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5R55E shift saga

Will remove the valve body

And the solenoid bracket being bent or broken is not unusual...In fact it is common...You can replace the bracket for little cost...

But please replace the seperator plate with the gaskets...Just retorquing them will break the gaskets and they will not seal...I know its a PITA to remove the vb just to replace the plate and gaskets but my previous attempt to retighten the vb bolts made matters worse...

Thanks for the advice. TSB 03-22-10, which applies to updating the separator plate applies to:

1995-2001 EXPLORER
2000-2002 EXPLORER SPORT
2001-2002 EXPLORER SPORT TRAC
1997-2001 MOUNTAINEER
1995-2002 RANGER
1996-1997 AEROSTAR

However, apparently the kit does not include a bonded separator plate for all models.

I have decided that loose valve body bolts increase the probability of separator plate gasket blow out so I will proceed with removing the valve body and installing the appropriate TSB kit. I hope that mine includes the bonded separator plate.
 



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Thanks for the information

You are incorrect in your statement that the 1st/reverse band cannot be adjusted. By using different length rods you can adjust the apply distance using the Ford tool to find the right length rod.

Thanks for providing that information. Where is the procedure for adjusting the 1st/reverse band documented?
 






Adjustments of low/reverse servo length...

That would be accomplished with one of 3 servos with different length center pins...The problem is that Ford and aftermarket to my knowledge only offer one length servo...

I have never seen the various servos so I do not know what the length difference would be...But frankly if you don't have a problem related to 1st, 2nd, or 5th I wouldn't change the servo...Of course if the end ofthe servo pin is broken or chipped that is a different story...Replacement of the o-rings on the low/reverse servo is all I would recommend if the servo pin is in good shape and the gears mentioned are working fine...

I like your plan to swap drivetrains...Personally I bought my 99 X to swap in the v8 from my Ranger...But the more I look at the 2011 engines in the Mustangs the more I am leaning toward the 412 hp 5.0 DOHC/6R60 tranny in the 99...My 7 liter puts out that kind of power but it is no where close to the efficiency of the newer engine...Maybe I can adapt the 6 speed to the ohv V8...HMMMMM...
 






I haven't noticed reverse being slow to engage but I agree that with 150,000 miles and probably little or no past maintenance installing the new rings is a good idea. The servo rings and gasket cost less than $5 plus shipping. Does the flat side of the D ring contact the cylinder or the piston? If the cylinder, is it hard to keep it in position prior to inserting the piston?

I believe the flat side of the D ring faces the piston. The servo on re-install must use the bolts to push the cover and piston up into its bore. Sounds a bit like the wrong way to do things, but it worked for me two times. I re-used my old gasket as I was told by others that it was not critical to replace it.

The metal bracket holding the solenoids is an upgraded part and made of harder steel.

I was able to install a home made drain plug from some brass fittings in my tool box. I brazed the fitting into the steel pan from the inside. Worked very well, and might cost $2 from a plumbing store. Does not hang down or leak the the B&M drain plug kit

044.jpg


Spread a plastic sheet down to protect your floor when you remove the valve body. You will get an ATF drip shower for a good 24 hours
 






Part numbers and prices from 2006 when I repaired mine

XL2Z 7G383 AA EPC solenoid $107.49 US
XL2Z 7L491 AA Plate $5.57 US
1L5Z 7Z490 HA Plate - CO $14.51 US
3L5Z 7M203 JA Valve ASY Kit $13.05 US

Yours should take the same part numbers as we have the same year. The $14.51 plate was a bonded separator plate

These were not list prices, but net prices form Bob Utter Ford Texas..
 






D ring set & manual

I believe the flat side of the D ring faces the piston. The servo on re-install must use the bolts to push the cover and piston up into its bore. Sounds a bit like the wrong way to do things, but it worked for me two times. I re-used my old gasket as I was told by others that it was not critical to replace it.

The metal bracket holding the solenoids is an upgraded part and made of harder steel. . . . Spread a plastic sheet down to protect your floor when you remove the valve body. You will get an ATF drip shower for a good 24 hours

Thanks for the info on the D ring - sounds reasonable. I ordered the D ring set, gasket and ATSG 5R55E Transmission repair manual 1998-on from Transmission Parts USA this morning.

