How to: 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary

[2000StreetRod]

check the pan & filter

If you're going to replace the filter I suggest that you check the pan for particles of metal and open the filter. If there is a lot of large metal particles then a rebuild is probably needed. If there are only fine particles then you may get by with a valve body inspection and upgrade as required.

 

[bikrboyr6]

Thanks for the advice 2000StreetRod. Ill probably dig into it this weekend! I reset the code right after I pulled it. It hasnt showed up again (yet) even after I have already driven more than 100 miles since the reset.

 

[BentValve]

5R55E problem/question and ...HELP!!!

Hello everyone.

I've been lurking in the shadows of this site for about 2 weeks now. WOW!! I don't think I've seen this much useful information from such knowledgeable techs!

Now, on to the issue.

About 2 weeks ago, my buddy's Explorer Sportrac(has over 225,000 miles and has NEVER been serviced!!!) simply would not engage when shifted into the "D". However, it would engage and drive "fair" in manual mode; meaning it would shift 1-2, 2-3, 3-4(all were slow, sloppy and had the "flare"). No over drive below 40(odd) MPH. If attempted below 40(odd) MPH or under power/acceleration it would simple act as though it was in neutral(no gear/no gear engagement). Also, no engine braking in 1st gear. Reverse was another issue. It(reverse) is "there" but seems to only be partially engage, and not enough to back the truck up a slight incline!(Something likening to having the emergency brake partially engaged, you can "feel" the gear, but you're not going anyway and it stops "pulling" once you let off the accelerator...) Also some infrequent and mild shuttering in 1st only.

After reading virtually every page on the topic here and EVERY page in this diary, it seemed the best course of action was:
to drop the pan
perform the TSB(probably should have replaced the EPC as its out of spec at 22ohms, but the trans shops and dealership parts depts were closed)
replace the reverse servo o-rings and gasket(wanted the "D" rings but couldn't find them locally)
fresh filter and oil
THOROUGH CLEANING!!!
and go from there.

Did this yesterday morning. There were no metal flakes in the pan, however, the magnet looked like a tube of anti-seize erupted on it and the pan itself had a film of super fine particles but again, no flakes, chuncks or anything bigger than fine dust. VB was removed(found blown gasket in the reverse servo area and also near the first solenoid in the bank of four on the opposite end), cleaned, TSB installed to the letter(minus alignment tools, I used a couple of bolts and proper sized dowel pins) including new pressure relief valve, VB reinstalled and torqued to spec and sequence, filter and oil.

There was an improvement but didn't fix the actual issue of not being fully functional in "D" or "R". It still has virtually 0 pull when placed in "D" and "R" although there are definite signs of engagement. Reverse is better but still not fully engaged. Shifts between all gears are positive and solid(exception is (3-4 with VERY mild -250prm - flare) and overdrive will now engage at "low" speed. No shuttering in any gear and there is definite engine braking in manual 1st gear.

I don't have a line pressure gauge(nor access to one) and am working in the driveway of my townhouse with limited tools so my diagnostics are going to be limited and rudimentary.

I took it for a drive yesterday and manual operation is about 90%. It will operate in a version of "automatic" mode, less overdrive, if you have the overdrive turned off and initially shift it into 1st gears, then straight to "D" once you're rolling. Overdrive will engage, however, you have to turn it "on" once it shifts into high gear. If not, it acts like neutral. There is no downshift functionality so when you reach a certain speed, usually below 5 MPH, you have to started over in first or, it behaves as though it's in neutral. 1st and 2nd work regardless of the overdrive status. to the best of my knowledge and of what I have personally observed, the OD light has not flashed during this nor is the check engine light on.

With all that said, is it possible that the EPC is the cause or culprit? Has anyone seen, heard of, experienced this type of issue? Anything else it could be? If it is in "limp home" mode, can I clear the codes manually or will a shop have to clear them? (have heard of a method of clearing codes using the battery cables)

Thank you in advance for all your help and for maintaining a terrific site!!

Merry Christmas to all


p.s.
He's driving my Durango in the interim until I can get his truck fixed, then I have to work on mine...

