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i need a supercharging plan..

can someone tell me where i can hook up the IAT sensor to?
 



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Your IAT sensor needs to go in a place where it can read the TRUE intake air temperature. Mine is placed right after the rotors as the air is being shoved down the intake runners, right after the intercooler. The key is to have it reading the true temp that makes it to your cylinders.

Do you have any room around your runner bay after the rotors?
 






does anyone know where i connect the 2 wires coming off of the aftermarket IAT sensor to?? the thought is to some 2 wires on the MAF, but not sure which ones

lots of people have been giving my wiring diagrams and stuff, and thats great, but i need them for a 2003 ford ranger 4.0.


thanks
 






How many times was it recommended by various people in here that you get the truck tuned after the supercharger install? I don't mean to get on your ass too much here but we don't give that advice for our health. You need a tune because the calibration of various things will be out of whack now that your s/c is on. While Ron is a nice guy and can do some decent machining I don't believe he has any custom tuning experience. The fella's here that recommended that you get your truck tuned, including me, do. Just because someone else "has done it" doesn't mean that it is a good thing to do. I have seen guys running 500+rwhp on a totally stock 4.6 V8 SOHC engine. They were very very lucky but that doesn't mean that you will be.

If you pay attention to the advice that we give you in here then you will not be lead astray. There are some of us in here that have been doing this stuff for many many years. We are here to help you attain your goals but if you decide not to pay attention then don't be surprised when you screw something in your truck up.

If you are anywhere near Alabama then give James a call and have him take care of tuning you. If not then find a local SCT tuner who has a good reputation and have them tune your truck in person. The cost will depend on what the tuner charges, how long the tune takes, and how much the dyno shop charges for dyno time.

Just noticed this post and want to clarify a couple items. Lifted 4.0 was told by me: He would be able to use stock tune to get vehicle running and tested without throwing a cel, provided: The stock 24-lb injectors, maf, 3.18 stock supercharger pulley is being used. He was also instructed to not push top limits of boost till he got a tune as it will lean out at top torqe/hp as I found on my first dyno run. I put the prototype on my vehicle at 92,000 miles and now have over 186,000 miles with no problems to date. I did put about 1,000 miles on it before I did the 2nd dyno with a tune for fuel and shift points only.

ROCKET 5979 is correct a tune is a must and I totally agree. The biggest problem is very few know what they really want and think more hp is better, but are not willing to do their homework!
 






Just noticed this post and want to clarify a couple items. Lifted 4.0 was told by me: He would be able to use stock tune to get vehicle running and tested without throwing a cel, provided: The stock 24-lb injectors, maf, 3.18 stock supercharger pulley is being used. He was also instructed to not push top limits of boost till he got a tune as it will lean out at top torqe/hp as I found on my first dyno run. I put the prototype on my vehicle at 92,000 miles and now have over 186,000 miles with no problems to date. I did put about 1,000 miles on it before I did the 2nd dyno with a tune for fuel and shift points only.

ROCKET 5979 is correct a tune is a must and I totally agree. The biggest problem is very few know what they really want and think more hp is better, but are not willing to do their homework!




Thanks for the clarification Ron. It is too bad how often people mistake the advice we give for something totally different. I am glad you came in here to set the record straight. :thumbsup:
 






heyy, soo really looking to get the IAT hooked up, and jah#### forgot the number, said that the manual will help me locate those wires, soo i will look that up, but i am planning on going to get it tuned this week, thursday probably...

while hitting high levels of boost, ABOVE 5lbs, will not having the IAT on the manifold throw the check engine light, because as ron said, i shouldnt of been putting the pedal to the floor...but i did go out and test it pretty hard the day i put it on....

sooo really im wondering..is the PCM sooo confused that it doesnt know what the temp is that it will screw up the A/F ratio??

thanks
 






heyy, soo really looking to get the IAT hooked up, and jah#### forgot the number, said that the manual will help me locate those wires, soo i will look that up, but i am planning on going to get it tuned this week, thursday probably...

while hitting high levels of boost, ABOVE 5lbs, will not having the IAT on the manifold throw the check engine light, because as ron said, i shouldnt of been putting the pedal to the floor...but i did go out and test it pretty hard the day i put it on....

sooo really im wondering..is the PCM sooo confused that it doesnt know what the temp is that it will screw up the A/F ratio??

thanks

Yes, the inlet air temperature is critical to the proper A/F ratio determined by the PCM. The computer uses that and other sensors to decide how much fuel and timing to use.

