How to: - ecoboost_xsport consolidated build/maintenance thread | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

How to: ecoboost_xsport consolidated build/maintenance thread

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
How much of a different sound do you get with your tial?
Over stock? Quite a bit louder. If you VTA your stock ones, it's a little more loud than that. Its not as high pitched as stock VTA though. Has more of a "whoosh" sound vs a "pssssst" one. Tial isn't known to be a loud BOV though. Greddy usually has that reputation.

Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!

Fuel Pump Voltage Booster (aka Boost-A-Pump) Part 01

I've always felt the weak link in the fueling system of our platform is the in-tank (or low pressure fuel pump - LPFP). This isn't normally an issue with mild to semi-aggressive builds as the addition of a higher output HPFP and injectors along with an ethanol blend and maybe even some methanol injection have been able to keep up with the majority of the demands of the platform.

However, the reality of it is that no one has really taken this platform to extremes quite yet. Those extremes include running straight e85 and/or wheel horsepower levels exceeding the 650-700 mark. It's those areas were serious fuel demands come into play and simply installing larger injectors and HPFP just won't do the trick. In order to address this high fuel demand issue, we need to look at the very first step of the fuel system, the in-tank pump. My breakdown of it is that, with those other components, you've basically got yourself a firehose nozzle attached to standard garden hose bib. At the extreme ends of the spectrum, you'll just never be able to feed that nozzle what it needs to truly shine.

I've recently began running straight e85, and already the cracks are starting to show in the armor. According to my tuner, we'd like to see a low pressure side reading of at least 80psi. Well, at WOT, we were seeing dips down into the 60psi range, and the HPFP would follow with a dip in output and/or increase in duty cycle.

Now, I have been preaching that the low-pressure pump is the weak link and to that end, I have explored many, many different options (surge tanks, larger in-tank pumps, etc.). None quite off the table, but most of them are very complex problems to solve and, frankly, exceed my limits of advanced fuel system knowledge. So, to that end, after speaking with Uwe over at XDI who was attempting to install a larger Bosch 400 into a stock fuel bucket I had sent him and found that it just wasn't quite possible reminded me of an old trick that may be able to be revived and used in our platform.

Enter the fuel pump voltage booster, known to many as a Boost-A-Pump, or BAP (although that title is usually in reference to the Kenne Bell version of the device). The theory here is, the more voltage to the pump, the more work it can do. Pretty simple, right? Well, it's a bit more involved than here goes.

The OEM fuel system in our platform is a returnless, pulse-width modulated, direct injection system. What that basically means is, there is a fuel pump driver module (FPDM) that is sending PWM signals to maintain a system pressure that the HPFP can use to push the rail pressures to above the 2000psi mark. It isn't like the old school pumps that just ramp up and down in speed to maintain that pressure, but rather, turn off and on at an incredibly fast rate. This means, you can't simply interrupt the voltage signal going directly to the pump, you need to interrupt the signal pre-FPDM.

So, on the advice of Carl over at Vapor Worx, I decided to go with the JMS version instead of the Kenne Bell or MSD. The JMS version has a reputation for having the cleanest output signal and has some pretty cool ramp in/out features that I found I'd like to use as well as being able utilize a 0-5vdc trigger if required.

It all began with the arrival of the pump:

It comes with everything you need to get this thing up and running. That includes a Hobbs switch for using boost as a reference if you are so inclined...

However, I really wanted to utilize the 0-5vdc trigger feature of this device as it allows you to fine tune a ramp in/out rate if you desire (and I do). So where do I get a 0-5vdc reference? Hmmmmm...well, you really DON'T want to tap into the MAP sensor signal as the act of tapping it can sometimes introduce noise into the system and have weird effects on the vehicle. You also don't want to tap into the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) as that can open and close at various positions not equating to actual fuel demand. I guess I could install a second, dedicated MAP sensor, but that would be over-engineering the solution. Why not just go with a solution that JMS already had in-place. Use of the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor. Because I like plug-n-play, along with the ability to "EDIT/UNDO", I opted for an off-the-shelf solution from JMS. They had a Ford wire harness for purchase:

But if you want to keep it on a budget and not purchase the adapter harness, simply splice into wire #2...

