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How to: ecoboost_xsport consolidated build/maintenance thread

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Ya, i meant Aaron's kit, should have mentioned it beforehand.

We've treaded a bunch of messages on the SHO page, but he was unsure if the line he provided would fit. I'm coming up on needing a brake job so I was looking into his kit as an option, so I'm guessing I'd need that adaptor or something similar to make it work?

Would there be an "off the shelf" line i could buy or is that adaptor you have the only option? I know on my old Mustang, Goodrich made some OTS braided lines for the bolt on cobra brake kit that was popular at the time.

Thanks for the guidance 👍
You can have brake lines made at a number of places. That adapter was provided to me from TCE and not sure where he got it from, although I think I vaguely remember him saying something about a Ford F250...

But yeah, you're only hurdle will be finding brake lines the correct length and that fitting. Pretty easy fix, if you ask me. Maybe even hit up TCE if you can't find those fittings anywhere.

I'd just buy Aaron's kit as is and start from there. Again..I haven't seen his kit, so I can't confirm everything is a 100% fit, but I'm pretty confident it can be used.

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Hood Vent/Heat Extractor Installation

Something I’ve wanted to address was lowering engine bay and IA temps. Getting cooler air is a good place to start when tackling high IAT and IAT2 temps.

This was going to be done in 2 stages. 1st, remove built-up heat within the bay and 2nd, to feed the intake system with true outside air. Although I have the AirAid CAI system, you can see how that open filter within the bay ingests all the hot air.


The OEM box with a K&N filter would likely function better as there is an inlet behind the grille and the box is sealed from the bay. However, I’m intent on retaining the AirAid filter, but will address this part of the issue later...stay tuned.

While researching, I started out looking at aftermarket hoods. This would be the simplest solution. But, the only hood worth entertaining was by Amerihood. It's got a trick, functional ram scoop, but no heat extraction provision. The other issue with it was weight. It’s fiberglass and would exceed the weight of the OEM aluminum one. I don't have an exact weight of the Amerihood, but the OEM one weighs only ~19lbs (the image shows ~21lbs, but I weighed it with the aftermarket hood shocks, which weigh ~1lb each):


You're not getting lighter than that, except for carbon fiber. I contacted Amerihood to see if they offer one in CF, but sadly, no. So, I began to investigate vent inserts, which would require modifying my existing hood. Not ideal, but it’s what I was left with.

I think it's important to talk a bit about the dynamics of airflow across a hood for a moment in order to understand why I chose the one I did. There are low & high-pressure areas on the front of any vehicle. High-pressure areas being the very front, the base of the windshield and most any other area that is vertical to airflow. It’s behind these high-pressure areas that low-pressure areas develop. It's a common misconception that raising the rear of the hood with washers will allow more airflow, but it's actually quite the opposite. If anything, you will draw air INTO the rear of the bay and not let airflow OUT because of the dynamics there. It's one of the reasons why the inlet for your cabin air is right that area draws air IN.

As I need some sort of high-pressure area then an immediate low-pressure one, I looked for what some call a "waterfall" vent. Raised lip in the front with a quick drop off right behind it. I believe this design will draw more air out than a traditional louver style vent commonly seen.

I was limited by the contours of the hood, so it was slim pickings. I wanted the GT500 hood vent, but those contours would not have allowed it. I found a place called Faircloth Composites that makes CF pieces for mostly the corvette market and saw he had 2 style waterfall vents, small & large. The small seemed like it would be a perfect fit.




As I wanted to measure twice and cut only once, I started by figuring my available space. The underside and between the contours:


It would be close, and I figured I'd have to trim some of the sides. Once space was figured, I transcribed the template onto the hood:

Arts and crafts time!


An intro vid made to describe some of the concepts I covered above:

Then it was time to cut! It may not seem like it in the following vid, but it took me awhile to get the nerve to cut into a perfectly good hood. I cried, whimpered, said a few prayers and even second guessed myself...but then, just went for it!

Here's the piece I cut, did a pretty good job of centering this in the hood:

When cutting was done, it was time to get the vent ready for what it would take to secure it.



After getting it mocked up, I sent it to be clear-coated (they are sent raw CF and need to be UV protected):


Credit goes to Absolute Collision out of Sacramento, CA for the outstanding clear coat job!

Finally! Install time!


I’m pleased with it. Not the most appealing to look at but will definitely work. I took it out for a few hours to see how heat would build and, although I have no hard data, I can tell it is doing its job big time. After lots of driving, I would come home and prop the hood up and it would be very hot. But I opened the hood and it was barely warm. One piece to the puzzle that is heat management.



Granted, the real test will come in summer! Bring it on!

For those wondering what it did to the weight, the piece I took off weighed ~1.5lbs and the entire vent setup I installed also weighed it was a wash.

Optimal EXTRACTION is approximately 4-6" behind radiator. Glad its working for you, but you would gain more, having moved it more forward.

