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5.0 making concerning noises

5.0 do not have injector seats they sit directly into the lower intake yeah!!
 



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Would an injector issue cause a loud tap almost as something is clanking. But then completely goes away and stops missing after one minute and no more issues till next cold start? I would think an injector issue would stay or a least be intermittent, not just on cold start?
 






Would an injector issue cause a loud tap almost as something is clanking. But then completely goes away and stops missing after one minute and no more issues till next cold start? I would think an injector issue would stay or a least be intermittent, not just on cold Start?
 






On my Sport Trac 4.0L SOHC I'd get a CEL, rough idle and a #4 cyl misfire code on every cold start. W/in 30 seconds the rough idle would go away and if I cleared the CEL it would not come back on until the next cold start. I'm pretty sure that was caused by a bad fuel injector or bad FI seals.

As far as the ticking/clacking noise only when cold... that honestly sounds more like an exhaust leak to me. I've experienced this on multiple vehicles. As soon as the engine gets hot the noise can often go away.
 
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@koda2000 your building the transmission to?
If so will you include it in your thread?
Also I have found a great video from a transmission builder that shows a full rebuild if you are interested
 






@koda2000 your building the transmission to?
If so will you include it in your thread?

@donalds - I think I'll be paying for an auto trans rebuild/rebuilt trans as I've never worked on an auto transmission. With all the work/$ that will be going into the engine I can't see reusing the old trans as is, which while currently working okay, except for slipping in reverse on steep inclines, has black fluid (even after having replaced 1/2 of it) and it's a 5r55e with over 200,000 abused, neglected miles on it. I'd hate to get my truck back on the road only to have the trans go after just a few thousand miles. I figure I might as while pull the trans now while the engine is out.
 






I have a 5R55E that I got from a salvage yard and rebuilt it myself with all new seals, gaskets, clutches, solenoids, hard parts, and servos all for about $900.00. When the trans in my X craps out, the re-manufactured will go in it's place.and I will rebuild the old one. I just don't trust shops anymore.
 






Transmission shops basically don't ever do upgrades to the VB, or use virtually any upgrade part available. That is, they stick to rebuilding to stock conditions with their brand of rebuild parts.

Sonnax makes a ton of upgrade parts, plus many that are oversized to restore worn VB's. The oversized parts are not worth the trouble, because the tools cost is usually $300+ for one task. They also make a few other upgrade parts, for common or popular transmissions.

The 4R70W trans comes under that group, they make a ton of upgrade parts for the 4R, most for the VB, but lately some new large internal parts. I'm about to do the VC servicing in my white 98, I have all of those little Sonnax pieces/kits, and somewhere notes I made for the Jerry's Mod.

So a shop would never install any Sonnax parts, though many of them can save most used transmissions, lengthen their lives for much longer. Those same parts also remain in the VB after a future rebuild, so the costs are not lost, or duplicated.

If you ever get into a 4R valve body, replace(upgrade) the PR boost valve(the circuit). The pressure regulator is a wear item, and their are higher pressure valves and springs. Do not buy those(Sonnax started with those and still sells them). They came out a couple years ago, with a kit called a line boost kit. It progressively raises pressures at higher throttle, not idle or cruising. So get their replacement PR valve, and the line boost kit. Both are available from Rock Auto, for about $17 for one, and around $61 for the LB kit. I got their 4R70W Zip kit, which has everything you might want, minus the LB kit(did not exist when they created the Zip kit). Amazon has that for about $108 now.
 






Transmission shops basically don't ever do upgrades to the VB, or use virtually any upgrade part available. That is, they stick to rebuilding to stock conditions with their brand of rebuild parts.

Sonnax makes a ton of upgrade parts, plus many that are oversized to restore worn VB's. The oversized parts are not worth the trouble, because the tools cost is usually $300+ for one task. They also make a few other upgrade parts, for common or popular transmissions.

The 4R70W trans comes under that group, they make a ton of upgrade parts for the 4R, most for the VB, but lately some new large internal parts. I'm about to do the VC servicing in my white 98, I have all of those little Sonnax pieces/kits, and somewhere notes I made for the Jerry's Mod.

So a shop would never install any Sonnax parts, though many of them can save most used transmissions, lengthen their lives for much longer. Those same parts also remain in the VB after a future rebuild, so the costs are not lost, or duplicated.

