Completed Project - 5.0 swap - w/ 4406 | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Completed Project 5.0 swap - w/ 4406

Use this prefix for completed projects that are not "How to" articles or threads asking for help.
vroomzoomboom said:
is that a sport tank you have?

what linkage, for the t case? the stock one will work, and the case will slid into your sport. you will just have to modify the tank support like all the 4 door guys do with a stock tank.

Yeah I'm having a hard time finding good shift linkage around here. I am running a manual shift case so I shouldn't have the issue with the shift motor to tank clearance right? I have searched the forum over and couldn't find anyone who had done the 4406 in a 2 door! After seeing your pics I know it will fit!
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





The 4406 should fit in. A 2dr rust be tight around the gas tank for sure
As for your manual lineage I grabbed the shifter and boot the bracket that bolts directly to the 4r70 and the lineage piece that goes back to the tcase all from an auto 4.6 f150 ford truck. I would like to think that the 4.2 would work but I don't think the v6 f150 came 4wd
It was a bit of a bugger fitting the shifter in and tightening the bolts ( good thing I chased the threads with a metric tap) make sure you cut enou of thetunnell out for you to hit the gate for neutral and 4low
 






Yeah it's a sport tank. V8boatbuilder and a couple others did write ups on how to install the electric 4406.

Looking good I'm about to gut all my hard work from my converted. 96 and swap it into a 98. Without having the motor in there it's gonna be hard to tell if you beat the floor enough for the transfer case. I had to modify the v6 transmission mount to work with the 4r to get mine in because I did not beat the floor enough

Lineage is easy get the parts from a auto 4x4 ford truck 4.6 liter they are a dime a dozen

Il be interested in hearing how your gem will control the new electric tcase
Tell me one thing though is your selector 2-4auto -4low or is it Auto-4 hi-4low

Mine is the 2wd 4auto and 4low. Both t cases use the same shift motor and use the same positions for 2 and 4low. The only thing the exlporer Gem can't access is the mechanical lock in 4x4 high.. it uses the electric clutch to engage the 4x4 high.
 






Ok I need advice. It's time to order my exhaust parts so I'm not waiting on them once the engine is in and I need some input. Since I don't have emission testing in my area I'm planning on running a cat-less custom system. It's going to be dual 2.5" off the headers into dual electric dumps (for when I'm really showing off or at the strip) and then going into a dual 2.5" in and single 3" out Magnaflow. Which Magnaflow length would you suggest? 3 are 5"X8" oval coming in 14", 18", and 24". There is also 1 I found that is 5"X11" oval by 22" long.. Recommendations between these 4? Take into account that I won't have cats on it.
 






I'm running the factory non California manga flow drop/cat assembly no secondaries full on 2" exhaust to 3" with 18" bottles no h x or y pipe
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zSzHUWqXbIc
I think it sounds good but it's not as obnoxious as I had hoped and it has way more power then when I had it dump right below the passenger seat.
IMHO you'll need at least the primary cats to create enough back pressure. The bottles were all the exhaust shop could tuck in along side the behemoth transfer case and not have them hang down too far, although I wish I had gone with 2-1/2" I am happy with the 2" .
Good luck exhaust truly is in the eye of the beholder ultimately. Just trying to get that right growl that you like can be tricky bearing in mind these are small blocks
 






Thanks for the input. I'm putting a supercharger on it and having it all custom tuned so I think I'll be ok with the back pressure thing. I'm just curious as to how much difference in sound there will be between the different length Magnaflows.
 






Sound will all be different between different configs. Even same config with a different bend will sound different.


What supercharger you putting on? And what are you doing about tuning hopefully you can get rid of the 2nd o2 sensors after where the primary cats would normally go
 






I'm used the Eaton M90 supercharger that came with the Explorer Express 5.0 kit for now. I can always step it up later. I'm planning on having James at Henson Performance tune it and he said he would shut off the second O2 sensors.
 












I got it used from dasfinc on here. He said it only has 3,000 miles on it and it does look farely new. There was only mild carbon/ oilly build up in the intake area.
 






Trying to plan ahead here. What would be a good set of plug wires to get for this engine? 347 with a supercharger @ 8.3:1 compression.. It should be pushing close to 500hp. I was told to get either Autolite 3924 or 3923 plugs. I got that from the ARF heads quick set-up instructions that came with my heads.

Any ideas on wires without spending $200!?
 






Trying to plan ahead here. What would be a good set of plug wires to get for this engine? 347 with a supercharger @ 8.3:1 compression.. It should be pushing close to 500hp. I was told to get either Autolite 3924 or 3923 plugs. I got that from the ARF heads quick set-up instructions that came with my heads.

Any ideas on wires without spending $200!?

