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How To: California Smog and "Evap Test"

good write up being I am one of the unlucky ones that get to do this every two years. I do have one queation thow about californa smog checks . my exploder always passes but just bearly on the 15 mph test part and only on the No ppm gas test. it is only about 4 ppm less then the max . the max is 501 ppm ave is 144 and meas is 497 so any one have a clue how to lower the No part on this test? on the high speed part max is 754 ave is 144 and meas is 208 . also max HC is 87 ave is 18 and my meas is 44 again at the 15 mph test speed . every thing again passes easy at 25 mph but it is all at the 15 that it is just passing. any ideas?
 



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...The first thing I would suggest is to re-read the " Some "Basic" things to do before a smog check" in the first post..I have repeatedly been given that information over the years when I asked the very sam question you just asked...

...Other than what was mentioned, check your stored codes...You may have something that requires service or replacement and not even know it yet..;)

...The last thing would be the cats...They do wear out over time and after having readings like yours, I usally ended up with a fail on the next Bi-enial smog test and had to replace the cat...I would then take the failed report to a good muffler shop and they could tell you if the readings were from the cat or not...

...It would be hard to say without knowing the maintenance history of the vehicle...IIRC this is from a little rich condition or your cats not being able to completely do their job to full capacity...

...Common problems on the 93 would be EGR, EGR tube, IAC, MAF, and other electronicaly controlled parts...
...I hope this helps...;)
 






Well I always do the things normally you should do before a check a day or two before hand. Clean the MAF pull codes or check for any make sure the cel light is working clean the air idle valve, pcv, air filter being it is a K & N and such. Right before fact I change the oil then drive there right after being it is about 30 miles from home to the check station. I have tried over and over to pull the codes and I get none at all the cel comes on now and then but only if I have been in stop and go traffic for a bit of been idling a long time yet I can not get it to do it at home so I carry the reader with me and still can not get any code because by the time I get pulled over and get it hooked up the cel go's out and no codes GGGRRRR.
The cats were replaced about 5 years ago and 60,000 miles with a universal three way cat also 2.5 pipes and free flowing muffler at the same time
The truck is a 49 state federal truck and has no egr system at all. the o2 senders were replaced about 20,000 miles ago same with a good full tune up including top line wires and bush 4 way platinum plugs. Like I said it has always passed but one time and that is why the cat replacement but each time it just passes but looking over the paper work it has been getting closer to the fail mark each time also and always in the slow speed NO ppm gas area.
 






...A couple thoughts for what you just posted and this is mainly for the other readers of this...;)

...:scratch:

1) I try and do all my maintenance work 2-4 weeks ahead of testing date...

2) I do my plugs/wires, vacuum hoses and any other maintenance within the 2-4 weeks prior to testing...My thoughts are that I want to have the vehicle at optimum performance for the test and I believe this is what you are doing too, but not allowing enough time for the computer to see the changes..

3) I did not see that you disconnected the negative cable for at least 10 min.'s after doing all your repairs to reset your computer and give it about a week to re-learn the changes that have been done...

4) You should get a lot better result with Autolite Platinum plugs rather than the Bosch 4 way platinum...There are several plug threads on here that discuss the various plugs and the Motorcraft OEM and the Autolite platinums rate the highest among the users...Double and 4 way's seem to have negative results from what I have read..:dunno:

Questions...

a) You are replacing your stock filter and box complete with vacuum hoses before the test?? ...Be sure to check and replace those hoses if needed...

b) When you clean your your K&N filter, do you wrap for about 12 hours with paper towels to draw out the excess oil from the filter???

...A thought on your disapearing code...

...I truly think from your description that you IAC (Idle Air Control) is your culprit...Sometimes they just need to be replaced...:hammer:
 






Further thoughts FWIW

i have the same problem with my 1991 after it's idled for a while in drive thru. or wheeling it slowly orsomething and either one of two things:

1) It trying to activate the EGR system which of course like you said you don't have Mine doesn't have it either.

2) the O2 sensors might be giving faulty readings thus triggering the CEL but goes away once the vehicle is moving again.

up until now i had been thinking it was faulty wiring since my O2 sensors keep rubbing on the headers. So i have been thinking it been shorting and causing the CEL.

typically on mine the CEL code i think has been CODE 41 but don't quote me on that.
 






Both of you make some good points. I have also been thinking along the lines of a bad IAC being over 200,000 miles and I have had the truck for over 130,000 of them and it has never been replaced that I know of just cleaned a few times.

The paper towels wrapped around the filter now that’s a new one for me and I may just have to try that one as a safe guard. so far I never have had an over oil problem but then again I have had oiled filters in bikes for so many years it was some thing I did learn to do right because I did over oil at first.

I do pull the neg battery cable some times but mostly I pull the power box fuse and relay let it sit at lest about 30 mints ( normally) I pull it when I first start and then replace at the end no matter what I am doing for two reasons . One to make sure truck can not start. Two to kill the ecu and reset it even if what I am doing dose not need it. For me it has become a safety habit after I had some one hit a key when I was under the hood one time. They did this to scare me and they did, along with me cutting my head jumping out of the way as now as I said I pull the fuse and I forgot to say I also pull the wire for the key start at the solenoid.