I loosened all of the valve body retaining bolts and then removed all but a few bolts to drop the valve body about 1/8 inch. Hopefully, most of the ATF will have leaked out by tomorrow. The plastic sheet is a good idea.

The TCC solenoid acts like it will pop out of its bore when I remove the bolt that holds it since the bracket is broken. I may try to tie it in place before removing the valve body.
 






Thanks for PNs

Part numbers and prices from 2006 when I repaired mine

XL2Z 7G383 AA EPC solenoid $107.49 US
XL2Z 7L491 AA Plate $5.57 US
1L5Z 7Z490 HA Plate - CO $14.51 US
3L5Z 7M203 JA Valve ASY Kit $13.05 US

Yours should take the same part numbers as we have the same year. The $14.51 plate was a bonded separator plate

These were not list prices, but net prices form Bob Utter Ford Texas..

XL2Z7G383AA was superseded by 9L2Z7G383A
Do you think I should replace the EPC solenoid just because of its age and probable wear? Are any special tools required to replace it?
 






Since you are in there I would replace the EPC solenoid and the solenoid bracket as well...Or did you replace the bracket and I just miss that???
 






XL2Z7G383AA was superseded by 9L2Z7G383A
Do you think I should replace the EPC solenoid just because of its age and probable wear? Are any special tools required to replace it?

Honestly, I would wait until you pull the VB to see what your dealing with. I bought a new Ford (bosch) EPC, had in for for 2K miles, then took part in the BW EPC test, and had their unit in for 7K then they sent me a production BW EPC to replace the prototype. I now have my OEM Ford and my replacement Ford EPC units sitting on the shelf. I am using the Borg Warner EPC and it is working well. Not sure what they sell for new, but it looks like the Ford part has come down in price. No special tools are needed to change it,it just pulls out. O-rings may need changeing, I re-used mine IIRC.

Since you are swapping out power trains, I would leave the EPC alone unless you have unresolved issues. I could send you one of mine as a test unit if you need one...

It (EPC) just pulls out if you want to look at it. You should inspect it as there is a fine screen on the tip that may be plugged or partiallly blocked.
 






Transmission filter

Yesterday while I was waiting for the ATF to drain from the transmission I started tearing apart the pan filter. One side is metal and the other side is plastic. I decided it would be easier to break the plastic than cut the metal. The photo below shows the filter after most of the plastic has been removed.
TFltr2.jpg

In other posts I expressed my opinion that changing the filter every 30,000 miles may be unnecessary because I doubted the effectiveness of the filter. After examining the filter material I have changed my mind. It is a dense, thick, strong material of substantial area that could eventually clog if not replaced after 50,000 to 75,000 miles. I still believe that an external full flow engine oil type filter (such as Mobil 1-301) will extend the life of the transmission by trapping very small particles that the internal filter won't. I'm not optimistic about finding the rest of my broken solenoid bracket trapped in the filter.
 






Gasket blown out

I used the valve body torque sequence chart (Post #123) in the 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary to make a bolt holder out of a Cheerios box as shown below.
Holder.jpg

I placed a weight in the box so it would sit upright when under the vehicle to accept the bolts as I removed them. I loosened the bolts in a reverse tightening sequence. I included the reverse servo bolts in the loosening sequence. After all of the bolts were loose I completely removed the reverse servo since it was loose enough that it would have fallen out.

bluestream1's prediction of a blown out separator plate gasket was correct. The photo below shows the gasket blown out in the area of the reverse servo.
Seprtr1.jpg


The gasket was also blown out near one of the shift solenoids (SSB).
Seprtr2.jpg


Below is the whole separator plate from a different angle.
Seprtr3.jpg

The TCC solenoid is extended because the solenoid bracket is broken and the bolt that holds the solenoid tab has been removed.

According to Tousley Ford the only applicable TSB for my valve body is TSB 03-22-10 (with no later PNs) and there are no later PNs to the updated solenoid bracket and valve body separator. Monday I will order these and a new filter and pan gasket.

Does anyone know the Ford PN for the filter and pan gasket?
 












