AWD front driveshaft

[delexploder]

The difference is length , the one for the v6 will bolt up but it streches the cv and makes all sorts of vibration and noise before it breaks,

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Dorman 932-201 is the correct CV. I have installed one. It's really not too bad, just be aware of a few issues: 1 don't tip the joint more than maybe 10-15 degrees to one side or a bearing may slip out - not fun to try to put back in! 2 the strap that comes with it to tighten the boot is terrible to install and tends to cause tears in the boot over time - you are probably better off using a ziptie or nothing at all in my opinion 3 best to pre-install on a bench with the old bolts/clips. Pick up some nuts and put bolts through all six holes to get everything lined up correctly then tighten in a cross pattern to press the joint together with the cups. Otherwise you need extra hands to hold everything in place and the old bolts will barely reach the threads, the new ones (which I greatly prefer since they are hex keyed and much easier to install at angles than the shallow headed bolts) are shorter than the originals and will not reach the threads until the cups and joint are pressed together.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

The difference is length , the one for the v6 will bolt up but it streches the cv and makes all sorts of vibration and noise before it breaks,

If you buy a replacement shaft, make sure you get the correct length replacement!

Its pretty common to hear issues encountered where someone buys a truck with the shaft missing and get a used replacement, only to have it vibrate terribly and quickly break. The problem is there are 2 prop shafts used on explorers, one for V6 and one for V8. They have identical CV and u-joints, but are different lengths. The V8 is 22-3/4 weld-to-weld. The V6 is 23-7/8 weld-to-weld. Without an old part there is nothing to compare when purchasing a used replacement. The two sizes are very close in length and can be easily confused with each other, especially since the CV can slide straight in or out close to 3/4 inch on the shaft.

The V6 is too long to fit on the V8 trucks. With the shaft pushed its maximum into the CV the front u-joint needs about 1/4 inch clearance to get over the flanges so people loosen the TC mounts or get a big hammer or breaker bar to push the front axle forward then low behold it fits together. Driving it vibrates like mad and eventually breaks.

Obviously putting the V8 shaft into a V6 truck will bolt up no problem by sliding the CV back a little, but as noted the cv is being pulled apart in the process which again leads to vibration and breakage.

 

[SoNic67]

How do you measure the shaft? Which welds? I do have the old one out and is nowhere close of 22-23"...

 

[SoNic67]

Dorman 932-201 is the correct CV. I have installed one. It's really not too bad, just be aware of a few issues: 1 don't tip the joint more than maybe 10-15 degrees to one side or a bearing may slip out - not fun to try to put back in! 2 the strap that comes with it to tighten the boot is terrible to install and tends to cause tears in the boot over time - you are probably better off using a ziptie or nothing at all in my opinion 3 best to pre-install on a bench with the old bolts/clips. Pick up some nuts and put bolts through all six holes to get everything lined up correctly then tighten in a cross pattern to press the joint together with the cups. Otherwise you need extra hands to hold everything in place and the old bolts will barely reach the threads, the new ones (which I greatly prefer since they are hex keyed and much easier to install at angles than the shallow headed bolts) are shorter than the originals and will not reach the threads until the cups and joint are pressed together.

Thank you for the suggestions. I was tempted to forgo the strap too and use a zip-tie, I an not sure how long will last.

 

[Turdle]

there are 2 bead welds holding the yokes to the shaft, measure between them.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

How do you measure the shaft? Which welds? I do have the old one out and is nowhere close of 22-23"...

The measurement is the distance between the raised rings near the endsof the body of the shaft itself near where it steps down in size. I suppose they chose these points because you cannot see the shaft ends under the CV. Seems to me that since these are welds the measurement tolerance is going to be large - probably 1/4 inch. But anyway one is under 23, the other is close to 24. If yours is a V8, it will be the shorter one.

 

[SoNic67]

Aha, so it is this way:

 

[RomeovilleIL]

^^^^

Yup

 

[SoNic67]

I did measure between center of welds (where the end of un-welded tube would be) and I got (for my AWD) 22-7/8".

I did return the other shaft - it was 23-7/8" long. Now I have to wait more for the repair kit...

 

[SoNic67]

Update: Fixed it.

Used a Moog U-joint (Part No. 269; the old one was massively rusted in, took a lot of effort to take it out), two new straps for U-Joint (Part No 437-10; the old ones where rusted), and a Dorman repair kit for the CV joint (Part No 932-201). Reused the old bolts and the back side cup+gasket (new one was not as sturdy IMO).
Installed it under truck today, with snow all around me.

Drove it around the block and the noise is gone.
Total cost: $113 from AAP (with online codes I had a discount of $46.10).
Thanks everyone for the help and/or support (including one of my friends that provided a strong bench vise, it was impossible to remove U-joint from shaft without it). Also several youtube videos also helped a lot

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-SzzA73rqGo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPRfBJCERnQ

PS: Not only the popping stopped, but also the "clunk" that I used to get when I was lifting my foot from the gas suddenly.