...of the connector C2040:

The accelerator pedal connection before installation:

After installation:

Since I was going to use the pedal position as my 0-5vdc reference, I had to see what the actual range of output was. Just because it is a 0-5vdc output doesn't mean it's at that exact range. Below is a photo of the voltage at rest (left) and the voltage value when the pedal is floored, simulating WOT (right):

This test was done key-on, engine-off.

Next was accessing the FPDM. Even though it is underneath the c-pillar cover, because of the way Ford decided to assemble this car, you have to remove almost the entire rear interior, lol....ugh.....

Here is everything off but placed loosely back into position, other than the c-pillar cover:


It was at this point that I did some data collection on what the FPDM is seeing. I have two Fluke meters so I decided to also see how that voltage compares to what the pedal sensor is putting out. Here's a video compilation:

I have plans to wire this in such a way that I can remove the BAP and put it back to stock relatively easily. This requires the use of my extensive Deutsch connector set:

Here is the JMS "wiring" guide and which wire is needed to be intercepted:

And here is the OEM wiring schematic along with connector C3239 pinout, the wire of concern here is wire #1:


Tape peeled back and power wire exposed (Purple/Green Stripe...Incredible Hulk colors, how appropriate for the POWAH wire, LOL):

Using a specific Deutsch crimper...
R_GnwjEZCcDqc?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none.jpg can make these male/female ferrule crimps:

One side done. Just one wire from the FPDM to this connector:

Other side done. As you can see it has 2 wires, one going to an existing ground. When it's connected in OEM configuration, it goes nowhere, but when it is connected in BAP configuration, it will be the ground for the BAP wire.

And here it is in full OEM configuration. I can easily connect/disconnect as needed:

Now onto the BAP connector itself. The wires are just cut wild when you get it from JMS, but I took a page out of the MSD book and used a DTP Deutsch connector end here as well:

Fuel Pump Voltage Booster (aka Boost-A-Pump) Part 02



Now to make the harness that connects the BAP to the FPDM using more DTP Deutsch connectors:


Going to leave one end wild for the time being until I identify where the BAP will be physically mounted so I can figure how long the other end needs to be.

For the time being, onto the mounting location and brackets. I decided I would secure the device to the roll bar that is in the cargo area. Thought it would look pretty trick and also be close to the FPDM.

For the base brackets, I used some 1" by 0.25" aluminum bar stock I had laying around. I cut two pieces 4.125" long and started measuring them up for some mounting holes:



I'll round the edges and make it look nice and likely powdercoat these as well.

For the roll bar attachment, I got 2 of the 1.50" Longacre mounts:

There was one small issue. The roll bar wasn't an exact 1.50", it was more like 1.55". Not much, but enough for it to not fit properly. I was going to have to do a little bit of grinding on I conveniently had a spacer laying around that was 1.50" with a shoulder of 1.60". It worked out pretty nicely to give me an edge to go off of:



I'll likely powdercoat these along with the above brackets. In addition to the brackets, I used some of these rubber isolators to give it some vibration dampening:

Here's the device mocked up:

Now I can start making the connecting wire harness. It's running behind the wheel well panel cover and up to the c-pillar:

After marking where I need to trim and where the terminal ends need to go, here's the final piece to the puzzle:

So, JMS calls for replacement of the FPDM fuse and upgrade it to a 30A fuse. Well, it just so happens, the fuse for our platform's FPDM is already 30A (the only green fuse in the photo). It's found in the Battery Junction Box under the hood, position F65:

Once that is done, now it's time to crank it up, do some testing setup and test this puppy out! This is a hot mess as I'm simply doing setup/testing to make sure everything works:

So, what settings am I using, you ask? Well, According to Deatschwerks, the pump is good for spurts of 18.0vdc. The highest I saw this at WOT was about 14.8vdc. I want to ease into it for now, so I'm not going to go over 17.0vdc.

So, I got it setup for maximum voltage boost of 17.0vdc. Using the pedal position sensor, I want to ramp it in using the largest ramp the unit allows for, a 1.2vdc sensor ramp. I have it set to begin boosting at a sensor reading of ~1.40vdc (~20% "throttle"), which means it is at full 17.0vdc at ~2.60vdc (~55% "throttle").

During testing at idle, it sees standard vehicle voltage, but as soon as the pedal is depressed, once it gets to the 1.4vdc value, you can see the FPDM voltage increasing. Now to take it on the road and see how it responds...

