Camshaft Position Sensor

[Stic-o]

I am dealing with this sort of right now. I replesed this back in Oct, and been running fine. When I installed it, it gave me trouble and did not want to seat. So I just torqured it down with the hold down bolt...maybe that wasn't such a good idea

I now have no oil presure and a PO340 code. I ruled out the sensor, and am about to pull the oil pan. With 140k+ I'll replace the pump and see what the shaft looks like. My thought is it is broken. Not sure... If the shaft and the sycro match up then mabe it just rounded it self..

 

[CDW6212R]

Well, the old synchro goes back in and out without any problem. So what do you guess is the problem. I vote on the gear. There is one tooth on the back of the dorman gear that has notch in it. That might be a timing mark of some kind and it would have to line up with a mating mark on the cam, No way to see it so that doesn't fly. It doesn't take much to keep close tolerance gears from meshing properly, the oil pump shaft is possibly a problem, but I don't see how. There is no way that I can turn the synchro shaft without the tool in place. It would destroy the stator. Any ideas???

A distributor usually fights going back in because of the oil pump relationship. The cam gears have to line up, as well as the six sided drive shaft. Often an easy solution is to turn the oil pump slightly, and try the distributor(cam sensor) again. Likely you have the six sided hole in each part not being dead on exactly the same. Can you get a tool in there to turn the oil pump without losing the tool? Take your time with that, don't drop it by accident. I have always used a socket and extension(old school). Good luck,

 

[GeorgeR]

A distributor usually fights going back in because of the oil pump relationship. The cam gears have to line up, as well as the six sided drive shaft. Often an easy solution is to turn the oil pump slightly, and try the distributor(cam sensor) again. Likely you have the six sided hole in each part not being dead on exactly the same. Can you get a tool in there to turn the oil pump without losing the tool? Take your time with that, don't drop it by accident. I have always used a socket and extension(old school). Good luck,

Well, Don you make a valid point and if the old unit didn't go in and out so easily, I would probably tried that step next. However, I ordered a domestic rebuild part from Napa and it had to come from Miami, so I couldn't get it until this morning. Guess what? The rebuilt unit slipped right in and the X is purring like a just fed kitten. Too soon to tell if it's going to improve mileage yet, but I can wait.
I'm relatively sure that the center line of the new assy is about 10/15 thou or a little more off. Just enough to keep the shaft keyway recess from aligning. with the oil pump shaft and shifting the body of the unit enough off center to make it very difficult to turn and to extract it from the engine. The wear marks on the shaft seem to bear this theory out.
If I hadn't wasted so much time on it already, I would set up my dial indicator and see what the runout is. I may have been able to whack it with a hammer and seat it, but I would have to get a crane to remove it.
The rebuilt Cardone unit cost 30 bucks more from Napa, but it's worth it in the long run to me. Plus it works!!!!
At any rate, the job is done and I'm happy with it so far. Thanks a heap for the help and support from you guys on the forum, especially Mikeri,
Jon and Don.

 

[Turdle]

Dont you hate it when that happens?
You are doing everything right and it just will not work.
There is no excuse for bad parts out of the box, making us question ourselves.

end of rant--

I'm glad you have it repaired-thanks for posting the good news!

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, thanks for letting us know what worked.

 

[Mikeri]

You are welcome kind sir. But, I must say that I have learned alot from this thread also. I mentioned the hard time I had seating mine, and then, bamo, it fit. Off centerline by 1/16 of an inch. Running great for over 1000. But some bad reports on the Dorman part from the Taurus board...will keep an eye on things. Also, turning the intermediate shaft is something I had never heard of. IIRC, it is a 5/16 socket. You would want to tape the extention and socket well so as not to drop in the engine. Anyway, this is a better post than the sticky, imho. Last thing: The Cam Synchronizer Gear can be found under "distributor" or " crank angle sensor". If I score a quick couple hundred, maybe I will take it to the dealor for a timing fine tune...but, then, it's running great. Good luck all.

 

[96exp5.0]

I replaced my CPS the other day and when i start it the first inital throttle response is awesome but then after that it hesitates backfires and has no power. Retimed it prolly 10x now with no luck. Oh if you shut it off and fire it back up it has great throttle response then back to the same thing. You can do that all day. What am i missing?

 

[SoNic67]

I did try to install a Dorman one in my V8 and couldn't make it mesh back in. Try the old one - did go in right away. I did buy a Motorcraft one and that one slided right in the gears.
You don't need to turn the pump shaft, it's 100 times easier to rotate the sensor "flag" (of course with the sensor removed) till alignes with the pump hex - keep the aproximate location like original (it will move 6 times in a circle).
The exact ulterior adjustment is rotating theoutside of the syncronizer till it matches the interior flag.
I didn't use the alignment tool, I just put the new one exactly in the same relation like the old one. If you touched the crankshaft, you need the tool and you need to make sure you are at cylinder 1 top compression (not top exhausting).

I would not trust a Dorman syncronizer.