Glad the problem was the blown gasket. I hate to think of how many unsuspecting persons have been sold an expensive re-built transmission, or ended up junking their truck because of that blown gasket.

The pan gasket part number is F5TZ 7A191A and the filter is FT134 These parts are expensive compared to what you would pay from Trans Parts USA. The Ford gasket is re-usable, and the Trans parts USA gasket is not, but it also costs 90% less. The Trans Parts USA filter is good IMO, it is a fiberglass type of paper that does the filtering and only costs $4-6 IIRC. I believe the Ford filter is made by Fram and uses their Microfelt media.

Also, that broken piece of steel was likely removed by someone at some point when a transmission service was done on the truck. There's really no place for it to go other that the bottom of the pan.
 






Searching for pieces

Being concerned about the pieces of blown out gasket and broken solenoid bracket I made a sieve using an old undershirt and a funnel to filter all of the ATF from the transmission pan and the catch pan. I found no visible particles. Next I crawled under the vehicle with a light and visually inspected each of the exposed oil paths shown below.
OilPaths.jpg


I found the piece of gasket shown below in one of the paths and removed it.
GsktPc.jpg


Still searching I cut open the felt "sock" in the old transmission filter as shown below.
Filter1.jpg

The red arrow identifies the broken off piece of solenoid bracket. The blue arrows identify the multiple pieces of blown out gasket that were missing. The gold arrows identify the larger fragments of what appears to be brass. All of the speckles in the upper and lower sections of the filter are brass particles which concerns me. There is a magnetic strip in the pan to catch steel particles as if they are expected. Would anyone like to guess where the brass came from?

I am impressed with the OEM filter and went to Advance Auto and AutoZone to see if I could purchase something comparable. Both stores had similar products that are inferior to the Ford filter and gasket. The gasket was folded up that would make installation difficult and sealing questionable with no metal inserts to prevent crushing. The filter appeared to be of foam like material. I will purchase a transmission filter kit from Ford.
 






According to Tousley Ford the only applicable TSB for my valve body is TSB 03-22-10 (with no later PNs) and there are no later PNs to the updated solenoid bracket and valve body separator. Monday I will order these and a new filter and pan gasket.

Does anyone know the Ford PN for the filter and pan gasket?

The revised solenoid bracket p/n is XL2Z7L491AA...The Ford pan gasket and gasket p/n I didn't find but I got both from fastparts network...The bracket is less than 8 bucks and the filter/gasket were around $30...

I also bought a filter and gasket from advance auto and except for the lack of the little pucks in the gasket they were identical except for the lack of the Ford part numbers on them...

BTW, I torqued all the vb bolts down to 97 inch/lbs when reinstalling them...
 






If it is bright in color, it's probably bushing material, could also be clutch material.
 






Reverse servo spring?

The photo below from another thread shows an A4LD reverse servo with a large spiral spring.
A4LDRvSpr.jpg


When I was removing my reverse servo I dropped it into the catch pan. There was no spring in the catch pan when I drained it. Does the 5R55E reverse servo have a large spiral spring? If so, it must have sprung away when I wasn't looking.

Edit: Never mind. BrooklynBay answered the same question in the 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary: Post # 573
"The 5R55E doesn't have a spring."
 






Solenoid resistance

The measured resistance of my solenoids are within the specified tolerances.

EPC: 3.1 to 5.7 ohms, actual = 4.7
TCC: 8.9 to 16 ohms, actual = 10.1
SSx: 22 to 48 ohms, actual = 25.2 to 25.4

I'm feeling more comfortable about not replacing any solenoids.
 






Brass sources

In reviewing the A4LD transmission rebuild diary there are photos of several potential sources of the brass particles I found in my filter.

Pump bushing:
PumpBush.jpg


Reverse drum:
ReverseDrum.jpg


Thrust washer:
ThrustWasher1.jpg


Forward ring gear bushing:
Bushing.jpg


After seeing how badly scored some of the parts in the A4LD were I'm not very concerned about the small particles I found in my filter.
 



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Don't forget this was from a failed AL4D, also the 5R55E doesn't have the brass thrust washers, it has bearings.
 






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