How to: 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary

[Alexjordan22]

Just thought everyone should know that I fixed my problem with a rebuilt Valve Body from Donny at CVB. Price was $250 shipped with the explorerforum discount and I couldn't be happier.

ADVICE TO ANYONE DEALING WITH A GOOFY 5R55E: Start with a rebuilt unti from CVB. I started off with just a gasket and EPC and it snowballed until I had done everything but the VB. START AT CENTRAL VALVE BODIES and save yourself the time and trouble.

 

[DallasGT01]

So which kit is the best? As far as upgrade wise I have a small flare and it will randomly say check transmission!... when it says that it kicks real hard into 3rd ...

 

[Arms28]

Ok, here is my problem with my 01 sport trac. A couple months ago I had a leaked in the steel line that runs the ATF from the transmission to the cooler up by the radiator. I did not notice the leak until the levels got low enough for the transmission to start slipping. I found a fix using Fuel Injector hose and clamps, that I picked up from the local AutoZone. Everything ran well for about another month, and then it all when to hell.
One day on my way to work I stopped to get gas. After filling up, I attempted to put my Explorer in Drive an d go on my merry way. My car did not move at all when put in Drive. After a couple seconds of waiting and getting frustrated I just slammed on the gas and after around 4500 rpms my transmission caught my tires spun a little and I was off to work. I stopped at many lights and stop signs with no shifting problems. At lunch I checked the ATF levels and everything looked fine. When leaving work I put my explorer in Reverse and backed out of my parking spot fine no problems or hesitation. Then I shifted it into drive and CRAP the transmission wouldn’t engage. Well tac it up again and bam it catches in to gear. I drive it all the way home (12 miles) and park it, and that is where she still sits another month later.
I dropped the transmission pan. The oil looked good, no metal in the bottom of the pan. Everything looked good. I dropped the Valve Body and found that the gasket was blown around the reverse servo much like in all the other pictures. All the Solenoids tested fine. I have ordered a new VB Gasket, a Transgo shift k kit, a new EPC, and the new Solenoid brackets. Is there any shot that this will fix my problems? I have a bad feeling that while the gasket was blown out that that might just be a small part of a much bigger problem. Anyway thanks for your help Here guys. Without this post I wouldn’t even have tried pulling my VB on my own.

 

[kkjb4x4.0]

Greetings everyone! So I've been following this thread for close to 20 months when I decided to purchase a 99 ex sport that had a "goofy trans".I decided I could repair the trans issues and I did.When I tore it apart I found the gaskets torn in the usual areas so I installed new gaskets,non bonded,as well as a new epc solenoid and all was good.Last summer I foolishly towed a small 15ft camper in overdrive and ever since my trans has gotten lazy.I dont have a 2-3 flare but 4-5 seemed sluggish and recently a delay going into drive.So I ordered the sonnax zipkit and a upgraded bonded seperator plate,plate$65,zipkit an astounding $165,I also have a new filter and atf. I have the valve body off and the gasket is in one piece but slightly missaligned. I have two questions,does anyone see a problem using the zipkit and bonded seperator plate? And can the bands be adjusted with the valve body removed? Any and all advise is appreciated,thanks Ken.

 

[PopRichie77]

Not familiar with the zip kit but if you use a bonded plate, they usually block the original pressure blow off valve and a new one is needed in one of the valve ports.

Just checked the Sonnax zip kit out, most of these modifications were available before, as individual kits, they have now put them all into one convenient kit, along with some new ones.

 

[kkjb4x4.0]

So I assume my options are to use the old plate and non bonded gaskets or order the revised blow off valve from the steelership?

 

[PopRichie77]

Compare the bonded plate to the old one but usually the bonded plate doesn't have the blow off hole. If it doesn't have it and you want to use it, yes, you need the revised blow off valve.

 

[kkjb4x4.0]

Thank you,I will compare them but will probably order the pop off valve on Monday from ford.

