5r55s Trans Troubles after Motor Swap

[Jonah411]

Update- I decided to go for a drive and see if anything had changed by sitting for a day. It changed, but for the bad. It didn’t want to take off like it was before and seemed to have no power. Best described like the brake was on. Going up my driveway wasn’t happening. I turned around and backed it back in my shop. Reverse was working great !!! I have fluid still dripping from underneath, assuming from when I added the 2 QTs. Remember before I added it , it did this. I feel like when I add fluid, it will shift and drive but it’s overfilled. Then it leaks from the vent / overflow and then at that level it starts acting up. Is it possible that I can somehow have the cooler lines hooked up backwards ? I didn’t think there was a wrong way. 2 hoses / pipes and 1 is on top and 1 is on bottom. What if they are flip flopped ? Still be the same thing wouldn’t it ? It’s the only other thing I replaced / repaired. They are not easy to work with or get to either. I wouldn’t mind doing it again if there is a right /wrong way to install them. !! Ugh….its beating me !!!

 

[410Fortune]

Is the exhaust in? O2s hooked up?

Reversing the cooler lines will not cause this

 

[leadfootdriver]

Trans should not leak out of the Vent. You said you put in 12 qts but did you get 12 out? Just to review, the proper level of Fluid is when it splashes out of the fill port on the bottom of the Pan while running but not a solid stream..

https://www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com/uploads/5/8/1/1/5811077/5r55w_fluid_level_setting.pdf

The Vehicle is giving you Error Codes. I'd start there. I'm sure they will point you in the right direction.

 

[Jonah411]

Is the exhaust in? O2s hooked up?

Reversing the cooler lines will not cause this

Yes the front two cats were hooked up just for the testing purposes. My crossover /ypipe is not connected cause I have not welded it back and clearance to the underside of truck.

I drained the entire transmission and lines the first time. Then I changed the filter back to the longer pick up tube , which I originally took out but was sent the short one and I didn’t think much of it. I put 12 back in the first time , then dropped pan and put 5-6 in with the filter. (TC was filled up first time also). Then I opened the Torx fill bolt let it drain to a drop and reinstalled. That’s when it wouldn’t go anywhere at all. So I added 2 qts and walah!! It took off perfect. Then realized it still had the 1-2 delayed shift and OD light came on at same time. Now it has sat for a day , I went to test it and it was awful. Only think that worked good was R. The D felt like breaks on and couldn’t tell the difference between 1,2,3. Shift to neutral and rpms would change. Same with P. I was saying I bet I could add fluid snd it would work again but won’t be filled correctly and will still get the delayed shift. Then it will leak or come out the overflow , then eventually be back to this point now.

I just pulled off the cooler lines from trans and fluid dribbled out the trans itself but not much out of the lines. I hadn’t started it today. Should there be pressure or more fluid come out ??

When I have been adding fluid. I haven’t added it with the truck running or at operating temp. I let it run for 10 min before removing any to get the correct amount. Which I don’t think is ever correct. Overfill get these kinda symptoms ??

 

[410Fortune]

The short filter is for rwd
The long filter is for 4wd

Do you have the correct filter installed?
You cannot run the short filter in a 4wd

The cooler lines are not under pressure no not when the truck is not running

 

[410Fortune]

Okay I re read, sounds like you eventually got the correct deep sump 4wd filter installed

With then short filter in there you can cause cavitation (trans pump runs out of fluid and caviates on pockets of air), this could have caused your current issue

Fluid changes, wrong filter for a bit, sitting dry, could easily be a stuck piston in its bore a solenoid went south, something along those lines.

How much have you driven it? Enough to purge all the air out?

