Favemistke
New Member
- Joined
- November 12, 2013
- Messages
- 1
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- City, State
- Boston, MA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2001 Ford Ranger Edge
Hello. New to the forum, but wanted to share my experiences, to make things easier for someone else...
I just successfully finished replacing the front and rear timing chains and cassettes (guides), and tensioners on my 2001 Ranger Edge, 4.0 sohc, 4x4, auto trans. First off, do some research. First, familiarize yourself with the engine and procedures... Read ALL of 2000Streetrod's posts on the subject. Watch youtube videos by Cruzroy and McGyver. It is def. a 2 man job(for the engine removal), air tools and heat (torches) required. And, a weekend. I followed 2000 streetrod's post pretty closely and all worked well.
The OTC tools are not necessary.Perhaps the tensioner tool out of that set, but, that too, can be improvised. All those tools do is hold the cams in place and keep the crank from moving. Vice grips between cam lobes work just fine.
Also....if using air tools to remove jackshaft and crankshaft bolts, they wont move. They will move when torquing them down during installation, however. Keep in mind, when the camshaft bolts are loose, or the jackshaft bolts are loose, moving the crank wont move the cams because there are no keyways, offsets, (or timing marks) on them. Just make sure before final torquing of camshaft bolts, that the crank is at TDC. Use red Loctite on all bolts.
Timing the cams:
You can find TDC by rotating the crankshaft til the largest groove(double the width of the others) on the harmonic balancer is at 12 o'clock, or, if the balancer is removed, when the keyway is straight up.
The cams have slots on the ends that when timed properly, run parallel to the head, where the valve cover sits. On the passenger side (rear-RH), its on the front of the cam, the other is in the back. On the drivers side front chain (LH), there is a nub towards the front of the cam(for the cam sensor), that should face up. On the pass side, there is a flat cam lobe towards the back that must be parallel to the slot on the front of the cam (flat side up). See pics in Streetrod's post to see what I mean.
Also, on mine anyways, when removing/replacing the rear chain cassette, I also had to back off the head bolt closest to the chain area. It was blocking the old jackshaft gear from coming out or the new one going in.
Do not forget to drop the lower oil pan and remove debris and clean the pickup screen....you've come this far...Hope this helps someone. If I can think of anything else. I will add it. Thanks, Streetrod!!!
I just successfully finished replacing the front and rear timing chains and cassettes (guides), and tensioners on my 2001 Ranger Edge, 4.0 sohc, 4x4, auto trans. First off, do some research. First, familiarize yourself with the engine and procedures... Read ALL of 2000Streetrod's posts on the subject. Watch youtube videos by Cruzroy and McGyver. It is def. a 2 man job(for the engine removal), air tools and heat (torches) required. And, a weekend. I followed 2000 streetrod's post pretty closely and all worked well.
The OTC tools are not necessary.Perhaps the tensioner tool out of that set, but, that too, can be improvised. All those tools do is hold the cams in place and keep the crank from moving. Vice grips between cam lobes work just fine.
Also....if using air tools to remove jackshaft and crankshaft bolts, they wont move. They will move when torquing them down during installation, however. Keep in mind, when the camshaft bolts are loose, or the jackshaft bolts are loose, moving the crank wont move the cams because there are no keyways, offsets, (or timing marks) on them. Just make sure before final torquing of camshaft bolts, that the crank is at TDC. Use red Loctite on all bolts.
Timing the cams:
You can find TDC by rotating the crankshaft til the largest groove(double the width of the others) on the harmonic balancer is at 12 o'clock, or, if the balancer is removed, when the keyway is straight up.
The cams have slots on the ends that when timed properly, run parallel to the head, where the valve cover sits. On the passenger side (rear-RH), its on the front of the cam, the other is in the back. On the drivers side front chain (LH), there is a nub towards the front of the cam(for the cam sensor), that should face up. On the pass side, there is a flat cam lobe towards the back that must be parallel to the slot on the front of the cam (flat side up). See pics in Streetrod's post to see what I mean.
Also, on mine anyways, when removing/replacing the rear chain cassette, I also had to back off the head bolt closest to the chain area. It was blocking the old jackshaft gear from coming out or the new one going in.
Do not forget to drop the lower oil pan and remove debris and clean the pickup screen....you've come this far...Hope this helps someone. If I can think of anything else. I will add it. Thanks, Streetrod!!!