...road testing turned out interesting and I'm actually very pleased at the improved pressure readings. I did a log both before and after. Here are the results, all else was equal including the tune. This was a 3rd gear run from 2k RPM all the way to 6k RPM.

Before BAP:
Brown = Low Pressure Desired
Green = Low Pressure Actual

Before BAP:
Green = Low Pressure Actual
Blue = High Pressure Actual

Before BAP:
Yellow = High Pressure Desired
Blue = High Pressure Actual

Fuel Pump Voltage Booster (aka Boost-A-Pump) Part 03

With BAP (no tune revision):
Brown = Low Pressure Desired
Green = Low Pressure Actual

With BAP (no tune revision):
Green = Low Pressure Actual
Blue = High Pressure Actual

With BAP (no tune revision):
Yellow = High Pressure Desired
Blue = High Pressure Actual

As you can see, the low-side actual pressure was quite a bit better than the run without the BAP. This tells me there is a bit more flow. It could still use some help at the end, but it's markedly better.

So, now that testing is done, onto final assembly...

Here are those brackets rounded out:

And all the small pieces soda-blasted. I'm leaving it raw aluminum but may end up powder coating them once I get enough other stuff to make a decent size run:

Secured the wire harness behind the interior panel:

Final position of the BAP:

And I decided to leave that small c-pillar panel off permanently for weight savings! No, seriously, I'm going to leave it off as I may need to access this area from time to time. One issue is the seatbelt goes through it. I've got the airbag seatbelts so it took a few steps trying to figure out how to get that big click connector through the hole without cutting the panel.

Separate the plastic halves. They just pry apart:

You'll have to push down on the spring metal tab under this side of the pin and pull the pin out. The tab holds the pin in place:

Here is the pin removed, and you can see how it holds everything together:

And here you see everything separated. Just pull the belt through the hole of the c-pillar cover and re-assemble the seatbelt...too easy:


The trigger wire that goes to the pedal position sensor I am running down the other side of the vehicle. Here's the other interior panel off:

Running it down the rear passenger door sill:

Front driver doorsill:

And up into the foot pedal area:

Cool little cheap tool I learned to use when I worked at a car stereo install shop...a very large HVAC zip-tie (36" long or so) with the head cut off. This is an AWESOME tool for feeding wires through places...get em from your big box hardware store. It's definitely one of my "must-have" tools as it's been indispensable throughout the years.

Anyway, once the wires were run up into that area, everything was reconnected and tested. All the interior panels where put back together and all is done! Now to go get some datalogs!

So, some results after a tune revision (btw, I'm still dialing this tune in with Brad, so this isn't the final tune).

With BAP (with tune revision):
Brown = Low Pressure Desired
Green = Low Pressure Actual

With BAP (with tune revision):
Green = Low Pressure Actual
Blue = High Pressure Actual

With BAP (with tune revision):
Yellow = High Pressure Desired
Blue = High Pressure Actual

Awesome! Well reasoned and well tested to prove the concept. Bravo!!

I look forward to your results. And remember, the McDonnell Douglas F4 Phantom II proved a brick can fly over Mach 2 with enough brute power to push it! You will be in excellent company.

Awesome! Well reasoned and well tested to prove the concept. Bravo!!

I look forward to your results. And remember, the McDonnell Douglas F4 Phantom II proved a brick can fly over Mach 2 with enough brute power to push it! You will be in excellent company.
Well stated my friend. Now if I can just get this transmission to survive the onslaught it's about to receive...

Well stated my friend. Now if I can just get this transmission to survive the onslaught it's about to receive...
I didn't want to be the one to point out the elephant in the room...

Built Long Block Part 03

Built Long Block Part 01

Built Long Block Part 02

Small update. Things have been slow going, but I finally got the engine onto an engine might find it interesting, LOL.

Well here's the fancy engine stand I ended up getting. Sunex 8300GB, 1/2 ton stand with oil drip pan. I wanted one with an actual gear-reduced crank handle because, well...I'm lazy, LOL:


And even more entertaining is my engine hoist:

My Kubota you like THEM apples? LOL



Got a hold of some metric Grade 12.9 (yes, it's a thing) hardware. I custom-made some stainless sleeves to take up the slack in the larger diameter engine stand brackets. Makes for a super tight fit and no "slop".