I have never been able to get a code yet when it has done this as the CEL will only light for a few seconds when I have my code reader with me. When I do not have it with me it will stay on for about one mile then go out. Never has it stayed on longer then a mile and half and that was one time. Out side air hot or cold makes no change when or how often it dose this.

I have changed all the vac lines looking for a maybe leak but found none. Then again 200,000 plus miles said just do it. It has the stock air box not moded at all

Only mods are K & N filter bigger exst. Pipes plug wires.

I also have seafoamed the whole fuel system three times with a whole can each time and done back to back. It did make deference in how the truck ran and made the things a bit smother and a bit stronger so I believe it cleaned up the injectors good.

Other then the bad gas MPG, the now and then CEL and the just passing smog. This thing has been a great truck with just normal care! Only major work has been a radiator, water pump, thermostat, and the ever fun auto tranny rebuild about 40,000 miles ago. But that is it besides normal replacement matnace things like oil brakes and such. O ya and the ever left front wheel bearing nut coming loose now and then. It has always been a get in it and go truck! to this day I would not worry about taking it any were on a trip well okay no hard offloading as it is not set up for that and has not seen much wheeling at all
 












Hi Tbars,

I have the same problem with my 1989 Ranger. The outer hose is cracked and it did not pass the evap test. Epart has the filler hose for $66.00 but it is listed for 1990-1997 Rangers. Do you know if this part would fit a 1989 Ranger.

A1 auto has the part for $115.00

How did you manage to change the hose without dropping the tank? I dropped part of mine to be able to take the old hose out and I barely could do it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
 






...I know the one listed for my Ranger (found in post #1) is stated to fit 88-97 Rangers with standard bed...It also comes with the filler neck already attached...

...A-1 was very helpful and sent the part out a.s.a.p...

...How'd I do it??...I gots skilz...:D...It actually may be because of the different body style...The hardest part was actually the very last thing, tightening the clamp...I used about 2' of extensions to actually tighten the clamp...;)
 






Thanks for the reply Tbars.

Must be the body style, because on mine I cannot even see the end of the hose. I had to drop the tank partially.

I guess I'll just bite the bullet and buy the more expensive hose.
 






up date on Calif smog check new add on check now

Just in case you did not know Calif has now also added a smoke and oil leak check now! Read up on it as it is some thing that can get a few of ya as they add this stuff to there list of checks. They have a goal that is not spoken of to much and it is to get what they call older gross polluters off the road for good. It almost seams like they think ( or not thinking what ever the case is ) that every one can just run out and buy a new car or truck when ever the state thinks they should. GRRRRR!
 






Just in case you did not know Calif has now also added a smoke and oil leak check now! Read up on it as it is some thing that can get a few of ya as they add this stuff to there list of checks. They have a goal that is not spoken of to much and it is to get what they call older gross polluters off the road for good. It almost seams like they think ( or not thinking what ever the case is ) that every one can just run out and buy a new car or truck when ever the state thinks they should. GRRRRR!

Link from the CA FAQ on the visible smoke test..

http://www.bar.ca.gov/80_BARResources/04_Miscellaneous/Consumers/VST_FAQ_1_18_08.pdf

~Mark

edit: more reading..
http://www.bar.ca.gov/80_BARResources/04_Miscellaneous/Consumers/TEXT_FINAL_MAILOUT.pdf

In short.. they are looking for smoke coming from PCV area or tailpipe AND for any visible fuel leaks
 






Oh, and don't forget - no more universal cat's, and you, as a DIY'er, can NOT do it.

Yea, it's now $250+ for me to replace the catalytic convertor on my zuk..
 






...Another bit of interesting info, for those who don't already know...If your vehicle is to be registered after May 19th of this year in California, your registration fee will be doubled...:rolleyes:

...My X made it but the Ranger is due in June...I already tried the, I'll pay in advance and it was a no go...:thumbdwn:

...Edit:

...Here are a couple discussion threads on the vehicle scrappage...;)
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=232855

...And cash for clunkers...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=235395
 






yea but don't they normally send out renewal notices 30-60 days before your tags expire?
so i would think you could slide in there before the deadline :dunno:

but in any case i guess i am in the same club with you since my Van renews in June also :fire:

Edit you know Ted you link the same thread twice right? ;)
 






...It's Final exam week for the Project X...

...It has been sitting with a broken radius arm and parked for a couple months...I pulled it out and had a code 85 - had to replace both the SPV and Cannister..
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=239949

...I then immediately received a code 22 - MAP sensor...So I had to replace that...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=241541

...Hopefully tomorrow, I can limp it over to the smog station and run her thru...

...I hate test...:p:
 


















...I just updated the first post with information on Borla Headers...

...It has a pdf link and if you ever have a problem while getting your 91-94 explorer smogged in California, and they question the legality of your Borla's, this is what you will need to pass Smog...;)
 



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...I am including another useful link to the first post..

*NEW CALIFORNIA CATALYTIC CONVERTER LAW
Effective January 1, 2009
 






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