5.0 engine problems | Page 7 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

5.0 engine problems

So, in theory…could a sensor with a fault that produces an out of limits voltage affect the signal sent by another sensor?
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





maybe? Not something I have ever seen
 












". You might want to consider that a 5.0 with 250,000 mile might have a worn out timing set (chain and or sprockets) and jumped timing (and possibly bent a valve). This could explain all your symptoms"
OR have tried replacing your coil...?
 






". You might want to consider that a 5.0 with 250,000 mile might have a worn out timing set (chain and or sprockets) and jumped timing (and possibly bent a valve). This could explain all your symptoms"
OR have tried replacing your coil...?
Have replaced coils, chain and sprocket may have some wear but has not jumped time
 






If the code keeps coming back pointing to the cam sensor p0340

Have you removed the cam sensor and synchronizer body yet?
The codes point to a bad cam sensor

If the cam sensor checks out and the wiring between them checks out and the synchronizer was indeed setup on the correct cam tooth with the engine at TDC cyl1 on compression stroke, then it maybe a bad PCM!!

Of course a compression test might be a good idea, also have a look at all 8 spark plugs
 






If the code keeps coming back pointing to the cam sensor p0340

Have you removed the cam sensor and synchronizer body yet?
The codes point to a bad cam sensor

If the cam sensor checks out and the wiring between them checks out and the synchronizer was indeed setup on the correct cam tooth with the engine at TDC cyl1 on compression stroke, then it maybe a bad PCM!!

Of course a compression test might be a good idea, also have a look at all 8 spark plugs
The code is p0320 and I have changed the pcm
 






This is an interesting code on a 5.0 explorer
It Points to an issue with the crankshaft position sensor
Sorry I kept referring to the camshaft pos sensor
A quick google search for explorer p0320 brings up a few threads

Have you inspected the crank pos sensor? And the crank damper? Wiring to the sensor?

The computer is telling us where to look, that is the good news
 






This is an interesting code on a 5.0 explorer
It Points to an issue with the crankshaft position sensor
Sorry I kept referring to the camshaft pos sensor
A quick google search for explorer p0320 brings up a few threads

Have you inspected the crank pos sensor? And the crank damper? Wiring to the sensor?

The computer is telling us where to look, that is the good news
Well I have replaced the sensor as for the wiring no I haven't because it is shielded.
 






What about the crank damper? Any evidence that there is contact?

Just because the wires are shielded does not mean you cannot check the condition of the loom, routing, the condition of the pins and connector and do a continuity test from sensor to the pcm
The shielding can be reset if you need to trim it to get a look see
 






What about the crank damper? Any evidence that there is contact?

Just because the wires are shielded does not mean you cannot check the condition of the loom, routing, the condition of the pins and connector and do a continuity test from sensor to the pcm
The shielding can be reset if you need to trim it to get a look see
I have not done a continuity test on that I will give that a try.but if say there is a problem with the wire how would you go about repairing it?
 






/\ If damage found, I would run new pair of wires from sensor inside 1/4" plastic flex conduit zip tied on outside path/harness of originals and then butt-splice onto last 2 inches of originals just before they go into amphenol connector/ PCM.
 
























cut the shielding!! inside it is just two wires. I usually cut open with razor blade, then I can always wrap them right back up
the way they route down along the timing cover in between the coolant sensors, etc it can get tight. Anyone in there doing a belt, water pump, etc etc could easily pull to taught or chafe or what have you over the years........
The pcm is the best tool we mechanics have
it tells us where to look

Problems with the 5.0 and a crank sensor usually result in a no start, or a cutting out issue like you are having....... alot of times it happens when there is moisture (puddles, rain, slush), the crank sensor is exposed to road salts, grime, oil, coolant, other fluids that leak on higher mile 5 oh
The crank damper has also been known to break out the center rubber donut, they can fail in time and allow a wobble or slippage
So a good inspection of the crank sensor, the wiring, connectors, the crank sensor mount, damper (Balancer) all of it!
Hopefully something jumps out at as the issue
Also I will only use a FORD crank sensor, I would rather put a known good junk yard part then an aftermarket cheapo POS!!!!
 






Ok guys I finally got it all fixed it and I no doubt spent way to much time and money on this thing but I have learned a lot also turns out all the spark plugs were the original that came with it except #1 witch was fine I don't no how it was even running.
 






So the plugs alone were the main issue...?
 






No there was other problems in the beginning all of them just created one nightmare
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





It has only took me a little over 4 months to get it
 






Back
Top