Everything has anti seize on it! Sleeves and all...

Getting it loosely mounted:


I like to get the center line of the crankshaft lined up with the center rotation point of the engine stand.

And mounted!



Rotated...just because I can...

And finally, all tucked away for the time being:

And for those wondering what that shiny orange flexplate is all about...I'll let @bpd1511 of the SHO forum elaborate. All the credit goes to him for getting that brought to market!

That is one sweet engine stand! My buddy has the Kubota BX25D also, he loves that beast. Nice rotors and dual piston calipers setup on your Harley.

Why is the engine on the stand now? Those camlobes are pretty impressive :popcorn:

Thanks. This is the motor I had built by RMB (see post #53 and #54) that I haven't gotten to put into the car yet. I still have my stock block in the car. I'm doing all my tuning and experimenting with the stock one and in a bit here, will install the RMB motor.

That is one sweet engine stand! My buddy has the Kubota BX25D also, he loves that beast. Nice rotors and dual piston calipers setup on your Harley.
Thanks! Yeah, if you got Instagram you can check out the build for the bike on a separate page I have for it. It's not as thorough of a build thread as this one is however.

I’ll start checking out your bike build next time I’m sitting on my a** with a couple of beers. You say it’s not as thorough of a build thread but you are detailed orientated and a perfectionist from what I’ve seen so it should still be good.

Access The PCM And/Or Wiper Motor

In case anybody wants to access the PCM and/or the wiper motor. It's actually pretty easy and accessible.

First thing to do is remove the wiper blades. At the base of the blades are bolt covers. They just snap onto 3 sides of the six-sided nut. Just get a flat-tip screwdriver and pop them straight up:

Once those are off, you'll have to remove the nuts off the wiper arm studs. Once those are removed...

They likely will be pressed on there pretty good. Flip the wipers up to give you some ability to wiggle the base. It's possible to remove them by hand, but easier if you use a tool to pull them off, usually comes in a nice puller set like this::

Here it is, ready to pull:

They pop off easily, usually with a loud "pop" sound, so just be ready for it. Once those are off it's time to remove the upper cowl piece. There are 6 plastic clips that need to be removed:

Just use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the center section of the clips. Sometimes they just spin without coming up. Just use your other hand to pinch the outer portion from underneath. It's also clipped into slots on the bottom of the windshield. Just pull the cowl directly up with some force and they pop out.

Here it is removed and showing the lower cowl:

To remove the lower cowl, you'll need to slide out to metal clips on either end of it, where it sits on the metal frame:

They are in there with some "bite". I used this tool to pull them straight back towards you::

Then there are 2 white clips more toward the center of the cowl, same place where the cowl meets the frame:

These just need to be popped up. It may tend to fall back into the hole, so you can remove them if you'd like by pulling it straight out. Don't loose them, LOL. Here is what it looks like when it's off the car:

Last thing to do before it will freely come out is, open the clips that hold the washer fluid line and pull the hose out. A small flat-tip screwdriver will open the clips, no need to remove them from the cowl:

And now you have access to both the PCM and the wiper motor, whichever component you are working on.



Pretty easy, actually. Just disconnect the connector for the motor:

Then remove these two bolts:

And here it is out of the car:




Also very easy, just undo both the main connectors. Do this carefully by lifting the hold-down/lock handle:

Then remove these two nuts:

And pull the assembly out. Here it is free of the car:

And that's it! Assembly is reverse.

Steeda Rear Sway Bar, Toe Link & Trailing Arm Install

Original Post: STEEDA Sway Bar Installed!!

This project started when I got wind of the recall Ford had for the 2011-2019 Explorer rear toe link. Started doing research to see if there was anything good aftermarket and found that Steeda made some stuff! Ended up with not only the rear toe links but the rear trailing arms AND the rear sway bar.

Awesome and easy! Thanks goes out to @UIN2IT and his install video

View attachment 322870

View attachment 322871

View attachment 322872

View attachment 322873

View attachment 322874

Comparison of the stock vs Steeda trailing arms:
View attachment 322875

View attachment 322876

View attachment 322877

View attachment 322878

Rear sway bar install video:

I have this same bar...put it in a few months ago... WOW...what a difference!