Trans codes would be extremely helpful
So would watching live data as you drive

You can watch the pcm communal shifts via the trans solenoids and see how the trans responds, this can help narrow down your issue

 

[Jonah411]

The short filter is for rwd
The long filter is for 4wd

Do you have the correct filter installed?
You cannot run the short filter in a 4wd

The cooler lines are not under pressure no not when the truck is not running

I have a 2wd. The filter that came in the truck (I bought it new), has the long nose filter. I removed it myself and I have put the new long one back in it again. I raised it up and check the fluid again to be sure. Nothing came out this time , prob cause it was at a slant. I let it down and let it come out the drain hole til it dripped. Went through the gears like the manual said and it drove off fine in 1st and it wouldn’t go into 2nd on my road. I shifter from D to 1 2 3 and there wasn’t any feeling of engagement or disengagement from what D felt like. I then took off in D and it felt like it had no power or brakes were on. This is crazy. The truck has 256,000 miles and I should not be even messing with it anymore. It was running fine and shifting fine and the fluid was perfect when draining it. I’ve never had any problems or ever put fluid in it , in 20 yrs !!! The fluid was like new and it’s hard to believe after all of the stories I have heard and read about. I feel like it’s getting the best of me. On another note , now I hear what sounds like the torque converter when I am in P or N and when I cut it off. Like a rattling noise of some sort. Like a quick Klank Klank Klank. I’m stumped once again.

 

[Jonah411]

Okay I re read, sounds like you eventually got the correct deep sump 4wd filter installed

With then short filter in there you can cause cavitation (trans pump runs out of fluid and caviates on pockets of air), this could have caused your current issue

Fluid changes, wrong filter for a bit, sitting dry, could easily be a stuck piston in its bore a solenoid went south, something along those lines.

How much have you driven it? Enough to purge all the air out?

Trans codes would be extremely helpful
So would watching live data as you drive

You can watch the pcm communal shifts via the trans solenoids and see how the trans responds, this can help narrow down your issue

I’ve driven it as much as I can without it breaking down. I don’t want to be stuck on side of road. It seems to get worse as I try to get into 2nd. The rpms rise as I try brake Prob the sensors not relaying info. My scanner won’t read trans I don’t think. I can do live data. Maybe I can try that and see.

 

[CallMeSyd]

I feel for you. Chasing transmission issues is the worst. The over filling thing and it working better actually sounds to me like the filter isn't picking up fluid at the correct level, as if possibly there's an o ring missing on top of the filter so the pickup isn't working until the fluid is actually above filter level. Flare from first to second is almost always a worn overdrive servo bore or broken servo. The overdrive servo issues always come with a P0775 code and usually a P0732, and if you're lucky enough to get up to speed to where it realizes you've lost overdrive, P0735. If you are having a line pressure issue, it could cause all types of issues, and also could be due to a fluid pickup or air sucking into pickup issue. A pressure test kit would be handy for diagnostics, but they're not a common tool for the average Joe. You can get a gauge or set from harbor freight or there's a nice OCT set on Amazon that I usually recommend, but it's more money spent. Servo and fluid pickup issues are what immediately come to mind reading about your issues, but not having good diagnostic gear for such issues isn't great. This is one of those times when you need to decide how much you really like this vehicle and are ready to continue the madness. I recommend you join my Facebook group where I spend most of my time helping people with stuff like this. I have lots of good files and info on there covering these issues, as well as my administrative team of 3rd gen Explorer experts and professional mechanics. I only check this site every once in a while but I'm on there every day. Ford Explorers 3rd Generation Facebook

 

[leadfootdriver]

That would be great if it was an unseated Filter.. I recently changed mine and 1 Seal stayed in the trans when I removed it. Actually, the Filter fell out when I didn't have a grip on it and fell into my Drain Pan and splashed Fluid everywhere.. LOL
BUT, I had to pry the 1 Seal out before I installed the new Filter, so I know for sure it was installed correctly.

