How to: - 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary | Page 8 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

How to: 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
Runnin'OnEmpty said:
:thumbsup: Good job, Matt. So how does it shift? I presume the 2-3 flare is gone? And did you replace the EPC solenoid?

I did mine almost a year ago, with about 11K miles on it now, and still no problems. (Knock on wood and cross fingers.) I noticed immediately after doing the work, that the transmission seemed to shift at more uniform RPM points. Seemed to change gears much better than when stock. Hope yours is doing as well.

Have to go now; gotta chase that fat man and his reindeer off my roof.....

Merry Christmas and Happy Hanukkah to all,

ROE

Thank you and Happy Holidays!

I'm taking a break from my guests, so here's the rundown...

These items were not installed:
Pressure Riser(The pressure riser supplied with this correction package keeps line pressure at a consistent level during operation. Why?)
Coast clutch spacer(couldn't get it out and was not willing to force it)
Remote servo spring something or other(blue color)

My 5R55E has 104k on it and my particular issue was the 3rd shift flare and it's been fixed. It still is a less solid shift compared to the first two points, but the rpm flare is completely gone. It's actually the "3rd" shift point and all points after that are softer than points one and two. Am I making sense?

I did not change the EPC since I did not feel it was a problem area and again, it can easily be changed later.

Here is what I immediately noticed:

Better resonse from stop
No Reverse delay(mine was slight at best, now it's completely gone)
Solid shifts under medium/heavy accel
OEM shifts normal accel
More consistant shifting points
Shifting into OD is late(which is nice to me, I hated early shifts into OD)
Solid down shifts

Most noticable was the response and firmness. Before mods the 5R55E seemed confused more than anything else, my guess is this was caused by 6 seperate seal blowouts on the sep plate. Now it's definitely in shape.

Like I stated earlier, it would be great if there were explainations for each individual bore mod and causes of listed fixes.

Oh and I put a drain plug in too.

I will update my 5R55E's health here periodically, for the sake of science.

I am also interested to know when the clutch bands come into play. Is there a seperate band for each gear or a set of bands that operate on every shift?

Regards,
Matt
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Matt.... thanks for posting your results. I will try and share what I learn as I learn it... I learn something every day, and folks like you who post results only further my knowledge and everyone else's. In way too many cases the whys of certain aftermarket fixes are a mystery to folks like us. Sonnax is opening up the mystery a little. Anyway I am constantly learning and soon I hope to post some thoughts on various problems in a simple thread so people can look at the thread and find their problem and maybe find some possibly causes and know what fixes might be best for them.

On bands... go to http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission.htm and read up on auto transmission operation (a great site and a good explainations.) Bands and clutches are the things that make planetary gearsets work like they should. The automatic transmission is all about planetary gearsets. That site will help explain it.

After you read it if you think there is something I can explain better, or if you still have Q's let me know. I solicit your ideas and ideas from others of threads on auto trannies that would be helpful.
 






Ok, so I have been reading this thread and have already had some PM contact with Glacier about the problem I am having. Last thurs., my 96 2WD ex with 140,000 started to not shift into 2nd gear. All other gears fine, just 2nd. If I shift into 2nd manually, the transmission slips, not completely in neutral, but definitely not solid. After a short time, the CEL came on and then later the O/D light started flashing. On Fri., I had to drive 165 miles home for Christmas, no problem, just when I had to stop, I had to rev 1st up to about 4000, then take my foot off of the gas to let it drop into 3rd. BTW, the truck has been maintained pretty well and has not been abused. Driven hard on the highway, but not abused. Very little towing. So today, I dropped the pan, no pieces of anything, just the standard metal sludge clinging to the magnet and some brass/bronze flecks (microscopic) in the filter. Replaced filter and fluid. Took to Autozone and checked trouble codes: P0756 shift solenoid #2 performance. This jives with Glacier's supposition of a shift solenoid problem.

Questions:

1. Is it possible/probable that this is the only problem, or is it likely that there is a broken band or other rebuild-requiring problem?

2. Can I do some kind of drive test to determine if there is another problem (mechanical related)?

3. Which solenoid is #2, EPC, TCC, etc.?

4. Can the solenoids be replaced without removing the valve body?

5. Should I go ahead and do the shift kit and other modifications while I repair this?

Thanks, in advance, for any help.

Sam Milton
 






samrebel said:
Questions:

1. Is it possible/probable that this is the only problem, or is it likely that there is a broken band or other rebuild-requiring problem?

2. Can I do some kind of drive test to determine if there is another problem (mechanical related)?

3. Which solenoid is #2, EPC, TCC, etc.?

4. Can the solenoids be replaced without removing the valve body?

5. Should I go ahead and do the shift kit and other modifications while I repair this?

Thanks, in advance, for any help.

