F*cking Rant - Why Can't Things Be Simple? :mad:

[ihpj]

So...as we were in the US I decided to buy some stuff for Mrs. ihpj's truck (x5 Bilstien shocks, genuine Ford rear bushings plus misc. other items). While there decided that it would be best to use all new mounting hardware for the shocks too so bought full set of genuine Ford nuts and bolts for the job.

Managed to get the lot home without damage or loss; started the job. O/S/F shock replaced in 10 minutes - upper bolt came away with a little pursuation and patience while lower 2 bolts just snapped off - result, old shock removed and shiny new yellow Bilstien installed

Moved onto N/S/F - upper bolt came away nicely, a little more rusted, but nothing brute force and patience couldn't overcome. Attacked the lowers and the nuts just disintegrated due to rust. So now, I have no way of gripping what's left of the bolts to undo them

OK, calm down, move to rears. Lower bolts came away much more easily, removed spare wheel and tried to attack the uppers - would they come off? Like #####. Those f*ckers disintegrated again and rounded off

OK, I've still got enthusiasm for this, so decide to attack the fifth shock - got one set of bolts to budge but due to rust, can't get them off...I am SO F*cking pissed off its unreal. I have the tools, ability and competence to do this job, but due the f*cking rust piece of sh*t I'm stuck with rounded bolts!!

If I can get the bolts off, I can go ahead and replace these shocks; instead now I'm going to have to PAY my trusted Indy Mechanic to do this for me and it's going to cost me ££ to get these f*cking piece of sh*t bolts off and have him fit my shiny new shocks...to say I am is a f*cking understatement:

I F*CKING HATE RUST AND THE F*CKING GENIUS AT FORD WHO BUILT (AND EXPORTED) THESE TRUCKS WITH STUFF THAT RUSTS SO F*CKING EASILY AND WHY OH WHY WERE THE REAR SHOCKS INSTALLED WITH REVERSE BOLTS?



It pisses me off that I have everything I need to do this job myself; but due to rust I'm now going to have to pay for a job to be done that (all things being equal) I can do myself.

 

[swshawaii]

No mention of spraying penetrant and soaking the rusted bolts. You did, yes?

 

[janolsson]

I recently found that even with the correct size ring spanner you have to get the head on straight at the correct angle for the shock top nuts, one hand round one side to hold the spanner on and one hand to work the spanner.

 

[Bobmbx]

Use a cut off tool or a Dremel to cut the bolt ends off. That'll free up the shock. Its what the mechanic is going to do.

 

[ihpj]

I am tempted to start cutting **** off my truck; but as I've never done this before don't want to risk screwing it up more - so off to my mechanic it is.

Only problem is he has work stacked up until end of this week, so I'm going to have to wait a while yet to get my truck back

Stoopid rust
Stooped bolts rounding off
Stoopid Ford

 

[udnyexplorer]

same with me on rear but bought a set of worn nut extractors ie when placed on nut they have a lh thread so the try to cut into nut and hey presto nut off

lower bolts this was a grinder job to remove.......

 

[Bobmbx]

I am tempted to start cutting **** off my truck; but as I've never done this before don't want to risk screwing it up more - so off to my mechanic it is.

Here's a write-up originally from TowingExplorer, and has a diary of my exploits with rusted shocks.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262164

 

[ihpj]

Because I'm an impatient sort (and whilst idly browsing the web) it occurred to me that perhaps I could hire something like THIS or THIS to see if I can't loosen the bolts that I'm struggling with?

Only seems to be minimal cost (£24 inc.) and therefore surely worth a punt? After all, I'm only struggling to get bolts off and, if I can get them off with this type of tool, then I save myself more than a few notes and get the use of my truck back sooner.

Although I'll still need to send the truck to my mechanic for the rear shocks (those pesky upper bolts are proving tricky) the rest I could DIY - with hindsight I should have started this job having hired something like the above tools. So I am where I am, any thoughts on my bright idea?

 

[chrisquelch]

hi you could cut a couple of small holes in the boot floor do the job then screw plates in place ones job done .they will be under the carpet and there if needed again.
cheers chris

 

[ihpj]

Right, bit of an update:

Being as that I've been itching to get the toys installed onto the truck and I'm an impatient sort; I decided to tackle the shocks again - after speaking to Howard and soliciting his advice, I decided to tackle the shocks again. Collectively we both figured I had nothing to loose.

