410Custom's builds a 2007 Ranger V8 - custom truck build - Project "Ranger Premier"

[410Fortune]

that is the memory seat module it also has the power and heat functions travel through it so I had to retain it on the drivers side. The 14 edge donor came with 6 way power heated seats, drivers memory
If it was a Lincoln mdx they had 10 way power climate seats, still a very Similar seat.
These seats are can bus

I used a series of relays on this truck for the heated backs and butts
Simple push button heat is on until you turn it off.

My 97 f350 has Lincoln heated and cooled seats, in that’s truck I used relays and 7 pole switches to reverse polarity for the heat and cool functions.
We could also use the stand alone seat climate control modules from say an Escape or superduty here to control the seats.

In the seat donor “edge” the dash mounted hvac controls also controlled the seat heat and I believe the memory seat switch also in the dash or door panel.. those parts I do not have.

With just heated pads I kept this truck simple. Button on = heat. No timer no low and high settings.. these could be added later. I researched the heck out of this
There are some utv seat heater kits cheap enough with high and low settings, some have 6 way heat adjustment, but nothing with a timer or thermostat

I am thrilled to have two working seats like we intended… the manual sliders are better anyways otherwise you gotta sit there and wait for it to move to get in the back. I had power sliders in my bii and eventually converted back to manual lol

Next I will cover all the wiring I have done for the seats as well as the console install , shifter, and Holley pcm wire and mounting
I’m very pleased with how this came out, really updated the older ranger interior and it’s super comfortable

 

[CDW6212R]

I agree, that's an excellent use of available parts and options.

I began searching for the features and options of the six speed model F150's, basically the shifter choices and how they varied. I'll wait to deal with the Sport function and dash indicators(PRNDM21), but the hardware I narrowed down, I might get them soon through Levittown here, the vendor member. The hard part is deciphering new parts descriptions, what option words they use mean(leather seats, or leather handle, arm rest, or shift boot etc). I've got four part numbers for the main shifter assembly, all within $9 of each other, but no clear description of the material on the lever or boot, nor color. Some had red thread on the boots and lever, I guess there may be other colors too. I just want basic black leather. My console trim has the CF already from 15+ years ago here in a group buy. I wish we or others would do those group buys again, the cost for that surface dipping/painting of parts is really high individually. Think near $100 per sq/in, that's very high.

 

[410Fortune]

While the seats were being fabbed I was also working on the center console. I had the seats mocked up and at first I was like "no way will this console fit between them....then I started to fiddle with it and turns out it would work! It is tight but it works!!

How? Lets recap

The console comes from a 2008 Mariner, it is really a neat piece!! Now that I made it fit I really like the way this turned out

So first of all the shifter from 08 Escape has already been installed. These consoles and shifters are almost a foot tall. A ranger console is only 7" tall (off the floor) at the shifter hump, so the mariner console needed to be shaved down quite a bit. The escape shifter already had 5" of plastic removed chopped down as far as I could take it without getting into the mechanicals of the shift mechanism

The shifter can use the stock 5.0 or 4.0 shift cable with a few modifications. I had a shift cable in the shop from a E350 van E4od that ended up working out perfectly. I had to make a metal bracket on the transmission side to hold things in place.

The Escape shifter includes wiring for the OD off button (two wires) shifter illumination (green wires) and the brake pedal / park shift interlock.
All of these were wired using stock wiring and connectors from the ranger steering column. Wires were run behind the stereo and into the console, to the shifter,. A 8 pin plug was added so the shifter can easily be removed if needed.

Once the shifter had its height reduced, the shift cable was sorted out and the wiring hooked up it was time to place the console. Measurements were taken, cardboard template of the floor was made and the console was shaved down to match the new shifter height, around 7"

Bye bye plastic bits

Two wooden blocks were fabricated and screwed through the ranger metal floor, one in the far back and one just in front of the shifter. These will mount the console. The shifter luckily mounts to the console, which makes it easy to find the correct placement. The console is very very strong when mounted with 6 screws. This shifter is mounted with 2 screws into the console and two screws into the front wood support.

Getting closer!

Once mock up was complete I had to make a wiring pass through for all the Holley wiring to come up through the floor. The shifter cable also goes through the new modified floor plate. Rubber boots were used to make things weather tight. The holley PCM is going to live under the front of the console, I spent much time finding the perfect location for all of the things that need to live in the console and the dash.

Here is where the shifter mounts to console w two screws from the side, thank goodness sometimes things go out way

Start the wiring pass through made from stock ranger floor plate

Location marked and pilot holes drilled

Good start

I did not get any pictures of the wiring pass through final, basically a rubber boot was used to go around the wiring bundle and through the floor it is held right to the cables with zip ties and the holes were finished off with silicon so no noise/ dirt or water can find it’s way through

Now time to mount the Holley pcm
I really wanted to put it in a location where the diagnostics leds could be seen through the console. So that is what I did

This is where the Holley will live, in front of the shifter above the restraints control module. Plenty of room for the bundle of wires and also for airflow around the pcm

I made a simple metal bracket to pickup the front mount of the Holley using one of the mounting screws for the restraints module as the base

The rear of the Holley is held tight to the console with zip ties

 

[410Fortune]

Now to make the lights visible I had two options, cut a slot or drill 8 holes… so some testing was in order

Holes look better then the slot so I measured and templates and measured some more. The 8 holes have to be close to perfect for this to work. Only get one shot to drill into the console here. Holes were drilled cleaned up with file and razor blade

Will it work? Would be almost two weeks before I would find out

Can see mounting blocks and rough edges console still in mock up phase

Leds are visible I hoped
Like heck this would turn out
One of my favorite mods of all time (25+ years)


The Mariner console also has an access panel on the passenger side. Lucky for us this made it so the Holley fuses and relay can be accessed without taking the console apart. This panel was missing from our eBay/ junk yard console so I had to order it will be here soon. It will get trimmed to fit and the whole area was finished and trimmed out later

Cardboard templates being made for transition from ranger dash to Mariner console

 

[410Fortune]

So now with the console, shifter, pcm, and seats sorted out it’s was time to install mountain of electronics into this dash/ interior

Pumpkin double din head unit with navigation
360 degree Birds Eye camera system
Heated seats switches and wiring
Arb compressor and locker switches
Usb ports for dash access for camera system and stereo memory storage
Turn signal and heated side mirrors
Finishing the instrument cluster and more

So before I go to
Much further I needed to run some power into the interior for the seats and console. If you remember from earlier in the build we had some power feed wires left inside the under hood fuse box. I used 3 of the factory fuse spots here and their respective wires. 1
40 amp fuse for seat power, 1 40
Amp fuse for seat heaters and 1 30
Amp fuse for accessory battery constant power. Wires were run through the firewall pass through grommet and into the console/ dash. Fuses were put back in these three spots

Finding the perfect spot for all of this stuff and installing it custom is what I pride myself on, since I was 15 I have been installing stereos and electrics, I turned 50 earlier this month

 

[vroomzoomboom]

love the spot for the ecm. wish i had that room with a stock explorer console.

 

[JoshT]

love the spot for the ecm. wish i had that room with a stock explorer console.

I still want my like button.

I'm putting an Explorer (Sport Trac) console in my 99 Ranger, just pulled it fron a donor last week. I don't think I'll be using the rear controls and have considered deleting them along with the duct work. Just can't see reinstalling all of that plastic when it won't be used for anything. Plenty of room for installing the ECM.

For a first gen Ranger, I was going to follow 410's example with the terminator. At current I'm planning to stick with the Explorer EFI system in the 99 Ranger, simply for the clean stock appearing install and ease of installation. That said, since Moates tuning has closed up shop, plans may have to change again depending on what I do to the engine. His wire routing for the ECM looks good and well hidden to that is a plus. I'm interested to see the finished product with everything cleaned up and tucked away. I don't know where the 2007 stock ECM is located, but if it's same place as the 99, I'm curious to see how he handles deleting the stock computer location.

 

[CDW6212R]

I still want my like button.

I'm putting an Explorer (Sport Trac) console in my 99 Ranger, just pulled it fron a donor last week. I don't think I'll be using the rear controls and have considered deleting them along with the duct work. Just can't see reinstalling all of that plastic when it won't be used for anything. Plenty of room for installing the ECM.