 

[Jonah411]

I feel for you. Chasing transmission issues is the worst. The over filling thing and it working better actually sounds to me like the filter isn't picking up fluid at the correct level, as if possibly there's an o ring missing on top of the filter so the pickup isn't working until the fluid is actually above filter level. Flare from first to second is almost always a worn overdrive servo bore or broken servo. The overdrive servo issues always come with a P0775 code and usually a P0732, and if you're lucky enough to get up to speed to where it realizes you've lost overdrive, P0735. If you are having a line pressure issue, it could cause all types of issues, and also could be due to a fluid pickup or air sucking into pickup issue. A pressure test kit would be handy for diagnostics, but they're not a common tool for the average Joe. You can get a gauge or set from harbor freight or there's a nice OCT set on Amazon that I usually recommend, but it's more money spent. Servo and fluid pickup issues are what immediately come to mind reading about your issues, but not having good diagnostic gear for such issues isn't great. This is one of those times when you need to decide how much you really like this vehicle and are ready to continue the madness. I recommend you join my Facebook group where I spend most of my time helping people with stuff like this. I have lots of good files and info on there covering these issues, as well as my administrative team of 3rd gen Explorer experts and professional mechanics. I only check this site every once in a while but I'm on there every day. Ford Explorers 3rd Generation Facebook

That is well said and well appreciated first and foremost. I do appreciate your time and willingness to help out and save time money and pain to many guys out in internet land. It means a lot.

I really don’t know where to go from here to be honest. I’m thinking the truck means a ton more to me than it’s worth. I’m aware of that totally. The other hand to replace it would cost me $3000~$5000 and possibly have to deal with this again on another explorer. The prices of vehicles also makes it harder to put her down. So I think I have to get this one running right.

If I’m hearing this klanking sound while in gear that’s not engaged and when I cut it off. Makes me feel like the TC has come loose again and the nuts have backed off somehow. I’d think that would cause low pressure or shifting issues. I think I start by removing the starter and seeing if they are tight and I can rule that out. Or find and fix a problem.

Maybe by the trans sitting dry and fluids being removed that it did cause it to act up and I can throw a few hundred at the servos and bores possibly and the solenoid pack and valve body. I hate to keep dropping the pan and adding 5-6 qts each time. Eventho I can store it clean but always chance for contamination etc. Also I have destroyed my shop floor and many other things with all this fluid mess.

Or do I pull the tranny , take it to a repair shop and take one without a kiss or flowers !! After all the videos on this trans id think I could rebuild it. But the piece of mind and confidence would be lacking.

I ran the codes again and just the o2 sensors were throwing 5 codes and the others were related to those codes. Cleared them and the same ones come back , so really I don’t have any codes at this point. 02 sensors aren’t installed now. Hence the codes.

What the going rate for a trans rebuild and upgraded parts etc ? My father n law paid $1600 for his 5r55s but they pulled it and installed it. Seems like it would be much less that that. I’m at a stand still and hate it !! Thanks

 

[Jonah411]

That would be great if it was an unseated Filter.. I recently changed mine and 1 Seal stayed in the trans when I removed it. Actually, the Filter fell out when I didn't have a grip on it and fell into my Drain Pan and splashed Fluid everywhere.. LOL
BUT, I had to pry the 1 Seal out before I installed the new Filter, so I know for sure it was installed correctly.

I checked and double checked the orings. They are more like plastic seals.

 

[Jonah411]

Would this tester be one that would be sufficient? I have compression and misc air gauge testers. But seems like I would need more of an inline tester / gauge. With the fittings for the trans or the cooler etc. Or could I put a gauge in the middle of the two (using hose cooler lines ). I’d think that would give me a reading. Not sure that the psi rating should be. What would this tell me ? I have low pressure ? Then I’d be back in the pump again ? Which I removed , checked and replaced the gears and all was fine. I think it’s something small that I am missing or the dern servo like several have stated. Just hate to throw money at it if it’s not gonna fix it. It all points there tho !! 1-2 delayed high rpm shift then triggers the O/D light and no O/D.

