89 Super cab with a 4.0 swap

[RowdyFitz]

New update, since swapping the injectors my fuel mileage has dropped to 11mpg. I suspect the culprit to me the leaking gasket at the collector by the O2 sensor. I’ll replace and reassess. If that’s not the problem then I’ll buy remanufactured injectors. The exhaust doesn’t smell bad anymore so I imagine it’s the O2 sensor getting fresh air when it shouldn’t. I might hit the parts store tomorrow since I have the day off. It would save me more in fuel to replace the gasket now then waiting until I get home.

 

[410Fortune]

Make sure you do not have a stuck open injector just dumping fuel into your crank case oil

Mileage should not get worse with new injector install!!! Should at least stay the same

 

[RowdyFitz]

Make sure you do not have a stuck open injector just dumping fuel into your crank case oil

Mileage should not get worse with new injector install!!! Should at least stay the same

Thanks, I think that’s what my problem was before. I put used injectors in that I cleaned. My exhaust smelled horrible but now that I replaced the passenger side injectors it fixed the exhaust smell. It’s running great now but my fuel mileage isn’t that good. I replaced the exhaust gasket and found out the O2 sensor was loose. My mileage bumped back up to 15 mpg so that’s cool but it’s still not the 18mpg that I got right after cleaning the injectors the first time. I also changed the oil last week so that’s good now. I will check the oil in the morning to see if it smells like gas since you said it. I haven’t checked it since I replaced the injectors.

 

[RowdyFitz]

I checked the oil that day and the oil is free of gas as far as I can smell. After that the fuel mileage dropped to 10mpg and I got a CEL. It said there was an issue with the A/C switch and the IAT was faulty. I replaced the IAT and plugged the AC pressure switch back in, the fuel mileage came back up to 14mpg. I’m going to mess with it tomorrow and try to figure out what’s going on.

Also, I’m going to try my hand at installing a wood stove in my garage so wish me luck that I don’t burn it down lol.

 

[410Fortune]

Nice!!

I have installed quite a few wood stoves and chimney systems! They can be fun, all in an effort to save $$$$!!

If you are looking at reasons for your mpg drop consider checking a few things like brake drag and tire pressures, every once in a while I like to make sure my truck still rolls easily this can help discover any brake issues
Also putting truck up in air and check the rotating assemblies and for any looseness (shake down test) any bearing issues, brake drag, or alignment/ front end problems can result in crappy mpg

 

[RowdyFitz]

Thank you! I actually just went through the front end again this past week. The DS U-joint caps are spinning in the yolks and I have a new crack in the bottom of the beam just inside of the diff where it narrows hard then bends. I will add some .25” plate to reinforce it next time I pull it in the garage.

Yesterday I started troubleshooting the wiring gremlins that I’ve been ignoring. I figured out why the cargo and dome lights weren’t working. When the PO did the dash swap, he missed the grey connector that was behind the fuse box. My reverse lights still aren’t working due to a short between the ground wire and the power wire. They both had power when I charged the positive wire.

I replaced the IAT sensor the other day so that code went away. Now I’m getting 2 codes, one saying the neutral safety switch is open and a 95 code for the O2 sensor, saying it’s reading constantly lean. I’m willing to bet that is the poor fuel mileage issue now. As an experiment I pulled the O2 sensor and cleaned it up on the wire wheel, then cleaned the connectors with electrical cleaner. It was fairly grimey and it had a lot of ash built up on the sensor. I doubt it will make a difference but I decided to see if it would help. I have a new sensor in my tool box.

Come tax return time, I think about installing D44 knuckles to get rid of the crappy D35 knuckles. I’m having trouble getting the spindle nuts to stay tight and not over tightening the bearings because the lock ring and the inner nut are spinning as I tighten the outer nut. Plus I already blew up one hub and the D44 will be stronger. Along with that, I’m probably gonna buy chromoly shafts and new U-joints.

I also still need to install the king coil overs that I bought 2 years ago, build rock sliders and a grill guard. Then I’ll probably be done for a while. That is until I decide to just SAS it and install a doubler... I have half ton and one ton axles here at the house so I could go either way. I will probably go one tons since I won’t ever hurt those with this Ranger lol.