Sam Milton

1. If it's having trouble shifting into 2nd then you may have a bad solenoid or the seal has broken on the sep plate. Plus you have a code to back that up. Honestly, you could have some internal issues, but you can start by doing this as a possible fix. In the end it'll cost you about $200.

2. You've pretty much done this already.

3. See attached photo.

4. Yes

5. Might as well do the Ford kit, Superior Shift Correction kit and Sonnax boost valve while you're in there.

Good Luck,
Matt
 

Attachments

  • A4LD5R55E.jpg
    A4LD5R55E.jpg
    47.5 KB · Views: 7,802






Yes, do the valve body upgrade stuff. Change the EPC solenoid also. The solenoids do not last the life of the vehicle, and the EPC is the least likely to, and most important. Do those, and pray. Those things would be needed even if the trans needs rebuilding, so no money is lost doing it. Good luck,
 






Much thanks, Glacier, Matt and Don, for your quick help. I'm going to do the valve body rebuild and replace the #2 solenoid, just as soon as I get home where my tools are. Two more questions:

1. Is the consensus that it is better to do the Superior and the TSB rather than do the Transgo kit?

2. Does anybody know the Ford part number for the #2 solenoid?


Sam Milton
 












samrebel said:
Much thanks, Glacier, Matt and Don, for your quick help. I'm going to do the valve body rebuild and replace the #2 solenoid, just as soon as I get home where my tools are. Two more questions:

1. Is the consensus that it is better to do the Superior and the TSB rather than do the Transgo kit?

2. Does anybody know the Ford part number for the #2 solenoid?


Sam Milton

You should read through this diary again. Glacier found the Transgo kit to be an inferior duplication of the Ford kit.

http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/4R44E_5R55E_Shift_and_Coast_Solenoid_1995_on_p/609-00056841u.htm
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/m...B&Category_Code=4R44Esolenoid&Product_Count=3
 






2001ExpSport said:
You should read through this diary again. Glacier found the Transgo kit to be an inferior duplication of the Ford kit....

I would not characterize the TransGo kit as inferior, and Chris did not either. He stated that he didn't think that a couple of things needed to be done. Chris knows the purpose and workings of the internal trans parts far better than most people.

I discovered before doing my 99 5R55E that the TransGo kit was designed to do everything that the Ford TSB's are for, and be applicable to all models of the 5R55E. I chose to use thre TransGp kit because of that, and the fact that I have had great success with many other TransGo kits. I trust them, and I know that they have been in business for decades longer than Superior, they owned the phrase "Shift Kit." I have yet to test my vehicle yet, but I am not worried. Good luck,
 






CDW6212R said:
I would not characterize the TransGo kit as inferior, and Chris did not either. He stated that he didn't think that a couple of things needed to be done. Chris knows the purpose and workings of the internal trans parts far better than most people.

I couldn't agree more and my wording wasn't quite right. In my opinion the Transgo kit is obsolete.

Matt
 






96 4R55E no 2nd gear update

Ok so I dropped the pan again and replaced the SSB (2nd gear shift solenoid) with one from my local Ford dealer ($68 plus tax). This did not cure the problem, but it seems to be better. Also I swear it is shifting into 2nd sometimes. So I am going to replace the EPC solenoid as suggested by everyone, and do the TSB and Superior kits. If that does not cure the problem, I will just have to bite the bullet and do a rebuild. BTW, is it true you must pull the engine to get the transmission out?

I still have a few questions, also. Does most of the above discussion include the 4R55E? What differences in procedure or parts exist, if any? I know that the separator plate and gaskets are different, but what about other differences? Does anybody know the two letter designation at the end of the Ford part number means? I can't figure out what the part number for the sep plate should be, based on the TSB. My truck is a 96 XLT V6. Also, here are the parts I plan to get. Will someone look at this and see if they think it is right?

-TSB kit 3L5Z-7M203-JA
-Improved solenoid bracket XL2Z-7L491-AA
-Valve body separator F5TZ-7A008-CA ????????????
-Sep plate to case gasket 2L5Z-7C155-AA
-Sep plat to main gasket 2L5Z-7D100-BA
-EPC solenoid XL2Z-7G383AA (This is the later model EPC I
can use with the TSB, right?)
-Sonnax boost valve 37947-01K
-Superior kit K4R55E
-some kind of transmission service manual

Also, if I am doing a complete valve body rebuild, I need to replace the three other shift solenoids, right? I have the model number at home, but I know that it is the right one. Something like 7G484 or something. Should I also replace the TCC solenoid?

