DB_1's re re re...aww heck, i'm re-doing my set-up | Page 4 | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations
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DB_1's re re re...aww heck, i'm re-doing my set-up

I've reworked my front suspension a few times since doing the SAS but this time i'm going change up my front set up once and for all because it's never quite been dialed in. Currently I'm running a control arm set up just like the Rubicon Express long arm system...It's really just a fancy radius arm.

So the problem is that on the frame end of the arms i'm running 7/8" x 3/4" rod ends which have only around 17* of misalignment. I quickly run out of misalignment on the rod end on downtravel which then loosens the jamb nuts. Not exactly the best situation when off roading with all that slop. That's the only reason I have good flex is from the jam nuts loosening up...it can be better.

Current specs on the links are:

Uppers:
1.5" x .250 wall DOM tubing
3/4" heims on the link end
3/4" rubber joints on the axle end

Lowers:
1.5" x .250 wall DOM sleeved with 1.75" x .120 wall DOM
3/4" rubber bushings on axle end
7/8" x 3/4" heims on the frame end

So the plan is to also move the axle forward an inch or so to keep the tires out of the firewall but it might interfere with the engine crossmember, that will be a challenge.
I also want to lower the front an inch as well as add an inch of travel. Somehow I have to find 2 inches of space in the engine bay for the upper shock mounts to do that.
The lower control arm mounts will be spread apart a few inches to help with the heim misalignment issue.

Now, on with the goods. I've been accumulating these parts for at least a year now so time to get them on the truck:D

New specs on the control arms will be as follows:

Uppers:
1.5" x .250 wall DOM
3/4" thread hex tube inserts from Spidertrax
3/4" shank with 5/8" bolt urethane boulder bushing from Poison Spider Customs on link end
Urethane bushings from Ballistic on axle end

Lowers:
2" x .250 wall DOM tubing
1.25" thread hex tube inserts from Currie
1.25" FK heims with hi-misalignment spacers (double the misalignment of my old heims)
2 1/8" dia. x .250 wall with 5/8 bolt urethane bushings from Summit Machine on axle end
K.O.R.E. 1/4" thick link brackets on frame end
Ballistic 1/4" thick link brackets on axle end
Ruff Stuff 1/4" brackets for X-member

Here's some pics...just for giggles, last pic compares a 1.25" heim to a 3/4" heim. Makes it look...cute:p:

pic_0141.jpg

pic_0142.jpg

pic_0143.jpg

pic_0145.jpg
 



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Tbars4

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uninstall a u joint in the front d-shaft and see what's going on

...You said you had replaced the front u-joints in the drive shaft...What are the symptoms???
 



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DB_1

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Great news, Dave.

So is this the final revision to your setup then? :)

I sure hope so:p: Seems like every couple of years i'm redoing something. I need a shakedown run to really test it out.

Tbars, I swapped over everything from my shaft to yours because it looked to be in better condition. The u-joints look like they are the originals in the shaft you gave me.
As for the front u-joint, I had a new one to put in there and I installed it but it seems tight. I think a needle bearing is out of place so that's the reason I need to take it apart again.
 






Tbars4

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...Gotcha...You hadn't mentioned a problem but said you were going to swap one...

...I have a new joint minus one cap if you need the cap and needle bearings...I keep it around for stuff like that...;)
 






DB_1

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...I have a new joint minus one cap if you need the cap and needle bearings...I keep it around for stuff like that...;)

Thanks but I have a spare also I can loot and pillage from also;)

The bushings I used for my engine crossbar are falling apart already from engine heat. They are a very soft durometer urethane...like gummi bear soft. They used to be bushings on some old Rancho traction bars I had but now they will be trash. I'll just make some steel bushings and be done with it.

Here's a few pics but really not much change visually from how it was before.

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dsc00734.gif


dsc00735.gif
 






Rick

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Looks great Dave:chug:

Can't wait to see it in person.
 






DB_1

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Thanks Rick, I'm hoping to make it out for Thanksgiving weekend but some work has suddenly come my way so we'll see.

I got a Ford recall notice (09S09) today about the cruise control...isn't this an old recall and i'm just now getting a notice?

EDIT: Found the recall in the Ford industry news forum
 






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90ranajo

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I got a Ford recall notice (09S09) today about the cruise control...isn't this an old recall and i'm just now getting a notice?

