The article seems to be out of order in the installation. The first thing you would do would be to set pinion depth. I use a T&D pinion depth tool (around $230). A beam style torque wrech (0-50 in. lbs.) is used for trial and final assembly. Once depth is set, then you would set carrier pre-load, then backlash and a pattern check. You wouldn't need mutiple crush sleeves as the pinion pre-load (15 in. lbs for used bearings, 30 for new) is replicated regardless of a crush sleeve being in place.
To clarify;
1) Set pinion depth. If depth tool is unavailable, just re-install old shim. As stated, they're a really good starting point. Install pinion into housing w/o crush sleeve and tighten 'til pinion reaches required turning force (measured with the beam style 0-50 in. lbs. torque wrench). The depth will be the same a when you crush the sleeve provided the turning force is the same. If you had a depth tool, you would measure depth, do the math according to the desired depth stamped on the gear and adjust your pinion shim accordingly. If not, then you proceed to carrier pre-load.
2) Carrier pre-load. Written pretty good above. There are tools to measure it, they're just beyond the reach of most of us. So, it becomes a feel thing. If it slips out by hand, it's too loose. It should take a pry bar to get it out. If it takes a 4 foot bar and a lot of strength, it's prolly too tight
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3) Ring gear back-lash. This is the final measurement before taking a pattern check. Also stamped on the replacement gears. I shoot for the higher number, i.e. .008-.012 I'll shoot for .012.
If you didn't have the pinion depth checker, this is where you'll see if you need to adjust the shim. Don't settle for close enough here. You'll regret it later. Get a perfect pattern.
But, you don't have to crush a sleeve each time you remove the pinion to change shims. So long as the turning torque is the same as when you crush it, pinion depth will be the same.