Only codes I got after my last debacle of a ride was just the 02 sensors and misfires. I’m aware of the sensors causing those. I have the exhaust and sensors all back off the truck and out of my way, in case the trans is gonna come out or servos replaced. It’s so loud it’s pathetic. I’m at a stand still at this point. Just waiting for that feeling that I know the problem and solution !! Haha

I feel for you. Chasing transmission issues is the worst. The over filling thing and it working better actually sounds to me like the filter isn't picking up fluid at the correct level, as if possibly there's an o ring missing on top of the filter so the pickup isn't working until the fluid is actually above filter level. Flare from first to second is almost always a worn overdrive servo bore or broken servo. The overdrive servo issues always come with a P0775 code and usually a P0732, and if you're lucky enough to get up to speed to where it realizes you've lost overdrive, P0735. If you are having a line pressure issue, it could cause all types of issues, and also could be due to a fluid pickup or air sucking into pickup issue. A pressure test kit would be handy for diagnostics, but they're not a common tool for the average Joe. You can get a gauge or set from harbor freight or there's a nice OCT set on Amazon that I usually recommend, but it's more money spent. Servo and fluid pickup issues are what immediately come to mind reading about your issues, but not having good diagnostic gear for such issues isn't great. This is one of those times when you need to decide how much you really like this vehicle and are ready to continue the madness. I recommend you join my Facebook group where I spend most of my time helping people with stuff like this. I have lots of good files and info on there covering these issues, as well as my administrative team of 3rd gen Explorer experts and professional mechanics. I only check this site every once in a while but I'm on there every day. Ford Explorers 3rd Generation Facebook

 

[410Fortune]

Reman is about $1800-2400 if they r and r the trans too

You maybe able to get down around $1000 if you drop it off and pick it up, but that won’t include a road test and warranty for labor

You can always get a good used one and go that route, from a reputable seller
I do this option a lot we put many trucks back on the road by finding good low mile late model trans and install

You should have a drain port in your pan now so iou can catch the fluid and re use it. Run it through a simple paint funnel/ filter
The filter inside the trans will catch anything else that gets passed
When we work on our own autos this is necessary because Mercon v is $$$$$

We also keep flor dry in the shop to clean up the inevitable messes

 

[Jonah411]

Sounds good. I don’t know who to trust. I get hosed on motors all the time. If I could get one for $350-$400 I’d pull this one and throw another on it. Easy peezy compared to what I have dealt with already !! Most of the time the trans are out and for sale , cause they are bad already. Can’t see inside them and I’d hate to install it and then remove if it’s bad. I’m wondering if my TC bolts have gotten loose again and causing the shift issue and the clank after I turn off the motor. Thank you you for the info. Much appreciated !

 

[410Fortune]

Get one from a reputable seller! Like local wrecker or eBay or somebody like me off craigslist. I would never ever never sell a questionable trans… only known good ones / tested but I deal on Craig’s and Facebook daily so I have a. Reputation to hold up

I sell them $600-1200 depending on year and miles. Some of the biggest wreckers in the country sell on eBay and eBay protects you

 

[CallMeSyd]

That is well said and well appreciated first and foremost. I do appreciate your time and willingness to help out and save time money and pain to many guys out in internet land. It means a lot.

I really don’t know where to go from here to be honest. I’m thinking the truck means a ton more to me than it’s worth. I’m aware of that totally. The other hand to replace it would cost me $3000~$5000 and possibly have to deal with this again on another explorer. The prices of vehicles also makes it harder to put her down. So I think I have to get this one running right.

If I’m hearing this klanking sound while in gear that’s not engaged and when I cut it off. Makes me feel like the TC has come loose again and the nuts have backed off somehow. I’d think that would cause low pressure or shifting issues. I think I start by removing the starter and seeing if they are tight and I can rule that out. Or find and fix a problem.

Maybe by the trans sitting dry and fluids being removed that it did cause it to act up and I can throw a few hundred at the servos and bores possibly and the solenoid pack and valve body. I hate to keep dropping the pan and adding 5-6 qts each time. Eventho I can store it clean but always chance for contamination etc. Also I have destroyed my shop floor and many other things with all this fluid mess.

Or do I pull the tranny , take it to a repair shop and take one without a kiss or flowers !! After all the videos on this trans id think I could rebuild it. But the piece of mind and confidence would be lacking.

I ran the codes again and just the o2 sensors were throwing 5 codes and the others were related to those codes. Cleared them and the same ones come back , so really I don’t have any codes at this point. 02 sensors aren’t installed now. Hence the codes.

