Solved - 700R4 Trans and D300 T-Case Swap? | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Solved 700R4 Trans and D300 T-Case Swap?

Prefix for threads that contain problems that have been resolved, and there is an answer within the thread.
"e.g. use the converter bolts to pull the converter to the flexplate"

Ut oh, what did I do wrong? This is how my A4LD and 4r70w have been installed, this is how I was told to install them both by the builders.

Stab the converter completely into the pump, raise trans, stab trans, bolt bellhousing to engine, then converter slides forward when you rotate the crank and tighten down the converter to flywheel bolts.

is this no bueno? seems to have worked fine??
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





As I learned from BowTie (when we were doing the install)..

Install the converter.. stab the trans.. Then measure the distance between flexplate and converter.. Then slide converter flush with flexplate.. Then bolt it in.. If you use the bolts to pull it you may pull it in at a slight angle (we "think" that might have happened on one of my installs) which will crack the snout of the converter.. if it cracks, and pieces break off, they can end up in the pump. BTW.. the measuring the distance between the converter and flexplate is so you can double check it is within spec..

~Mark
 






wow, are you sure that applies to all automatics? My Ford builder has been doing this for many many years and so have the guys at Transwerx who did my A4LD.

Both of them described the method I used, and I have used it about 8 times now and it has worked fine every single time.

I cannot imagine trying to get the splined shaft into the converter hub with it already on the flyweel...but then I never tried.
 






Thats the info I got from them (bowtie) , and I asked a neighbor (works at a local repair shop) he said the same thing.. once the trans is bolted to the block, slide the converter forward, then bolt it.. don't use the bolts to pull it..

both knew I was bolting a 700r4, so.. maybe the procedure is different on the a4ld..



Edit.
I did some surfing on the net and I do seem to see this listed all over the place....

When bolting converter to flexplate, push converter back into transmission and measure gap between flexplate and converter. The converter will need a minimum clearance of 1/8", and maximum clearance of 3/16". The converter will need to pull out of the transmission to the flexplate.

~Mark
 






I just re-read what you wrote.. and I think we are saying the same thing...

Put the converter into the trans.. get it seated all the way.. stab the trans into the block.. Then slide the converter forward to the flexplate, then bolt..

You do not bolt the converter to the flexplate first, before stabbing the trans..

What I'm saying (and what I was told) is once the trans is stabbed, don't slide the converter to the flexplate by pulling on it using the converter bolts (which are pretty short anyway)..

~Mark
 






ah okay I understand, I pulled the converter forward by hand then finger tighten the bolt, trun the crank, do the next until all 4 bolts are torqued to the proper spec, I think I went around 3 times last time I did this.

Both the A4LD and 4r70w pulled forward about 1/4" or a little more and the bolts were long enough to go through the flexplate, in fact you have to line them up before you can fully seat the trans on the engine.
 






Thanks Mark. I did find out by talking to a few different transmission rebuilders that the spring in the TV system only adjusts the hardness and timing of the shifts, and has nothing to do with engaging the forward gears. So there must be something else wrong too. Something in the front hub assembly.
 






One other important thing the spring controls.. Line pressure.. If it doesn't bring up the pressure fast enough, you will be putting too much torque to the transmission with not enough line pressure.. As I understand it.. that causes burned clutches and other nasty things.

~Mark
 






Maniak said:
One other important thing the spring controls.. Line pressure.. If it doesn't bring up the pressure fast enough, you will be putting too much torque to the transmission with not enough line pressure.. As I understand it.. that causes burned clutches and other nasty things.

~Mark
Correct, but it does not control the forward gears, which was what Bowtie told me the problem was with the transmission. I did enough research on 700R4 conversions to know I did not want to attempt this in my garage, but enough to educate myself on how the transmission functions, and how the install is supposed to go.
 






Okay, got the transmission back yesterday and it should be going back in today of Monday. Keep your fingers crossed for me...........hope it works.
 






If you have the spot for it.. You can hook one of these up to keep an eye on the transmission.. I got the 350 PSI version.. This way if the TV cable has a problem (breaks etc) I will catch it before it blows the the transmission.

http://www.egauges.com/vdo_mult.asp?Type=Elec_Engine_Pressure&Series=Industrial_Black&Cart=

I also added one of these (put the sender in the pan)... http://www.egauges.com/vdo_ind.asp?Type=Trans_Oil_Temp&Series=EVM-R&PN=R6859R&Cart=1

BowTie says to pull over if your temp gets over 150.. BUT in summer my pan temp can be 130 even before I start the truck.. The highest I've seen my pan temp get to is 195, in stop/go traffic in town in 105F+ temps.. I use synthetic trans fluid and when I changed it (5k miles after I installed this trans) the fluid didn't smell burnt and was still bright red. I am using 2 coolers, a stack style and a fin style, combined GVWR of those 2 cooler comes out to be about 30k.

~Mark
 






BKennedy said:
Okay, got the transmission back yesterday and it should be going back in today of Monday. Keep your fingers crossed for me...........hope it works.
So is it going to make it to TH on New Years, or do you work that weekend?
 






I pretty much have to work from now until next year. I have Christmas Eve and New Years Day off, but that is all. I wish I could come out anyway, I need a break.
 






BKennedy said:
I pretty much have to work from now until next year. I have Christmas Eve and New Years Day off, but that is all. I wish I could come out anyway, I need a break.
Well then I sure hope you don't come down with the flu or something right around New Years, that would just be terrible!
 






I already projected my sick days for next month! :D

Anyone want my old BW transfer case for a spare before it gets thrown away (if it hasn't been already)??
 






BKennedy said:
I already projected my sick days for next month! :D

Anyone want my old BW transfer case for a spare before it gets thrown away (if it hasn't been already)??

Im sure bill could use another one sitting around his house :D I could use it as well for doing some mock up work I am trying to figure out if you still have it laying around.
 






RockRanger said:
Im sure bill could use another one sitting around his house :D I could use it as well for doing some mock up work I am trying to figure out if you still have it laying around.
I will call TAG and see if they still have it. If they do, you can stop by and pick it up, unless my Ex is finished sometime this year... :p
 












BKennedy said:
I will call TAG and see if they still have it. If they do, you can stop by and pick it up, unless my Ex is finished sometime this year... :p

Let me know and I will grab it if it hasnt made its way to the dumpster.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











Back
Top