 

[2001xlt4d]

okay, new here but not to the good olde 5r55e....


my question is, can i just buy a valve body from central and drop it in? i just replaced my tranny in my 01 4.0 ranger and i know it will need some tlc sooner than later. i know enough to get me into trouble but that trouble could be catastrophic.. so i dont want to screw anything up... thanks in advanced.

 

[PopRichie77]

Yes, be sure the gasket is good, install all bolts before torqueing, snug up, then torque in proper sequence in 2 stages, be sure to use a INCH pound torque wrench.
The bolts are different lengths be sure to put in the correct places.

 

[kkjb4x4.0]

just an update,ordered the blowoff valve from ford and installed it along with most of the sonnax zipkit however one end plug is refusing to come out.Instructions say to drill a small hole through a bolt hole on the opposite side of the valve body and drive it out but I am reluctant to do this.I believe it is the converter regulator valve,it has a small nipple on the end of it to help remove it.If anyone has any advise on this one please let me know. I also ordered and received a remote trans filter. I removed the grill and made up a bracket and mounted it in front of the rad on the cross member,really easy to access for changes.

 

[BrooklynBay]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217267

 

[kkjb4x4.0]

Thank you,might just save the day.It does spin freely so I'm not sureI can thread anything into it but I will give it a try.

 

[kkjb4x4.0]

alright ,that worked great but the valve behind it came out with the plug and I'm not sure which way it goes in? Closed or open end? Ok figured by the wear pattern open end first!

 

[NickSD]

Many drawings are available. Did you get this problem resolved?

alright ,that worked great but the valve behind it came out with the plug and I'm not sure which way it goes in? Closed or open end? Ok figured by the wear pattern open end first!

 

[kkjb4x4.0]

Yes I think I figured that one out.I put it all back together,bonded plate,ford blow off, fresh fluid, but I had a delay going into gear still and code 732 735. Then it just would'nt go forward at all,reverse is good, so I'm in the process of taking the v/b back off the truck and going through it again, I think I may not have captured a valve correctly with a keeper. Ordering a new bonded plate again,solenoid bracket,and low/reverse servo orings,cant seem to locate the D-rings though. One of my concerns is that sonnax has you enlarge a hole and put a very small pin in it and peen it over, not sure what to do about that yet. I looked into a complete v/b but its almost $600 and I've put too much into this v/b already.
The truck won't move in D,2 or 1st.

 

[PopRichie77]

You possible did something wrong, make sure the L keepers are in the right place and inserted in the correct valve location. Did you check Central Valve Bodies for a price on a rebuilt one?

Some of the L keepers have to be put in while holding the internal valve or the little dog bone shaped piece in place before inserting the last valve and plug that goes in the bore.

 

[kkjb4x4.0]

No I did'nt check with central valve bodies, priced it through my parts supplier and they deal with valve body express. I'm pretty sure I missed a dog bone keeper somewhere, already found a check ball in the wrong spot and read somewhere that can be a problem. Just gonna go through it bore by bore and see what I can find.Truck only has around 105,000 miles so I'm pretty sure the internals are ok,the bands seem to adjust fine and there were no chunks or pieces in the pan.

 

[PopRichie77]

Was looking at your posts again, any valve that has an open end must have a spring in the open end and the springs can't be mixed up, several look the same but are not. All check balls must be in and in the right locations. all valves must be installed correctly, all L keepers must be installed correctly, you can't guess on these things. Nothing can be left out or located wrong. The only spring that can be left out is the one that sonnax tells you to remove.

 

[kkjb4x4.0]

No there was no guessing,I replaced everything bore by bore. I had one spring and valve fly out and detemined the spring went in the open end. I believe I will find the keeper incorrect between the cooler limit valve and thermo bypass valve. Also i did remove that spring that sonnax says to remove.It's very easy,while being very carefull,to get a keeper wrong.