i need a supercharging plan..

[Jakee]

I think with Robert Ray's response and others in the Mustang world that have done engine work (I've forgot about some of them) that I reconsider my recommendation to lower the compression ratio. Now please understand that I'm only saying this for THIS SET-UP. (The M90 set-up that is limited in the amount of efficient boost it produces) - From the people that have tried this, the consensus is they loose too much power. They cannot just turn the boost back up to pick up the lost power so the mod of lowering the compression ratio actually hurt them. I knew I was treading thin water when saying to lower the compression but oh well. Anyways - I wouldn't lower the compression ratio - use the same as stock but see if you can find a forged set.

As for the porting of the heads, I’m still leaning towards not doing it. I'm not positive either way so you should keep researching. Again, this is for your set-up only.

I'm running 9LBS of boost and I did the entire tune. I canned all the other tunes I had from James and started mine over from scratch - It's all my tuning. Yes, I run an intercooler.

The no intercooler issue was the main reason why I first said to lower the compression for your set-up.

 

[rpcaster]

I think with Robert Ray's response and others in the Mustang world that have done engine work (I've forgot about some of them) that I reconsider my recommendation to lower the compression ratio. Now please understand that I'm only saying this for THIS SET-UP. (The M90 set-up that is limited in the amount of efficient boost it produces) - From the people that have tried this, the consensus is they loose too much power. They cannot just turn the boost back up to pick up the lost power so the mod of lowering the compression ratio actually hurt them. I knew I was treading thin water when saying to lower the compression but oh well. Anyways - I wouldn't lower the compression ratio - use the same as stock but see if you can find a forged set.

As for the porting of the heads, I’m still leaning towards not doing it. I'm not positive either way so you should keep researching. Again, this is for your set-up only.

I'm running 9LBS of boost and I did the entire tune. I canned all the other tunes I had from James and started mine over from scratch - It's all my tuning. Yes, I run an intercooler.

The no intercooler issue was the main reason why I first said to lower the compression for your set-up.

Jakee,

You are now right on!

He needs to first decide what he wants! His first response was add'l power to increase performance and pull a landscape trailer. Since then it appears as a desire for power! He (must) decide what he want's:

A) Performance on a daily driver or a (lot) of horsepower, and how much.

If he wants a good daily driver with 60 add'l hp to the rear wheels, then my setup will be reliable and work just fine using stock 24lb injectors, maf, throttle body, fuel pump. The only other requirements are getting rid of restriction after the last cat. 2.5" from cat to muffler is recommended. You should also go no less than 3" id from throttle body to the maf, with a cold air intake. If you get a performance tune the IAT sensor (must) relocate to the discharge side of the supercharger to read actual temp entering the engine. Here's some add'l info on the m90 from the supercoupe:

The supercoupe m90 is (not) the same as the MP90. The supercoupe m90 is designed for a max rpm of 12,000 while the MP90 is 14,000. Granted modifications can be done to increase rpm to 14,000, but heat becomes a hinderance. Boost above 6lbs also increases heat quickly. Sure there are options to ease the heat water/meth, intercooler etc. This now starts reducing the daily driver reliability, as mechanical components and precise tuning becomes a factor.

It's time to decide what you want!

 

[CDW6212R]

The total cylinder pressure before detonation is affected by the boost, and the static compression.

As you drop the compression, you can run more boost before having timing/pinging issues etc. The two factors should be balanced(optimized) for a given application.

If your intended boost is like the small Eatons, then you have a low or mild boost limit. With that you should maximize the compression to about the stock level. The more compression you have, the better low end power there will be, plus better fuel economy.

I chose my high compression for a 347 for those exact reasons, to gain as much normal street efficiency. That limits the boost which can be used, so plan as much as possible for the compression chosen. Pick the heads and camshaft to work with the compression and boost. I know that doesn't mean much for the 4.0 SOHC with the limited aftermarket support.

Think of the difference you read about with the 4.0 OHV versus the 4.0 SOHC engines. The big power difference can be identified greatly as being due to the higher compression of the SOHC.

 

[lifted4.0]

ookk, soo im getting the vibe, go for stock/or very close to stock ratio (9.7 to 1)....and deal with the amount of boost i can make with that without any problems?? weather it is 7#, or 10# just deal with what i get at that point? because 9.7:1 will give me the best daily driver (oor soo that is how i am understanding it?)

 

[Jakee]

Yes, the compression of the stock engine will go good with the amount of boost you'll be able to make with your set-up, and as others have tried, you have the oppurtunity to learn from them and not make the same mistake. (This is where the forums are very useful) If you were able to run more boost without maxing the charger out it would be a different story.


Also, because the charger is going to be maxed out with the smallest pulley on your set-up, there's not reason to try and spin it faster with a larger crank pulley - scratch that idea.

