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Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread


Kirby N.

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I have run both heim and 2 ton tre Chevy stuff. I like the Chevy stuff. I use spicer tres. Last time I ordered them from Jeff’s. The one on the pitman arm is long travel. I use the cure- it’s ok. Not as revolutionary as advertised. I do run my tres on my tie rod with less travel. Not like completely bottomed but a little travel. What I like best about tres is that my Heinz would get slop in them and death wobble after a year. Tres wear too but not in a year.
 


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Kirby N.

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I got a local guy who threads and wrench flats my drag linch and tie rod
 




BKennedy

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I am looking at Atlas transfer cases. I called Advanced Adaptors and the guy on the phone says they do not have a direct bolt on to my GM 700R4 trans, so I would need to keep the adaptor I have. Since I have a NP231 out of a 98 TJ, it appears I will be able to bolt a Atlas II for a manual trans TJ to what I have without having to change the trans cross member because it bolts to the adaptor. The only real modifications will be for the universal cable shifters and the drive shaft lengths if I stay with the 1310 yokes. Not sure I can clock the Atlas up flat like the NP231, so might also have to redo the skid plates. I am thinking of the 3.8 low range because the 4.3 might override my brakes with the auto trans. It would be a major improvement, and would take care of my power loss issues at higher altitudes. I should be able to order one in a few months.

Also planning on some other improvements to the Explorer:
New rear leaf packs from National Spring
Redo the steering
New steering box (maybe a Redhead)
Thinking about going up to 37's, but not sure since I have gone nearly everywhere I wanted to go with my 35's.
 




gmanpaint

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When I was researching the Atlas, I read someone saying they feared the 4.3 might overtake the brakes as well. I also read that it wasn't an issue. I rolled the dice, and ordered the 4.3. Glad I did!

With the Atlas and the manual, it wasn't a big deal as you simply pressed the clutch if it would power through. I took it for a week up in the CO Mountains climbing up to over 14k peaks everyday, and it never pushed thru the brakes for me once. I always had it in my head while on those trails, and prepped for it, just in case, but never happened.

I have since swapped back to Auto, and took it out on some steep rocky climbs and descent's. It never pushed thru the stock size brakes while in gear for me either. So what I'm saying is........... Don't fear the gear! :)

Oh... I also went from rear 1330 to 1350 joints with thick wall shafts front and back with the Atlas swap. ;) Fronts are still 1310's, but with thick wall shaft and both have the Spicer X joints. So what I'm saying is........... Fear the twist! lol
 




BKennedy

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I think Rick has the 4.3, but he also has a manual trans. What diff gears do you have?

One thing I am not a huge fan of is the twin sticks. I am a experienced crawler, and don't understand when you would want one axle in low and one in hi. I totally get why you would want the separate neutrals since I use my TeraFlex 2lo all the time on the trail. Looking at install pictures, I think the twin sticks will fit where I have the cable shifter for my NP231 because the mount is wide. Really don't want to redo my center console yet again.
20190412_125009.jpg


20190412_125018.jpg
 




gmanpaint

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You can't put one in high, and one in low. It won't allow it.

As far as axle gearing goes that also doesn't really come into play unless your talking a 323 to 513 difference.

The crawl ratio is much higher, but nothing like a doubler with twice or three times the amount. Those that use that setup have a much harder time with brakes holding.
 




BKennedy

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But you can put one in high or low and the other in neutral, correct? Now I have to think about the 3.8 versus 4.3. The Rubicon is a 4.0 and that seems to work fine with auto transmissions. Hmmmmm
 




gmanpaint

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Yes. That's correct. Front low only. Rear low only. Rear high only. Or both in low or high. Just can't have front high only.

There is room for the sticks next to the console, but they do go a bit farther than I like. The cable version might be a better option for placement.
 




jrgaylor

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Have you thought about a Blackbox/205 instead of a Atlas?
 




