Engine swap will not start

[TestPoint]

Oh! The joy of . . . .

. . . . kerosene!

It was 32 this afternoon in the garage but a few minutes of the Ready Heater fixed that.

I checked the resistance of the injector coils and got about 20 ohms. With power on the red lead I grounded the lead from the PCM on the two injectors I could get to under the manifold. No click. I consider that a pretty convincing report on the status of the injectors. So o o o o o o . . . .

I have a message into the Orlando Injector Doctor about reworking mine vs just buying their in-stock set. Sure as I send them mine one or two will not come up to specs in the spray/flow test. The rail has the original modulator on it. Everything on this engine is undisturbed as Ford built it in 2000, except, of course, all those things I am in the process of screwing up.

You make a very good point about the PCM expecting 65psi because of the tank mounted regulator. I added the external pressure regulator because putting the Ford version in the tank was going to be difficult and I had a return line to work with. The vacuum connection will go away. And I thought I was being so smart adding that.

I can get the intake parts sand blasted and clear coated now. At least it will be pretty even if it never runs.

 

[CDW6212R]

That sounds good. Is that FPR adjustable, I didn't look at it hard? I'd get the pressure running at 62-65psi or so, and lock it there. The computer will do great with that, the FPR doesn't have to go in the tank.

My used/rebuilt injectors are working great in my 98 Mountaineer, I wouldn't hesitate to buy more. I'll go with new injectors for a high dollar engine, but not for a normal car or rebuild project.

I'm cold here too, in the mid 30's lately. I have got to get my garage usable, push one outside if need be. Stay warm there.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Volvo fuel pressure?

. . . The rail has the original modulator on it. Everything on this engine is undisturbed as Ford built it in 2000, except, of course, all those things I am in the process of screwing up.

You make a very good point about the PCM expecting 65psi because of the tank mounted regulator. I added the external pressure regulator because putting the Ford version in the tank was going to be difficult and I had a return line to work with. The vacuum connection will go away. . .

As I recall 1982 was the year that Volvo transitioned from K-Jetronic (continuous injection) to LH-Jetronic (pulsed injection). According to my Bosch fuel injection book the pressure for the K-Jetronic was 70 psi in 1980 for most manufactrurers and increased to 78 psi in 1984. The pressure for a 1982 Volvo with LH 1-Jet was 36 to 43.5 psi dependent on engine vacuum. If you have the K-Jet pump in your tank there should not be a problem. If Volvo used a less capable pump for the LH-Jet then it and any internal fuel line may not hold up to the continuous 65 psi you need for the 5.0L. I suggest checking the specifications for replacement fuel pumps for your model.

You might consider hooking the vacuum line to the fuel pressure damper like the stock configuration. I think the purpose of the damper is similar to that of "stubs" in house plumbing to keep the pipes from knocking when faucets are turned on and off. Fuel like water does not expand and contract like air and transfers shock. The plumbing stubs are contain air just like the fuel pressure damper. Connecting the damper to vacuum will replicate its designed environment.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Which PCM?

I just looked thru your PATS thread and realized I don't know which PCM you're using. At one point you were using a 1997 PCM to avoid the PATS issue and at another point you had a custom tune in a 2000 PCM to defeat PATS. Which was is currently installed and the fuel pressure regulator/vacuum needs to match it.

 

[TestPoint]

My car was a Diesel and did not have a fuel pump . . . at all. Added the standard tank lift pump and a pressure pump from an '83. Unsure of the answer to your question I had, on installation, tested to see what the pump would produce. It ran to over 95 psi so it is dumping a lot of gas back to the tank adjusted at 65.

I think the rail modulator is there to address the 'hammer' issue and the regulator vacuum modified rail pressure under low/high vacuum/throttle. Vacuum is handy at the rear of the intake manifold so it is no big deal to try it both ways. Thinking about the Ford configuration, I will start with the no vacuum.

I am back to the original '00 PCM so everything matches.

 

[2000StreetRod]

2000 pcm

I agree the 2000 PCM with the disabled PATS is the best choice. I think that the stock 1983 fuel pump should be adequate.