Question, I do not tow, just want better handling, do the trailing arms improve handling for someone who does NOT tow?

Laptop Mount

OK, this was a project that came about last minute and spur of the moment. I frequently datalog with my SCT and use the laptop to accomplish this. Typically, I just put it in the passenger seat and do what I need to from that angle. It always bothered me as I would have to turn my head very far away from the road as I start and stop the logging and it was typically very awkward. This wasn't really too big of a deal and I normally just dealt with it.


Well, fast forward to one of my datalogging attempts where I was also testing out my Dragy device and doing a 60-0 braking test. That didn't go over too well because as soon as I hit the brakes, I wasn't prepared for the laptop to fly forwards into the floorboard at full speed. Well, it pretty much destroyed the laptop, cracking the screen, keys broken off and my data cord ripped out to the wire. Needless to say, I was pretty upset.

Luckily I was in the process of moving everything over to a new laptop anyway as that broken laptop was my old one. So, not wanting to break my new laptop, I decided to take advantage of the fact that the Ford Explorer is also used as a police vehicle, with many options to mount police communications gear available on the market, to include laptop mounts.

So after doing some research, I decided to go with the RAM Mount. It's inexpensive, well made, has a good reputation and also made in the USA...

So here's the passenger floorboard before installation:

Pop off these 2 covers with a flat-tip screwdriver:

You'll expose the front mounting bolts. And it's easier to make room if you remove the T-20 Torx screws, but it isn't necessary:

After having assembled the base...
ciL0fM-26PwZT?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none.jpg will need to loosen the 13mm front seat bolts. You won't need to take them out, but will need to back them out pretty much the entire way, right before they come out. Once they are loose, you can slide the base bracket between the floor pan and the seat mounting bracket. The outside one is easy, but the one closest to the center console may need to be pried up and hammered in with a soft hammer or dead-blow.

Once it's in all the way, you will re-torque the bolts to 35ft-lb as specified by Ford.

Here is the base installed:

This is how I will drive 95% of the time as it allows full range of motion for the passenger seat, full access to the glove box and generally not in the way of anything.


After assembling the remainder of the components, here is the mount installed as intended:

And finally, I love the easier access and control of the laptop:

As mentioned, I won't typically drive with it, but when I do, it's very surprisingly sturdy with large tightening knobs and heavy steel brackets:

It does shake/rattle a bit while driving down the road after hitting bumps. Not much but it would likely get on my nerves if I was driving with it full time. Luckily, I'm not. If I were looking for a full time laptop mount, there are more expensive options such as the Havis Standard or Havis Premium mounts as well as an option from Gamber-Johnson. I'm sure there are a few more.

One of the things I like about the RAM mount is that it doesn't interfere with removal of the WeatherTech floor mats.

Anyway, one of those mods that make life a bit easier, but not 100% necessary.

You see the Wilwood bolt on front kit sold on the SHO FB forum?

Any thoughts about that?

You see the Wilwood bolt on front kit sold on the SHO FB forum?

Any thoughts about that?
You're not referring to the TCE kit, right? That kit is actually a SHO kit as well that I made work for the XSport.

But I think you are referring to Aaron's kits:

Mustang GT Brembos

He's a good guy and I think that is a very good option for a kit that's in between the Powerstops and the full TCE kit. He was asking me how well it would be received within the Explorer community since I'm always on the SHO boards and I told him it would do OK, but he'd have to come here to advertise it. I don't think he's done that yet. He might even be looking for a "beta tester" for the Explorer and may cut a price break for that. Can't confirm but worth asking him.

Just be aware that the brake line may need to be a bit longer and the adapter connecting to the vehicle side is likely different. We learned this when I went with the TCE kit. I imagine the issue is the same,

OEM vehicle side brake line fitting:

Aftermarket fitting:

Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!

Ya, i meant Aaron's kit, should have mentioned it beforehand.

We've treaded a bunch of messages on the SHO page, but he was unsure if the line he provided would fit. I'm coming up on needing a brake job so I was looking into his kit as an option, so I'm guessing I'd need that adaptor or something similar to make it work?

Would there be an "off the shelf" line i could buy or is that adaptor you have the only option? I know on my old Mustang, Goodrich made some OTS braided lines for the bolt on cobra brake kit that was popular at the time.

Thanks for the guidance 👍