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Solved Ford Explorer 5 speed conversion - Going Full Manual

Prefix for threads that contain problems that have been resolved, and there is an answer within the thread.
Been racking my brain trying to figure out the VSS issue.
I can use a little help here and put to me in Layman's terms if at all possible.

First off I need to go back over whats done to what so far.

The working VSS is plugged into the 95 manual harness.

The 95 manual harness is plugged into the 95 auto engine harness on the pass side 16 pin connector.

The 95 manual ECM is NOT reading the signal from the VSS.

I have gone over some sites that have the diagrams for a 95 ECM pin out.
Pin #3 is the VSS 679 GY/BK (+) side.
Pin #6 is the VSS 676 PK/O (-) side.

Here is the pin out on the ECM.



This is the manual trans harness diagram. VSS is pin #'s 12 & 16.


This is the auto trans harness diagram. VSS is pin #'s 5 & 6.

There are other wires in the #5 & 6 slots needed for the VSS.Here is where I get lost. I need help in placing the pins in the right spots. There is a shuffle here like a rubiks cube and I freeze up every time I try to figure this out. The engine harness is the female, and the trans harness is the male. I need the male end of the manual to go to the female of the auto correctly.

329 (pk) is the wire in the #5 spot and goes to the start signal feed in the CPP which is jumped at the other end.
570 in the #6 spot is a power ground. Switch to #11?
Remove (32) and replace with #5? Just cut (32) off?

So, if I am thinking this thru right,
#12m to #5a
#16m to #6a
#6m to #11a
Discard #5a (329)?

#2m to #4a
#4m to?????

Can someone tell me if I have this right? Also if you see anything else that needs to be shuffled around, please let me know as I have no reverse lights
Thanks in advance!

Here is an ALLDATA link, with every single wire connector diagram, schematic, vacuum routing, circuit pathways, on a 95 EX.

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First let's make the pictures viewable, for my neck.


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Gregg, you need to make a chart or diagram on paper. Try to use the pictures you have as references, and not write on them. Or make copies so you keep the originals unmarked.

Take notes as you need to to remark as to which wires do what on your working pictures. What you want to do is eliminate the wires that aren't needed any more, and which you have to have.

I see just one O2 wire going through the trans harness. The other one must not reach that harness, it breaks off before getting down there.

It's good that you only "need 10 wires" for the manual trans. That gives you extra holes that you can use if you need them. You can arrange them in any order you like if it helps you, but in any case be sure to finish with a new diagram showing the new proper connectors.

Make sure that before you pull any wires that you can clearly tell what each color is. If it's not obvious then labels those which may be faded or hard to see etc.

I see that not every one of those trans circuit #'s is listed in the PCM diagram. That isn't good if you don't know what it does. Just finding each individual circuit in both the PCM chart/diagram, and the trans harness connector, that is tough.

Doesn't the engine harness go directly to both the PCM and the engine? You are using an automatic engine harness yes? I wonder if it may be easier to use the manual engine harness. Don't swap it just on a whim, I'm only considering that the trans wires for it are right, and the engine stuff may be closer than the difference in trans functions.

Thanks Don. :)

The pass side HO2 feeds directly into the engine harness. Only the dr side is connected with the trans harness.

So, my thinking is okay here? If so, there is the wire (# 4m) on the engine harness side I don't know what to do with. Tie that in together? or eliminate it? I am not sure what its for.

Edit: Too fast for
I tried the manual engine harness. It has a bunch of connectors on it that do not match my components and lengths are diff. So I decided not to use it.

Study those charts more before going to far too quickly. You can move the wires as long as you move the matched wire from the other connector(same circuit). When you have to move a wire that's in the way of another circuit, just remember to move it's matched circuit wire if the other connector has that wire. Go slow in planning it, that's why I suggest a chart. On paper you can make all the swaps with lines or new circles(with number in it), to keep the matched wires together.


In a nutshell....Keep all the matching wires mated. It does not matter where they are in the connector as long as each corresponding wire are together.

I will use your fine advice and make a paper diagram and use it as I go, keeping a master copy untouched for reference. I will also make a finished paper diagram of the changes.

Excellent, that is the best way to keep up with things, and to return to original if you had to. I'm sure you have original pictures on PC right? Print several copies of those and leave one untouched, and work with the rest. Put the plastic locks back into the back of the connectors when you finish, they help to keep the pins in place. The wire terminals can(possible) be pushed out when you push the connectors together, if the locks aren't in place. So leave the locks out until you finish all the wiring, and put them in when you are sure that it's all done.

Take your time, and concentrate first on the ten circuits you have to have for the manual trans, keep the others somewhere if there is room for them. You have six potential dead holes if none of the auto wires are needed on the trans side. Night all,

About to attempt moving wires in the harness.