 

[2000StreetRod]

recheck the ATF level

Make sure the ATF level is not low. If the level is two quarts low the transmission will exhibit similar symptoms. The EPC solenoid is modulated by the PCM so it is the most likely to wear out. The TCC solenoid is also modulated by the PCM so it is the next most likely to wear out.

 

[BentValve]

Thanks!!

Thanks StreetRod!!

Yes, the fluid levels are spot on both before and after the valve body update.

Since I will have to go back into the pan, would it be a good idea to change body solenoids out, especially in consideration of the mileage?

Also, are these symptoms of a "limp home" mode?

 

[2000StreetRod]

limp mode

I've never experienced limp mode but from what I've read on the forum the PCM increases line pressure via the EPC so the shifts are harsh.

 

[BentValve]

New EPC and TCC... Still no go

Ok, I just crawl out from under the truck (again) replaced the EPC and TCC. I rechecked them both with a different DVOM to make sure mine wasn't faulty and it turns out it was. The EPC was 5.1 ohms and the TCC was 10.5. All shift solenoids were 27 and change.

The issues still remain with absolutely not change from old EPC/TCC.

However, I actually had help tonight so I laid under the truck to have a listen and there is a definite sound difference between park and "R" and "D". In park there is little mechanical noise other than the sounds of the engine.

Shift to "R" or "D" and there is a "whirling" sound coming from the transmission. The only thing I can liken it to is that of an older hydraulic pump that is cavitating slightly or in bypass or possibly a VERY noisy hydrostatic drive motor. My apologies but this is the best I can do do describe the sound.

Shift to 1st, no sound.
2nd, VERY little sound.
Still have Positive manual 1st gear and a solid manual 2nd gear and solid manual "D" with solid, though occasionally delayed, "OD".
Still have engine breaking in Manual 1st.
Shift characteristics are the same.

Is there spool possibly stuck open or a spring broken, weak, etc.? I didn't do a full rebuild of the VB(tight on time), just as thorough a cleaning as one can do still assembled.

Ideas, thoughts, suggestions. I'm at the end of my reasoning abilities.

:scratch::scratch:

 

[BentValve]

Question

I'm planning on getting refurbed/rebuilt VB from a local place called Trans-star(formerly Repco). I bought the EPC, TCC and reverse servo seals and gasket from them.

My question is: will I need to get a new separator plate with the bonded gasket from Ford when I swap the VB?

and,

has anyone had any experience purchasing rebuilt VB's from these guys? From what I understand they're all over.

Thanks again to everyone here, especially StreetRod, for taking the time to share the expertise and advice. One day I hope to have the opportunity to learn half of what you guys have forgotten.

Cheers!

 

[BrooklynBay]

Yes, you have to either get a bonded separator plate or gaskets for a non bonded separator plate.

 

[BentValve]

clarification

I need to get another bonded separator plate to replace the one I just put in if I replace the VB?

Does anyone think the VB is still the issue or am I following the wrong line of thinking?

 

[kciRsnurB]

Looking for expert advice ...

Great advice everyone! So much so, I signed up for Elite level. Well worth the $20!

OK, here's my situation. I recently bought a '98 Explorer 4WD XLT w/ the 5R55E transmission. 140k miles on the car, well cared for, shiny paint, regular services, recent repairs/services, almost new Michelin XLT M/S all around, etc., for the whopping price of $500! The catch? No reverse!

The fluid is clean, nice red color & smells like "cherry pop" (an old crotchety mechanic relayed that to me as a younger man & it’s always stuck). There are no codes held in the computer. It shifts smoothly from 1-2-3-OD both automatically & by manually moving the gear shift selector. When flooring it, it downshifts automatically just fine. The electronic OD disengage works properly. The 4WD HI & LO work fine. It also downshifts/engine brakes just fine from 3-2. However, there is no downshift/engine braking from 2-1 ... along w/ no reverse.

The previous owner said the mechanic at the shop he took it to said, "The reverse band is broken" & was quoting him $3-4k to fix it. So, he dumped the car.

I bought a used transmission for $125 (nasty brown fluid) for the sole purpose of rebuilding & doing a swap out. HOWEVER, after reading through this thread (& am now in the process of 'checking it twice' ... sorry, it's that time of year! I'm thinking it could also be a ripped gasket in the valve body causing a pressure loss in those 'circuits.'

