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How to: D35 C-clip Eliminator, Made Easy

Maniak

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I can't remember a roll pin in the carrier holding in the shaft. That shaft is held in by a bolt. The bolts to break somewhat often and they make a special tool to get the broken bolt out, but it was a bolt.

~Mark
 


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little x

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The cross shaft in my 8.8 was held in with a bolt, but the 35 has what I believe to be a roll pin, based on research I've done reading about breaking down other types of axles. Here is a pic. I'll have to go and buy a pick kit. I used to have one, and have broken every single pick over the years. I guess it's time to replace them. I was just hoping that since several people have walked this trail before that there would be a good method for removal. I WISH there was a bolt there. I don't have high hopes of being able to remove it with just a pick. FYI my truck was built in 1/91, maybe they changed from a roller pin to a bolt some time in 91.

slidepin001.jpg
 




Tbars4

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...My X is 1/91 also I believe..:scratch:

...The 91's had a lot of changes made in 5/91..;)

..As for the roll pin, I'm with the Maniak as I can't remember s**t either when it dates back to when I changed my gears and added the Aussie up front...

..The pic would not be useful in this application if it is truely a roll pin..What you would need is a long center punch or even a pritchel would work..

..This might help...:dunno:..but I would look for one at harbor freight..;)
http://www.hellotrade.com/thexton-manufacturing-company-incorporation/hardened-steel-punch.html


...Just wanted to add, you don't need to remove the center pin or carrier to remove the c-clip..:hammer:
 




little x

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...Just wanted to add, you don't need to remove the center pin or carrier to remove the c-clip..:hammer:

REALLY?? I wasn't planning on removing the carrier, just the center pin, so that I could remove the aussie locker to access the c-clip. Is your statement only valid for an open diff?

I didn't install the locker, it was added when I had gears put in so I'm not 100% sure how it looks in there. I was hoping that I could get the c-clip out through the "window" in the locker without removing the locker, but after removing the locker springs and looking through what looks like the "c-clip window" in the locker I see no c-clip. That is what made me assume that the locker had to be removed (and there for the center pin had to be removed first) in order to remove the c-clip.

Back to removing the roller pin. . . is that not what's pictured? I'm trying to learn, and from reading it was my understanding that if the center pin isn't held in with a bolt then it is held in with a roller pin. There is no bolt in the picture, just a "pin" of sorts, so I assumed it was a roller pin. It would be easy for me to remove the roller pin with a center punch IF I drilled a massive hole in the side of the diff housing so that I could line it up right - not the best option in my book.

My inner differential knowledge is lacking, I have put in an aussie in my 8.8, but this is the first time I've personally cracked opened my D-35.
 




Tbars4

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...Seems you left some important information out of your first post like having an Aussie locker..

..It's like I mentioned before and you will need a pick or similar..This thread has a little bit of info on how difficult it can be with an Aussie to remove the C-clip in either a Dana 35 or 8.8 and the principal is the same for both..:hammer:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=229669&highlight=aussie


...I vaguely remember a roll pin but you take the complete carrier out when dealing with that as in installing new spider gears, loakers, and such..This has some basic ifo on getting the carrier itself out..
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157814&highlight=aussie

...Again, not needed to be done to remove the c-clips..;)
 




R.J.

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Thanks Ted for the write up. Glad i looked it up here cause i like it better than the TRS write-up. I've got to do this before the next trip
 




Tbars4

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..Glad to be of help..:biggthump

...Now get your foshizzle together..:hammer:
 




gmanpaint

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About to tear into the 94 to swap in a 4.10 3rd member. Going to do the c-clip eliminator while I am at it. :)

I never tore apart the TTB yet, and am having mixed signals over how to get the diff removed. :scratch:

I have heard a couple ways to achieve this....

1) strip both axles by removing the hubs, brakes & spindles. Remove shocks and coils. Remove sway bar. Remove both Radius arms from frame mounts. Remove pinch bolt, and all diff bolts. Pull diff straight out and remove C-clips. Pull Axle out for the clip eliminator.

2) strip both axles of hubs, brakes, & spindles. Remove shocks and coils. Remove sway bar. Remove only one Radius arm, (use a come along to pull the RA out of the mounts by attaching it to the beams & a post, if you still have rivets). Do not remove pinch bolt. Remove all diff bolts. Droop beams all the way to allow the 3rd member to come out.

So, which way is better? I was told the 2nd method is tons faster, but have never seen any posts explaining this method.
 




Maniak

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#2 is how I do it when I'm at a junk yard. The only thing I don't see listed is I pulled the axle pivot from the driver side beam too. If I didn't do that I couldn't get the 3rd member to clear the axle pivot bracket for the passenger side.

Once you have the drivers side RA pulled out of the RA bracket you can pull it towards the outside. Once you do that you can pull the pinch bolt. So, I guess its more a combo of #1 and #2..

Keep in mind, as long as you have that c-clip in there you can't pull the inner shaft from the passenger side axle and that gets in the way as your trying to pull the 3rd member. Once you have that c-clip out of there pulling that center diff will be so much easier.

~Mark
 




gmanpaint

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Cool, thanks Mark!

Okay, couple more questions (sorry)...

