changing plugs and coils on my V8 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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changing plugs and coils on my V8

eirechef

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July 27, 2009
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City, State
charleston sc
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 explorer ltd
I need to change the plugs and coils as cylinder #6 is misfiring and I havent done a tune up since 100K. I now have 171k, so I think it is time!!
Can anyone help me with this?
Are there pics of this being done. I have only done plugs and wires before. I am un familiar with the coils.
I'm pretty handy and want to do this myself.
any help would be appreciated
Thanks in advance
 



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1 7mm bolt per cop and the plug is under it. pretty simple about 15 min of work. 30 min for the first time.
 






Thanks waskly,
Is there anything to be cautious about?
Looks like I may have to move some stuff on the passenger side, hoses etc.
Looks kinda tight.
Im going to give it a shot tomorrow.....
Thanks again
 






Thanks waskly,
Is there anything to be cautious about?
Looks like I may have to move some stuff on the passenger side, hoses etc.
Looks kinda tight.
Im going to give it a shot tomorrow.....
Thanks again

drivers side you will just have to take the 8mm worm clamp off, and 2 connectors that goes to the intake. its actually quick nothing hard or no funky angles.

only thing i will say is get a ford 4.6l spark plug socket or a locking extension if its a short plug socket. sometimes the rubber will hold the socket around the plug if its a short plug socket and the extension will come out leaving the socket in the plug well.
 






I would also add that I would not replace the coils if you aren't having problems. HOWEVER, I would definitely replace the plug boots. I had a recurring P0308 misfire on cyl. 8 and high temp boots from NAPA solved the issue. Mine has 195,000. Rick
:exp: New coils will (should) come with the boots and springs but why buy them if you don't need them. I now keep a new spare boot in the console. Seems to be higher heat on that side of the engine for some reason.
 






Thanks Waskly, good tip on the plug socket wrench. I will definatly get one.

Rick, you say not to bother with the coils, the thing is how do I know that I don't need them, but you suggest boots, that come with coils and springs......I'm a little confused, sorry, just trying to get it straight.
I'm headding to auto zone to pick up the "stuff" and tackle this.
Thanks guys.
Simon
 






There is a way to test the coils. I have not done it. Having said that, I have just always found that on my truck when there was ever a mis-fire or code P03** it has always been the rubber boots, plugs or spring connectors. Now I am NOT saying you don't have a coil problem but from where I sit, $50-60/ea. for coils when they are not necessary is an expense I don't want. I think you'll find the plugs and boots are the first place to start. If your valve covers are leaking and there is any oil at all in the wells it will make the boot soft and spongy allowing the spark to detour at the weakest point in the boot. I had to inspect each of mine carefully. I found cracks as well as softness (spongy) in the boots. At that point if you have a particular cylinser that is giving you a problem then a bad ground at the coil mount is the next likely culprit to look for. Well, I could go on and on...................hope this helps. Don't overtighten use torque specs.
 






Good stuff guys, I amd going to tackle the plugs today and i will post the results.
 






I changed all 8 plugs. ! through 4 were no problem. 5 through 8 were a little oily. 6 was the worst. Tons of oil in the well. Surprisingly the coil pac was in good shape. I put everything back together and it ran smoothly. One week, to the day, later the X runs like **** again and the service engine light is back on.
I am back to Square one.
 






I would guess that it's the oil in the well of plug 6 causing a misfire. It amazes me how much having 1 cyl out affects how these run. I drove a truck from Wyoming to New Mexico with the plug wire off #7, (to stop the knock). This was an old 302 and the truck ran fine. I had 1 cyl misfire on my '97 with 5.4L and I almost never made it up a little grade to get home.
I would check #6 and if it is full of oil you need to fix that leak first.
 






I had the same situation in my x in another thread. Get an obd scanner and get the code and it will probably tell you have a misfire, did you torque all the plugs and blow air in and around before removal? Unfortunately for me i had a faulty plug from the factory and the ceramic peice that holds the electrode that is not supposed to move was sliding back and forth. After I replaced it all ran fine.
 






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