So I went at my rear shocks first. It was just four 13mm bolts standing in my way and I resolved not to be defeated. Using my 3/8" ratchet and bolt out set, I set about (patiently) tackling each bolt. Now, let me just say that if I ever meet the Ford engineer who designed these fixings, I will hurt him bad. The bolt outs worked a treat, coupled with a steady hand and daylight, I was able to remove each one in turn without too much issue. Just the restricted space meant I could only attack each bolt couple of clicks at a time on the ratchet head, but I got there.

Both rear shocks fitted in about 2 hours this morning (the lower big bolts had come undone quite easily the previous day).

Bolstered with my new found enthusiasm and self belief I tackled the offending lower bolts on the front near side shock. Using brute force (read: BFH and bolt outs) I was able to undo these rusted and somewhat rounded bolts with relative ease again.

Took me 20 minutes to remove the old shock and replace it with my shiny new Bilstein - because I was being lazy I left the wheel on and simply jacked up that corner of the truck to allow me the opportunity to slide in the new shock.

So after a few hours of work this morning, I have my Bilsteins installed on each of the 4 corners. The fifth shock I will have to leave for now as that need more thought - but the moral of this story is as follows:

* the forum knows all; read threads, research the topic and ask for help from the learned folks and you improve your chances of success many fold.
* do not under estimate the value of a good quality bolt out set.
* patience, day light and plenty of time are good to have; in other words don't be like me and just have at it becau you're impatient
* invest in good quality tools. Having the right tool also helps, but if you have quality tools they will make the job much easier as sometimes you are working by feel only and need the tool to balance in your hand just so or have limited area to work thus requiring small incremental movements to achieve the goal.
* the Truck rides beautifully on the Bilsteins - go get some

(I wil post some pictures shortly)

As ever, thank you for your contributions and input.

 

[janolsson]

Nice work fella

.... I should have said a 13mm flexihead ratchet spanner is ideal for doing the rear shock top bolts, and also good for getting to the top transmission to engine bolts through the wheel arch if you happen to need to

 

[Anime]

Bolt-outs and such can be lifesavers. That's why it's good to buy such things whenever they're on sale even if you don't need them at the moment - they'll save you time and money over having to go get the stuff when you do need them, or save you from having to pay someone else to do the work when you're stuck without the right tools for the job or any way to get them.

Congrats on the Bilsteins and getting the job done yourself.

 

[ihpj]

Nice work fella

.... I should have said a 13mm flexihead ratchet spanner is ideal for doing the rear shock top bolts...

Actually a vey good idea; thought never occurred to me. I'll add a set to my buy list for next year (I only use Craftsman brand hand tools from Sears).

 

[ihpj]

Bolt-outs and such can be lifesavers.

Bolt outs really saved me on this project. What was annoying me greatly was the fact that I knew what I needed to do and how to do it - it wasn't a difficult job; just that the rust and bolts were proving difficult and I thought I'd have to pay someone to do the job.

On the first day I tackled the job, I didn't use my bolt outs (impatience I guess); but when I went back to the job, I used them from the off and boy did they work - really impressed by them and given what they cost, they definitely paid for themselves many times over on this project.

 

[tom.h]

nut splitter

Hi All

know it is a bit late but have you tried a nut splitter (they are very good) and easy to use.

tom

 

[ihpj]

Nut splitters were a thought, but given the location of where these particular nuts were, a splitter would not fit. In the end, good quality bolt outs did the trick.

 

[ihpj]

Seeing as the weather has been compliant and with the truck parked in my garage I realised there is excellent daylight which allows me to tackle jobs under the truck, I decided to have at the 'fifth shock'.

No I didn't bother with penetrating oil and all that girly ( ) stuff I just took to it with my trusty hand tools. Upper bolt was first: bolt head (15) and nut (21) and came away first time and with a little persuasion (yes penetrating oil would have helped ). Lower bolt however snapped off when I applied brute force (used my legs against the garage wall to push), but as luck would have it, it gave way right at the nut head

Given the lack of clearance under truck to swing a hammer my Good Lady had the idea of jumping on the rear of the truck to bounce it to work the shock loose - few minutes later, I managed to slide out the old shock.

Because the nut head is solidly bonded to the bracket (and it's retained about 1CM of what's left of the bolt), I've not been able to fit my new shock yet. I think that sucker needs heat to work it loose. So for the last couple of days we've been driving our truck without the fifth shock.