What the going rate for a trans rebuild and upgraded parts etc ? My father n law paid $1600 for his 5r55s but they pulled it and installed it. Seems like it would be much less that that. I’m at a stand still and hate it !! Thanks

I'm not seeing what tester or gauge you're referring to. Air gauges will not work. I've been all through these trans and they're not difficult to rebuild. They're a single stack. It's a lot like those toys when you were a kid with the colored rings that were different sizes and you had to stack them on the little stick base starting with the largest at the bottom and smallest at the top. Except for grown ups. Follow the stack procedure and as long as you are fairly mechanically inclined you'll be fine. Most times you get in there and most of everything is in great shape. Usually the problem with these trans doesn't require any rebuild or anything at all. I would say 95% of issues with these is servos (majority), solenoids, or valve body. I would never buy a replacement transmission or send it off for rebuild knowing how easy it is to fix. OD servo fix is about $180 for the part last I checked. All of this info, common issue and diagnostics write ups, full transmission service guide, full rebuild guide, including pressure test procedure, fully detailed and illustrated with every single piece and every specification, every possible detail about your transmission in my Facebook group for download, for free. Not to mention access to detailed info on virtually every inch of the vehicle itself. I'm really trying my best here...

 

[410Fortune]

We appreciate it!

 

[Jonah411]

I'm not seeing what tester or gauge you're referring to. Air gauges will not work. I've been all through these trans and they're not difficult to rebuild. They're a single stack. It's a lot like those toys when you were a kid with the colored rings that were different sizes and you had to stack them on the little stick base starting with the largest at the bottom and smallest at the top. Except for grown ups. Follow the stack procedure and as long as you are fairly mechanically inclined you'll be fine. Most times you get in there and most of everything is in great shape. Usually the problem with these trans doesn't require any rebuild or anything at all. I would say 95% of issues with these is servos (majority), solenoids, or valve body. I would never buy a replacement transmission or send it off for rebuild knowing how easy it is to fix. OD servo fix is about $180 for the part last I checked. All of this info, common issue and diagnostics write ups, full transmission service guide, full rebuild guide, including pressure test procedure, fully detailed and illustrated with every single piece and every specification, every possible detail about your transmission in my Facebook group for download, for free. Not to mention access to detailed info on virtually every inch of the vehicle itself. I'm really trying my best here...

Thank you very much !! I believe I was accepted in the Facebook group. I went straight there the 1st time you mentioned it. I am all about good detailed info and the truth is the most important thing when it comes to used transmissions. Trust ! I feel like it’s gotta be the dern servo or bore or both. I tried adjusting the bands, it seemed worse, but then it sat for a few hours, started it up and off she went, pulling great in drive and reverse. Still long delay 1-2, feels like 1-3 honestl, like its bypassing 2nd. Them O/D light comes on. I was driving it pretty hard up a hill a few hours ago and it just cut off and no response to the key or pedal. I just knew I was stuck. After a hour or so checking things , I eventually unhooked all 4 o2 sensors and that didn’t help. My obd2 port kept showing ERROR on both of my scanners. After checking all the stuff I fooled with , I found a fuse #41 that popped. I replaced it and it started up and the port was now working again. I borrowed a fuse from another location and I was capped at 50mph exactly and there was no shift delays. Felt like I started in 3rd or 4th gear and power was lacking. I tried to hammer it again and it popped the fuse again. Changed it out and made it home. I’m confused with the fuse blowing from heavy acceleration or high rpm’s.

I don’t feel like I am making any progress , just preparing for something bad to happen.

Should I contact syd for a possible cheap trans ? Start with the Servo 1st and or bore too. ? Then see what happens and if need be , price a rebuilt kit ?

 

[Jonah411]

I think I stated all my codes (5) of them were all 02 sensor related. Those should dissolve once I have exhaust back in. That’s 4 and the 5th was 0106 , which talks about the MAP, but I am pretty certain there isn’t a MAP, but a MAF tho. Engine dies when it’s unhooked. I assume the MAF is good !