Yep, got mine for the F250 on Thursday. Should check to see if the Ranger needs it also.




Oh, and looking good Dave.
 






DB_1

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Yep, got mine for the F250 on Thursday. Should check to see if the Ranger needs it also.
Oh, and looking good Dave.

Thanks...according to recall post, it looks like your Ranger gets the recall too:

Tuesday's recall includes the following Ford models: 1995-2003 Windstars, 2000-2003 Excursion diesels, 1993-1997 and 1999-2003 F-Super Duty diesels, 1992-2003 Econolines, 1995-2002 Explorers and Mercury Mountaineers, 1995-1997 and
2001-2003 Rangers and 1994 F35 motorhomes.
 






90ranajo

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Wonder what they would say if I brought the Ranger (as is) in on the trailer. I'll also will be moving that switch out of the m/c when I swap to a little shorter one.
 






DB_1

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Probably call them and see what they say first.

I'd like a shorter M/C too, is there a direct bolt in replacement or does the booster have to replaced too?
 






90ranajo

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I'm just swapping it out for a '94 model that doesn't have that extra 1-1.5" for the switch. The bore and stroke are the same as is the bolt pattern.
 






Stic-o

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Got my notice to Dave....and I don't even have Cruise on the EX :confused:
 






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I'm just swapping it out for a '94 model that doesn't have that extra 1-1.5" for the switch. The bore and stroke are the same as is the bolt pattern.

After comparing the 2 m/c, they're the same length. So ignore the above information.
 






95exploderboy

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After comparing the 2 m/c, they're the same length. So ignore the above information.

I was upset when I found that out as well. I thought it would give me room for the air shock hoops. Seems that they sometimes use the same MC and just drill the ports they need.
 






DB_1

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After comparing the 2 m/c, they're the same length. So ignore the above information.

Ahh bummer, there must some option out there. I know Early Bronco's have an aftermarket M/C that comes out at a 45 degree angle. I just don't know what would be involved to make it work with our trucks.
 






410Fortune

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what about using the early Ranger/BII/2wd booster?
its smaller and would not boost as well, but it would save you about 2-3" in mounting depth

Camburg had mounted the master cylinder backwards next to the booster and used a teeter totter style linkage to connect the booster plunger/pedal to the master cyl

Always looked like too much work and too much going on to me

I think a F-250 hydro boost setup would also chave about 2" from your booster mounting depth, the hydro booster manifold is not as deep as our Explorer vacuum boosters are

then there is always the aftermarket/race pedal and master cylinder setups $$$$$$$$ dual master cylinders, billet, bling bling,

I want to go hydro on my BII :) and on the explorer for towing, BII first since shes getting chopped up

I was looking at this the other day, and with mounting a coilover right on top of the beam (instead of on the radius arm) I think I have room to go in front of my master cylinder, the BII is running a 94 explorer booster and a 95 disc brake no frills master cylinder (same length as the brake switch master, they just didnt drill the port)
 






DB_1

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I know little to nothing when it comes to brake boosters and M/C's so i'm in the dark as far as what would work and what will.

THe BC Bronco's set up looks interesting, the booster and M/C is mounted to a bracket that angles it at about a 45 degrees. The price tag is a bit much to experiment with though. The bracket looks easy enough to make but its the bell crank mechanism that would be tricky to figure out.
Maybe someday if I get my hands on a spare booster and M/C i'll try and figure something out.

Here's a link to the BC Broncos set up:

http://www.bcbroncos.com/brakesystem08.html
 






DB_1

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Took the truck out wheelin' over Thanksgiving and the inner fenderwells
are gonna have to go on a diet. One of the tires was getting sliced up pretty good but luckily it didn't cut all the way through.
My air cleaner mount got mangled plus i'll need to relocate the remote reservoirs as they were getting rubbed by the tires. I'm suprised the drivers side res is even there still, one of the hose clamps holding it on broke:eek:

I've got some steering linkage interference also, drag link bolt on the pitman is kissing the tie rod when I stuff a drivers side tire. I'm going to try shorter hi-mis spacers and if that doesn't work i'll have to get a Skyjacker pitman arm for a 6" lift. It actually has the same drop as my 4" Superlift arm but it is longer by 1".

Aside from all that i'm happy with the new set-up so I don't think you'll be seeing another rebuild thread from me anytime soon:p:
 



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Stic-o

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:dunno:maybe some small spacers on the wheels?
 






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