i need a supercharging plan.. | Page 6 | Ford Explorer Forums

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i need a supercharging plan..

i should really get my fuel pressure gauge hooked up, and order a wideband O2 sensor....thats a good idea....i sent you a PM jakee, if you didnt get it

umm, also wondering if the connection of the IAT sensor was backwards (wasnt toooo too worried about that i guess, because right now i didnt have a good read of the incoming temp anyway...soo???)

but there are def other things to try.

ummm fuel injectors dirtyy??? hmmm, we didnt take out any of the injectors in the install proceess..fuel rails stayed in place..soo dont know if that crosses that one off (assuming that by dirty you mean the tip were it sprays is dirty, that hasnt been touched and the CEL hasnt come on, if thats good logic???)

dont have EGR on my truck..PCV might be a problem, but isnt that just a vent or something?? i do have tubing there and maybe should try to put on the metal tubing so no kinks and such are pressent (dont think there are kinks, but would def eliminate them)
 



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Okay, so the IAT is part of the MAF in later vehicles. Thanks for that info, and I'm sorry for pushing the point so hard. The PCM needs the IAT signal, and I'm not sure if polarity matters for that.

The stock fuel pump is good for minor upgrades, and the stock rating is the same for all Explorers. Install a 255l/hr pump for boost.
 






yaaa noo problem, i didnt know why you were harping on that point soo much, cause i thought it was said before that it was part of the MAF, but thankkss for the insight.

someone on RPS said that in his application of the supercharger and relocating the IAT, he didnt think that polarity mattered either

i am wondering about upgrading my fuel pump right now...walburo 255?? or something is what someone suggested to me (gonna need it when i put the new engine in anyway...)

i told jake that i think sunday im gonna try to spend a good 3-4 hours or how long it takes taking the charger off...and then i just replace every gasket??
 






Yes the Walbro pumps are the standard, get the high pressure pump for sure.
 






i told jake that i think sunday im gonna try to spend a good 3-4 hours or how long it takes taking the charger off...and then i just replace every gasket??

Probably what your going to have to do at that point. Still wierd because the vacuum is still normal to high. But also do your best to look for cracks on everything while you are in there
 






hey, soo as some may know..i am tearing apart a V6 SOHC and then building it back up...its getting honed possibly soon (if it needs it? should i just do this for a fresh start, or is that sometimes overkill if the cylinders look really good)...going to have the valves done. unless there are some CHEEEEAPPP GOOD QUALITY heads that i can buy for this or something.....but im wondering what camshaft i should put in it...

i dont really know much about the cams at all, but i hear that you have to modify the springs and stuff with the 422 or something? and the 411 can go in as is?? i just throwing stuff out there...but what other cams are there...and yes, i would like this to perform well with the blower that will have the smallest pulley on it (m90) and some sort of low compression piston (weisco or supersix..?)

thanks!
 






soo i have learned that those cams are for the OHV motor..and that they dont really make any other cams for the SOHC...

but the engine build update is, block is all stripped of everything, i should def get it honed right? no matter how good/clean it looks?

ummm i contacted supersix and they said 775 for the pistons and such and they could do 9:1 compression (that is the ratio i want right?)...

other than that, is there anyway that i personally can tell if the valves need to be done, reseated??
 






What boost pressure do you have in mind? For a mild boost the stock 9.7:1 I think that is stock will work with 9psi easily. Contact James to discuss compression ratio before you randomly change it. The camshafts are designed for the compression ratio you have.
 






i dont exactly know what pressure it will be around, i was hoping like 12ish, but im gonna port the heads and such (time killer...have nothing better to do, its the winter and the engines not going in till the spring) soo i dont know if thats gonna affect it??

but im gonna be running a smallll pulley, w/m injection and PROBABLY nos to cool that charge...

but shott at me if 9:1 is not what i want for like 10-12
 






Get in touch with James, he Jake and others have successfully made big power with the stock SOHC engine. You can do much better by learning from a combination which is close to what you want, rather than starting from scratch. The compression ratio is a critical parameter, you need that and the camshaft to be right from the beginning. It may be better for you to have 9.0:1 or some other figure. I'd rather hear from James what he thinks would be best.

