Doesn't even click!

[joney]

Several days ago, the new master window switch on my 98 Ex stopped working partially. (wouldn't run the back windows). Not fixed yet, hard to work in 90 degree humid days! Then yesterday, wouldn't click or turn over - put the charger on 3 hrs. No difference! But locks work. Theft light stays solid. Can't hear well enough to tell if fuel pump turns on but didn't hear it. Battery at over 14 volts. Suspicious the door switch or wiring may have caused it - but do these short out? I could take the window switch out to isolate that, But what else should I check first? Not sure if the starter relay is on the starter, or where the starter is for that matter. Advice appreciated! Electrical stuff is not my strong suit.

 

[donalds]

Take a hard look at your battery cables

And buy a new master sw

 

[joney]

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/1AAAAOSwnqlihQdM/s-l1600.jpgTake a hard look at your battery cables

And buy a new master sw

Thanks for the fast reply! Yeah, it's pitiful the new switch lasted only a few months. didn't fit quite right either. Do switches short out or fail open?

Update: I was able to score a NOS OEM door panel with the switch in it! When it comes, will use the switch of course, but then I'll have NOS tan door panel that holds the switches, available to sell. $10. FYI Seller also has more of these complete with switch. Will report back when it comes.

 

[C420sailor]

You shouldn’t have 14V at your battery with the truck not running. Mid-12s.

If you’re actually at 14+ with the truck off, some ****ery is afoot.

Def check your cables, as Donalds mentioned. Just the other day, my truck was doing some weird things and then wouldn’t start. Loose negative clamp.

 

[joney]

You shouldn’t have 14V at your battery with the truck not running. Mid-12s.

If you’re actually at 14+ with the truck off, some ****ery is afoot.

Def check your cables, as Donalds mentioned. Just the other day, my truck was doing some weird things and then wouldn’t start. Loose negative clamp.

Borrowed voltmeter, will check its batteries - not sure it's reading correctly! Can't imagine where a 12v battery would get an extra couple volts! BTW the truck wouldn't start even with the charger hooked up! Thinking this matters, also. And when I turn the key, the battery gauge in the truck reads very low.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Sounds very much like a connection issue, as mentioned above. Try a good wiggle of each cable, trying to start in between each. If it’s starts it might help narrow the usual suspects down. This reminds me I currently have a broken negative clamp…

 

[Turdle]

Yes, clean the battery terminals, remove them and use a wire brush on the posts, and inside the round connectors. Our trucks are very finicky about dirty post connections. Use no grease, clean all grease off you find.

 

[Turdle]

If this doesn't help, check starter relay in power distribution box under hood.

 

[Lee's Automotive]

Thanks for the fast reply! Yeah, it's pitiful the new switch lasted only a few months. didn't fit quite right either. Do switches short out or fail open?

Update: I was able to score a NOS OEM door panel with the switch in it! When it comes, will use the switch of course, but then I'll have NOS tan door panel that holds the switches, available to sell. $10. FYI Seller also has more of these complete with switch. Will report back when it comes.

View attachment 431370

I'm interested in the panel for sale

 

[joney]

I'm interested in the panel for sale

Cool! will drop you a PM when I get it. Seller states blemishes on it. With your address at the time, for shipping quote. Pic also, supposed to be tan in color. As stated, I'm keeping the switch.

 

[toypaseo]

I had a turn key, click, and everything dead issue. This was the problem...

 

[sehaare]

I had looked into replacing the battery cables on my 98 a few years ago, but wasn't having any luck finding direct replacements and when I started looking into the routing it looked like it was going to be much more work than I wanted to do. Replacing the cables on my 81 and 92 VW's was easy not sure why ford had to make it so hard on these.

 

[joney]

I had looked into replacing the battery cables on my 98 a few years ago, but wasn't having any luck finding direct replacements and when I started looking into the routing it looked like it was going to be much more work than I wanted to do. Replacing the cables on my 81 and 92 VW's was easy not sure why ford had to make it so hard on these.

Just wondering, is there a such thing as battery cable by the foot, so as to cut yours to fit? Like hose or brake line for example. Would be useful for sure.

 

[C420sailor]

Absolutely. You can buy bulk cable to make your own.

I recently bought a new positive cable set (Motorcraft) for my mom’s expedition. Not very cheap, but you can’t beat factory

 

[CDW6212R]

I have bought a few of those master switches that way, one this past Winter, maybe from the same seller, for about $38 or so. That switch won't cause the no start, it has no power when the engine is off. So go at the battery and cables, that should be where the no power is from. The voltage running should be in the 13.8-14.5v range, but off you want it in the mid 12's when it has only been off for a little while.

 

[joney]

I have bought a few of those master switches that way, one this past Winter, maybe from the same seller, for about $38 or so. That switch won't cause the no start, it has no power when the engine is off. So go at the battery and cables, that should be where the no power is from. The voltage running should be in the 13.8-14.5v range, but off you want it in the mid 12's when it has only been off for a little while.

Thanks for the info. Terminal connectors could be better - I have a replacement set, have to find it. Also going to shine up the end of the ground wire from the battery to the body. But it bugs me that the battery with nothing connected, reads 14.5 volts. Not sure about this voltmeter, but that's a large difference. Stuff like the locks and dash warning lights does work. Never had it not click when trying to start, before when my last battery bit the dust. This one new 10/21

 

[Mbrooks420]

I suspect the battery voltage isn’t that high. Even if it overcharged it should settle back down.

Are the headlights on and bright? I’d rule out all the connections topside. If everything checks out, unfortunately, it’s time to crawl under the bugger and check out the starter connections.

 

[CDW6212R]

That voltmeter sounds fishy, check it with another one, before starting it and when you get it running.

 

[joney]

I'm interested in the panel for sale

Got the panel! PM me with the address, we can communicate. My Ex is stationary right now, Found the neg. connector is trash, working on cleaning up the neg. ground connector next, then the new switch! Hopefully the starter/fuses/relay test out OK, still could use a better multimeter. Always some kind of tool needed I don't have, in the meantime. Hate taking a cab to O'Reilly's LOL

 

[410Fortune]

check battery connections at cables
Check MEGA fuse at power junction box, it could have blown
98 has a starter relay in the PJB that is the next suspect in the starter circuit, easy enough to test the signals going too and from it

Changing battery cables is not too difficult once you know what you are looking at, Ford just wrapped a bunch of wires together