPro 90732. He also stated that you really don't need to use them if you have a new 90732 gasket kit.

Oh, I also asked why some models don't have the spacer at all, and he stated that some models (he believed the Ranger was one) considered it was "unnecessary" since it technically raised the torque-band and was used to limit the amount of heat transferred from the lower intake to the fuel rails. He believed that possibly the minivans that got this engine setup also did not get it because of the fact it raised the intake and that was unacceptable with the limited space to begin with.

Personally, it just goes to show that they will use any excuse to not use something that "helps" because it will save them a buck. I don't doubt the Ranger was an "economy" model and they stripped as much as possible from it. Same thing with the minivans back then.

Happy New Year everybody!

Last night I pulled the valve covers and lower intake manifold -- man those gaskets were crispy! I noticed the intake manifold gasket that was installed is all one stamping whereas the Mahle kit comes with two separate gaskets.
View attachment 425019 View attachment 425020
It looks to me that the Mahle gaskets still seal around all the important areas, they just do so in a different way -- can someone confirm the two-piece gaskets install without having to do anything special?

Once the manifold was off, I uncovered a camshaft synchronizer that does not look new, so I plan to replace it. RockAuto has these synchronizers listed as 3 Pin, 2 Pin with step on plug, and 2 Pin without step on plug -- how do I tell which one I need? I also noticed there's a big variation in price between brands. Can anyone recommend a good aftermarket brand, or is this a situation where a Motorcraft part really is worth 4x all the other options?
View attachment 425022

Last question for now: what's a good method to break the harmonic balancer bolt loose if I can't bump the starter? I'm trying to thing of ways to get creative with the old serpentine belt...

The synchronizers: The difference is the synchronizer you show in the picture has a replaceable head ( or cap) which you need to purchase the alignment tool ($30). Other synchronizer has a wane in a window. No tool required. I see you have a 2000 4.0 L OHV (then in post you have 96?). The window synchronizer is for the X engine 4.0 OHV 93-95. See my writeup for replacement for the X engine.I believe the synchronizer shown in the picture with a replaceable head is a two wire and the window synchronizer is a three wire unit.

 

[DP96XLT]

97SandBox, the one piece intake manifold gasket you pulled is just like the one I will be using to replace my factory one. On the one piece you just RTV the corners where the head meets the block (4 locations only) and set that gasket on and then put on the intake manifold. You do not use any more RTV and you need to be sure the "sealing surfaces" are clean and dry before starting the process.

The two piece intake manifold set you have is what most of the suppliers have gone to. In your case you put RTV from one head to the other on the front and back with a thick enough bead to be sure it will seal against the intake and block, going up the head about 1/4". Again you need to be sure the sealing surfaces are fully clean and dry. Once you put down the RTV you need to immediately put on the gaskets, centering them on the ports and making sure they are fully "into" the RTV at the corners. Verify that the RTV is still thick enough in the corners (sometimes people put the gasket on and mess with the RTV too much and it could be a leak location), add more if you need to (you want to be sure when the intake manifold goes on it presses down into the RTV so it oozes out a bit) and then install the intake manifold.

Using the two gaskets is not much different than most other engines, except these don't have locating pins or tangs. On the one piece you have much less RTV to mess with and with the locating tangs I believe they center on the underside of the intake manifold. Since I haven't done mine yet they may actually end up clipping into the intake manifold first and then you install the entire manifold and gasket as a single operation. The idea being that you are much less likely to have a gasket "shift" and block an intake port or be "thin" in a coolant port location that could be problematic in the future. If I am wrong and the two piece gasket set somehow "clip in" somewhere with positive retention I wouldn't think it would be a big deal at all except for having to run a bead of RTV compared to just putting a dollop of it at each corner.

But, alas, I decided to go "the easy way" and get the once piece gasket. It was recommended by my Ford tech buddy so I just did as was suggested. But, either way, if I had the 2 piece set on hand I would go that route without hesitation as well. Installing intake manifolds are not rocket science as long as you pay attention to details.

 

[EB4X]

/\ This. And check that same video at 7:41 mark and forward where guy points out areas how it was missing RTV...already self explanatory by sight but just for elaboration.

 

[97Sandbox]

If I am wrong and the two piece gasket set somehow "clip in" somewhere with positive retention I wouldn't think it would be a big deal at all except for having to run a bead of RTV compared to just putting a dollop of it at each corner.

