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410Custom's builds a 2007 Ranger V8 - custom truck build - Project "Ranger Premier"

Interesting, internal seam welds do protrude quite a bit in some cases. What kind of flow numbers did you get if you can post it? I had not thought of testing the flow of an exhaust part, but that's not a bad idea. I have a pair of 1 5/8" shorties as spare to use on my 347 when I first put it in my Lincoln. Long tubes are tough to do right in a car, to not hang down too low. They may be Mac headers also, I don't think they are BBK.
 



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Interesting, internal seam welds do protrude quite a bit in some cases. What kind of flow numbers did you get if you can post it? I had not thought of testing the flow of an exhaust part, but that's not a bad idea. I have a pair of 1 5/8" shorties as spare to use on my 347 when I first put it in my Lincoln. Long tubes are tough to do right in a car, to not hang down too low. They may be Mac headers also, I don't think they are BBK.
In stock form they flowed 432 cfm
After cleaning them up.. 567 cfm
What is interesting, these to are only 1 1/2 primaries and outflow stock MAC 1 5/8 foxbody header. Look in the end of the headers by the collector 3/4 x 3/4 of an inch is all you get Even BBK.







Interesting, internal seam welds do protrude quite a bit in some cases. What kind of flow numbers did you get if you can post it? I had not thought of testing the flow of an exhaust part, but that's not a bad idea. I have a pair of 1 5/8" shorties as spare to use on my 347 when I first put it in my Lincoln. Long tubes are tough to do right in a car, to not hang down too low. They may be Mac headers also, I don't think they are BBK.

 






Excellent. Those are good benchmark numbers to work towards.
 






Do you think a 2.5” shock/coilover would fit the TTD kit? Instead of the 2.0” they recommend.
 






I am not sure? Maybe I can look into that when I get the suspension installed

Back at it folks.......schedule is cleared the hot part of summer is here, perfect time of year to moonlight in the shop = Time to focus on the 07!!!!!!

I spent half a day blowing the dust off the truck and collecting all the boxes of parts, then I started turning wrenches..........

The 2007 ranger no longer has a rear axle, it has been removed.
The front differential has also been dropped
The front 2007 Ranger dana 35 SLA differential and a 98 Explorer 31 spline 8.8 axle will be headed to town to be locked and geared.
Plan is 4.56 ring and pinion, ARB air locker for the rear

Next up it was time to install the new Brett built, High Plains Performance 4r70w transmission and new torque converter
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with the trans on the trans jack I fill the converter with one quart of mercon V and stab it up, 3 clicks all the way back. The converter hub is also treated to a light film of assembly lube
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Key to stabbing an auto trans is to get the correct angle from engine block to bellhousing
Then line up the converter studs with the holes in the flexplate. Make sure the scatter shield and alignment dowls are in their correct positions and then finally bring the trans to the engine using some bellhousing bolts
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Line it up
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start two bolts
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check again
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Now tighten BH bolts to bring trans flush with engine block
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Stabbed and aligned
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Now install converter nuts, 14mm, 4ea. 5.0 uses a 15/16" socket on the crank pulley to turn the engine around and gain access to converter studs. Engine rotates clockwise

The first converter nut will draw the converter forward 3/8", this is how you know you have stabbed a Ford RBV auto transmission correctly


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Install remaining BH bolts
Install transmission dipstick tube and retainer bolt.
Now cleaning the transmission cooler lines in preparation for install
 






Now for the transmission mount


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1-1/8" of height was removed from the stock cross member with plasma cutter to accommodate our new Prothane mount
New piece of plate was plasma cut to fit on top, surfaces prepped with grinder and part fully welded.
Cross member was test fit and measured for the mount holes.

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small notch needed for bolt clearance Clarence
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Crossmember was cleaned, de burred, and given about 5 coats of flat black tractor enamel

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Nice of Brett to include a drain plug

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Tailhousing is located 3/8" to the passenger side vs a stock explorer 5.0 transmission mount.
This helps with rear driveshaft angle and 4406E transfer case to frame clearance.
Some 5.0 conversions that use the 4406 t case will develop a driveline vibration at 60-70 mph..... This is how you fix it

Transmission cross member and mount fabrication complete, transmission is installed.
Dropped the pan to install new filter....what do you know Brett shipped trans with filter installed!
Pan was cleaned and re installed

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You can see the this 4r70w is using the 99-01 style solenoid pack and hard wiring harness.........ooooh la la. Anytime we run a 4r70w we ditch the older solenoids and wiring for this improved version


Back at it again tomorrow.
Next up is custom 07 ranger to 5.0 returnless fuel rail fuel line I have sorted out
07 ranger to 5.0 power steering pump high pressure line solution I have been working on
 

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Looks like this isn’t your first rodeo. I wonder if Brett would build me a hybrid m5od?
 






why didnt i ever think of using wood for the tans jack!!!! here i was ready to make some type of adapter for the jack, but not after seeing that!!!!
 