Optimal EXTRACTION is approximately 4-6" behind radiator. Glad its working for you, but you would gain more, having moved it more forward.

Yes, this was something I had discovered as well during my research, but again, I was limited by the shape, contour and space available beneath the, sadly, I had to make some's one of the reasons why I opted for the design that had the raised front "lip" area to create that low-pressure zone behind it for increased extraction. In the design specs you are mentioning, the front of the vehicle itself is typically used as the high-pressure area with that "drop" being the aforementioned 4"-6" behind that, which also creates (yes, more efficiently than my install, granted) that low-pressure extraction area.

My install is closer in layout to the hood vent seen on the Evo, which uses the raised "lip" to create a high-pressure area , with the low pressure immediately behind it for a vent that is located further than 6" from the radiator.


Any concerns re water draining onto the engine? Being in CA you may not get much rain though. ;)


Any concerns re water draining onto the engine? Being in CA you may not get much rain though. ;)

Nah, no real concerns. I don't live where it rains too much (although I am in a torrential downpour as I type ironic). It's not a daily driver and am selective about when I drive it. It is garage kept otherwise. As for car washing, it always gets hand washed and it's easy enough to stuff a towel in that crevice when washing.

But keep in mind, there are plenty cars that have vents from the factory. Modern engines are much more resilient to water intrusion than you think. That being said, yes keeping one dry is, of course, ideal.

Like anything else when modding a come in different shapes and sizes. This one was worth it for me...

My understanding is that the center base of the windshield is a high pressure area (think cowl induction), so I'd be curious if you are getting close to that area.

One thing you could do is the ole tape and string trick to see which way the air is flowing in and around the extractor/vent.

My understanding is that the center base of the windshield is a high pressure area (think cowl induction), so I'd be curious if you are getting close to that area.

One thing you could do is the ole tape and string trick to see which way the air is flowing in and around the extractor/vent.
The entire base of the windshield is a high pressure area. The cabin air filter inlet is on the edge of the passenger side of the car for this reason, it's "cowl inducting" air from the very side.

But thank you, however, I'm past the point of testing low/high pressure zones. This vent 100% works as intended, I don't need to see which way air is flowing around the vent, the design of it creates an already known high-pressure area at the very front of it. Engine bay temps are dramatically I'm happy. Onto the next project...

OK, I'm going to try something different here...

At times my posts can be long-winded. As such, I have discovered there are limits to what can be in a post on various forums. They are all different. For this one, it's no more than 20 photos. Well, that can a problem as many of my posts have more than that, LOL. That usually prompts me to have to break it up into parts and I just don't like how "tidy" that feels, never did.

Enter my website. So I've had a website I never really used for a long time. It was always going to be a repository of everything I do: builds, how-tos, links, a small store to sell the little widgets I make from time to time, etc. So I decided to use this a bit more. It's still under construction, but I'm starting out by populating my posts from here into "blog" posts on there. It makes it nice and place to see an entire project. Plus, it helps for those who are unable to see my photos on here for whatever reason.

Anyway, I'll post up the topic here as usual but provide a link to the particular post on my website. Let me know how the experience goes, if it's cumbersome, too difficult to access or any other issues. If it's just too unpopular, I'll go back to my old method...but would rather not.

Thats moving.
Nice job.

Well, was cranking out a bit of work on my built block yesterday. insulated the lower coolant pipe to match the upper one I did awhile back. This pipe was also ceramic coated by Jet Hot. Took all freaking day to deal with taking that lower pipe out and back in since I had the heads on. Working on this pipe is WAY easier with the heads off, but I missed it at the time of the build. Still, I was determined and got it done!






Possible game changer component?

There's quite a few weak points on the 6F55-based 3.5L ecoboost platform and for the last few months, I've been noodling through solving a tiny sliver of that long list...the low-pressure fuel pump. I'll be doing an in-depth write up here soon so I won't go into too much eye-glazing detail at the moment.

The intent here is a plug and play (well, sorta lol), PCM-compatible dual in-tank LPFP. No extra regulators, auxiliary controllers, Hobbs switches, etc. This has the potential to crack the ceiling on fuel delivery for extreme e85 applications. As some of you know, the low pressure side can't keep up, even with a DW300c.

When I get the controlling portion nailed down (working with a fueling company to develop a FPDM replacement that can push the dual pumps as well as work 100% with factory PCM). I still don't know 100% if this will work, but all signs point to yes. This is a mod geared towards those shooting for the upper levels of power output. I will keep everyone posted on my progress as well as a build list on how to make this conversion when I've ironed out all the specifics. Thanks and stay tuned!!! Some pics comparing stock module with the dual one.









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Even though I haven't been posting as frequently lately (YouTube content or other social media), I've still been plugging away at this project. Trying to eat this elephant one bite at a time. Here's a bit of an update on where I stand with all my many projects pertaining to the Explorer build...

5th-Gen Explorer Epic Build Progress Update