a4ld to Manual M50D Swap How-to

[gmanpaint]

What exactly involves in the clutch alignment tool?

I have a wiring diagram for the wiring harness, can anyone help me with it? I don't have a manual wiring harness for the tranny, but got a donor harness to pull plugs from if needed : http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v663/nikbait/42370731.gif

Is it going to be much easier to bench bleed the master cylinder before installing it? And, how would I take out the pushrod on the mc to bleed the mc? The video I saw on here that shows bench bleeding says not to use the pushrod to bleed.

Alignment tool just fits inside the clutch, then slides the entire assembly onto the engine, holding it in place while you bolt it up.

As for the trans harness, I wouldn't do this swap without the manual harness. That's just me tho.

You really really want to bench (bench just meaning out of the vehicle) bleed the master. Matter of fact, you want to bleed the entire assembly at the same time, with it stretched out. They say not to use the rod as it is half plastic, and you might bend/break it. If you don't want to remove it, hold the rod at the base (where it is metal), and carefully bleed it until you cant move it by hand anymore.

If your using a used set up, drain all the old fluids and flush it out with new dot3 fluid. If you have a new set up, skip this part.

I Drained all the old fluids by taking it apart at the fitting. Be careful, there is a little O-ring there, don't lose it!

Put it back together, & Hang the entire assembly to a post. Fill the reservoir, leaving the cap off. Tap the line from the bottom up to help move any trapped air bubbles. Then start to bleed by pushing the the plunger slowly back and forth until it will barely move anymore. Any air trapped inside will bubble up & out of the reservoir.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Ok. Well, we got pretty far on the swap today. Just didnt have time to take pics. Have to put on the starter, exhaust, front driveline, and the wiring harness put together.

 

[pteepee69]

I am currently in the process of doing this swap, but I am wondering about the wiring harness. I am currently removing the kickdown cable, shifter cable and started to remove the auto harness. What I am looking at is this, The wiring harness runs under the plenum and is connected to the vapor purge solenoid and goes under the motor and is connected to looks like oil sending unit and somthing else in the side of the oil pan. Before I remove this all the way, does the manual wiring harness have all of these multiple connections?

 

[snoranger]

I am currently in the process of doing this swap, but I am wondering about the wiring harness. I am currently removing the kickdown cable, shifter cable and started to remove the auto harness. What I am looking at is this, The wiring harness runs under the plenum and is connected to the vapor purge solenoid and goes under the motor and is connected to looks like oil sending unit and somthing else in the side of the oil pan. Before I remove this all the way, does the manual wiring harness have all of these multiple connections?

You dont need to change the whole harness. Just the section down to the trans. There is a connector near the back of the engine.

 

[pteepee69]

On my '94 the plugs from the tranny that were disconnected I don't have a connector, it is one solid harness. It goes under the plenum, connects to the vap purge solenoid, comes out the front of plenum, down to front of motor connects to something, runs to back of oil pan and connects to something, and then goes to main harness under vap canister on driver side fender. I have followed this wire from one end to the other and there is no connector.

 

[gmanpaint]

Its there. It is behind the engine, on top of the trans bell housing. Look again

 

[pteepee69]

I have got the harness pulled almost completely out and there is no connector.

 

[snoranger]

All '94 XL, XLT, and Eddie Bauers use the same harness. The only '94 Ex that uses a different harness is the Limited. I have done this swap on a '94 Limited and a '94 XLT, both of them had a separate trans harness.

 

[pteepee69]

Did one have a connector at the top of the bell housing and one did not? I know what I am looking at as far as my project goes. It is a solid harness from the transmission to the connectors under the vapor canister. I bought my Explorer about two years ago. What all has been done to it is anybodies guess? To me it doesn't appear that the harness has been spliced or the connector removed. It looks factory.

 

[pteepee69]

Something I just tried with some extra bolts that I have, correct me if I'm wrong. The pressure plate to flywheel bolts are M8-1.25 x 20mm. I haven't made it to the pull a part yet, so I don't have the bolts from a donor. And since it is metric you would want to use a grade 10.9.

 

[pteepee69]

Made it to pull a part today and got some of my parts;shifter plate, shifter boot, wiring harness, brake and clutch pedal assembly, manual computer. Best thing they came out of a '94 Explorer. $60 for all. I have a stupid question. The flexplate and flexplate spacer from the auto, when installing the manual flywheel do I remove the spacer or leave it in?

 

[snoranger]

Made it to pull a part today and got some of my parts;shifter plate, shifter boot, wiring harness, brake and clutch pedal assembly, manual computer. Best thing they came out of a '94 Explorer. $60 for all. I have a stupid question. The flexplate and flexplate spacer from the auto, when installing the manual flywheel do I remove the spacer or leave it in?

Get rid of it. Its only used on the auto.

 

[pteepee69]

Thanks. Wasn't for sure about that one.

 

[Naasau]

As for the harness connections, I just pulled a manual from a 1992 in the yard, and discovered that the harness is indeed one piece from the tranny connectors, all the way up to the oil pressure and low oil sensor lights, with the two conectors popping off over by the wiper fluid bottles on the driver's side.

Before you ask, yes I'm sure, and it was a 1992 red XLT. I have the harness and the tranny now, so I can post pics if you guys want. It seemed a bit odd to me, since my 1993 auto has the connector above the bellhousing, but there it is.

 

[Naasau]

Update: The two plugs (8 pins, one black one gray) do indeed just plug right in to the auto harness, and instead of messing around with pulling the two block sensors, I just cut the wires, then soldered and shrink wrapped em in to the 'new' harness. The colors (white/pink and white/red) even matched up once I got em clean.

 

[Naasau]

Also, useful info: the pedal assembly casting that is bolted to the firewall is Identical between the auto and manual! The only thing needed to swap are the brake & clutch pedal, with their associated bushings, etc.

So don't be like me and discover this fact after you remove the whole dash assembly.

 

[FordRanger04]

nice thread but has anyone done this on a 2nd gen?

X2 ... I agree, it's a really nice thread.

Is everying similiar to a 2001-2003 Explorer Sport?

 

[IAmTodd]

Also, useful info: the pedal assembly casting that is bolted to the firewall is Identical between the auto and manual! The only thing needed to swap are the brake & clutch pedal, with their associated bushings, etc.

So don't be like me and discover this fact after you remove the whole dash assembly.

If I were to ever do this again I think I'd pull the dash. Trying to slide the clutch pedal in is EXTREMELY difficult. Obviously not impossible, but not fun my any means.

 

[jakegator]

Im not doing this for a while but thought id ask my question while its sorta fresh! Im confused on the ecu, i have a 92 so if i get a manual 92 ecu, the only wiring that needs changed is the ecu to the trans correct? Is there a down side to a used ecu, i just ask cause it essentially free? hanks everyone, great thread btw!

 

[IAmTodd]

The harness runs from the trans to just under the brake master cylinder. There's two round plugs. I have a harness if you need one, just send me a couple bucks for shipping.

The ECU is best to match up to your year. Although I think 91-92 are the same? Not sure on that. You can run the truck on the auto ECU as I have for the past 2200 with really no side effects. I do plan on finding the proper one at some point.