AWD Burn Out

[kaylene]

I dont see how a mexican block can be stronger then what u have know , I think if the motor is but together the right way with good internals and good tunig, it should be aple to put at least 490 to the wheels with no problem and hold the power ,And as far the mexican block having more nicle conten as a production block thats a wifes tells,
With that much power u should be able to run at least a high 11s ,and if u stall the truck to 2800 and at least get a 1.7 short time u should be able to run mid 11s under the right condition

 

[justin146]

I dont see how a mexican block can be stronger then what u have know , I think if the motor is but together the right way with good internals and good tunig, it should be aple to put at least 490 to the wheels with no problem and hold the power ,And as far the mexican block having more nicle conten as a production block thats a wifes tells,
With that much power u should be able to run at least a high 11s ,and if u stall the truck to 2800 and at least get a 1.7 short time u should be able to run mid 11s under the right condition

The Mexican block has thicker webbing at the mains- and this is the area the the newer blocks start to split.

 

[reserved50]

I was going to get a Mexican block but it has a split type seal? and need a special cam or lifters since it was origianlly meant for flat tappet cams. It wasnt going to push past maybe 450AWDHP with no detonation lol hopefully. Might be 20% stronger, beats me. Id rather buy the new "BOSS" Motorsport block, much better value I think.

 

[kaylene]

I think the boss block would be the way to go, put to me being the poor man, i may stick with the same block and push the engine to its limits and suffer the destruction of the block , Next seasons block will consist of a stock block .30over good pistons eagle, good rods eagle i beams , gt heads ported & polish by urs truly, ported lower intake, 1.6 roller rockers, trick flow stg 1 cam , 75mm tb, powerpipe home made, sct software and meter, stock injectors and a high dose of nitros 2 stages one 150shot the other 100shot and two bottles for each stage of nitros , same build trans and the same stall 3000 and the same torque monster headers and cat back , what do guys think, Im hoping for 11.70 times do u guys think is possible.

 

[reserved50]

Dont know if a main girdle will fit under the pan , but if it does explode it'll save the bottom end

 

[Turdle]

Dont know if a main girdle will fit under the pan , but if it does explode it'll save the bottom end

Only if you have one made.

 

[CDW6212R]

Only if you have one made.

Are you sure about that Jon, I thought that the pan would take normal 302 parts? I have my eye on a main girdle by Brother's, it comes with a windage tray for about $155 on eBay.

FYI, there is a trick new product which helps strengthen the stock blocks.

The weak part of the stock block with normal work and a girdle, is the top lifter valley, center. A company makes steel bars which run across the lifter valley and help to hold it together. For the roller 302 there are two, they bolt onto the center lifter spider bracket. You drill four holes, one at each end, straight down into the "ears" at the edge of the lifter valley there. Check out the link to them on eBay, interesting stuff.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...STRK:MEWA:IT&viewitem=&item=180196410627&rd=1

FYI, I found an 8-rub crank pulley for a 94/95 Mustang, Vortech $120 4FG018-031, 6.88" in size, black. Regards,

 

[Turdle]

Don-
No girdle in an explorer pan--sorry. It will need to be fabbed.

I also am intrigued by the lifter valley girdle-but looking closely at the design has me skeptical.
My reasoning, is this. The support bars look beefy yes-but the whole thing is only as strong as the pins holding it to the block. Would drilling the holes for those pins actually weaken the block and "cause" a crack?

http://www.nmraracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47626

 

[CDW6212R]

I called them and asked them about that. The ads that I ran across had two videos, one mentioned dowel pins. I wanted to know why they didn't use bolts.

The man told me that any threads, and a bolt, would create a stress point, a new place for a crack to begin. The pins are evidently very strong steel, not a cheap drift pin. The boss where the holes are made are not deep, and that is unused metal there. I'll do that for my stock block engine.

Jon, which pan do you have? I have an extra steel pan, plus an extra aluminum pan. Possibly one has more room in it. Do you know where the interference is, because I'll make it fit for the extra strength? Regards,

 

[Turdle]

OH!!!!
Can you get pictures and measurements to compare with pictures of my "clearanced" attempt?
Try to get an inside to inside measurement-of each.

A steel pan might work! It was close with the cast pan-

 

[CDW6212R]

What kind of P and M's, my steel pan is on the spare 97 engine, on the floor. I've heard that each is stronger than the other. If given a choice I'd want the aluminum pan, but I don't care much you know. Let's figure it out, but you aren't going to change your engine any time soon of course.

 

[Turdle]

What kind of P and M's, my steel pan is on the spare 97 engine, on the floor. I've heard that each is stronger than the other. If given a choice I'd want the aluminum pan, but I don't care much you know. Let's figure it out, but you aren't going to change your engine any time soon of course.

For this I would-it has been bothering me severely--

 

[CDW6212R]

Really, I thought that the aftermarket block would give a lot of peace of mind? I'd want it all also, but the $2000 minimum cost of a block is too much for me at the moment. There's a cracked Cleveland aluminum block on eBay right now, drool.

 

[reserved50]

I ran into a spare cast pan after it was in so I didnt bother checking, a shop had about 3 girdles in stock to mock up too, I also found out later there was a stamped pan. I dont think the lifter girdle does anything unless people can back up their claims, never bothered checking their site. I'd rather cement the bottom half of the block, then you might have minor cooling issues still. For now if I decided to crack the block I'd take out the front axle just for the hell of it if it does blow

 

[reserved50]

sexy time

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=9085

http://brothersperformance.com/newsletter/bossisback/

now that I think of it, I wonder if the damn caps will clear haha

 

[CDW6212R]

I'd like that, or the Dart block. If the Dart 4.125 block comes with 4" bores I'll likely choose that one. It has revised oiling and cooling, and max's out at 4.18 bores.
I've got a 4 bolt main 400 with screw in freeze plugs, would have made a Boss 408 out of it long ago.

 

[scruff]

I'd love to have a Dart alluminium block mmmm yum, especially with the six bolt heads, great for a turbo.
I am sure they're stupid expensive though. *cough* I just looked, they're just over $5000. ouch

 

[Turdle]

I found it!

Tommy Ivo-

Had a 4wd buick with an engine for each wheel--
I could only find a picture-but I have seen a video of this creation

 

[Redneck0907]

just turn the wheels and punch the fuel, i do it all the time and my 5.0 is completely stock with about 75% left on my wranglers.

 

[reserved50]

I can do it in the rain, and Im pretty sure I can make it spin like a top if I cranked the wheel after I re-stack the limited slip frictions in the diff (but this kind of defeats the purpose of AWD), but with my luck I'll just blow the transfer case, since its the only part I havent ####ed up .