410Custom's builds a 2007 Ranger V8 - custom truck build - Project "Ranger Premier"

[Josh P]

Almost there. I do like the picture of the dog staring at you.

 

[410Fortune]

Ignition Wires now double shielded
I added motorcraft 820s oil filter and 5 quarts of 5-30 full synth. I’m ready to turn the key
I need a battery
I have 5 batteries here they are all junk
That battery that was in here went south
In the am I’m going for a new one… then we get To hear this new engine run

I am ready for tuning
I have my pc setup in the shop and a Holley data cable, software installed.
Hopefully will be tuning this week

As some of you already know, I am debating relocating the single Bosch wideband 02 sensor into the x pipe. This way it will tune and monitor Both banks.

This is desirable to me because we had a cylinder in bank 1 melt down. The 02 sensor for the terminator is in bank 2. Instructions say to install the single sensor in the bank that usually runs “lean”. In a 302 that is bank 2. So that is where I installed it, 18” from collector bank 2.

If you research this Holley says no.
Keep single 02 sensor monitoring single bank for terminator

You can add a second 5v wideband sensor to the other bank simply for monitoring. I did discover this in my research.

However I also have discovered I am not the first to go down this path. Several others have e placed the sensor downstream where it can monitor both banks.. and have had success.
The only place I have in this exhaust where the two banks meet is the magnaflow 2.5” crossover pipe

Approx 24” rearward of where the sensor is now. I am told the terminator will not mind this at all, it is actually very user friendly and will respond to this no problem

I will be discussing this with our tuner first thing. I am armed with knowledge and examples

I am mad at myself because my topside creeper was rubbing on the rad support when o pulled the engine last… I *****ed up the oem a/c sticker

I had a line on brand new sticker set for the radiator support..5,0 Stickers for a 2000 v8 explorer but turns out they won’t sell unless your a repair body shop. I’ll use My contacts and get some sooner than Later, now that I scratched these all up

Will Be cool to complete the conversion w v8 stickers

I have brand new driveline for the front… we will shorten this 3.25” Thursday of this week

List is short after that, replace glass fix a few things… all hinges on this 302 roaring to life

 

[JoshT]

And…

View attachment 461283

She has her zip tie / stick

View attachment 461284

View attachment 461285

Got her put all back together
I had a couple
Of battles along the way, the trans dipstick got bent somehow wand refused to seal / line up with its mounting bolt.. took me a bit I think I won

Custom trans mount and crossmember was done, better then the “old”’setup. Details to follow

First we need to hear her run
So… exhaust mount assembled, new trans mount and custom crossmember

Finally with trans dipstick sorted Time for intake, spacer, coil tower, wires, plumbing…



View attachment 461287

Alternator wired, power steering plumbed, vacuum,
Lines, hoses, and wiring prepped, routed and tied in place

View attachment 461288

View attachment 461289

Time for upper plenum

View attachment 461290

View attachment 461291

View attachment 461292

View attachment 461293

View attachment 461294

View attachment 461295

Look see what I found
A couple of the Taylor wires indeed were arcing on the headers. A constant battle! I added some factory tins this time around
Little trick I learned recently

View attachment 461296

View attachment 461297

View attachment 461298

View attachment 461299

View attachment 461300

View attachment 461301

View attachment 461302

View attachment 461303

Lucky I have some spare Taylor
Wires was able to add one and complete the set

View attachment 461304

View attachment 461305

So factory shields plus sleeves on the Taylor wires? Sounds like a good idea.

I initially used some SMPs I got on RockAuto closeout. Promptly burned one (#6 or 7 IIRC), but salvaged a good one from an old wire set. Then mildly burned #8. Wasn't terrible on #8 but enough that I would arc to header. Wrapped with F4 tape* and tucked away from the pipe. It's been good so far.

Purchased a set of Taylors to install before tuning. Since the Taylors only come with sleeves on 4 wires, l also got bought a set to add to the other 4, figuring I'd use the 4 left over on the 2.3 build when the time comes. Well, I can't seem to fit the sleeves over the Taylor boots to install them. I'd about have to pull the boots off the end install the sleeve, then reinstall the boot. I'm not certain that I want to attempt that.

I think I have enough of the OE shielded plug wires that I could do a full set of 8 shielded boots. Between the better insulation materials, the factory shields, and the sleeves, I don;t think there's be much chance at all of burning a wire.

