Completed Project Brandon's mild 4.0 OHV build

[jd4242]

O no i like the way it sounds it just way quitter and i like to hear my exhaust.motor sounds louder now though,i like that part!!

 

[Xeek]

i like the progress. if only you had the supercharger too.
whats the sohc pan do? stronger? just better?


jd, love sound of it, wouldve been better fully warmed up. i agree with you on the exhaust, its quiet but i do love the sound. i just chopped off mine right before the muffler and left it like that. its nice
aandddddd, all i need is rockers/pushrods to start my build and a few tools/engine stand. not sure on a oil pump or not yet. and all the other stuff can be done after its back in.
ive tacked on another task, 2" lift from someone here. coils, aal, drop pitman. so i think after new years would be good to start

 

[Brandon96]

Xeek - Yes, and yes. If you look at my crappy cellphone pics either on the 3rd or 4th page, you'll see why I used the SOHC cradle/pan.

The OHV had just a pan that bolted to the bottom of the block around the perimeter, the SOHC actually uses different main cap bolts, and the 'cradle' as it's know actually bolts into the back of the main cap bolts AND around the perimeter of the block, thus acting as a structural brace throughout the bottom of the motor. If any of that makes sense...

I have to take the oil pan off one more time to put an RTV gasket on, I'll be sure to snap a picture displaying the differences in the two.

Man all these VA guys are popping up in one thread, after I get this motor in may I suggested a little meet and greet lol! Xeek if your located close to Richmond I'll sell you my engine stand $10 off what I bought it, It's brand new, only been used once.. and is still being used lol.

 

[Xeek]

ok, maybe ill see if i can do a sohc pan then.
im up for a meet just as long as its before or after im done with mine!

jd made me get a bug up my ass and go record mine for the hell of it. ill upload that. keep in mind i dont have a nice 422 or a cool remote start like he does tho lol. and its pitch black outside

 

[jd4242]

Xeek - Yes, and yes. If you look at my crappy cellphone pics either on the 3rd or 4th page, you'll see why I used the SOHC cradle/pan.

The OHV had just a pan that bolted to the bottom of the block around the perimeter, the SOHC actually uses different main cap bolts, and the 'cradle' as it's know actually bolts into the back of the main cap bolts AND around the perimeter of the block, thus acting as a structural brace throughout the bottom of the motor. If any of that makes sense...

I have to take the oil pan off one more time to put an RTV gasket on, I'll be sure to snap a picture displaying the differences in the two.

Man all these VA guys are popping up in one thread, after I get this motor in may I suggested a little meet and greet lol! Xeek if your located close to Richmond I'll sell you my engine stand $10 off what I bought it, It's brand new, only been used once.. and is still being used lol.

There is about 5 or 6 of us that all live 5 mins apart.ive been talking about haven a get up for awile now.maybe after we are all done with our mods!!

 

[Xeek]

"maybe after we are all done with our mods!!" < we will never be done, we'll just think of more and more mods to add lol

yea i knew of about 3 people here(just va beach area), there was another but he sold his truck and i havent seen him on here lately. im surprised i havent seen anybody on the road yet
apperently theres this also: http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=185112652748

i dunno about the stand, just cause itll prob cost me ~$30 in gas to go there and back lol
i have HORRIBLE mileage. ill think about it tho

 

[Brandon96]

Ok, The 422 Cam is in and I got her all timed up tonight, no pics worth posting. It snowed and has been +/- 20 degrees for the past few days.. didn't count on being sick and being so cold

I feel kinda like a doofus here, but I want to make sure I got my timing right;

The crank should be at TDC with piston #1, and the cam should be set so that neither valve should have been open on that stroke, making it the compression stroke.. correct?

Also, the CMP Sensor, or Camshaft Positioning Sensor as I refer to it, is located on the end of the oil pump drive assembly, as I refer to it. The block and system I'm using is the 1995 and prior model, which the Haynes manual says will not need a special tool to align. I've read through the three pages that the manual provides me, but for some reason (may just be because I'm sick, or an idiot) I'm not understanding the procedure...

It says you must get the motor at TDC on #1, got that. Then you have to align the trailing edge vane with the mark on the sensor's window, I got that. Carefully stick the drive unit in, at that time the drive unit should spin a bit. Then your supposed to attach/bolt it down loosely and then is where I get lost.. Somehow your supposed to use a volt meter and rotate the sensor itself until you zero it in to 0 volts, or to barely negative volts? Can anyone further explain that procedure of 'zeroing' it in to me?

Negative volts just don't make sense to me :scratch:

 

[jd4242]