There is an IAT sensor connector on your vehicle. Find that and connect that IAT sensor ASAP. Don't drive the truck with more than part throttle until a proper PCM tune is installed. The project idea is great, but don't ignore the required tuning. That's what kills engines, pistons, head gaskets, valves, etc.

It's fine that you have a used engine to risk or sacrifice. When you spend good money on the next engine, don't risk it by running without a tune. Regards,
 






heyy, soo really looking to get the IAT hooked up, and jah#### forgot the number, said that the manual will help me locate those wires, soo i will look that up, but i am planning on going to get it tuned this week, thursday probably...

while hitting high levels of boost, ABOVE 5lbs, will not having the IAT on the manifold throw the check engine light, because as ron said, i shouldnt of been putting the pedal to the floor...but i did go out and test it pretty hard the day i put it on....

sooo really im wondering..is the PCM sooo confused that it doesnt know what the temp is that it will screw up the A/F ratio??

thanks

It will take about 3-days of driving to allow the computer to relearn on it's own. During this time whitout hitting it hard you should not throw a cel unless there is another problem, like a gasket leak. It would be wise to correct this problem first.

The IAT sensor in my 2002 ranger is still at it's original location at the maf. This does not give computer the correct temp to work with, but my basic tune was able to compensate. I have been content with my 5.5 lbs of boost, as it is my daily driver.

Now in your case you must verify you do not have a vacuum leak. Your rotors have been chrome plated and may allow for increased boost. The tuner if knowledgable will not give you a performance tune if the IAT does not read actual Intake Air Temperature, so relocation is required.

If I were you I would take ground off battery for 20 min to reset computer, drive truck normally with boost no greater than 3 lbs. If cel doesn't come on and you read around 20 inches of vacuum at idle, you might not have a leak. I believe the information I sent you last night indicates the IAT connections on the maf are E&F the two outside connections. This info was for the 2001 thru 2003 only.
 






yaa i tried that, reset it, and didnt even go into boost and the CEL came on 8miles later

and the manual doesnt say anything about the IAT connections coming off of the PCM....soo i think we have established that its the outer 2 wires, but which do i connect where is the question...there is a black and green wire coming off the IAT sensor on the manifold i think, soo one should be ground and the other??
 






yaa i tried that, reset it, and didnt even go into boost and the CEL came on 8miles later

and the manual doesnt say anything about the IAT connections coming off of the PCM....soo i think we have established that its the outer 2 wires, but which do i connect where is the question...there is a black and green wire coming off the IAT sensor on the manifold i think, soo one should be ground and the other??
Then I'd say you have a vacuum leak!
I know you don't want to remove and replace, but thats what happens.

PCM what does that have to do with the IAT? I'm talking about the maf connector right near the air filter, it should have a connector with 6-wires and 2-outside wires should be the iat sensor.
 






If im not mistaken one of those outer maf wires will have a 5v signal.

I don't think the sensor has polarity so the two outer wires might be able to go at either iat wire. But not 100% sure.
 






I think it's 5 cold starts that warm up all the way till closed loop as opposed to 3 days. Technically, you can acheive this in one day.

It's always safer to tune after a supercharger project like this. If you do not change the injectors or MAF, technically you can run the truck and the PCM will compensate to a point. In the tuning world, you want to be within 5% of the actual AIR/FUEL ratio that is being called out in the tune. The PCM will constantly adjust to keep the air/fuel at a certain air / fuel when you’re in closed loop and not WOT. The problem is you're now cramming more air down the engine at WOT. You won’t know if the MAF is starting to peg, or you won’t know if the truck is starting to run “lean” up top, which is not a good thing. Another pc to this puzzle is how hot the air charge is going into your engine. The stock tune is not set-up properly to run air temps as high as you’ll be seeing at times.

