Front Driveshaft ?'s for a 98 5.0

[Mbrooks420]

Well guys, I need some help. I have a 98 V8 with a bad front drive shaft. It's the transfer case side that is worn out. Is the flange/cup that mounts to the t case a cv joint? Can that joint be easily replaced, or do I have to have a driveline shop rebuild the front shaft?

 

[Turdle]

Naw
just go to o'rielly or napa and get e remanufactured front drive shaft ( prop shaft) for about 210.00

You'll need to measure between the welds to see if yours is the 22 3/4" or
23 7/8" version.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Yowser, I was hoping I could get away a bit cheaper. Oh well. I need to get it taken care of. It's about to come apart. I guess it could be worse, I was afraid it was the front diffy.

 

[CDW6212R]

Decent low mileage units are getting hard to find, $50 used to be a good price. That's the one part that has died in my 98 truck.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Called around today. Rebuilding the one I have would be around $250. I found them remanned for $189-220 with core charges from $8-75. The junkyards wanted $175-200.

 

[CDW6212R]

There is another choice that I wish I had known about when I did mine. I had a shaft made, that was before anything other than the OEM shaft was available.

You can have a shaft made using a special aftermarket flange that fits into the TC six bolt output. A shop here showed it to me(in stock), and said that it would be about $45. You could build a shaft to use u-joints instead of the CV. The downside is that it might cost as much, but it would be serviceable by you anytime in the future.

I would suggest looking at the threads where Evan built a used front shaft for his BW4406 swap. You could use the special AWD TC flange I mentioned, with his idea. The result is a double cardon shaft, which should stop vibrations. Regards,

 

[Turdle]

I have a awd case to toyota flange adapter.
I just don't know what to do with it.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I was looking at that yesterday. I need to have a different drive shaft shortened tomorrow, so maybe I'll ask about converting a shaft over to a DC setup.

 

[CDW6212R]

The length of those 96/97 Sport shafts is the question I would work on if I went that route. It depends on where you are and what used parts and shops charge there. You might find a shaft in a yard for $50 and pay $75 for the odd rear flange and u-joints. That might be the cheapest if luck is with you.

With there being two different stock shaft lengths and some people with body lifts, what you need may be different. Did Evan list the length of that used shaft he made, the main section from the Sport? With that you could figure out if those would work for you.

Be careful while driving without the front AWD shaft, it can roll away slowly in park. Don't leave it on inclines, and always use the parking brake. Regards,

 

[Mbrooks420]

Too much road salt here for parking brakes. This truck's e brake has never worked, and I totally removed the setup from the 96. I'll just park up against the building at work, and in the dip in front of my garage. I'll only need a a few days to get it straightened out.

 

[CDW6212R]

That sounds good. I hunted for details of that odd used shaft, I forgot what thread it was in. It may be a little long being that it was for the BW4406, my front shaft is about 3" longer than the stock AWD shaft.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Humm, I guess I sold my stocker driveshaft too cheap @ $50 shipped when I removed my AWD case.

 

[CDW6212R]

Well I gave $50 for my current AWD front shaft, but I've added over 70k miles to it. There aren't going to be many decent used shafts any more. There will be some, but they would be harder to find.

Evan, do you recall how long that Sport shaft you used to make the DC front shaft for your BW4406 swap? I'm thinking that those stock Sport shafts would be the cheapest way to build a better AWD front shaft. It would need to be shortened a couple of inches I'd say. Night,

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Well- I didn't really use the main portion of the sport shaft, only the flange on the double cardan end of the shaft. I used a Jeep Cherokee driveshaft for the main portion, the flange from the sport to bolt to the front output of the transfer case.

I think the adapter flange mentioned is the way to go for a person wanting a superior AWD shaft.

 

[CDW6212R]

Okay sorry, then that Jeep shaft is what he and others might want. That odd adapter flange I'd bet is not hard to get if you know how to identify it. My shop here had it laying within sight when I asked him about it.

Did you say that there were two Jeep shafts from similar trucks? One of them may be the right length needed, depending on how much range the slip joints have.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Hmmm, My buddy has a Cherokee he totaled. Maybe I should take some measurements.

 

[Mbrooks420]

What would the ideal slip yoke spacing? Near the middle of travel?

 

[CDW6212R]

I would think that, the guy who did my front shaft made it towards the short side. The front doesn't change in length at all, so I'd say anything within 1/8" from either length should be fine.

 

[gear_grinder]

i have one with 130k on it and in good working condition, but if you have the cash and the means you should do the 4406 swap. its worth all the time and cash, besides, with the threads on the swap already it preaty much takes all the headache out of it.

 

[Mbrooks420]

The only way I would consider a 4406 swap is if my t-case went bad. And even then I would probably replace it with another 4404.