Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

[BKennedy]

It's hard to tell from the picture, but if you're using high-misalignment spacers, do they allow enough movement so that you can just turn the shock bodies 90* from how they're positioned now? So the bolt would be perpendicular to the frame.

Can't do that because the reservoir lines would interfere with the shock hoops. They will fit as it, but I won't be able to get anything else back into the engine compartment. If I get 90* fittings at the shock, then everything should line up easier.

Zeek:
I went with 250/300 spring rates. Little stiffer than DB1's and lighter than Demon's. I thought it would be a good starting point.

 

[Xeek]

Dang. I guess thwy make them at random. Mine are 90* at the shock itself.
The guy at foa picked my springs for me. He set me up with 150/250 up front. If everyone else is running heavier I should be damn flexy! Lol

 

[BKennedy]

I noticed this a while back, but did not think about it again until now. The zerk fittings in the upper ball joints contact the axle shaft at the u-joint yoke. They just rub, but it bugs me. There is also no way to lube the ball joint with the axles in place. Is there a replacement fitting that is low profile enough and 90* so I can lube the ball joint? All the 90* fittings I have found are just as tall, if not taller, than the standard zerk.

 

[Rick]

You may have to get a plug and put the zerk in there just for lube. I've never seen a low profile 90.

Anyway you could use a needle fitting? They are nearly flat.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Low-P...&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CIiii7Oko7sCFWIC4god8TYABQ

 

[BKennedy]

Thanks, Rick. I think I will look around town for some of those.

Potential problem:

The top mount on the FOA shocks does not allow much clearance for the shock body and mounts (See pic). Adding two 1/2" spacers will take up space I don't really have on the shock hoops. You guys think there enough clearance for the shock body to clear the mounts as the suspension cycles?

I guess I just need to tack it all up and see how it cycles.

 

[RockRanger]

How much metal is around the bolt hole in the tab?. Maybe you can grind them down a bit to help clearance.

 

[turboexplorer]

Zeek:
I went with 250/300 spring rates. Little stiffer than DB1's and lighter than Demon's. I thought it would be a good starting point.

Mine are 200/300 with the V8 and are very soft.

 

[BKennedy]

How much metal is around the bolt hole in the tab?. Maybe you can grind them down a bit to help clearance.

They are your standard, garden variety, Ballistic Fab shock mounts. There is less than 1/2" around the bolt holes. I was thinking about grinding down the outside edge of the mount. I should be getting the hoops and upper shock mounts tacked in tomorrow so I can see how it fits. I am a coil over retard so just don't know how much clearance I need. I sure don't want the mount banging on the top of the shock, that much I know...

Turbo;
Most of the people I know with coil overs are running 200/250 springs and that was what was recommended by FOA. I went 50 lbs over because I have a heavy plate bumper/winch, and want it to still drive good on the highway. Demon said his 300/350 were stiff.

 

[Randall]

I went with 250/350. Seems to be working out pretty well. They seem pretty stiff at rest, but they flex plenty offroad.

 

[BKennedy]

I went with 250/350. Seems to be working out pretty well. They seem pretty stiff at rest, but they flex plenty offroad.

I think I made a good choice with the spring rates. You got full-width axles so there is more leverage at work, and Turbo has more weight, and full-width axles. I guess if I actually had them holding up the Explorer, I could really tell...

Matt, I thought about it last night and will grind down the outside edge of the shock mounts at a 45* angle. Should give me plenty of wiggle room, without using spacers. The mounts are 1/4" and the vehicle weight will be on the top, not bottom of the mounts, so they should be fine as long as I only take off a little metal.

I have a plan for my coil over hoops (I must have got a good nights sleep):
I am going to cut one Ballistic hoop in half at the highest point. Sleeve in a straight piece of 1.75" DOM for the shock mount area. Use a piece of 1.5" DOM I have for the rear down tube to help clear the master cylinder / brake booster crap (also the AC crap on passenger side). I can cut a 1.5" hole in the bottom of the straight piece of 1.75" and weld in the rear down tube to make it nice and strong. Then, cap the end. Repeat for the passenger side................BAAAAAM!!
And.........if I screw it up the first time, I have another hoop to use. I will post pictures of progress.

 

[turboexplorer]

Agreed, you'll be very happy with that spring rate. I would like a 250/300 now. 300/300 when I do the bumper and winch. This rate will give me 150lb-in and I only have to buy one spring for each side when that happens. Or 250/350 but would require buying 4 springs.

 

[BKennedy]

Here is what I have so far:

I did not take into account that the tubing would be warped from bending. I spent 30 minutes trying to make it round again to get the sleeve inside with a sledge hammer, then looked behind me and saw this....

Five minutes later, had the sleeve in and its not coming out.
I am going to fully weld the 1.5" tubing into the straight piece of 1.75" tubing. Then get the angle right and tack the sleeve in place. Should make it easier to mock up.
What say ye??

Reference having the shock upright at full stuff:
I cycled the suspension up to full stuff and to have it upright, the shock will block the front brake line at the master cylinder. It is only an inch or so back from straight up and down at ride height. Is it better to have the shocks a little bit farther back (which would be between the brake lines, maybe another inch), or just put them straight up and down at ride height, which would be slightly forward of the front brake line?

 

[Xeek]

Lol damn y'all make me think mines gonna be realllll flexy with 150/200&150/250. Even tho i have 224ft of dom and a v8 haha

 

[turboexplorer]

My upper shock mounts are in front of the master. But my axle centerline is 2 1/2" further forward from stock so that helps with that angle on mine.

 

[BKennedy]

My upper shock mounts are in front of the master. But my axle centerline is 2 1/2" further forward from stock so that helps with that angle on mine.

My axle is 2" forward. With the shocks, did you go straight up at ride height? If I do that, it puts the shock right at the end of the master cylinder.

 

[james t]

Hoop mods look good.

I would just run the shocks in front of the MC. Having them 90 degrees at stuff is ideal but you'll really never notice a difference if they're "close".

 

[turboexplorer]

I agree with James.

And I will check today when I get home on the upper mounts.

 

[BKennedy]

Thanks fella's. My tendencies to overthink everything are taking their toll. I knew this wasn't rocket science, and I am not building a KOH car, but my German engineering side of the family makes me want everything perfect.
I was looking at a KOH car and noticed the shocks at ride height are leaned back quite a bit. I thought it might be better for whoops and highway driving to have them back a bit at the top mount.
Sometimes I need to be reminded that good enough is actually, good enough.

 

[BKennedy]

I found some other, shorter shock mounts for the upper mounts. They don't seem to have the clearance issues.

Got the shock hoops all completed today.
Twins (digging the garage carpet??);

Capped end;

Coolest shop dog ever:

 

[turboexplorer]

My shocks are leaned back a hair at ride height. Bet it's really close to straight up at full stuff. My lower mounts are a bit forward of the axle tube center so that puts the lowers a hair further towards the front. Also have another 1/2" axle center line more forward than yours.