Okay, continuing on my list of how-to's it's now time to change the front hub/bearing assemblies.
Work was peformed on a 1997 Eddie Bauer 4.0L SOHC 4x4.
I purchased a DynaPak hub assembly from Advance Auto for $177. Seems to be a solid unit and I've heard from people in the past that have not had any problems with them. They do have a one year warranty against defects.
You should also purchase a new axle nut. They're not that expensive and since you're going to waste a lot of lactic-acid getting it off, you may as well put a new shiny one in its place.
Tools you will need:
Jack
Jack stands
Lug nut wrench (should be with your jack in your vehicle)
1 1/4" socket OR
32mm socket
1/2" drive breaker bar
1/2" drive ratchet
3/8" ratchet
15mm socket
3/8" drive 3" extension
1/2" drive 3" or 6" extension
8mm wrench
Rubber mallet
Safety glasses
Long bar that will fit over your breaker bar's handle
Anti-Seize
Lok-Tite (blue tube)
*If you haven't noticed by reading my other how-to threads, I am an anti-seize *****. I believe in the stuff very strongly as I tend to hang on to my vehicles long enough to run into these repairs more than once. So it's a good way to plan ahead for the next time and you WILL thank yourself when that day finally comes.*
Hub Removal:
1. Loosen lug nuts
2. Loosen and remove axle nut with either 1 1/4" OR 32mm socket on a breaker bar. Try not to use your ratchet as you could damage it with the amount of force you'll need to get this nut off. You may need a long bar to put over your breaker bar for leverage.
3. Jack up vehicle and support it securely with jack stands.
4. Remove wheel.
5. Remove brake caliper. Two 15mm bolts hold this on.
6. Remove brake rotor. This just floats on the hub so a few good whacks with your rubber mallet should break it free.
7. Remove dust cover. Three 8mm bolts hold this on.
This is what you should now see:
8. Remove the 8mm bolt that holds the ABS Sensor wire to the back of the steering knuckle:
9. Disconnect the ABS Sensor wire quick-connect under the front bumper and any other clips securing this wire to the body:
10. Remove the three 15mm bolts holding the hub assembly to the steering knuckle:
11. Hit the lug side of the hub with your rubber mallet a few times; it should break free. Then it just slides off the axle splines and into your hands.
You should now see this:
Notice the huge amount of rust, fried grease and debris that was in the hub/bearing aperture.
12. Thoroughly clean and inspect the axle splines and hub/bearing aperture. Use a degreaser spray if necessary. Lay a film of anti-seize along the mating surfaces of the aperture and center flange of the axle.
13. Install new hub assembly by sliding unit onto axle splines and pushing back until it mates with the steering knuckle. Put some Lok-Tite on the axle threads and install the new axle-nut (just needs to be finger tight at this point). This will help hold the unit in place while you line up the three bolt holes and install the bolts.
Since this is a piece that usually does not come off the vehicle until it's time for replacement, I choose to Lok-Tite the three mounting bolts and then torque them down.
Tada! Pretty easy, wasn't it?
14. Connect ABS Sensor to connector. The DynaPak hub assembly comes with new retaining clips to hold the wire to the frame. This was a very nice feature of the unit. Simply pop out the old crappy clips and pop the new ones in.
15. Reinstall dust shield, rotor and caliper assembly. DON'T FORGET TO TORQUE THE CALIPER BOLTS DOWN TIGHT!!! These have a very bad habit of falling off on people.
16. Reinstall wheel and lug nuts (don't forget to anti-seize the lugs!) and lower the vehicle.
17. Perform final torquing of the lug nuts and axle nut (250ft/lbs).
That's it. You're done! No more God-awful rubbing noises announcing your presence wherever you go.
Jeremy
'97 Eddie Bauer 4.0L SOHC