Will the pass axle pull out with the 3rd member when trying to remove it?

Do I reach in once there is enough room and remove the C-clip? Then the pass axle will not be connected to the carrier, freeing the assembly?

Also, once the eliminator is installed, then & only then, the pinch bolt can be used as a hing to install the pumpkin?

I know this will all come to light once I dig into it, I just like being armed with all the knowledge I can get before attempting something new to me. :)
 




Maniak

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Cool, thanks Mark!

Okay, couple more questions (sorry)...

Will the pass axle pull out with the 3rd member when trying to remove it?
Yes.. They will come out together which is why your trying to make as much room as possible to get it out of there.

Do I reach in once there is enough room and remove the C-clip? Then the pass axle will not be connected to the carrier, freeing the assembly?
I doubt it. Once I had the 3rd memeber on the ground it took me a few minutes to pry that c/e-clip out of there.

Also, once the eliminator is installed, then & only then, the pinch bolt can be used as a hing to install the pumpkin?
Thats how I do it now. I just get it hung up there, swing it towards the front, lift it a bit and then the bolts on the front go right in.

~Mark
 








XLTByAccident

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Sorry if this is in the wrong spot or I missed it, but is there anyone on the forum selling the C-Clip Eliminator as a kit? I've been roaming the local hardware stores looking for just the right spring. Tired of getting "close" and would rather just buy it all packaged up if it is reasonably priced. Looks like there are variants to the spring and collar to use. The following two posts use different springs. Not sure if one is better than the other. Opinions? Anyone ever have a spring fail and if they did, anything bad happen? I'm using an Aussie Locker up front and read somewhere where someone was having problems with the locker, possibly due to the C-Clip Eliminator. Sorry, don't remember the thread, but the theory was the axle might be pulling out slightly if you have a lot of travel causing an un-even loading on the locker. Anyone hear of this?


http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1987094&postcount=1


http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2061350&postcount=20
 




Maniak

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Sorry if this is in the wrong spot or I missed it, but is there anyone on the forum selling the C-Clip Eliminator as a kit? I've been roaming the local hardware stores looking for just the right spring. Tired of getting "close" and would rather just buy it all packaged up if it is reasonably priced. Looks like there are variants to the spring and collar to use. The following two posts use different springs. Not sure if one is better than the other. Opinions? Anyone ever have a spring fail and if they did, anything bad happen? I'm using an Aussie Locker up front and read somewhere where someone was having problems with the locker, possibly due to the C-Clip Eliminator. Sorry, don't remember the thread, but the theory was the axle might be pulling out slightly if you have a lot of travel causing an un-even loading on the locker. Anyone hear of this?


http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1987094&postcount=1


http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2061350&postcount=20

That was R.J. that was having the issues. I'm running a Trac lok up front with no c-clip and so far no issues with it. I've only gone on 2 runs with the trac-lok and c-clip eliminator. I've run the c-clip eliminator with an open front for a few years.. Keep in mind R.J. and myself have quite a bit of front suspension travel. I believe I have about the same amount of travel as him but its not like I measured. What I'm saying is that a normal lift kit doesn't give you the kind of travel he or I are getting, and it should be the droop where you "might" run into an issue.

The issue with the spring is you need to make sure it is long enough and strong enough to push the axle shaft outward through the entire suspension droop without it also being so long that it won't let the shafts come together as the suspension cycles up. Next time I'm working on the front end I'll cycle my passenger side suspension and see if the axle shaft is fully seated all the time.

I'm using the actual echo spring. The part # is listed in this thread..

~Mark
 




JDwornik

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Does anyone know where I can get one o these split collars? I need one asap to do my axle in my 94 explorer
 




Maniak

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gmanpaint

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Ted, (or whomever) can you explain how you installed the axles with this mod? I have mine apart still from the dif swap, and have the parts in hand for this mod as well.


What I'm trying to understand here is.... will the spring and collar fit thru the knuckle if it is installed before hand? Just slide the boot on after it is ran thru the knuckle? :scratch:
 




Maniak

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Ted, (or whomever) can you explain how you installed the axles with this mod? I have mine apart still from the dif swap, and have the parts in hand for this mod as well.


What I'm trying to understand here is.... will the spring and collar fit thru the knuckle if it is installed before hand? Just slide the boot on after it is ran thru the knuckle? :scratch:

Yes, the collar fits through the knuckle. Its been a while but I'm well over 95% sure I put it on outside the vehicle..

You can see its size compared to the u-joints and the u-joints "almost" fit all the way through. Heck, if the bolts to hold the RA to the axle beam wasn't there I think the u-joints would actually fit through it too.

4194124216_70d1011bf8_z.jpg

c-clip-eliminator 001 by maniak_az, on Flickr

~Mark
 




gmanpaint

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Thanks Mark.

I kind of posted before I thought it thru again.:crazy:

I went back outside after that post & thought the same thing about the u-joints going thru the knuckle. Damn Newbs.....:banghead:
 


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gmanpaint

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Ted,

Does this split-collar sit in the groove for the slip joint boot, or is it beyond (the other side of) the groove?



The collar I have from McMasterCarr is 9/16" wide, and does not fit inside the shaft groove. :(

Will it be ok to overlap one edge?
 




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