 

[410Fortune]

The lock ring washer must fit tightly in the spindle groove! Many of those
Lock washers have/allow 1/16 of play side to side when in the groove. No good! You can actually add some material w welder then file them down for a better fit. That back and forth of the 1/16 allows the outer jamb nut to come loose over time. Also the spindles like to ***** up their threads right where the lock washer rides. When this happens I install a better spindle (I collected a bunch of them because they no longer produce d and they want $300 for one)
Fixing that lock washer issue and using a double thick jam nut I don’t have any bearing issues not in years. My d35 beams and cut and turned I have 4.1 and arb locker I run 97 ranger outers w dual piston calipers and I run on 35’s

 

[410Fortune]

What are your codes? Maybe the 02 sensor is reading lean, check fuel pressure and also look for any intake or exhaust leaks

 

[RowdyFitz]

The lock ring washer must fit tightly in the spindle groove! Many of those
Lock washers have/allow 1/16 of play side to side when in the groove. No good! You can actually add some material w welder then file them down for a better fit. That back and forth of the 1/16 allows the outer jamb nut to come loose over time. Also the spindles like to ***** up their threads right where the lock washer rides. When this happens I install a better spindle (I collected a bunch of them because they no longer produce d and they want $300 for one)
Fixing that lock washer issue and using a double thick jam nut I don’t have any bearing issues not in years. My d35 beams and cut and turned I have 4.1 and arb locker I run 97 ranger outers w dual piston calipers and I run on 35’s

Yep that’s my problem. The inner nut will turn upwards of 1/2” when I tighten the outer nut. Instead of trying to polish a problem, I think I’ll just upgrade it.

What are your codes? Maybe the 02 sensor is reading lean, check fuel pressure and also look for any intake or exhaust leaks

I’m getting the codes 41 and 67. I said 95 earlier but I mis spoke, that was due to the fact that I disconnected the inertia switch to replace the fuel filter then forgot to plug it in afterwards.

 

[RowdyFitz]

Well I had to replace the rear wheel seals and axle bearings. It started leaking so I went ahead and replaced both sides. The gears looked good and there was pretty much no metal on the differential magnets. Then my daughter helped me replace the o2 sensor and put the street tires back on. I was hoping the new o2 sensor would fix my fuel mileage but it didn’t. Next thing is to test the fuel pressure. I have a hunch it’s bleeding off due to a faulty fuel pressure regulator even though it’s a new regulator. Unless it’s the pump that’s bad.

 

[410Fortune]

No check valve in the pump
The little orange sock on the end of the return line is responsible for holding pressure in the system… it has never held pressure for me very long and for many year I ran my truck without one… pressure drops to zero basically instantly.. but truck starts runs and drives just fine

 

[RowdyFitz]

No check valve in the pump
The little orange sock on the end of the return line is responsible for holding pressure in the system… it has never held pressure for me very long and for many year I ran my truck without one… pressure drops to zero basically instantly.. but truck starts runs and drives just fine

Thank you, I just ordered a new sending unit since my fuel gauge isn’t working anymore.

 

[RowdyFitz]

This week I blew up the other warn hub and swapped out the rear springs for 6” lift springs. It feels weird to drive it now with a 2” rake.
I blew the hub off while turning around on an old mine road. It was basically flat ground but I think I ran over a rock while backing up. I heard a pop but thought it was just the locker popping lol. Then a couple miles later I felt the back end spin on a hill climb when it shouldn’t have.

I did manage to pull an F-250 out of a mud hole, with the blown hub though! Lol
He tried to drive over a frozen mud hole but didn’t make it. The little Ranger pulled him out on the first try.

 

[RowdyFitz]

Well this week was a mess lol.
The wife had to come save me by bringing me my winch. But the winch wouldn’t work, I think the cheap Chinese power cables are corroded internally.

So we used the wife’s super duty to pull it out. In the process of pulling it out, I broke the synthetic winch rope. But after this I thought the wheel bearings or the axle shaft bearing in the spindle were full of mud. Turned out to be a rock in the passenger caliper grinding on the rotor lol. But I pulled the passenger axle and greased the U-joints while I had it apart. Luckily I thought ahead last time I replaced U-joints and kept the old ones for parts. I had 1 busted cap and a bunch of shattered needle bearings in the others. I was able to replace the broken parts and greased them to get me by. I’m probably going to do a 1 ton SAS on it this summer. I just need to buy gears and lockers.