I've not dropped the pan for further inspection, since once I start this project, I'd like to make it a one-day (ya, right!) project & would like to be prepped w/ parts on hand for either one of these two routes ...

1) Bad Valve Body: Buy one of the units w/ a bonded gasket plate from the guys @ Central Valve Body. Drop the pan, replace the VB & filter. Flush the entire system. Drive away.

2) Bad Reverse Band: Buy a Master Rebuild kit, a VB from the guys at Central Valve Body, a RECON Torque Converter from Transtar Industries, Inc., rebuild the used tranny I bought. Once rebuilt, swap out trannies, flush the tranny cooler, refill, & (hopefully) drive away.

Sooooo, based on my description of the symptoms, any of you 'really smart guys' out there have any insight on what the issue likely is? I have all the factory manuals & the ATSG manual. I’ve done everything to a car EXCEPT rebuild an automatic transmission, so think I have the ability to go down that road.

Thoughts, comments, advice greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Rick.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! Thanks for becoming elite so fast! Test the band with a phillips screwdriver to see if it has spring action. Check the low/reverse servo's tip & O ring seals for damage.

 

[kciRsnurB]

Not trying to be dense here, but just for clarification, when you say, “Test the band with a phillips screwdriver to see if it has spring action” does that mean to drop the pan, remove the low/reverse band servo cover, and then push up on the low/reverse band servo piston to see if it springs back?

Then, pull the low/reverse band servo piston and rod (7D189) out and check it for damage (O-ring seal and the tip of the servo rod)?

Either way, it sounds like there’s going to be a little more detective work, a couple of quarts of Mercon V, an ATF shower and a gasket involved! Sound about right? (and of course, I was hoping for the easy/osmosis answer!).

Thanks!

 

[CDW6212R]

Not trying to be dense here, but just for clarification, when you say, “Test the band with a phillips screwdriver to see if it has spring action” does that mean to drop the pan, remove the low/reverse band servo cover, and then push up on the low/reverse band servo piston to see if it springs back?

Then, pull the low/reverse band servo piston and rod (7D189) out and check it for damage (O-ring seal and the tip of the servo rod)?

Either way, it sounds like there’s going to be a little more detective work, a couple of quarts of Mercon V, an ATF shower and a gasket involved! Sound about right? (and of course, I was hoping for the easy/osmosis answer!).

Thanks!

You've basically got it right there. The pan gasket you reuse, clean it and save it over and over. The bands can usually be checked by finding an opening up around the VB to push on it with a thin screwdriver. With the reverse piston out there will be less pressure on the band, try to get at it before pulling the piston. It will take several quarts of Mercon V, and much of that will drip on your arms after the pan is off.

I would try to save the original trans, and not use the burned up trans. Any burned up trans is a gamble as to whether you can get it completely clean of debris. Rebuilding an automatic takes some specialty tools that you don't want to buy and use just once. Hope for it being the VB or gasket. Regards,

 

[BentValve]

Separator Plate... reuse or replace

Good Morning Everyone,

Please excuse my ignorance.

Is the bonded separator plate "reusable" or is it a single use item?

Thanks again!!

 

[2000StreetRod]

Separator plate gaskets

The valve body separator plate gaskets are not reusable. Therefore, a bonded gasket separator plate is not reusable.

 

[BentValve]

Unfortunately, that's what I suspected.

Any source for these that's cheaper than the $38 from the local Ford dealer?
Also, are all 5r55e valve bodies the same?

Thanks!

 

[BrooklynBay]

Check WWW.TransmissionPartsUSA.Com.

 

[Randall Parker]

Just replaced the EPC blow off valve and separator plate and we now only have 2nd and 1st gears. Dimple on the new EPC was UP toward the sky. Now we have no R or Drive. Did not move the check balls. Used no sealant on the separator plate but made sure to visually align. Had no torque specs so we made it tight with a 3/8 drive holding onto handle. Probably 8lbs. Any ideas what we did wrong? Does the valve body or transmission need to be bled of air?

This is a 2000 Explorer

 

[BrooklynBay]

It doesn't need to be bled.