 

[turboexplorer]

ookk, soo im getting the vibe, go for stock/or very close to stock ratio (9.7 to 1)....and deal with the amount of boost i can make with that without any problems?? weather it is 7#, or 10# just deal with what i get at that point? because 9.7:1 will give me the best daily driver (oor soo that is how i am understanding it?)

Correct

 

[lifted4.0]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...arms=tab=Watching&item=360086640222&viewitem= im wondering if these green top ford racing injectors are gonna pop right into the V6 that im building??

thanks

 

[lifted4.0]

got some numbers from the dyno today..

2003 ford ranger 4.0 SOHC 5 speed.
JBA headers
straight pipe after last cat
rons kit (m90) at 6lbs
2.5-3 inch silicone intake KN filter

made 200whp and 248wtq

 

[turboexplorer]

Nice can you post the dyno sheet?

 

[Jakee]

You know what I say, but I'll say it again. With a 300HP goal all you need is a fresh 4.0 SOHC and a turbo. Done deal.

(And all the other supporting mods like, MAF, Injectors, Fuel pump....ect)

I'm not knocking these numbers at all but this is exactly why I posted the above statement at the beggining. You're looking for 300HP so you have a hundred more to go. Did you get it tuned or is this just numbers from the dyno?

You did good by getting it on the dyno and my hat's off to you. Keep up the good work and don't give up.

If all else fails and you still want to make the 300HP level, get the motor build and add nitrous. That will save you from having to redo the entire setup.

 

[lifted4.0]

noo thats with the tune...and the CEL light problem is soo far gone away...

yaa im realizing that it made be DEFINATELY hard to get to 350whp but im still striving for somewhere around 300...

 

[lifted4.0]

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee176/Landcruisin60/dyno.jpg
Mine

http://products.jbaheaders.com/assets/dyno/04rangerdyno.jpg
from JBA's website...

i dk if thats how you compare dynos, if it has to be the same dyno that does it..but just numbers wise.

the dyno i got on was a DYNOJET 248C

 

[turboexplorer]

Why where alternate numbers hand written by the actual dyno numbers?

 

[reserved50]

thats a guess at the engine horsepower which is higher. You would need more boost on this track and maybe better engine internals with it. With a proper tune and boost it may still hit 300, not sure how the sohc engines hold up. I didnt look into what kind of M90 it was but you can get them ported.
Do what was said earlier and keep the higher compression if rebuilt, about 9-1 -9.5-1.

It was also mentioned about "pegging" the maf meter, whats it reading at WOT at what air temp? You can tune the maf to fail safe when its pegged but thats silly, getting a bigger meter is easier to do.

 

[Jakee]

The only thing I can figure about the handwritten numbers is someone is trying to convert what the engine is making at the flywheel.

By comparing the dyno charts with the JBA dyno you can see – 1) the JBA dyno is with jba headers and wires; you have a supercharger.

I think there’s more left with this setup just by changing a few things. You can’t tell me a set of JBA headers and wires almost makes as much power as a m90 supercharger. Now maybe your engine is way worn and you started with very low numbers but you should be making more power than you are. I know I almost made the numbers you're seeing with just N/A bolt-ons. (189HP) and I made more changes that I never got numbers on so I may have been at the 200+ hp mark when I went turbo.

 

[Jakee]

the stock 4.0 SOHC should hold 300-350HP all day long with the proper supporting mods. People have went even higher than this without failure but were talking about a street truck so you have to have the power at a level the motor can stand thru-out a long period of time and not just one dyno run.

 

[lifted4.0]

i posted those in comparison, because i have those JBA headers on my truck ANANNNNDDD the charger....dont have the wires...and just have 2 feet of 2.25 inch piping after the last cat on mine..

and ya, the written in numbers are just the flywheel numbers...or a guess...but that doesnt make any sense that the supercharger, all the other accesories, and the truck being a 4x4 (i dont know if that matters if not in 4x4) only robbed 35 HP from the crank...

 

[Jakee]

You may be right about the 4X4 transfer case robbing power. Then again, I believe you have a manual as well and they usually see higher numbers.

The next mod I would do is an E-fan. Maybe a flex-a-lite 180. This will take some of the power that's being robbed from the crank and transfer it to your dyno chart. I'm thinking around 10-20 more hp with this mod and it's not too expensive or hard to do.

I’m not sure where the tuner set your timing at WOT. Do you know?

It looks like he was shooting for a 11.XX air-fuel ratio.

 

[lifted4.0]

noo i dont really know, they didnt really tell me much....but if you can get that info from the sct tuner, then i could tell you..cause thats upstairs,

ya i have a manual. how much are the E-fans...right now, im still trying to worry about stuff that will go inside the motor that im building, and get little other stuff later

 

[Jakee]

Do you know how to datalog with the sct tuner? If you do then do a couple of runs logging and post the datalog. We can then see where the tune is and if there's anything left in there.

Let me know and I'll tell you what to log.