I have had a few sets of Aurora ignition wires over the years and put a new set on my 347 without issue. I know Celly (another member on here) runs these on his 302. They have two different sets for V8 explorers and you can get them in red or black color. Listed at $92.95 and $156.95 per set. I'm pretty sure the $92.95 set is the one. Very good quality and the price isn't bad either.

l_95320.jpg
 






Ok awesome! I'm assuming these work good with the TM Headers too then?

Also I was looking farther down on that page that list the different Ford Explorer wire sets and they make a set for 96, 97 (until 2/97), and yet another set for 97 (3/97 up). Then of coarse they make a set for 98-01 which is what you have I'm assuming. What the heck is the difference in them?
 






Yes they work good with the TM headers. Sorry I didn't scroll down further on the page. I do have a set for the 1996 model year. Not sure what the differences are but again they worked great with my TM headers. some guys use the socks on the spark plug boots where necessary. My TM headers were made with the windsor style exhaust port heads rather the the stock GT40 head exhaust flange. so not sure if there are differences there on your application. Again go with the set for your engine year and get some boots and you should be good to go.
 






Ok sounds good. Thanks!

Since you mentioned that you have a special set of TM Headers made I have another question. I called Bob but he hasn't returned my call yet. I order the basic 96 style headers with the 2 3/8" collectors long before my engine was built so that I wouldn't have to wait on them. Well now that I have the engine built it seems like the 1 1/2" primary tubes are too small. I was told that 1 5/8" or 1 3/4" would be better. Do you know if it is possible to get bigger primary's to fit in there? Also, how much bigger are the windsor style ports?

I have AFR 185 heads..
 






I just installed a set of BWD Select wires on mine because I had a burnt boot on the old wires. They are much nicer than the other brand which were just a set I picked up from Autozone and don't remember what make they were. These BWD were new in the box in the donor truck I used for the V8 swap but O'Reilly's carries them. The longest wire only had a little over 1,000 ohms which is decent. The same length wire on the old set had over 14,000 ohms and even the shortest one had over 6,000.

Also, I run the Autolite 9324 in the AFR 165 heads on my Cobra and they work well.
 






Ok sounds good. Thanks!

Since you mentioned that you have a special set of TM Headers made I have another question. I called Bob but he hasn't returned my call yet. I order the basic 96 style headers with the 2 3/8" collectors long before my engine was built so that I wouldn't have to wait on them. Well now that I have the engine built it seems like the 1 1/2 primary tubes are too small. I was told that 1 5/8" or 1 3/4" would be better. Do you know if it is possible to get bigger primary's to fit in there? Also, how much bigger is the windsor style ports?

I have AFR 185 heads..

No sure if a bigger primary would fit. I know even with the TMH there could be more flow with a 347. Not sure if the windsor ports are bigger or not. I spec'd the headers after I knew that I was using Trick Flow heads. Hopefully Bob gets back to before he builds them and can make any needed changes.
 






I just installed a set of BWD Select wires on mine because I had a burnt boot on the old wires. They are much nicer than the other brand which were just a set I picked up from Autozone and don't remember what make they were. These BWD were new in the box in the donor truck I used for the V8 swap but O'Reilly's carries them. The longest wire only had a little over 1,000 ohms which is decent. The same length wire on the old set had over 14,000 ohms and even the shortest one had over 6,000.

Also, I run the Autolite 9324 in the AFR 165 heads on my Cobra and they work well.

Thanks. I know that MSD makes a good set of wires too but I like the way Aurora wires look especially because they are so accomodating with different applications.

Thanks for the info on the plugs! I'll pick up a set of those tonight.

I'm asking about the headers as kind of an after the fact matter. I already have a set but I'm trying to decide if I need to have another set made or if it's even possible. I'll post back once he calls back (hopefully this weekend!). Thanks guys.
 






I've always had good luck with Taylor wires on my Chevelle and Cobra but then you would have to do something about the boots and connectors for the coil packs and that can get expensive. That's why I suggested the BDW wires. Just check the resistance of whatever wire you go with to make sure it's not too high.

Some more info about my Cobra for a little clarity on the plug choice. It has a 302 with 9:1 compression, a Vortech S-trim making 11-12 psi without an aftercooler it put down a little over 430rwhp 91 pump. On VP100 it put down 471rwhp. So with your blower and engine combo either the 23 or 24 should work well.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Just a little teaser update since I'm at work and can't work on my truck. I got my Aurora wires on saturday which look really nice. I haven't taken the time to check the resistance yet. Where is a good place to get some heat insulating socks to put over these so the headers don't melt them?

Another note is, I finally got my engine back from the engine builders!!! I spent Saturday and Sunday mocking it up and installed the Torque Monster headers, which needed some modifying to fit with the new AFR heads. Clearances were too close/ non-exsistant between the headers and the heads.

I'll get some pictures posted as soon as I have the means and time to do it! I'm so excited!

I have it all ready to go in the truck tonight as long as I can get someone to help me guide it in.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top