The trans is going to be a weak point also, think about not going to far. Merry Christmas,
 






James will say stay with the 9:7 stock ratio - I'm pretty sure of that. When you start lowering the compression ratio the HP will follow and if you can get away with staying at the stock compression then that's probably the best thing to do. Running higher boost levels will certainly start calling for the lower compression ratio's but I'm not sure how high of a boost level you'll achieve with the ported heads you're talking about doing. In short, I’ve heard the 9:1 compression level for the 4.0 SOHC is good for the higher boost vehicles and I’ve said this to you because of your goals and because of the higher heats the charger makes. Also, it’s common knowledge in the boosted world about running a little lower compression ratio than stock. If it were me, I’d do the forged pistons with either 9:1 or stock. Personally, I’d go with the 9:1 just to keep the engine from detonating with those higher temps. A 4.0 SOHC was defiantly not designed or tuned to have the IAC over 110 like you’ll be seeing. I don’t think anyone here has any experience with different compression ratio’s on these motors and what the differences are. I'd just get the heads redone with a 3 angle valve job and leave the porting alone. I would upgrade the springs to a little stiffer spring like one of the cobra engines. What happens with these 4.0 sohc motors is you start to get valve float at higher RPM's and certain HP levels. I can actually feel my truck quit pulling at upper RPM's and I’m pretty sure this is where the valves are starting to float. Anyways, I would then start looking for some sort of way to cool the air-charge, being it nitrous or meth.

Bottom line, do more research on the compression ratio with someone that has actual experience with doing this and not just someone’s opinion. After all, it’s your money you’re throwing to this project. - no disrespect to anyone meant.
 






im not the best with the heads and such, soo im gonna have to look up what the 3 angle valve job is...i know i was looking to have the valves reseated..if you have some quick info on anything you just said, please post it, cause im wondering how much that stuff will cost, the stronger springs and such, and what is involved..

thanks jake, ill keep looking around for compression ratios..but it seems like 9:1 would be better for detonation purposes with that much boost??
 






A high quality head job should include the multi angle valve job, but be sure to buy new matching springs to the cam. I have a V8 which I chose 9.65:1 compression because I knew that I would limit the total boost to 9psi. The higher compression will make more power at lower rpm's and normal driving. You want the highest compression, given the maximum known boost which will be added.

James and Jake both have stock compression SOHC engines, and are near the power limits of the transmission. Be careful about planning to make more power than that, I'd be very happy with the performance which they have so far. Night,
 






i could not find any aftermarket cams..i guess because there are none for the SOHC...soo you mean matching springs for the stock cam? soo i just need to look uup the definition of angle valve job i guess :)

ya i dont plan on making BUT loads of power..but somewhere around 300whp
 






Yes, then stick with the stock cams, compression, and have good head work done. A 3-angle valve job should be a standard at good machine shops. You cam make a ton more than 300hp with the stock 9.7:1 compression, using mild boost such as 9psi. Read through the threads of the trucks of James and Jake.
 






isnt detonation a problem when you get higher into boost? i know if im using W/M and nitrous..that will cool the charge SOME, but doesnt eh lower compression help with detonation?
 






Yes, lowering the compression does help. The other option is to lower the timing you're running and fattening up the fuel mixture - both will drop the power. The trick is to find the one that doesn't take away the most power.
 






Jake, what boost are you and James running, and do you both have intercoolers? The engine has to be tuned professionally, so the timing and A/F ratios will be altered to work with the boost. The addition of alcohol/water injection would allow more timing and make more power, but likely you will have enough power without it.
 






robert ray from RPS- S/C blue ranger

"You must also consider that I had alot of custom tuning on Dougs dyno. Without the nos and with water/meth it makes 289hp and 295+tq. Thats w/a 7# pulley and a LARGE nozzle of w/m that actually brought the boost up to 9#. Add the nos and it sees 10#s. I`ve seen it go higher on a cold dry night. This thing is pushed way beyond some peoples expectations, mine included, that theres probably a "pool" goin on between the members of how long its gonna last. Thats why I`m saving up to build it. I asked Dave at EE what he recommended as far as comp. and he said keep it where it is. With the low boost we`re putting out theres no need to drop comp. He had a x-charged mustang do the whole SSM heads, lower comp pistons, ect. and he said it FELT like a BUNCH of timing was takin out it was so sluggish. BASA820 said the same thing when he went lower comp. Felt like it was slower. Whatever you do, I believe the most important thing is a good dyno tune by someone who knows this engine well. "


will the lower compression slow down the truck..?? does that seem about right what hes saying
 



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Yes everything has to be planned to work together. The more things are designed to work together the more efficient they are. However also with a daily driver car you want it to be able to drive well around town on NO boost and have good throttle response and the ability to move the truck without always feeling that you have to be in boost. This is were you may have a sacrifice a small amount of WOT HP but you will be MUCH happier because of how the truck drives on the street. Then with a real good tune you will be right where you want to be!!
 






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