For a first gen Ranger, I was going to follow 410's example with the terminator. At current I'm planning to stick with the Explorer EFI system in the 99 Ranger, simply for the clean stock appearing install and ease of installation. That said, since Moates tuning has closed up shop, plans may have to change again depending on what I do to the engine. His wire routing for the ECM looks good and well hidden to that is a plus. I'm interested to see the finished product with everything cleaned up and tucked away. I don't know where the 2007 stock ECM is located, but if it's same place as the 99, I'm curious to see how he handles deleting the stock computer location.

The 2nd gen console has a big air duct running along the floor and back to the rear controls/vents. It feels like about 3" thick at most, but thicker than the stock PCM. So the Holley computer may fit if it's not too wide when laying on the floor if you removed that ducting.

The Holley EFI seems to be fairly user friendly to tune yourself with, the Pro M is double and some say self tunes well. But if you are willing to pay for tuning and/or don't want to do it yourself, the OEM PCM's will do fine. For normally aspirated engines, the 2nd gen Explorer PCM's are fine and you can work with the stock wiring, locations etc. Those are the 1st gen OBDII PCM's. If more is needed due to adding boost etc, then the 2nd gen OBDII PCM is better, and the most common and cheap to buy is the 03/04 big Ford models(Crown Vic). Those use the stock PCM connector, and most good tuners can use it with the existing engine harness and sensors. You can add COP also if you'd like. But the tuning is expensive of course, and maybe half of tuners still use the Moates QH, which is now out of production. One place still sells it within a tuning package($599). They(coretuning) don't do tuning as a service, but can recommend people, and it's their software in the packages which others use(decipha does not use their software).

 

[410Fortune]

The 07 pcm is under the hood in the cowl just like a 99 however it is a completely different shape and size the 99 pcm will not fit in there easily

The Holley ecm is like 10” wide but it’s only 2” tall and 4” deep need to give lots of room for the wire looms to bend

I sent myself 20 emails yesterday full of pictures I got tired of trying to add them from my phone…. Lots of pictures are coming
The interior came out so well
Wait till you guys see!!

 

[JoshT]

The Holley EFI seems to be fairly user friendly to tune yourself with, the Pro M is double and some say self tunes well. But if you are willing to pay for tuning and/or don't want to do it yourself, the OEM PCM's will do fine.

If I go aftermarket it will be Holley, unless someone comes out with a unit like PiMP for for the OBDII vehicles. For those that may not know, PiMP is a plug and play MegaSquirt ECU that works with some of the OBD-I stock wiring harnesses. Its marketed (and made?) by Stinger Performance, primarily for 2.3T and 5.0L Fox platform Fords (Mustang, Thunderbird, etc). It's actually built in a Ford ECU case and connects directly to stock harness.

I'll most definitely be looking to pay for tuning regardless of what system I use. The aftermarket stuff may be "self-tuning" but there is a limit to how much they can do without a little help. They work better with atleast some effort put into basic tuning. I'm not afraid to admit that it is outside my sheelhouse, and not something I want to tackle learning any time soon. I'd rather spend my time turning wrenches and burning wires, let someone that knows what they're doing press the buttons.

For normally aspirated engines, the 2nd gen Explorer PCM's are fine and you can work with the stock wiring, locations etc. Those are the 1st gen OBDII PCM's. If more is needed due to adding boost etc, then the 2nd gen OBDII PCM is better, and the most common and cheap to buy is the 03/04 big Ford models(Crown Vic). Those use the stock PCM connector, and most good tuners can use it with the existing engine harness and sensors. You can add COP also if you'd like.

Honestly, I'm not really sure what you are getting at here. Is it a difference in the programming in the ECU that makes them better? How much work would it take to make a 03/04 "Crown Vic" run, lets say a 99-01, 5.0L Explorer? I'd assume that it isn't simply plug and play.

COP on a 5.0L would be kind of getting away from that stock appearance, but it is definitely up for consideration if I go the aftermarket EFI route.

But the tuning is expensive of course, and maybe half of tuners still use the Moates QH, which is now out of production. One place still sells it within a tuning package($599). They(coretuning) don't do tuning as a service, but can recommend people, and it's their software in the packages which others use(decipha does not use their software).