Pegging the MAF meter explanation – First, the basic way a MAF works is; there is a wire that is constantly being heated to a certain temp. This takes a certain amount of voltage to achieve the desired temp. When air rushes past the wire, the wire starts to cool, and so more voltage is added to achieve the temp. The more air you push into the engine, the more voltage is required to keep the wire at the “certain” temp. Once you hit 5 volts, you’re at the end of the range, and the PCM will no longer be able to calculate anything properly. You “PEG” the meter when this happens.

Going lean with the air / fuel mixture means there is less fuel mixed with the air rushing into the engine. This causes extreme heat that damages internal engine components.

Running too much timing for the air temp will result in pinging that causes internal engine damage.

Not to mention you’ll more than likely be able to pull out a few more hidden ponies.

-- Every truck and car is different in some way. Its good your getting it tuned.


For the vacuum leak - How much vacuum are you seeing at Idle?
 






i see 21 at idle, but it idles rough and feels like its almost gonna shut off...

should i try to bolt up the GT MAF that came with my kit..i didnt put that on because it didnt bolt right up to the air filter plate thing....should i just drill new holes and try to seal that with some silicone or something?? that would be a step in the right direction right??

and then still trying to figure out this IAT sensor would be great...


but anyone else, i JUST PMed JAKE and asked him...

"just general question here, do you know what LPH the stock ranger fuel pump is, and like how much of the stock 24# injectors are being used??

cause i have a CEL light on after the supercharger went on and both banks O2 are running lean, and im thinking about going to get it tuned and having them just dump fuel into it (switching out the engine in the spring...soo gas price doesnt really matter at this point, i just dont wannt the engine to blow!!)

is that a good idea? i think i might have the fix to the lean condition, but is that a plausible approach?? and how much more fuel do you think the stock stuff can provide

thanks man for the advice"

what are you alls thoughts on that?!
 






Okay, I'm starting to read the thread now. Let me give you some help here. You will waste a bunch of money trying to tune this if you don't have this set-up right. There can be no mechanically wrong with your truck. You can not fix the problem you’re running into with a tune if you're running the stock MAF and injectors.

What MAF?
What injectors?
When you say straight pipe, do you mean no more cat?

From what I gather, you're still running the stock MAF, bigger injectors, no IAT (Did you cut wires off the maf?) and no cats with the stock tune. Am I right?

Sorry, just trying to catch up quickly.
 






Stock everything eh?

Before you get it tuned, hook the IAT up where Ron suggests and clean the MAF sensor. Buy a can of Electrical cleaner, take the sensor out, and spray the wires clean. If you just added a new cone filter, you may have contaminated the wires with oil.

By the way, with 24LB injectors and 60LBS of fuel pressure, you should be able to push 275 HP and stay with-in the 80% duty cycle range. Anything over that you'll need bigger injectors.

Check, double check, and triple check everything you've touched. The rough idle and the 21 vacuum seems weird to me. My vacuum is around 18-19 and it idles smooth.

Another problem I saw in the pictures is the engine is dirty. You should clean it it may be mad. ;)
 






soo do you have any sckematics on what wires go where on the IAT?? cause ron didnt know what wires went where
 






soo do you have any sckematics on what wires go where on the IAT?? cause ron didnt know what wires went where

Can anyone help him with this wire connection? Poor guy has been asking all over the place lol. Wish I could answer that for you bud. I still think the sensor has no polarity so the two outer maf wires might go to what ever wire you want on the iat.
 






Can anyone help him with this wire connection? Poor guy has been asking all over the place lol. Wish I could answer that for you bud. I still think the sensor has no polarity so the two outer maf wires might go to what ever wire you want on the iat.

My post 70 and emails with pic's sent to him all indicate 2-outside wires?
 









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My post 70 and emails with pic's sent to him all indicate 2-outside wires?

Right but the IAT sensor has two wires. Does it matter which outside MAF wire goes to the IAT wires? Does the IAT have polarity. Because one of those MAF wires should have a 5v signal.
 






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