On my 850 Turbo Wagon the fuel line deteriorated and split (indicated by the red arrow).

It should be SAE type 30R10 for submersible use.

On my Explorer a previous owner had replaced the flexible hose from the tank to the rigid line with standard hose instead of the more expensive OEM heat shrink type. It was SAE 30 R6 which has a rated working pressure of 50 psi and a burst pressure of 250 psi and eventually split.

I purchased 3 feet of 3/8 inch diameter SAE 30 R9 fuel injection hose at AutoZone with a rated working pressure of 100 psi and a burst pressure of 900 psi.

If you have installed any flexible fuel hose in your swap make sure it is adequately rated.

 

[TestPoint]

Used high pressure Fuel Injection line for the very limited pump to hard line, hard line to regulator and regulator to rail sections.

Keep thinking about buying a noid light set to positively confirm all electrical operation but all sets I find only have a light for Ford TBI. I don't know and find no info on compatibility with the individual injector connectors.

Can anyone confirm that the Ford TBI light fits my harness connectors? Since I know that '98 and '99 injectors have different connectors I am not sure that the light will fit.

After a few calls tomorrow morning and lacking a better solution looks like I will order the cleaned/tested/matched injectors from InjectorDoctor.

Gotta get this over with!

 

[Turdle]

Do you "hear" the injectors clicking?

Reason I ask-98 down injectors will not make electrical connection into 99 up harness. The connector may "click" together, but electrical connection is not made. ( I know --confusing as hell)

98 down has a lower operating fuel pressure ( 43psi) 99 up-returnless is higher ( 60psi)
I do think for the returnless fuel system, you will need the proper fuel pump with regulator.

 

[TestPoint]

I have '00 everything. Mentioned a few posts ago that with 12v on the red lead, and measuring 20 ohms across the injector coils that a hard, manually applied ground did not operate an injector . . . at least that I could hear of feel.

The pump and pressure is as 'proper' as it is going to get. No reasonable way to install the Ford pump in the Volvo tank.

 

[2000StreetRod]

adjustable FPR advantage

One advantage of your adjustable FPR is when you get the vehicle running you can datalog the fuel trims at various engine loads and adjust the fuel pressure to neutralize the trims.

 

[TestPoint]

Gotta get it running before tuning. I would think that the PCM would use the O2 sensor feedback to manage the air/fuel ratio.

After a couple emails with the Fuel Injector Physician the injectors are going to the Florida Injector Spa tomorrow. With only 11k miles on the Ford OEM units I decided I would prefer to have them back rather that a mix of whatever met the flow rate match criteria.

 

[TestPoint]

Just straightening out my sock drawer

. . . with an update.

The injectors came back in about a week all purdy! Installed them and the thing started right up.

 

[wood1]

Great! Drive it yet?

 

[TestPoint]

. . . around the neighborhood. It is obvious that there is a great deal more torque and HP available.

First problem was that the thermostat had rusted shut. Fixed that and found that the engine driven fan is blowing forward. That just can't be right.

Since the car goes forward in drive the engine is not running backwards, the belt is on correctly, the clutch and fan are on correctly as they cannot be installed any other way.

All Explorer engines used the same fan rotation but I question if I have a wrong Ford fan.

. . . befuddled.

 

[2000StreetRod]

reverse flow water pump

When Ford went to EFI on the 5.0L they incorporated reverse flow water pumps with serpentine belt drives instead of V belt. Assuming the belt routing is correct maybe you have a fan from an old carb engine.

 

[wood1]

Could get a JY electric. I had one from a Crown Vic in my stang. Worked great.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's good news, great job.

 

[delexploder]

Awesome!

 

[TestPoint]

I would appreciate it if someone would measure the depth of the SOHC 4.0L shroud. My 5.0L shroud measures about 2.5" from the front of the front to the back of the back. This would be about the simplest fix I can think of.

Another inch would help a lot.

 

[delexploder]

Hey go back to your other post lol