I know. Moates closing is one of the biggest things that has me uncertain about what route to take. Even if coretuning still has some, I don;t know that I want to purchase a tuning device that not only is no longer suported by the manufacturer, but also the manufacturer is no longer in business.

 

[CDW6212R]

If I go aftermarket it will be Holley, unless someone comes out with a unit like PiMP for for the OBDII vehicles. For those that may not know, PiMP is a plug and play MegaSquirt ECU that works with some of the OBD-I stock wiring harnesses. Its marketed (and made?) by Stinger Performance, primarily for 2.3T and 5.0L Fox platform Fords (Mustang, Thunderbird, etc). It's actually built in a Ford ECU case and connects directly to stock harness.

I'll most definitely be looking to pay for tuning regardless of what system I use. The aftermarket stuff may be "self-tuning" but there is a limit to how much they can do without a little help. They work better with atleast some effort put into basic tuning. I'm not afraid to admit that it is outside my sheelhouse, and not something I want to tackle learning any time soon. I'd rather spend my time turning wrenches and burning wires, let someone that knows what they're doing press the buttons.



Honestly, I'm not really sure what you are getting at here. Is it a difference in the programming in the ECU that makes them better? How much work would it take to make a 03/04 "Crown Vic" run, lets say a 99-01, 5.0L Explorer? I'd assume that it isn't simply plug and play.

COP on a 5.0L would be kind of getting away from that stock appearance, but it is definitely up for consideration if I go the aftermarket EFI route.



I know. Moates closing is one of the biggest things that has me uncertain about what route to take. Even if coretuning still has some, I don;t know that I want to purchase a tuning device that not only is no longer suported by the manufacturer, but also the manufacturer is no longer in business.

The 1st gen OBDII computers aren't ideal for a boosted engine, the 2nd gen's such as the 03/04 PCM, they are faster and thus easier to tune for anything. I have an 04 PCM to put in my 92 Lincoln using a spare Explorer 302 harness, plus a 2001/02 Mustang harness(fits the body well). I was going to use a 1997.5 Explorer PCM, but the 04 PCM is easier for the tuner to work with. I am planning to add COP to it also, the extra cost will be about $325 and brackets(the new crate 7.3 Godzilla engine uses COP(the part number for that COP kit is $325 or less)).

The PimpXS EFI system is also very good, but it's only for the older EEC-IV connector(60-pin). That's a $1k system new still I believe, but it doesn't run a transmission.

That one can be used without a MAF, so it can be speed density if needed. I so far am planning for that in my 73 Ranchero to run my 351 Cleveland with a carb intake and EFI, no MAF. That doesn't run the 4R70W, but they have an add on module, $350 or so IIRC. I'm leaning to using the more popular Quick Shift 4 for the trans in that project.

 

[JoshT]

The 1st gen OBDII computers aren't ideal for a boosted engine, the 2nd gen's such as the 03/04 PCM, they are faster and thus easier to tune for anything. I have an 04 PCM to put in my 92 Lincoln using a spare Explorer 302 harness, plus a 2001/02 Mustang harness(fits the body well). I was going to use a 1997.5 Explorer PCM, but the 04 PCM is easier for the tuner to work with. I am planning to add COP to it also, the extra cost will be about $325 and brackets(the new crate 7.3 Godzilla engine uses COP(the part number for that COP kit is $325 or less)).

BTW, the PimpXS EFI system is also very good, and can be plugged into almost any OBDII(1st gen(1996-2004)) PCM connectors. So you could plug that into your Explorer in the stock location, and move some wires around for any that differ. That's a $1k system new still I believe, but it doesn't run a transmission.

That one can be used without a MAF, so speed density if needed. I so far am planning for that in my 73 Ranchero to run my 351 Cleveland with a carb intake and EFI, no MAF. That doesn't run the 4R70W, but they have an add on module, $350 or so IIRC. I'm leaning to using the more popular Quick Shift 4 for the trans in that project.

Are you sure about your PCM information?

I think there is some mixing of termonology that isn;t helping. Probably my fault for the way I wrote my previous post.

There's a 60 pin EEV-IV computer which I thought were all OBD-I compliant. Then there's a 104 pin EEC-V computer that I thought were all OBD-II compliant. My understanding is that ALL of the 5.0L Explorers used the 104 pin EEC-V computer and were OBD-II compliant. I know that the two 1998 NRT1 strategy Explorer 5.0L computers ahve 104 pins and say EEC-V right on the label.