Rick

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I think Rick has the 4.3, but he also has a manual trans.
Correct on both accounts. I have only wanted lower gears, never higher. Even with the 4.3:1 it's not enough in some rock crawling situations. Automatic's are different animals though, no worry about slipping the clutch, just overheating a converter.
 




BKennedy

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Have you thought about a Blackbox/205 instead of a Atlas?
Yes I have. I am not a fan of constantly shifting stuff when I am out having fun. I want to put it in low range and go. The black box/205 would also require a complete redo of the transmission cross member, and there are space issues in the cab for shifters.

Correct on both accounts. I have only wanted lower gears, never higher. Even with the 4.3:1 it's not enough in some rock crawling situations. Automatic's are different animals though, no worry about slipping the clutch, just overheating a converter.
I did just that with the OEM trans.
 




BKennedy

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I was messing with the steering and noticed some play in the steering intermediate shaft. Its at the slip joint. I have been using a cut-down XJ intermediate shaft for several years because it bolts right in and has U-joints instead of rag joints. I pulled the shaft to see if I could get the play out and noticed one of the U-joints is starting to fail. They are not replaceable. I kept my old rag joint shaft, which is still in very good condition, so I put it back for now. Some of the play is gone, along with a funny bump I could feel through the steering wheel from time to time while off-road. I might just leave it because if an ain't broke, why fix it?

How about we discuss 35" versus 37" tires?

I have been thinking of going to 37" tires for several years. I am not sure if the juice is worth the squeeze. The Explorer takes me nearly everywhere I want it to go in its current set up, and with the mods I am going to do probably this year listed in a previous post, it will be even more capable. The skid plates rarely make contact. Sasha the wonder dog is getting older and already has trouble jumping into the back seat. Larger diameter tires means more strain on the axles. 37's are very cool, but are they worth it?

To get 37" tires under my Explorer would require:
1) Moving the rear axle back 1" for the larger diameter tires to clear the body. 35's rub on the front edge of the rear fender opening when new. Sounds easy, but not. I could take care of it with a custom leaf pack, which I am planning on soon anyway. Would have to modify the driveshaft, but will have to do that with the Atlas install regardless. But, won't moving the rear axle back 1" partially negate the benefit of the larger diameter tires?

2) Explorer will have to be raised about an inch to clear the firewall and front fenders. Easy to do the rear with the new leaf pack and I can adjust the coil overs in the front. But, it will change the drag link and track bar angles, and the caster, and possibly cause binding issues with my front driveshaft at full droop. Will also need to move my bumps down. It will also change the center of gravity, and its very stable in its current configuration. I mean crazy stable, like a weeble wobble.

3) Move the spare tire mount over to clear the right-side tail light, which might not clear the gas can, which would make me redo a bunch of stuff with the rear bumper.

4) New tires and wheels will cost me around $2500.00. I can sell my 35's and wheels for about $1000.

I think I just talked myself out of it, but lets discuss anyways.
 




FR-425

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Yep, stick with the 35's
 




Stic-o

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I say your good. It just sounds cool, not much difference for a lot of work. You could find some short 37's so you can say you have 37's:D
 




BKennedy

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I say your good. It just sounds cool, not much difference for a lot of work. You could find some short 37's so you can say you have 37's:D
Are you sure you're not just saying that so you will have bigger tires than me??:)
 




Rick

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I think I just talked myself out of it, but lets discuss anyways.
I was thinking about larger tires the last time I bought new IROKs. I went through the same list you did and wound up just keeping what I had. I have been running 36s.
 




Rick

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Are you sure you're not just saying that so you will have bigger tires than me??:)
Starting from scratch makes the decision a whole lot easier :D
 




gmanpaint

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Sounds like a lot of extra work and $$ for another 1" of tire lift.

If you was having issues on the trails and needing to go bigger because of that, than yeah, it might be worth it. But, since your not........Just stay with the 35's. Bigger isn't always better, especially with a D44.

I would work on getting more articulation over the 37's. Personally, I think the D44 is maxed out with 35's for long term hassle free reliability.
 






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