Thanks for the replies everyone! The two gaskets do have some tabs that I bet help to align them. I'll take another look and maybe some pictures too.

 

[fast_dave]

CLEANLINESS IS 80% OF THE JOB = NO OIL LEAKS

NOTE THE TALL BEAD OF MAHLE BRAND RTV SEALER FRONT & REAR OF ENGINE BLOCK WHEN USING THE TWO PIECE MAHLE GASKETS. BEADS SHOULD TOUCH CORRESPONDING UNDERSIDES UP ALUMINUM LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD, PREVENTING VALLEY OIL LEAKS.

FOR TRUE LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD TORQUE RESULTS, BOLTS AND CORRESPONDING BOLT HOLES SHOULD BE CLEAN AS A KITCHEN TABLE. UTILISE A TAP OR BORE CLEANING BRUSH/SOLVENT/COMPRESSED AIR/CLEAN RAGS ON BOLT HOLES.

UTILIZE PERMATEX BLUE ON LOWER INTAKE BOLTS TO PREVENT LOOSENING AFTER HEAT CYCLING & VIBRATION.

REPLACE DRIVER SIDE VALVE COVER PCV GROMMET WITH A NEW ONE TO PREVENT AIR LEAKS WHICH WILL CAUSE THE ECU & IAC VALVE TO HUNT FOR THE CORRECT IDLE SPEED. NOTE DIFFERENCE IN NEW VS OLD I.D. IN PHOTO.

 

[97Sandbox]

@fast_dave as usual your pictures are incredible!

Did you disconnect the engine harness, or just lift it and tie it out of the way? Right now it seems to be my biggest remaining obstacle on top of the engine. Did you also completely pull out the AC compressor?

I do plan to clean the daylights out of everything before any reassembly -- I'm fully prepared to put in a few hours with my wire brushes.

 

[fast_dave]

First, I always remove the hood.

(4) Bolts and it makes all the difference in the world both light wise and stress wise.

To protect the fragile 23 year old wiring harness, I felt removal was the correct solution.
Removal also allows you to clean it off and re-tape where necessary.

Disconnect A/C Compressor from block (do not disconnect A/C lines), and bungee compressor to a plank that extends across both front fenders.

Front Fenders paint is protected by being covered with thick cardboard.

Plank/Compressor can be moved around during reassembly.

Main movement limiting factor is how much to safely bend 23 year old A/C Lines that have spent their time connected /routed one way...

 

[DP96XLT]

OK, one BIG thing I have to disagree with is EVER using thread locker on engine bolts. I hear of idiots wanting to use them on head studs, people worried about the intake bolts backing out, etc, etc... Sorry, a properly torqued engine bolt will NOT back out. If it does back out that means the bolt was not torqued properly, or the proper torque spec was not used, or in the worse case the bolt is stretched and won't hold torque, which means it needs to be replaced before it fails.

Honestly, think about it. Thread locker is MEANT to lock threads together. If you have to do the job in the future you are SCREWED in trying to get all of the thread locker out of the hole and to get it off the bolt you are going to have to wire wheel the bolt and make the threads worse.

Also, in regards to head studs, talk about ignorance, especially in regards to studs that go into water jackets, you use sealant on the threads and the threads are meant to tighten up when apply torque to the nut. If you use thread locker you are more likely to crack the thread sealer when torque down the nuts, thus CAUSING a leak point in the future.

Thread locker has it's place. Holding bolts in from high-vibration locations is it when a proper torque spec cannot be applied. Nothing with a torque spec is meant to be used with thread locker unless it is specified by the manufacturer (and then it is a hack to fix an engineering flaw). Too many backyard mechanics use stuff "just to be sure" when it is the wrong place.

No offense to those that had some idiot tell them to use it and they just followed along, but proper engineering principles are used vs "shadetree" efforts 100% of the time. Now, if the manufacturer released a TSB to "fix" an engineering problem with it, that is totally different, but I would most CERTAINLY need to see the TSB before I would use it just because someone said "it is a good idea".

And, if a bolt is too worn to be torqued properly, buy a new bolt. If a bolt hole is too worn to hold torque, helicoil it.

