My experience is: Get high-temp brake paint, or it won't hold up.
I used red LocTite on my bracket and knuckle bolts, although given the heat cycling brakes see LocTite won't really work as intended. It was inexpensive peace of mind that the bolts won't rattle all the way out if somehow they came loose.i thought the red was supposed to be stronger than blue. I have been reading a thread about the possible scare of those bolts coming loose, so between the correct torque and loctite, peace of mind would be a plus
I wouldn't go too bananas with the anti-seize on the rotor hat. The outside (face where the wheel attaches) should just be clean and free of debris, just as the factory intended. The inside of the hat should be the same, but I have sometimes put the slightest bit of anti seize on the snout of the unit bearing so I can separate the rotor more easily next time.i was just thinking a very small dab for future removal. I guess I wouldn't need to on the hat since they are coated stock
You shouldn't have to lube your guides, but brake grease is a handy thing to have around for a thin layer on any contact points (i.e. back of the brake pads, or any slide areas) to keep the squeaks away.i did buy the crc brand brake grease in case. Although my Wagner pads mention applications for pads w/ shims to use silicon lube on back of shim but none else-given reasons, compounds that are tacky may pull shim out of back plate and petro is bad for rubber. The crc doesn't say silicon but does say it's safe on rubber, so I'm thinking ill be fine using crc brake grease. I also bought the crc brake quite spray stuff. Was thinking of having the grease for future use on slides and such and that spray for shims and back of pads, thoughts?
Just be careful with any of these products on the friction surface of the brake rotor or pads.
WRXtra Braided SS Brake Lines InquiryI don't plan on replacing the brake lines this go around. I wanting ss but haven't had luck on finding any and think they need to be custom made, more than I want to spend right now.
WRXtra Braided SS Brake Lines Inquiry
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=398127
In the unlikely event the cab separated from the frame in a turn.... This job is NOT difficult unless you have heavy corrosion.B & c have pretty much crumbled. Say if I go over a large speed bump (at recommend speed) but the truck justs bounces like skit, is that the body mounts? How bad for safety/causes
I just read the thread (todd) wrote on mysporttrac. I concluded I will get the prothane kit.In the unlikely event the cab separated from the frame in a turn.... This job is NOT difficult unless you have heavy corrosion.
More damage is being done the longer you drive. What's happening is the bolts are moving freely in the frame and stressing the sheet metal in the cab. If you check the link below, the bolt pics show the combination of loose mounts combined with corrosion.
I would be inclined to go with the newer and cheaper Prothane 6116 after reading about fitment issues with the rear "D" mounts used in the Daystar KF04015 kit. Just make sure you have a propane torch and a strong impact wrench, minimum 250 foot lbs.
http://www.mysporttrac.com/shared/msgboard9e.asp?BOARDNAME=MSG&VIEW=1336503
Craftsman electric impact worked great for me. Sears even let me return it since the description says variable speed and it's not.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-8-amp-impact-wrench/p-00927990000P#description
Great deal, even if they're red. The impregnated graphite used in the black poly does not apply to body mounts.
Gotta laugh at Amazon's wrong descriptions. "Jack Grabber", WTH? :scratch: Here to help you if I can, go for it bro.