Now I know from wading the forum there is a lot of debate about the whether or not it makes a difference. Our view is it DOES. The truck has more 'lean' to it in the corners (roundabouts) - not provinces but definitely noticeable and feels 'softer' to us. As Howard will vouch, we don't hang about in the Ex. - we are folks who like to make progress through traffic - so possibly because of the way we drive, we notice the body roll more? Thanks to ChrisQ sending me a pair of CV axles I have lined up my trusted mechanic to fit them next week (yes I could do it myself but I'm being lazy) and will ask him to remove that offending nut so I can finish the job and fit my final fifth shock and then be really able to comment on our thoughts on the full Bilstein suspension setup.

Once again, thank you for reading

 

[ihpj]

Truck went into mechanics today, that lower bolt had to be cut off - and not in the easy way either. Mechanic had to remove the lower bracket entirely to get at it - thankfully those three bolts came away relatively easily..

Well job finally done and brand new fifth shock fitted

While there I also had the rear engine tensioner fitted as well. Too early to say if fitting this fifth shock has made a difference - previously I said truck definitely felt wallowy and my first initial reaction is that she is tighter - but I'll wait to reserve judgement until I've really put her through her paces in the coming days

As for the old rear tensioner, it looks and feels good and seems to have good resistance when depressed in my hand. So after 15 years and 60k miles I replaced it anyway. But this is the real issue: with the new tensioner fitted on start up the truck just purrs, there is no hint of chain rattle and even under acceleration she just *HUMS*. Although my old tensioner looked fine, it clearly wasn't as there is now a definite absence of any chain rattle at start up.

I'm surprised at how quiet the engine is and the difference the new tensioner has made. My advice, definitely do the OO12M kit but also get the rear tensioner done at the same time. I know the fixes to mine are only temporary in nature (chains will need doing at some point) but I might have bought a few years of trouble free motoring.

Apologies for not posting pictures I will, I promise!

 

[ihpj]

As with my previous thread, I have been rather remiss in posting updates. Rest assured Howard has suitably admonished me and I making amends

So, my shocks...

When I bought my truck, I made the decision to strip out the useless factory fit ARCs as soon as I was able to - regardless if they were working or not. She still passed 2 MOTs and I couldn't wait to get rid of the old shocks. When I finally managed to replace them, my suspicions were confirmed because they were totally shot. You could depress each one with minimal effort and on closer examination the rubber bushings had perished too. Although, despite the physical condition (rust) they were intact:

What did I choose to replace them with? Well it shouldn't surprise you to learn that I went non-ARC I did my research and settled on a full set (5) Bilstein HDs. Why 5? Well I figured if I was replacing the 4 corners, I might as well do the body shock too and replace the full set. Why Bilstein? Well (1) a quick search on this forum (and read of others) revealed only positive reviews; (2) they come with a lifetime warranty through Bilstein (only if bought in the US) and (3) cost was only $360 for the set.

Plus I know and trust Bilstein as a brand and have confidence in their manufacturing process and overall quality control; it just made sense to go with them. I also bought all new mounting hardware direct from Ford.

Enough talk, here are some photos of them fitted to the rear:

They do look lovely and add a dash of (bright) colour to the underside of the truck

As for the front:

And here is a close up of the top fitting:

We know how they look; but how do they feel driving on our roads? I have to say I am underwhelmed

With all the other parts I have replaced on the truck (bushings, drop links etc.) I had hoped by fitting these Bilstein's the truck would feel a little more sharper on the road and firmer in bends; but she feels 'soft' and I am left wondering if I should have gone with the stiffer Ranchos or with an offering from Explorer Express that just subtly lowers the truck.

I'm not sure what it is, maybe I am being too critical, after all good shocks should be unobtrusive and unnoticed during the drive. I have spoken to Howard about this and I will be looking to run my stock 255/70/16s at a slightly higher pressure to see if it improves the 'feel'.

I'm going to be sticking with the Bilsteins for the long term as I know they are a very good shock and will continue to perform well, in all climates and conditions. A good shock is unobtrusive and unnoticed and I guess thats what I have. I enjoy the truck, she has definitely less roll and lean and she handles very well - but I wish she had more stiffness...but don't let this put you off when considering replacing your shocks.

Any questions/comments/observations please post up.

 

[janolsson]

Hey dude
I know you have removed the arc so this doesn't apply now but I found that when I put the lifted shackles and wound up the front to match it stiffened the handling loads. So much so that I found it easier to get the rear out when honing