 

[DP96XLT]

Also I am a BIG proponent of using as little RTV as possible to get a job done. The corners should be the ONLY place RTV should be used with a self-sealing gasket. Unless the instructions state that a bead should be used you do NOT need to use two types of sealer (a built-in silicone bead or RTV, but not both). Only the corners need to be used with single piece gaskets because that seals the meeting point of the head and the block.

Too much RTV is 100% responsible for far more problems than people are hoping to prevent in most situations.

 

[C420sailor]

MOTORCRAFT CAM SYNCHRONIZER

Unless you want to replace an aftermarket in short order

 

[EB4X]

/\ I think we're on the same page, but to make clear, he DOES need to make two beads of RTV, front and rear, being his TWO-piece replacement gaskets do not cover those areas like the large all-compassing ONE-piece, (like what was removed / original ). As shown in Fast Daves pic.
I didn't see anywhere where someone was suggesting using RTV with the gaskets, except for as you, others mention, in corners only.

 

[DP96XLT]

/\ I think we're on the same page, but to make clear, he DOES need to make two beads of RTV, front and rear, being his TWO-piece replacement gaskets do not cover those areas like the large all-compassing ONE-piece, (like what was removed / original ). As shown in Fast Daves pic.
I didn't see anywhere where someone was suggesting using RTV with the gaskets, except for as you, others mention, in corners only.

Oh we are most certainly on the same page. Everything you stated is correct. I do believe I stated as much in my reply... And, yes, I can get a bit "wordy" in explaining things so it might now have been as clear.

 

[DP96XLT]

Also, I mentioned the RTV because "fast_dave" said taht you should run a bead of RTV for the Mahle one-piece gasket. I know Mahle sells a one piece, but 97SandBox has the Mahle 2-piece gaskets, which DO require that bead.

I know the one-piece (like my Apex gasket) does NOT require a full bead, just the corners. I HIGHLY doubt the Mahle instructions for their one-piece state that you are supposed to use a full bead across the block from head to head in front and back as that defeats the purpose of a one-piece gasket in the first place, which is to make sealing easier, foolproof and without mess.

Honestly, there are those that would argue that a one-piece gasket with integrated block seals do not even need the RTV in the corners, but given the fact that no one knows the history of parts and even if they are "supposed" to fit with minimal gap, it isn't worth the chance for a leak, so you put a dab of RTV at the corners.

Manufacturers are funny like that... For years GM had seals that were considered "permanent" and didn't need RTV and never leaked, yet you look at modern engines in the past 8 years and they have gone back to using RTV at areas of "questionable gaps". Sad part is a lot of those same areas are also where you now get leaks. For as much as things move forward it is sad to see so much slide backwards, since it is obviously a surface prep problem as for why the RTV didn't work when it was obviously applied is sufficient quantity to make sure a leak didn't happen as it does.

 

[Abramwithda1991fourdoor]

I kn

I'm hoping to bring my recently acquired '00 Sport back to a healthy baseline, and would welcome any suggestions.

The engine runs strong and without any noticeable issues, but has ~260k miles on it. It appears to be seeping oil from the valve covers quite a bit, and there's a very slight coolant leak that looks like it's coming from the water pump.

As a matter of preventative maintenance, I'm considering replacing the following:
- Valve cover & intake manifold gaskets
- Thermostat & gasket
- Water pump and gasket (RockAuto suggests replacing the fan clutch too?)
- Plugs & wires
- Accessory drive belt, tensioner, and idler pulley
- Coolant flush and refill
- Fresh, synthetic 5W-30 and a Motorcraft oil filter
- Motorcraft fuel filter

Is there anything else anyone recommends to bring this engine back into shape?

Oh, and I'm also planning to put fresh Merc ATF in the M5OD and replace the shift lever bushing too. Is it a good idea to go ahead and flush/bleed the clutch?

Thanks for any input!

Iyou probably already know about how the M50d has plugs that like to leek. If it's really low when you too it off I would reach up and feel for leeks.

 

[97Sandbox]

Moving right along!

I pulled the balancer this afternoon and hope to have the timing cover pulled tomorrow.

I noticed a few chips in the rubber on the face of the balancer -- does that warrant a replacement?

I also want to ask again if you all recommend reusing the balancer bolt or replacing? Thanks!

 

[97Sandbox]

Oh, and for anyone wondering, I was able to use the old belt to hold the balancer by cutting it and wrapping one side around the pully and tying the other end around the tensioner bolt. It was a little sketchy, but worked fine in the end!