All versions of PiMP are made for the 60 pin ECU which, per their website, would be 83-97 Ford EEC-IV, OBD-I appliocations. I have looked into these because I've got an 85 2.3L Ranger that I'm thinking about turboing and using one on.

FWIW, if you have an application where the PiMP will work, there is a version of it (PiMPxShift) that includes a Microsquirt TCU that can control the 4R70W. I'm following this as well because it seems they are in the process of adding ability to control the 4R44E to the Microsquirt TCU, and that could be put could be put behind the 2.3L. If they are working on the 4R now, it shouldn't take much more work to add the 5R. I wouldn't mind having a computer controled 5 speed "frankentranny" behind my future 2.3L turbo.

 

[CDW6212R]

I'm sorry Josh, you are right, the PimpXS is only for the EEC-IV, I thought I had read that the 3rd generation was OBDII, and it's not. That was the in a Corral thread about the differences for MS2 and the MS3, all but the MS3 were batch fire, and someone was trying to use their old MS2 to run a SEFI 302. I'm sorry I mixed those up, the PimpXS has to be used with the EEC-IV older 60-pin connector.

If you are working on a 2.3 turbo, I'd rather have the OEM 2nd gen OBDII computers, and a good tuner familiar with those. They can tune that very well, but it would mean altering your wiring harness, which isn't that bad if you start with one that isn't really brittle. The wiring condition is very important, your 1985 wiring isn't the greatest, nothing like a new high dollar harness of course. But a late 90's or better harness would be a little better to start with.

I'm going to edit my last post, so nobody else is misled by my error.

 

[JoshT]

I've got several planned and ongoing projects, and have kind of bounced between them when talking about the EFI stuff.

1968 F-100 4x4 powered by a 360 FE wearing a Holley Sniper EFI. Not entirely sure what the future of this one holds. For now I just need to get the brakes working right and the Sniper system tuned in better. For the latter I'll be finding someone to do remote tuning.

1999 Ranger 4x4. Currently powered by a 4.0L V6 auto transmission. Next time it needs major engine or transmission work, or I finish the other projects, I plan to have a 5.0L based drive train ready to drop in. I'm torn between following Jamie's example with the terminator, and sticking with a "stock" EFI system. I like the stock system for easy install and factory appearance.

1985 Ranger 2wd. Currently UNpowered by a 2.3L and automatic transmission. I intend to get it running as is and moving under its own power, then I need to tackle some major rust repairs in the floor pan, or decide its too far gone, pull the drivetrain, and scrap the rest. Assuming that it gets saved, it will probably eventually get a 2.3L Turbo swap. The current plan is to buy a new repalcement harness and the PiMPxShift from Stinger performance. Not only do I like the capabilities of the PiMP (MS3) system, it'll look very similar to a factory install and put the ECU right back in the stock location. If it doesn't get saved, I'll probably still build the engine eventually and something like a Locost 7 around it.

 

[Josh P]

I sent myself 20 emails yesterday full of pictures I got tired of trying to add them from my phone…. Lots of pictures are coming

You can't plug your phone into your computer with a usb cable and transfer that way? I use the file explorer on my pc to clean up my phone, faster than doing it on the device

 

[410Fortune]

If the usb cable would work sure, for some reason I could only access like 10 pics in my browser home from the pc not the 10000 I have in there. Not wanting to sit in front of the computer all day I went back into the shop. During lunch I simply chose the photos I need and emailed them much easier to catalog them and post them that way. Since my phone charges kinetic I rarely have a good cable anymore (kids ruin them quickly!)

The truck is doing awesome hahaha

 

[HarryN]

If the usb cable would work sure, for some reason I could only access like 10 pics in my browser home from the pc not the 10000 I have in there. Not wanting to sit in front of the computer all day I went back into the shop. During lunch I simply chose the photos I need and emailed them much easier to catalog them and post them that way. Since my phone charges kinetic I rarely have a good cable anymore (kids ruin them quickly!)

The truck is doing awesome hahaha

I have the same general problem getting photos off of a cell phone.

I finally just gave up and bought a Panasonic G9. It is super simple and fast to transfer photos off of it via USB to a computer. I use linux and my wife uses windows. Both work just fine.

