How To: Replacing Front Hub / Bearing 1995+ Ford Explorer IFS | Page 8 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How To: Replacing Front Hub / Bearing 1995+ Ford Explorer IFS

it is not necessary to grease anything there, except lower balljoint and tie-rod end if applicable.

any area of the hub assy does not need greasing.
 



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I'm having a sort of "groaning" sound whenever I turn left and can hear a bit of humming when driving. It sounds like it's coming from the left so I changed out the driver's side hub assembly but I'm still getting the same noise, could it actually be the passenger side I'm hearing? I guess the best way is to change it out and see, but I'm just wondering if anyone has any idea of what else it could be? Since it's only happening when turning left and not right I'm guessing it would have to be isolated to a part of one side of the vehicle. Thanks.
 






i did mine a few weeks ago before i found this forum. i was real reluctant to do it at first but then when i actually looke at it and seen how east it was i was happy i did. this reall is a job that a novis could do. took me about 35 mins with no help, no how to no nothnig, straight off eying it
 






Did this last weekend. When I got the hub assembly off it was clear it was the cause of the problem. When I spun it you could feel the "looseness" and clunking. Big thanks to the thread starter for the very detailed write-up!
 






Phenominal write up!

I'm head mechanic at home and my folks place. This is by far one of the best DIY posts I've seen on any forum. :D :salute:

Note to anyone considering this task. Do both sides to assure that you won't be under your rig again anytime soon after. I have found over the years that it is almost always best to replace things as a set left/right. You'll also want to have a cold six pack waiting for you when you complete the job. Moral support and celebration. :chug::dpchug:

For the novice wrench men. It is proper to use some sort of thread lube on all fasteners in any repair or assembly as to eliminate binding and assure proper torquing. I would recommend using "red" lok-tite on the 3 hub bolts and the caliper bolts; and "blue" on the splash gaurd bolts. Also, a little anti-sieze or assembly lube on the axle nut to allow easier install and if you have to remove it in the future this makes things a little easier as well.
 






Hats off, massive thanks to NCC for this post. Did the job in about 1.5 hours. And to think I paid $500+ last year to have this work done on the drivers side. Again, much thanks
 






Sweet

Thanks for taking the time to do that man. Helped out a lot. FYI Autozone has the Timken hub for $149.99 where I'm at. It has the same ABS lead.
 






Well after 2 years sense I have bought this Mounty the front end has been making noise. I replaced the drivers side last week and what a difference. Now I am going to get one for the other side soon too, not sure if it needs it but I think it would a good idea to replace it too. I have already replaced the tie rod ends, and all the ball joinst, the upper arms, and all the shocks.



Got the passanger side on now, all feels fine so far.
 






Hey Im curious about this. My 98 Explorer sport is making a loud screetching noise almost like bad brakes, but i just replaced my brakes a week ago and the scratching didnt show up until last night so it leads me to believe its a bearing issue. it sounds like when my buddies F150s wheel bearing went out and im wondering if changing the hub might fix this.
 






Screetching noise

I don't know Johnny. I've replaced the hub and I still have the noise. I've greased the hell out of the slide pins and pad rails on my calipers too. To be honest with you it's driving me crazy! Is the noise intermittent? Mine is.
 






Yes mine is intermittent. its a high pitched screech just like bad brakes but just like i said i just did my brakes two weeks ago and i didnt skimp i used good brakes so i cant think of what it could be. it sounds like metal on metal just like my buddies F150 wheel bearings right when they went out that morning we heard the same noise and then all of a sudden the truck was riding on straight hub.
 






wobble

I replaced the hub bearings on both sides (right side was bad) one of the easiest I ever did but now I have a wobble in the front and the right side makes a clunking noise when I hit the brakes, it didnt have this problem before I changed the hubs new tires new alignment brakes about 4 months old rotors were turned but they were new also just took the glaze off. anyone have this problem after changing the hub bearings
 






Check your caliper bolts quickly, that is the worst thing which could be wrong. Confirm that those are tight first, then anything else won't be critical. Those large bolts should be very tight(lug nut tight), and have a drop of loctite red on them.
 






rust

just pulled it all apart again and found a small piece of rust behind the rotor about as wide as a quater which I thought I had gotten all of it, this time I did so that should take care of the wobble and the clunking noise .now to put it all back together and see and thanks CD I thought you just had to tighten them hand tight did not know you had to lug tight them I thought since they float being to tight would put them in a bind
 






Ah, the big caliper bolts I was referring to, not the tiny rubber boot bolts. Never remove those tiny bolts, unless you actually gut the caliper of grease and clean them perfectly, and replace the grease. No one does that, therefore do not touch those bolts. The chance of getting dirt in those boots with the grease is probable if you loosen the bolts, compared to leaving them alone. So, only remove the big caliper(bracket) bolts, they don't wear out and have no grease to mess with.

I'm glad that you found the problem.:thumbsup:
 






i did this 8 months ago . replace hub assemblies on both sides sounded and felt great however the noise is back ... please help!!!
 






arg not done yet

the clunking sound is still there I dont have the wobble but now the brakes go to the floor I bled them twice just to make sure the air was gone if any as I hung them from the shock so as to not bend the line anyone have any suggestions I am out of patience with this one
 






I'd be checking bolts and fluid levels first, bleed a little more if needed. The clunking sounds should be separate from the pedal dropping to the floor. For that I'd check the fluid, and then think of the booster or master cylinder.
 






Front Left Rotor

How tight should the rotor be on the hub when the wheel is off?
I have a wobble randomly when braking and think i might be the rotor. All the rotors and pads are new.
With the caliper off, the rotor will drop and lay against the caliper bracket. The caliper bracket bolts are tight as anything and the pins are new with new boots and fresh grease.
Any ideas? Did the rust behind the rotor cause the wobble?

Thanks in advance. I need some suggestions, anyone...please help!!
 



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4WD rotors are hats, they are held on only by the wheel. 2WD rotors have bearings and a nut that should only be about 1lbsft tight, (hand tight, rotor spins easily).

The 4WD hub nut should be as tight as you can get it with a breaker bar, 200lbs.ft.
 






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