First Generation Ex - Fuel Pump not pumping

[Dignan]

Ok, good news and bad news....

The good news is that I got it done. I got a set like the one I linked above, but I got it from Autozone, it is an aluminum set that is pretty nice. It was about 19 bucks. So When I couldn't get the fuel lines off, I was worried I would break something if I pulled the lines too hard. Well after dinkin around with it long enough, I decided that if something broke, I would just have to replace it and yanked as hard as I could and it popped off. I guess I was just being a wuss. So with the lines off, the rest went smoothly. The strainer was snapped in half. I think that previous mechanic did screw it up and so the pump sucked up some debris. Got the new strainer and pump in, buttoned it all up and since the battery was dead, I jumped it with the Mountaineer and the Explorer started right up. This is where the bad news comes in.....

Upon completion of the jump start, I was coiling the cables and walking to the rear of the Mountaineer to put them away. The Mountaineer happened to have the rear wheels in the gutter so the rear of the car was lower than normal and with me looking at the cables instead of where I was going I smacked my head into the side of the rear hatch glass. I guess I smacked it pretty hard, cause the glass shattered and exploded into little pieces all over the place. It didn't knock me out or anything, but it sucked.

So as far as a conclusion to the project that this thread is about... I cut the trap door without removing the rear seat, which made it difficult to get the lock ring back on the fuel pump assembly, but it was worth the time saved by not removing the seat. If I would have yanked the lines harder from the beginning that wouldn't have been bad. The pump kit from rockauto had all the pieces I needed to rebuild the assembly (hose, clamps, strainer) and that was simple. Now I just need to put a piece of metal over the floor access panel, and I will be set. All in all, a simple enough do-it-yourself project for the average shadetree mechanic.

Thanks for all the help from those that gave advice.

 

[Turdle]

We'll call you hammerhead.

How is your head by the way? Tempered glass is funny stuff, you can hit it with a hammer and nothing happens, tap it on the edge just so, and it shatters.

 

[Dignan]

We'll call you hammerhead.

How is your head by the way? Tempered glass is funny stuff, you can hit it with a hammer and nothing happens, tap it on the edge just so, and it shatters.

Ha ha. I'll change my signature right now.

My head is ok, I have a headache, but I'll live.

 

[Ayegor]

I don't know what you are going to do about the glass, but I just got done stripping down a 98 Explorer and I've got all the doors and windows, including the rear hatch. I'm pretty sure the glass fits all Explorers and Mountaineers 1996 - 2001. I don't know about 2002, but if you are interested.... And I have to drive out to San Antonio from Florida in a few weeks , so I'll be travelling I-10. probably a good 300 miles from Lubbock.

 

[Dignan]

Thanks for the offer but I carry comprehensive insurance with no deductible, so it is being taken care of.

 

[Ayegor]

Glad to here it. Here in Florida, if you have comprehensive, your windshield will be replaced by the insurance company for free by law, no matter what your deductible. Unfortunately, it doesn't apply to the rest of the glass, your normal deductible kicks in. Of course, in your case, it wouldn't make a difference. Just thought I would throw that in for the Florida guys who weren't aware of it.

 

[Dignan]

I have been having trouble with a leaking transmission so I haven't been driving this at all since I fixed the fuel pump. I started it up several times while messing with the transmission without any trouble from the fuel pump. I thought I had put this fuel pump issue behind me. Well, I replaced another seal on the transmission and went to start the car to see if it was fixed. No fuel pump. So this pump has literally been used like 3 times for less than 5 minutes. When I was tracking down the problem last time, I checked all the voltage in different spots and with key on, engine off and all that. I didn't see any issues with power, but is it possible I have some electrical problem that is toasting the pumps? Where do I begin looking for that? Anyone had this sort of problem before?

 

[Roadrunner777]

Have you conclusively tested that the pumps are bad, as opposed to a relay or something? The only way electrical CAN damage a pump is over-voltage, and it would probably have to be a LOT over. The pump makers say most early failure is due to a bad fuel filter or some other obstruction before the fuel pressure regulator. This can cause overpressure and kill the pump. Or, you could have some silt obstructing the pump strainer, causing pump failure. I guess technically, this causes over-current on the pump motor, which is electrical.

Hope you have your warranty stuff straight!

I'm not sure if you were looking for diagnostic help, you seem to get what's going on. Best thing is to do the pump jumper at the ODB-IV connector, key on, and check voltage. A reasonable place to check is the impact switch under the front passenger carpet, and then at the pump connector behind the driver's rear wheel.

 

[Dignan]

Hope you have your warranty stuff straight!

Exactly. I do have a warranty on it, so I sent it back to rockauto and they have been great to work with so far. I haven't received the new one, but I'll update this thread when I get a new pump. I am going to try to clean the tank better to be positive that I'm not sucking any particles into the pump. Any suggestions on that? Also, any suggestions on anything to rebuild the pump carrier other than sticking on the new pump? I am still using the original carrier, so if there is anything else that wears out on them or has a tendency to clog or something...