Yes we made a simple wood adapter to fit the 4x4 4r70w and 5r55e pan so the trans would sit level on the dang jack

Brett will build you a hybrid m5od yes, he is quite capable of that AND he lives way closer to you then to me!
He has started a nice website! There is even a pic of his 64 fastback at red rocks......droool drool you guys have not seen a nice 64 fastback until you see Bretts creations

High Plains Performance | Drive Trains & Transmission

Thanks dudes it feels good to be working on the 07 finally, I had ALOT of projects to complete so I could make the time to focus on this build.
 






Looking good! Hybrid M5od ? ? Interesting thought . . .

Enjoying the build.
 






running that front end with a drop bracket kit is not a good idea and i would have to advise against it. dual rate on a 10 or 12" stroke shock will not benefit you. i would definitely sick with using the frame mounts and a single rate 8" coilover. which is what im guessing that kit is built for.
if you want a 10" dual rate i would build a custom shock tower to accommodate the shock while using the normal control arm mounting points.
but even then youll be using a 16" long spring with a short 4 or 5" light (500#) tender coil that will do nothing other than keep the main spring in tension at droop.
 






understood, as you know I am always tossing idea's around, not all of them come to fruition.
What about running a LT +2 kit with drop brackets do you not like? The leverage placed on the brackets? the geometry of the kit? Just wondering why you advise against it?
 






its gonna change the whole geometry of how the kit cycles with the shocks. if the drop bracket kit doesnt drop the upper arm pivots youre gonna be changing the angle of the upper heim causing it to bind early resulting in a loss of down travel "droop" as well as losing caster probably.
if it comes with a longer cast spindle...well thats just a bad idea all the way around due to leverage and such.
wheels/ arms wont bump out where they are supposed to and youll have a super tall monster truck ride height with no added ground clearance since the drop bracket will be hanging way down there
to add...
a +2 drop bracket doesnt mean you can fit a 2" longer shock in there. assuming the kit is built for a 8" shock which most ranger kits are, the difference between a 8" stroke king and a 10" stroke king is probably close to 3-4" at the collapsed length depending which series you go with and such. meaning your shock will be bottoming out 1 or 2" too early. remember youre at a close to 2:1 shock to wheel motion ratio with a arms so 2" loss of uptravel at the shock translates to a 4" loss of up travel at the wheel.
 






understood
All of those issues can be addressed except the strength of the superlift cast knuckle, which have proven to be very stout.
We are not doing barstow at 75 mph in this truck......
I do have a very good understanding of suspension geometry and will make sure everything cycles as it should "cleanly" Mock up is happening now....
We do not want the shock or heim to be a limiting factor that is for sure.
I do believe the suspension will cycle better then you are thinking though, we are simply dropping the LCA down and adding taller knuckle....and then adding a mild +2 LT kit to take advantage of as much travel as the SLA will cleanly give, rid ourselves of the weak stock parts, as well as ditch the T bars and gain some clearance for larger tires.
I seriously appreciate the input, no kidding, discussion forums = please feel free to discuss the build and comment as you see fit!
I will keep a close eye on the mechanical advantage at the shock mounting location, the cv angles, and heim movement..thanks!
 






what is your overall goal with adding the drop bracket?
 






Mocking it up should display the potential suspension geometry well.

What I visualize is the changes helping most, with the UCA angles, allowing those to be more horizontal for a given ride height.
 






what will a horizontal upper arm do for him?
 






Drop brackets are just like a body lift, used to clear larger tires. Larger tires = more ground clearance and traction. 35's are the goal for now possibly on stock wheels.
He does not want to run fiberglass or cut the fenders for flares on this rig "yet"
Something about a really fresh paint job hahahahaha

Also it will be different from other Rangers :)
 



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well if thats your goal then yeah a drop backet and limiting up travel will be the ticket to fitting 35s. to me, up travel is the single most important thing when talking about offroad ride quality so its kind of counter productive to limit yourself just cuz the front fenders have nice paint on em, but it aint my truck and so to each their own. im sure itll be fun regardless!
 






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