* For those unfamiliar, F4 tape is a self fusing silicon tape. No adhesive, but it bonds to itself and creates a water tight seal. Also has a high electrical resistance so it works good for wrapping wires and connectors. Commonly used in Aviation for sealing electrical connectors and stuff. You can also find small rolls of it on the shelf at places like ACE as Rescue Tape for making energency repairs.

I had a line on brand new sticker set for the radiator support..5,0 Stickers for a 2000 v8 explorer but turns out they won’t sell unless your a repair body shop. I’ll use My contacts and get some sooner than Later, now.
Will
Be cool to complete the conversion w v8 stickers

Think you can order a few sets and sell me one or two? I was thinking the other day that I'd like to have the stickers matching the new drivetrain which was from a 2000 as well.


I'm sure you don't need to be told, but don't be like me. Make sure you get all your connectors plugged in good. After picking up my truck from exhaust shop on Saturday the shifting was very delayed. Thinking about it later that day I assumed that the problem could be the TPS. Well when looking for something else today I found the TPS plug resting on the header and partially melted. Still plugs in, but I'll be ordering a replacement here soon to swap in.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

same with the O2 sensor. i hate the fact it reads one bank only when you have no idea what the other is doing. i dont have a x pipe, and have the sensor in the stock spot.

 

[allmyEXes]

Looking good. What is the link to the sticker? I might can order some. What do they want? A copy of a shop business license?

 

[410Fortune]

I’ll dig up the link
They are nuts
First I had to send them pics of a v8 and the stock stickers
Then she confirmed they could make those
Then she refunded my money when they got
My mailing address and I’m not a body shop… I’m like man that would have been useful to know before all of this
I’m like they are just stickers? Am I breaking the law by ordering stickers for a v8? Odd

I now have contacts up here including some
Paint and body shops so I’m sure I can get some coming. It would be killer to have a source for these…
Either to complete conversions or just to restore

I’m having coffee then off to town for a battery!

 

[410Fortune]

She’s a runner

Couple of odds and ends being buttoned up
I will run her some more this evening

There is lifter noise I expect it to dissipate
Stay tuned

I’m messing with the Holley now I want to get oil pressure on the screen as well as put it back into learn mode

 

[vroomzoomboom]

you didnt prime it before you put the motor in?

 

[410Fortune]

That’s why the fuel pump relay was out silly
I built pressure w starter before attempt to start w fuel pump

Engine was plenty lubricated before initial start
I just went through these lifters so I expect them to pump up! I’m fitting the battery now
And will be doing some more test runs
She was running smoothly on all 8 but also on the old tune… I just wanted to hear it fire off.. the garage door was not even open it’s 22 today

 

[410Fortune]

Fitting a group 34 battery into 02-11 ranger battery tray

Vertical wall closest to the headlight needs to be folded down. After much messing around w various wrenches and hammers, the plumbers wrench made short work of it. Followed by sledge and rod to finish the flatness

Battery now sits flat but the factory wedge in place still leaves 1/2” of gap

So the rear wall of the battery tray was bent in and down to make up the gap.. 1/2”
Plus or minus. Now the battery is actually wedged when you tighten the bolt

Little larger the the puny factory unit without going too big.
Perfect for our v8 with many electrical gadgets

Now if that lifter doesn’t shut up I have a whole box of 16 new melling units here ready to go as needed…

 

[CDW6212R]

What size battery do those later models call for? All of my 10 Fords take the group 65 except for my two 1973's, which is the 24F. I like having the same size so most will swap as needed.

Drive that truck a bit, be lively with it, that lifter should calm down, or it won't then. Fingers crossed.

 

[410Fortune]

Exactly!
The factory battery is a group 59? tiny tiny
The older rangers had the larger battery, not sure when they changed. Stuffing a 65 in here is possible by folding down both battery tray lips…
But the 65 is soo large in there it rubs on abs pump and up against rad support with no room for the wires to route around… so I went with the 34.
Fits great!
I’m installing rear d shaft and finishing up a few things then I will be running her some more today stay tuned. I have a small list of things to fix including replacing door glass pass side….

 

[allmyEXes]

My '99 Ranger has the small battery tray.

 

[dvdswan]

I guess I really never thought of a "size" difference in batteries. I knew CCAs were different and that, but actual size I figured just car batteries, truck batteries, motorcycle batteries, etc.

