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Hidden Winch Project

It will be accessable through the grill (I can already imagine what a pain in the ass that will be)
I wouldnt worry about getting easy access to the engage/disengage lever. I hardly ever touch that thing -- as long as its engaged, I just reverse the winch rotation and pull on the cable (or have someone else pull on the cable if your remote wire wont reach).
 



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Just make it so when you open the hood, you can stick your hand down behind the grill, and flip the switch.;)
 






hey just noticed this thread. i like the idea. i've been thinking of different "hidden" winch ideas for my truck too, but in my case i would be able to build my bumper around the winch.
 






I wouldnt worry about getting easy access to the engage/disengage lever. I hardly ever touch that thing -- as long as its engaged, I just reverse the winch rotation and pull on the cable (or have someone else pull on the cable if your remote wire wont reach).

I just read in the past week that a winch will heat up more in reverse they are not designed to run in reverse for long distances. Any truth to that?

Just make it so when you open the hood, you can stick your hand down behind the grill, and flip the switch.;)

my hood hinges were worked over with the fiberglass hood so it's just 4 pin removable now :(
 






I just read in the past week that a winch will heat up more in reverse they are not designed to run in reverse for long distances. Any truth to that?
I havent heard of that but while running in reverse, you dont have any load (or weight) on it so I dont see why it would really do any harm.
 






My smittybult is hidden behind my factory front bumper. A little low for my tastes but works. I may do a custom bumper in the future. If I felt better I would take so pictures. but right now ain't gonna happen.

Tim
 






Update
! pulled the bumper and rigged up a jig to replicate the angle that the bumper bolts onto the truck.

For all the steel/strength guys- is this a safe plan? I want to make sure I'm overbuilding this since the bumper may not have originally designed for a winch. As I said before, it takes plenty of a beating so I think this bumper is up for the challenge.

Pic 1) original bumper

pic 2) I will weld in a 22" wide piece of steel tube 1.5" steel for an additional cross brace

pic 3) I will add a 1.5-2" tall 1/4" plate all the way across on that to make the back wall for mounting the winch level. Then I will make a 6" shelf from 1/4" plate (that will sit level, rear will be on new bracing, sides welded to existing tubework and rear and sides will be gusseted from underneath.
 

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Little update, This problem is moving along slowly but surely. I have braced the bumper to the frame mounts with additional plating to make sure it will not shift and bend.

RFR2212 brought to my attention in my "Welder" thread about bending his fairlead several timnes.

Anybody have any ideas? I was under the assumption the fairlead did not take on too much stress. I searched google and came up empty handed as how you would mount a fairlead above a 1.5" bumper. Closest thing I found was this which I do not plan on replicating because I want to use a hawse fairlead.
 

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Yeah the fairlead doesnt see too much force as long as your not winching off angle -- just dont go with like a pure plastic (Delrin, UHMW ...) one because those flex too much. If you're low on horizontal space, you can always run a smaller fairlead like those for ATVs. As long as you can get your line through it, you should have no problem. But that one on the Yota looks perfect
 












My roller flairlead is just mounted to 2 pieces of quarter inch plate. Much like how the jeep one is in the pic above.
 






Yeah mine was pretty much like that too.
 






i vote on the lower position, better to pull from lower, and if anything goes wrong, youll atleast have some metal protecting your body
 






i like that yota
 






Quick question....I'm not cheap, but damn is that winch rope expensive so I'm trying to be smart.

5/16 would work and I can spool 100' rated at 13,700 lbs
or
3/8 would be thicker and stronger but also I could only spool 80' from the reasearch I have done, rated at 19,600 lbs

the difference in a hundred feet is like 160 bucks to 220 bucks, I spend a lot of money overbuilding my truck but is this extra 60 bucks necessary?

That is for Amsteel Blue, is that brand ai'ght with you (ehemm, IZwack)
 






Oh geez my name was called so I had to run inside from the garage and see what tripped the alarm!!.

A lot of people use Amsteel Blue so run with it!!! RUN!!! 5/16 would be alright but I think the problem is over time, the synthetic rope looses its "strength" due to weather and sunlight (ehem, Danny) and from rubbing against things during winching (ehem, Danny). Sooo that 5/16" might not have the same strength after X number of years! I've had my 3/8 for about 2 yrs now and it will probably need to be replaced within the next year or so. My Explorer used to sit outside every day so it was beaten by the sun, rain, snow, ice and so on.
 






I havent heard of that but while running in reverse, you dont have any load (or weight) on it so I dont see why it would really do any harm.

When you power out (at least with a Warn) you are driving the motor against the cone brake. The friction causes heat.

No harm to the winch, but your synthetic rope may not appreciate it (long term.)
 






No harm to the winch, but your synthetic rope may not appreciate it (long term.)
Oh they come with this like protective shield for the first few feet -- its supposed to protect from heat and any abrasive in the winch's roller.

0804_4wd_09_z+safe_extraction+synthetic_winch_rope.jpg
 



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Roadless Gear

Danny -

Nice work! Here's what I use for my interior winch control, placed where the electronic switch for the transfer case used to be. . . Realize that placement won't be an issue with your one-off dash. . .

It's from RoadlessGear.com.
 

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