If you ever get into a 4R valve body, replace(upgrade) the PR boost valve(the circuit). The pressure regulator is a wear item, and their are higher pressure valves and springs. Do not buy those(Sonnax started with those and still sells them). They came out a couple years ago, with a kit called a line boost kit. It progressively raises pressures at higher throttle, not idle or cruising. So get their replacement PR valve, and the line boost kit. Both are available from Rock Auto, for about $17 for one, and around $61 for the LB kit. I got their 4R70W Zip kit, which has everything you might want, minus the LB kit(did not exist when they created the Zip kit). Amazon has that for about $108 now.
Your correct I had to do research and request upgrades knowing I was putting a new engine and blower on the x all in the end parts and labor was like $2500 worth it to:)
 






Update, poured some seafoam in crank case and took er for a 50-60 mile highway trip cruising to go shopping going 70-80 on interstate. Ran perfect after 1 1/2 mins of tapping on start up, and i have to say, seemed like the tap got a little quieter after i had poured that stuff in, or maybe its just me lol. I plan to change oil to 5w30 synthetic instead of Reg, and maybe go ahead and go a quart of marvel mystery. My grandfather said something about "slick50" anyone know anything bout that?

Side note: Had a scare with my other car today too, my 03 grand am with "a lota miles" was missing in every cylinder this morning, running like garbage. I had got a little gas at some local station the night earlier, apparently i got bad gas, cause i went to the station i normally go to and filled it and it was fine. Thought for a moment head gasket cause the 3.4's in them have had issues with that, and i had a tad of white stuff on oil cap. Must have been moisture, i wiped it off and drove quite a bit more and no more white. 2 cars in the same week wouldn't have been fun.
 






Slick50 was a thing maybe 10 years ago. Haven't heard anything about it lately. I'd stick with the Seafoam or Marvel as a cleaning agent. I'd suggest using the cheapest oil you can find (4 qts) and 1 qt of Marvel. Run it for 50-100 miles then drain it and refill with 5 qts of your oil of choice and I'd go with 10W30 weight unless you live where it's really cold during the winter.
 






Ditto, I use 10-30 or the least expensive synthetic that Amazon carries in the thickest viscosity. I have a Castrol 0-40 here now that was only about $21 last month. Their monthly subscription products can save quite a bit on items you need normally.

I push items off when the prices jump or change right before my monthly order date, or double up when the prices drop a lot. That's how I've been averaging under $22 for five quarts since last year. My black 98 eats oil fast, so I've needed to change it a lot lately, topping it off weekly etc. There was a Castrol synthetic recently that was about $16.80, I got one to try out. It seems as good as typical synthetics I like(Castrol, Valvoline, Pennzoil, and OEM Amsoil(under $6 a bottle)).
 






if the noise is lessened by adding detergents to the crank case then what is happening is you are breaking down carbon deposits that are causing an oil delivery issue to the valve train.
If this is truly the case then I would plan a series of oil changes not just one....using detergents to treat the engine and try to free and break up some of the carbon so it can be trapped by the oil filter or suspended in the fluid and drained out.
A mechanical oil pressure gauge is a good idea here so you can see the health of your oil pump
Usually a 5.0 that does this is experiencing low oil pressure due to blockage of carbon on the oil pickup tube or in the return passages.... My guess is at cold idle when the "tick" occurs you are running at 0-10 psi of oil pressure on a mechanical gauge = yikes!!

Marvel mystery oil, Seafoam, ATF, and Diesel oil are all filled with detergents that will help break up carbon.
After the "treatments" if oil pressure is restored consider using mobil one full synth as your engine oil in this rig it will continue to break up carbon and clean things up
 






Started for the first time since i drove it last, noise is louder, and 2 minutes and still didn't go away so i shut it down, seafoam has no effects. Guess need to check oil pressure, dont know what else to try. I want to try everything i can before having to pull valve cover and do that mess.
 












UPDATE: Well changed the oil to 5w30 conventional again with a quart or marvel mystery in. The oil that came out had a bit of seafoam i put in a drove 50-60 miles. Some nasty sludge came out at the end of the oil trail. Started it up on the new oil and ticking was very loud and stayed much longer then it did last time, at least 5 minutes, before completely disappearing like last time. Took it Christmas shopping, Drove it probably 70-80 miles, started it warm many many times not peep from the motor except for once when it sat a bit longer and was semi-cold. Just a light tick for about 30 seconds then went away. I ran the thing very hard, WOT several times, trying to get that oil to circulate and clean it out, must be plenty of sludge seeing what came out the first time from 5oz of seafoam. Have yet to start her after beating er the other night. If i didn't mention this before when it stops ticking, i have full power and it runs like nothing was ever wrong.
 






check oil pressure with a manual gauge
If its a low oil pressure issue it can be a valvetrain tick like a lifter not pumping up fully allowing the pushrod to bounce between rocker arm and lifter or it can be a bad rod bearing on the crank
or piston bearing at top of the rod.........I would want to know my oil pressure
 






Does the check engine light turn on with key and turn off when engine is running? Surely there is a code for the rough running--( misfire)
 



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Wish i could upload a video of the sound, sounds really bad loud, then fades to a tick and a then a light tick and then to no tick at all
 






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