I am going to get the VSS, HO2S, & power ground mated to the engine harness.

The reverse lights use C140, the other end of this wire is in the 8 pin connector where I have the jumper for the start circuit. This will be done later as I will leave pin #8 loose for now as I am not sure what to do yet.

The one circuit I am having a problem with is on the man harness. #4 (C298) is a P/O wire that is noted for power hot in run. The auto harness has a P/O wire #13 (C315), but is for a shift solenoid from the auto trans.

The back up lights diagram show C298 as power to them. So this is kinda confusing here. Pin 4 & 8, are back up lights as I see it in the man harness.

Leave them alone? Connect them? Or place in a empty slot? Just not sure how to make the reverse circuit here.

Pin 14a is a sensor signal return -C359
Pin 15a is a Reference voltage- C351

Either of these used for reverse lights?

Edit: I see that C359 is for the TRS --not used anymore.
Edit #2: There is no C140 on the Female auto harness for the back up lights. So I am going to figure this out later. I know the 8 pin auto connector has the wires for it. I guess I need to make a separate harness for it.

Finished the harness pin swap. Reinstalled it. The Speedometer works! Woot!:bounce:

Around the block resulted in NO CEL. Time for a HWY speed run to see if the CEL comes back. Need to see if the HO2S throws the CEL, if not, double Woot Woot! :bounce::bounce:

Didn't smell or see any smoke, so I guess that's a good :D

Great Gregg, you've made good progress. I just got home a while ago, you've been busy too. Hopefully you have found the important circuits that differ in the two trans harnesses. Test it out well and check all of your functions, lights and everything you can think of.

Thanks Don.

Once doing it I found that pins #1 & #5 were a jumper. #5 was actually #9 inside. I left them alone even though they went to the old shift solenoids.

I ended up putting #4 to #13 and #8 to #3.

Used my Dremel and a drill bit to open up the unused closed holes on the connector.

Will report back after the test run.

Test run completed.

CEL came on for a few minutes and went off. Never came back on for a 30 mile jaunt.

5th gear @ 65mph was 1800 rpm's.

I still have no reverse lights. I suspected as much, but was hopeful after the harness reconfig. I will figure that out eventually.

The lunchbox locker in the rear makes for some interesting handling with a clutch. The binding it creates is released every time the clutch is depressed. Didn't notice it that much with the auto trans. Power is on demand with the manual, and I really like that aspect of it. Having an extra gear over the 4r is a very nice welcome as well.

Once the clutch is dialed in better, I feel this will be well worth the time & effort.

Another small step for mankind. :D

I have normal working Reverse lights! :bounce:

Who said it cant be done, and had to make a switch for it? :p:

With the other stock manual trans harness I had, I stripped down and removed the Purple/Orange, & Black/Pink wires leaving on the small connector and pins.

Made a new harness wrapping them in conduit tubing & tape. The connector end plugs into the RED 2 pin sensor on the drivers side of the trans. The pin ends go into the auto engine harness round 8 pin connector where the jumper was installed for starting bypass.

The Purple/Orange wire goes in slot 2. The Black/pink wire goes in slot 3.

8 pin round connector on auto harness. Gray on left side of pic


Diagram of same connector.


2 pin connector for back up light sensor on trans.


Sensor on trans.


Using this connector end from the old trans harness for new lighting harness.


Excellent Gregg, so the two trans sensor wires just needed to be routed to the proper pins of the engine harness?

As you know now, the hard part about rewiring things is the work involved before making actual wiring changes. That is great that you researched it and figured out the circuits to do that.

You don't by chance have some extra wiring from a 4WD auto Explorer? For my 98 electronic 4WD swap I'll need at least the two wires from an OEM 4WD Explorer, any 95-01 I think. There are two wires that are in those which are left out of the non-4WD trucks. I haven't started to hunt those yet. Aaron was the only other member to mention those, but he didn't elaborate on where exactly they were. Regards,

Excellent Gregg, so the two trans sensor wires just needed to be routed to the proper pins of the engine harness?

Yes, I found a reference to the reverse lights being in the 8 pin connector and with the diagrams was able to deduct where the circuits needed to be made.

You don't by chance have some extra wiring from a 4WD auto Explorer?

I have a complete 4wd manual engine harness that I purchased from another member a couple weeks ago. I do have the auto trans harness still. Not sure if what you need would be in there or not.

The site I have linked a couple posts ago has the wiring diagrams, schematics, vac layout, exploded views, you name it, for the entire 95 vehicle. Might want to look through it for what you need.


Thanks Gregg, that link to the reference will be very helpful. Figuring out which wires are special in the 4WD electronic system will be the hard part. I do have a lot of extra wires, so I can make a wire or two that will plug in correctly.

Now go drive it and break it in, change the oil etc.:salute:

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