So, I GTS Google Search

It stated this... a Group 59 battery is generally larger than a Group 34 battery. Went to the first link...

BCI Battery Group Size Chart

Group 34 Battery - 260 x 173 x 200 -- 10-1/4 x 6-13/16 x 7-7/8

Group 59 Battery - 255 x 193 x 196 -- 10-1/16 x 7-5/8 x 7-3/4


Group 34 batteries are medium-large but still rather powerful batteries, featuring 20h capacity in the 50-75 Ah range, providing 750-900 CCA, 100-145 minutes of Reserve Capacity, etc. Their weight depends on the chemistry, battery type, and internal construction, and it ranges between 37 and 51 pounds (16.8 - 23.1 kg).

A group 59 battery is a 12-volt car battery that is suitable for moderate climates. It has a cold cranking amps (CCA) rating of around 500–650 amps and a reserve capacity (RC) of around 90–120 minutes.

Again, I really never thought about batteries much per se. Always figured the CCAs the better. But reading what individuals say and wondering what, why, or how and then researching it opens one's eyes to a better understanding. I have a pretty good knowledge of mechanics and such but I certainly don't know everything or will claim that.

I guess my point is I love this thread for the wealth of knowledge, attention to detail, and all information that is posted by each of you.

 

[Josh P]

There's enough room for a group 31 battery.

 

[410Fortune]

lol my
Local store only has a few options hahaha otherwise I have to spend waaaaay too much or drive 60 miles to Costco lol

So the lifters still noisy

Have run the engine for about 15 minutes total
She’s running well but not perfect due to lifters
Holley is happy engine sounds healthy of course
So I’m going to fix it right now
So this is happening now
Shouldn’t take but half the day
Will report back

 

[dvdswan]

GRRRRR. Still no like button. Did you soak the other lifters?

 

[410Fortune]

I always soak them yes
I also store any old lifters in oil
I inspected them on the bench
This is only my second time actually taking lifters apart and bench inspecting / cleaning. Apparently two or three of them not happy. So I’m just replacing the whole valvetrain
Please send money

Battle on

 

[410Fortune]

Okay so I found separated Lifters, two of them.
The little cup that holds the check ball and spring was on the wrong side of the “shuttle” I think these parts just worn out from me messing with them on the bench.
I needed to learn how to disassemble and clean lifters… well they were clean! But two of them separated

Live and learn

I feel good about this repair because I can see the problem.
All the old stuff went bye bye

16ea New motorcraft lifters
New melling pushrods and rocker arms, pedestals

Pushrods stock length, I confirmed the length of the new ones

I just primed the oil pump with fresh oil have to install valve covers and intakes then we will finally (I am confident) have a proper running 5.0 and we can tune

Old lifters 152k miles and bench cleaned, ran for 15 min , noisy, removed and found the issue

Parts table is back with parts on it again

Out with the old

Bad news, this little ball and spring are supposed to be retained in the bottom of the shuttle

So… off to the metal yard with the old valvetrain
In with the new

Now you guys there is so much wrong info out there in 5.0 land. These are pedestal
Mount rockers, there is no such thing as bring them to zero lash then torque down, how many turns it takes… that is not how you torque these that is not how you check pushrod length. That info is for the stud mount rocker arms

These pedestal mounts are simple. You tighten the bolt the pedestal is now bolted to the head… there is no adjustment
The only way to adjust things is to add shims or remove material from pedestal… and even then you really should be getting different pushrods

For me stock length pushrods stock rocker arms.
Simply torque the pedestals to 24 ft lbs and you are done. You don’t have to turn the engine over it does not have to be at tdc… none of that applies here
The 24 ft lbs is simply to keep you from over tightening and stripping heads/ bolts

Now when intake was removed some water went into crankcase
So old oil drained, new oil added and now the oil pump is primed with drill
Counterclockwise
Watch the oil pump up lifters and come out all pushrods

Camshaft synchronizer was removed from engine so can access oil pump drive shaft
I removed the sensor from the synchro body and marked the location of the flag so I can re install on same cam gear tooth

All new parts were soaked in oil before install
New ford lifters slightly different shape then the originals from 2000
I like to install lifters with the oil hole pointed towards valley, although it really does not matter

How many times do we have to see valvetrain re done in one truck? Hopefully this is it!!!

 

[410Fortune]

First startup with new valvetrain and finally properly running refreshed engine

What a relief!!!
Now for fine tuning