Thanks again for all the the help. You guys are doing the work which helps all of us understand our trucks and save money fixing them. (and making them run better :)

Sam Milton
 






Sam....
Let me see if I can answer your questions. First the 4R55 VB and the 5R55 are same or nearly so, so what works for one works for the other as best i know. I will caution I have not rebuilt a 4R55 valve body but about 10 5R55E's now.

Your EPC replacement number is correct. TCC is also a modulated solenoid, and so will wear out, but not sure youo have that problem, so it is your call to replace it. Shift solenoids check their resistance and clean then by blowing brake cleaner thru them as you cycle them using 12V.... be careful of fire.

I will have to visit the tsb to see what plate and gaskets you will need. Just follow the diary and you will be fine.

Even if this does not solve your promlem, you will have a rebuilt VB in your rebuilt tranny, better than the rebuilder would have given you.

Take your time and you'll do fine. If you have questions feel free to ask. Oh, I am told the two letter designator at the end is build series. AA is first, AB second, etc.... significant design change would be BA etc.... take that with a grain of salt...
 






Sam, call your local Ford parts guy to get the right sep plate numbers. That's what I did with mine since two or three plate numbers overlap each other depending on year.

As for the Sonnax and Superior kit numbers you are on track. Both kits and teh TSB come with detailed enough instructions to do the rebuild without a manual.

I personally think you should do the rebuild first and then replace the solenoids if it's needed. If you do want to do all the solenoids, you can buy a solenoid kit which includes all you need for a particular trans.

Matt
 






I agree with most all of that. Change the solenoids based on mileage, or indicated symptoms. If symptoms don't point to a specific solenoid, only change them based on mileage. The EPC has worn out far faster than the others, so always change that unless the mileage is extremely low, say under 30K.

The solenoids should be looked at like other normal wear parts, like water pumps, timing belts, timing chains, etc. They take a significant amount of labor to change alone. When doing some other labor which gets you to those parts, consider replacing them to save future labor. Good luck,
 






I went through the same problems with my 95 that samrebel is having with his. I did the Ford mod using the Ford kit, VB plate and the VB gaskets. But I am reasonably sure what cured the problem was replacing both servos. Ford has a TSB 97-17-24 that addresses this symptom. They can be replaced without pulling the tranny and they were cheap as well. They can be tested with an air hose with a narrow rubber tip. I set mine to about 30 psi and air passed by both servos. They were worn and hard as a brick.

Many thanks to Glacier for this diary, I kept the laptop on my bench as a reference while I did the upgrade.

Frank
 






I am getting ready to order my parts: Ford parts from Ford Parts Network, obviously, but can anyone recommend a good place to order the Sonnax boost valve and the Superior kit from online? I am reasonably sure that the parts I listed above are correct, except for the valve body separator. The parts man at a local Ford dealership looked up part # F5TZ-7A008-CA, which he could enter into the computer directly and would come up as applicable to my vehicle, but it did not come up the normal way (did not understand this, I guess the normal way is browsing a list). He stated that the numbers listed after the part # on the TSB are the transmission codes that the part is applicable to, and this particular part is applicable to all of the 96 trucks. Does this sound right to you, Matt? Also, based on Frank's post, I will also replace the intermediate and OD servos. The parts guy found number F77Z-7D021-A2A for a "piston and rod assembly" which is used for both servos. Does this sound right to you guys?

Sam
 






Sam,

On page 7, post #136 I have listed sites for all the parts. Post numbers are located on the upper right of each post.

Matt
 






For those doing servos (never a bad idea they DO harden up and cost like $8 apiece) - just a ***** to get to on some setups, especially the A4LD installed....PM me and I can send (loan) you the FORD tool for compressing the servo covers . It's not a requirement but it sure makes the job a lot easier. I can also send you the Superior kit modified springs (I have a bunch of brand new extras). First come first served.
 






In the past, I've used a welding "C" clamp vice grip to compress the servo covers, and pistons. This holds them in place while those clips that hold the covers could be removed/installed. This vice grip clamp could only be used with the pan off, of course.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





The parts that Sam has listed are the same as what I ordered including the servos. You might also replace the orings on the servo cover, I don't have the number in front of me, but they were about a buck each from Ford.
I loosened the band adjustment to allow the piston and cover to be compressed enough to remove and install the snap rings. I also used a large boxend wrench with the exaust pipe as a fulcrum and the round part of the wrench flat against the cover to compress the cover. Then a small short screwdriver to remove the snap ring. An extra hand from my helper, (my teenage daughter) made it easy!

Frank
 






Back
Top