INSTALLATION Rotate crankshaft until TDC mark on the damper is accessible. If not present, place an additional mark on the damper at 26 degrees After Top Dead Center (ATDC) . This position is 34 mm (1.34 in) counterclockwise from the TDC mark. Position No. 1 cylinder to TDC between compression and ignition stroke. (Both intake and exhaust valves must be closed with TDC mark on vibration damper at pointer). Lubricate oil pump drive pinion and O-ring on assembled oil pump drive gear and CMP sensor with SM-2C 1013-A oil. Do not get oil above mounting flange. Align the CMP sensor rotor as shown with the trailing edge of the vane lined up with the short mark at the left-hand side of the plastic window. NOTE: Normal CMP sensor rotation is clockwise viewed from top of CID sensor. Position the sensor above its hole at right angles to the block rear face. Install the assembled CMP sensor and oil pump drive gear into the engine. As the assembly is pushed into place, the camshaft gear will rotate the sensor vane clockwise toward the center window. Rotate the CMP sensor counterclockwise. Install clamp and screw finger-tight. Rotate the sensor back to its position at right angles to the back of the block. Connect the CMP Testing Wiring Harness T94T-50-B or equivalent to the CMP sensor. Connect the CMP Testing Wiring Harness leads: Red harness wire to the battery positive terminal. Black harness wire to battery negative terminal. Voltmeter positive lead to harnesses white lead. Voltmeter negative lead to battery negative terminal. Rotate engine two revolutions to take up slack in timing chain and return to No. 1 cylinder to its compression stroke. Verify that No. 1 cylinder is on its compression stroke. NOTE: No. 1 cylinder must be at 26 degrees ATDC to set CMP sensor. Continue to rotate the crankshaft until the new 26 degrees ATDC mark lines up with the timing pointer. While rotating the CMP sensor, note the exact point where the sensor switches from 0 to 12 volts on the voltmeter. NOTE: The voltmeter will register battery voltage whenever the CMP closes and makes a complete circuit. Rotate the CMP sensor clockwise past the CMP switching point (from 12 to 0 volts). NOTE: The final movement to set the CMP sensor must be in a counterclockwise direction. Rotate the CMP sensor counterclockwise and stop at the exact point the voltmeter switches from 0 to 12 volts. Tighten the CMP sensor hold-down bolts to 17-21 Nm (13-15 lb ft) using Sensor Adjusting Wrench T94T-12270-A. Disconnect the testing wiring harness and the voltmeter

 

[jd4242]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=264672

 

[Brandon96]

ahh, that helped me a lot. Haynes, if I had it here at my house I'd quote it, really knows how to throw someone off.

 

[jd4242]

I haven't messed with one so im kind of lost on it but glad you made some sense of it.

 

[Tyson128]

Hi
The most helpful piece of information that I got on the compression stroke ever came from a retired mechanic from JFK airport.
1)Remove the #1 piston spark plug.
2)Stuff a small wad of toilet paper about the size of your thumb into the spark plug hole.
3)Rotate the Crankshaft until you hear the toilet paper pop out of the spark plug hole. That means your coming up on TDC. If you go past the mark insert the TP, rotate the crank two revolutions again until you reach TDC. The toilet paper will always pop out coming up on the proper stroke.

 

[Brandon96]

Here's the problem though Tyson.. I don't have the heads on.. I got open cylinders :

I'm just trying to do as much work as I can without them on, lol

 

[jd4242]

When you plan on yankn that other motor out?

 

[Tyson128]

Great

Clean the oil passages as much as possible because they do clog on the front side~Alot~ and starve the cylinders especially #4 and where the oil pressure sensor is located. Atleast that's what I found on 2 OHV engines so far with high miles.

 

[Brandon96]

When you plan on yankn that other motor out?

I was hoping tonight, but the news is claiming 4-6 inches of snow then ice tomorrow morning, So I decided to keep her in one more day juuust incase.

If the snow/ice is not as bad as the news is claiming it to be I'll probably put her in the garage tomorrow evening and begin the tear down.

They're already closing schools and the snow hasn't even hit the ground yet..

..central virginians I tell you..

 

[Xeek]

everybody always freaks out here. snow/storms/rain. im hoping for snow here tho. i love it when it snows. i built a large ass snowman in a food lion parking lot last year lol

 

[Brandon96]

Well,

Got the truck in the garage tonight, turned the propane heater on for an hour or so and burned all the snow off .

You know you love your Explorer when your willing to sit out in an uninsulated garage, during snowfall, 20 degrees outside just to work on it.

I took the hood off the dug in, running into problem after problem after PROBLEM. I broke about every little plastic vacuum line it has and I don't think it's worth trying to repair it.. might have to get another vacuum harness or just make a custom one, has that ever been done?

Got my upper intake off and WOW it's disgusting in there, just like the last time. It appears the inside of the upper intake is covered in carbon, reeks of fuel and has an oily film on it. Same with the lower intake, covered in carbon, and oil-like residue (though I can't verify 100% that it is) and reeks of fuel. The EGR neck has such a huge build up of black crud on it and just as oily as the others.

Any idea what causes this? And how I can clean that intake??

I could only get two pictures to send from my cellphone, I blame the Wal-Mart brand cellphone/internet connection out here :

I'll post them as I get them to go through.. in the meantime I'm heading back out there!

So far I'm down to the lower intake, the A/C condenser is still pressurized but detached, hoping I might be able to squeak by without depressurizing..


THOSE HEADS COME OFF TONIGHT!!

 

[jd4242]

Yea egr sucks!! Looks mean in the garage tho!! Haha ive been workn on my truck in the snow with my fingers sticking to the tools before,some will never understand the passion we have!!)

 

[Ronin8002]

Any idea what causes this? And how I can clean that intake??

I am pretty sure that's caused by cylinder gases blowing by the pistons and into the crankcase. It already has fuel vapors and it picks up oil vapors when it goes into the crankcase. When your PCV system pulls those gases into the intake all that crap gets deposited in your intake.

I have heard that oven cleaner will work to clean it off, but careful not to leave it on too long...might start to eat up your intake parts.

Not that you'll need it with the new motor, but putting one of these air line oil separators on each side of the PCV system will help filter that crap out before your intake sucks it in: