How to: 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary

[aylagas]

I recomemnd CENTRAL VALVES BODY, Mr. Donny Lester

http://www.centralvalvebodies.com/

 

[cross6]

Can a 2004 5R55S still benefit from the better pump flow control and epc relief assemblies shown in this thread? (from ford or transgo or whoever) Or did Ford update them?

 

[Alexjordan22]

I followed the diary using ford parts. New separator plate, EPC, and TSB blow off valve kit and my 2-3 flare still exists. The separator plate was the correct one, it was torqued in sequence to the correct torque specs and I used Mercon V. So i dont know where to go from here. Im wondering if I have a problem inside the transmission or if I need new valve body. I put the parts in the stock valve body and it didn't help.

What should I do? Take the trans out and replace friction plates and clutches, or get a rebuild valve body and try that now?

 

[CDW6212R]

I followed the diary using ford parts. New separator plate, EPC, and TSB blow off valve kit and my 2-3 flare still exists. The separator plate was the correct one, it was torqued in sequence to the correct torque specs and I used Mercon V. So i dont know where to go from here. Im wondering if I have a problem inside the transmission or if I need new valve body. I put the parts in the stock valve body and it didn't help.

What should I do? Take the trans out and replace friction plates and clutches, or get a rebuild valve body and try that now?

Did you see any evidence of gasket damage in the prone areas of the separator plate to case? That area may have fluid losses in many instances, even just after replacing the gaskets. Sonnax came up with an improvement to the stability of the VB in that area, using set screws lodged in the nearby case passages. They have an article about it on Sonnax.

 

[Alexjordan22]

Yes, when I originally took the pan off I saw the gasket blew out at both of the common areas, by the reverse servo and also by the solenoid bank. I have driven it maybe 5 or 10 miles since doing the repair and it's still the same issue. Is it at all possible that the new gasket blew out immediately? I haven't heard of this happening so I doubt it, I just don't know what else it could be.

I did not however adjust my bands when I was under it. So maybe that needs to be done next.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

I followed the diary using ford parts. New separator plate, EPC, and TSB blow off valve kit and my 2-3 flare still exists. The separator plate was the correct one, it was torqued in sequence to the correct torque specs and I used Mercon V. So i dont know where to go from here. Im wondering if I have a problem inside the transmission or if I need new valve body. I put the parts in the stock valve body and it didn't help.

What should I do? Take the trans out and replace friction plates and clutches, or get a rebuild valve body and try that now?

To fix my flare I threw all the parts that were available at
the time into it, including a Superior shift kit. The shift
kit included a steel spool valve to replace an aluminum
one. I figured the steel valve might have been part of
the fix...?

Anyway, that would be my suggestion; to install the
Superior kit, or replace the entire valve body. The kit
was about $35 and took a Saturday afternoon to install.

 

[Alexjordan22]

Suggestion noted. As you pointed out I also didn't do a shift kit, and was wondering if maybe that would have helped too. I think i'll start this weekend off by just adjusting the bands first and seeing what kind of difference that makes. If that doesn't help then I'll try a shift kit next.

Any other suggestions that I may have missed?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Did you replace the servo pistons?

 

[Alexjordan22]

I did not. I removed the servos and inspected them. the rubber on both was not hard or cracked. The only odd thing I found was one of them had kind of an odd wear pattern. like one section of the tip of the servo was worn in a perfect square showing a gold-ish color while the rest of the tip was kind of silver.

 

[CDW6212R]

I agree the bands should be adjusted. The flare is generally from a fluid pressure loss in the shifting circuit affected, so each of the different possible leaks can contribute. Do the bands first since that is external and needs to be done as normal maintenance.

 

[Alexjordan22]

Will do. I'll report back with if it helped or not this weekend. Thanks.

 

[Alexjordan22]

Well, adjusted both bands and it still slips between 2 and 3. I've done everything except a shift kit. I'm considering ordering up an overhaul kit and just doing the whole thing.

I could buy a 40 dollar shift kit and more fluid and give that a shot, bit if that doesnt fix it then.I'm mot gonna be thrilled to buy even more fluid and take everything apart again.

Quite discouraging.

 

[CDW6212R]

That is discouraging. You don't have to buy new fluid each time though, if the fluid is not old just be careful draining it into a clean pan. You can get by with probably just one extra quart each time you go into it, for spills etc. If the fluid did look dirty, then it would need to be changed.

I don't know why some people have apparently had success with any of the three brands of parts. Each vehicle is different and how the owner sees the issues is also.

I would do the TransGo kit myself, it seems to be the one that covers the most models. The Superior kit does also get good reviews, and I'm sure it has less parts and is easier.

When you do get back into it, pay close attention to the gaskets, take the plate off very gently to preserve any evidence.

 

[Alexjordan22]

Every time I get the fluid out its filthy. It seems to be getting dirty really fast, I've been into it every Saturday for a month now and everytime I drain fluid it looks horrible.

Ill buy a shift kit this week, install it next week along with a new separator plate and see how that goes I guess.

 

[CDW6212R]

The fluid debris to me points to a bigger problem than just the 2/3 flare, assuming you haven't driven it really hard between the pan drops. The flare is a slipping at the 2/3 shift, but if not hard on the gas it shouldn't create too much debris, and ed up with the fluid like you described. If you have been hard on the gas during the 2/3 shift a lot, then the flare could be the only problem.

I forgot every detail you posted, but did you replace the 2/3 shift solenoid? If the solenoids have more than mild mileage, say 50k or more, I'd replace some. If the mileage is a lot, say 100k+, do them all. They aren't expensive, except for the EPC, which is also critical. If the EPC isn't low mileage, do that one and the 2/3 at least. It's your call of course, but the work and money you spend on the parts is not lost, if rebuilt they will still be good for the future.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

I too replaced the EPC solenoid in my 2-3 flare fix.
As I said, everthing was replaced that was available
except the kitchen sink. I didn't want to do the job
over.

If memory serves, the replaced parts were the EPC,
solenoid bracket, separator plate with bonded gaskets,
along with the Superior shift kit. (The kit required
drilling out an existing hole in the separator plate,
and replacing aluminum spool valve(s) with steel.)

When aluminum slides on aluminum, galling tends to
occur. I figured that was the purpose of the steel
spool valve; maybe the existing aluminum one was
sticking in it's bore...? Just a theory.

I don't know which part fixed the flare, but it was
indeed fixed and has shifted well for the last 10 years
and over 100K miles.

Alex, you mentioned the fluid is dirty. The EPC seems
to be sensitive to clogging from dirty fluid. I think it
wears fast too; mine started flaring with only 45K miles
on it and was about 3 years old.

 

[Alexjordan22]

I only mess with the truck on weekends. Its my mother-in-law's explorer and I'm trying to get it going for her. I don't touch it during the week so it barely gets driven in between when I work on it. When I do drive it I'm gentle, except when I want to get on it and see how bad it is then.it slips really bad from 2-3.

I can get a 2-3 solenoid from work, and I planned on buying a shift kit and trying that next weekend.

The truck has 112k on it. Its not a tow rig or anything just a kid hauler. I guess ill give those.parts a shot and see what happens. I ohmed out all my solenoids after replacing the EPC and they all checked out. But iys worth a shot.

Thanks for your help this far. I'm ready to be done with this haha.

 

[utahkyle]

did several repairs, still slipping 2-3, help hoped for

hello everyone, I am running into a similar problem. I have a 2000 Mountaineer with 134000 miles. I am sure the tranny is all origional. It was slipping across most the shifts, so (thanks to this wonderful group of folks on this forum) I replaced the valve body gasket (it was blown out in 2 places), put in the Superior shift kit, and adjusted the bands to the proper specs. The fluid and pan was very clean, just the slightest metal "dust" on the magnet, (no "chunks" of any type.) This work was done over several weekends, and the slipping problem seemed to be getting better, and after all work was completed it seemed perfect for about a week. It then started to slip 2-3, mainly when it was cold outside. After a few minutes of running it stopped slipping. Now the slipping seems to not be going away after it warms up like it did last week. A week ago, the OD/OFF light started blinking its cursed warning, but after I turned the car off and restarted it, the light went away and it seemed to run as well (or as poorly) as it did. the light has not come on again, just that once. I do not have a reader to know the code it was putting out.

I did do a few things wrong but corrected them ASAP. (In time, I hope, to have not done massive seriuos damage.) I adjusted the top end band (closest to the bell housing) to the 120 in/lbs. but forgot to back it off 2X. A quick test drive told me I had goofed so I pulled back into the shop and re-did it all correctly. OOPS. and I was not aware of the differences in fluids so after the first session I put in dextron 3, then after a few weeks learned about Mercon V and replaced it with that. Are these goofs fatal?

Do any of you have any sugeestions where to turn next? I read here about replacing the 2-3 solinoid. yes? and how do I tell which one is that one?

thanks
kyle

 

[wood1]

How far and what speeds did you reach in your test drive with the band tightened up?

 

[utahkyle]

did several repairs, still slipping 2-3, help hoped for

I drove for a few miles at low speed, a country road, it didnt feel odd at first, then started to really drag, (like the E brake was on, which in effect I guess it was!) then I drove back to the shop. I didnt hear any odd noises, just felt the drag