My son is a perfectionist so he will only work with raw files, but I am completely happy with the jpg s that it creates automatically / internally.

I crop / compress the files on line using images to go. Img2Go.com - Online photo editor and image converter

Super lazy man's way to do it.

I tend to drop phones, so now I just purchase $100 - 150 phones vs fancy ones and skip using the phone / spyware feature.

 

[410Fortune]

allright so when I left off we had finally installed the drivers seat
Now we need to see how the console went together
but first some exterior progress

just FYI the front bumper has also been to paint and is getting installed along with its winch and lights
Some different options for driving lights were considered before finally settling

all bumper bits were cleaned, Primed, and painted, then fit, then final coat

I was looking at running two lights in the hole a 5" round and 3" round, I wanted a driving light at fog...... the hole in the bumper is an odd shape to fit lights into. Then we tried a single 8" led bar and everyone outvoted me......so the single 8" bar is what we are going with. The good news is I get to keep all the cool other lights for our own rigs. These are cheapo's not some $400 Rigid leds but $29 china knock offs

still plenty of room on top for additional forward facing driving lights if wanted later

these little 8" bars have fogs, driving and side shooter leds should be pretty bright FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY> We will add some actual fog lights down lower that can be used on the street

 

[410Fortune]

interior/electronics and center console

What a mess!
Looking at options for Lawrence wayfinder

shifter is mocked up, head unit wiring complete, gps and wifi antenna run to dash, early stages of center console install and time for the camera system

For the console shifter I needed some wires. I needed illumination (for the shift indicator letters), two wires for the overdrive cancel button, and two wires for the park shift interlock (press foot on brake can take out of park)

illumination wire is from headlight main switch

park interlock and od button come from the old steering column shifter
using 2007 ranger wiring book and 2008 escape wiring info for the console shifter

wires run and a plug was added so the shifter can be serviced/removed

white wire feeds park relay, 2007 does not have, it is there if I find a need for it
The shifter was easy to align with the console even after shaving 5" off the bottom of it because two of the mounting holes are to the console

I added door edge trim to finish the plastic cut edges
console is mounted to two 7.5" wide pieces of 2x2 treated lumber. Wood was screwed through the floor
front of shifter is supported and held down by the same piece of wood that holds front of console to floor
Console is very stout once all screwed down

LOTS of wiring to do inside console, it is the perfect place to stuff some of these things
The Holley PCM was CARFEFULLY lined up to the console, and those 8 LED holes were drilled

test fitting the top /shifter bezel

mariner console has this cool pop out mount for the small tray and big bucket. You can mount this little tray in 3 different spots!

You can even hang the "big bucket" from the console on the back or side to act like a trash can, drink cooler? Handy

the lid looks like it holds kleenex
there is also a ton of room inside the center cubby
The rear has another small cubby down low and a 12V power port, which I have powered.

more coming later I have to go work in the shop!!

wait until you see how this turned out...........

 

[410Fortune]

coming together

Here you can see final power and plugs were run for the seats
red wires in the console are from the under hood power dist box fuses we just added. 40amp for seat heat, 40 amp for seat power, and a 30 amp for accessory power to power the Lawrence, camera system, and more

the seats got the other end of the plugs, so they can easily be removed

duriong

speaking of wiring time to install the head unit, some switches, radio bezel and heated seats

radio is a double din, the usual trimming is required. I made it strong with some metal brackets to hold it tight to the center bezel

fit! Now time to convert one of the 12V sockets to usb ports with voltage gage

Now I know where I want to put the ARB compressor and locker switches, as well as the driving light switch and a couple more USB ports
inside the stock Ranger lower pocket/cubby thing it is the perfect spot!

So I had to modify it to suit, again with ABS plastic

So I am adding two USB ports here because one is for stereo memory / access and the other is for the camera system memory/storage

I purchased a two USB Port receptacle on Amazon. It came with a nice solid 90 degree bracket/mount. I used it as the support for my plastic switch face. I used some scrap plastic screwed to the sides to make it so the switch faceplate slides in, allowing this to be taken apart and modified easily.

I cut the hole for two switches on both sides and used a blank I had in the shop, easy to add another switch if needed later