i need a supercharging plan.. | Page 8 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

i need a supercharging plan..

i posted those in comparison, because i have those JBA headers on my truck ANANNNNDDD the charger....dont have the wires...and just have 2 feet of 2.25 inch piping after the last cat on mine..

and ya, the written in numbers are just the flywheel numbers...or a guess...but that doesnt make any sense that the supercharger, all the other accesories, and the truck being a 4x4 (i dont know if that matters if not in 4x4) only robbed 35 HP from the crank...

Get rid of the 2.25 flange reduction on exhaust. Run full 2.5" from last cat. You also need no less than 3" air intake. Supercharger needs air-in/air-out.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I am planning a complete rebuild of my 4.0 OHV possibly with the 4.3L stroker kit from Tom Moran with an M90. If this hasen't already been mentioned, I just talked to a guy from Eaton's super charger division per Am Car's recommendations to make sure I didn't need to make any changes with compression and he said optimum compression ratio for one of their blowers is 8.0 - 9.5 any higher and he said the "tolerances must be extremely close".
 






As long as you have the tool to tune the PCM and make the programming right, you can do most anything. I'd lean to a higher compression than the 9.0 stock OHV, the 9.7:1 of the SOHC is where much of the extra power came from. The small Eaton units aren't made for big boost, so keep it mild and the 9.5:1 or so will work well.
 






anyone know where i can get a right timing chain guide for the 2003 ford ranger 4.0 just the guide....ford sells the kit for like 107$...but i just need the one thing

and anyone know where i can get connecting rod cap bolts for the ranger..

thanks
 






anyone know where to find rod bolts for the 2003 ford ranger 4.0 SOHC


btw, trying to sell the m90 and kit!! let me know if anyone is interested

looking to upgrade to a m112
 






anyone know where i can get a right timing chain guide for the 2003 ford ranger 4.0 just the guide....ford sells the kit for like 107$...but i just need the one thing

and anyone know where i can get connecting rod cap bolts for the ranger..

thanks

You hurt the truck?
 






noo im building the 4.0 in my basement, which is why i need the rod bolts (found them from ford)

and friend said, heck, why dont we put a m112 on it, because it is built for power...and i was affraid that all of you on here were right about the m90 and not giving the results i want, sooo im trying to slap the m112 on there to make a little more power.

but for the time that the m90 was on there, and still is on, it has been great!
 






Try to find aftermarket rod bolts. Rod bolts are the weakest link in all Ford engines. Check with ARP, it's worth the insurance.
 






ARP didnt have anything that would match which would of been 800$ to machine, they were 55$ from ford
 






I figured that they had something. I have a 400 Ford that they didn't have bolts for 20 years ago, now they do.
 






yaa well how many people rebuild a SOHC? maybe a few do, but nearly none for power? my friend said he found a whole rebuild kit for the 302 ford for 310$ that included all gaskets, some pistsons, rods, all that good stuff....my gaskets alone were 250$...

but i have been told that the stock rod bolts should do the trick..i mean im not putting EXTENSIVE 600bhp through this engine? please let me know if you violently oppose
 






Super six should have the bolts you need. Give them a call. I'll be building this motor one day.
 






i got the bolts i needed, stock OEM bolts from ford..but apparently tom morona has bolts that will work on this...
 






I'd use the Ford rod bolts only as a last resort. If any aftermarket company makes them, they likely will be stronger. For my 400 I bought Pioneer rod bolts, and SPS nuts. Back then Pioneer was a very small step better than Ford bolts.
 






Yes, if you're building a performance version SOHC then by all means get something stronger than factory. ARP

Give supersix a call.

It would suck to buy forged pistons and have a rod bolt snap. That would ruin a perfectly good motor.
 






jeeezeee i guess i act to early on everything, i ordered the bolts from ford today....and now everyone tells me this...ya i guess you could say...ok, the bolts were only 60$..take the loss (the arent returnable)..and get the 140$ ones from tom morona?
 






You'll be fine with the new stock bolts. Don't worry about it. But use the ARP head studs.

For peace of mind, call supersixmotorsports and talk to Tom Yentzer. I believe they use the stock rod stuff on there engines. Get his take on the matter as a third opinion.
 






ahahah yaa i have been getting third, fourth, fifth and beyond opinions...so i talked with one of my friends, and he said, RPM and compression on the piston together make for a force that the rod bolt have to deal with but more soo higher RPM..and i dont know whyi would go above 6k because the power is somewhere around 5200

yaa ill talk to tom, as for the studs, i had gotten a few opinions from good sources that the stock ones would be good for moderate boost, but to be SURE, then go with the ARP....(its the cost that kills me...400$ or something)....the local shop was one i think that told me that i should be fine with stock head studs...untill i started to put nitrous in..which i decided against that...but we are trying to put the m112 on, soo that might be just as bad..

but what is going to happen if i dont have the right head studs? i might not want to hear it, but whats the worst that can happen...i know blown head gaskets can go quciklyy...what else?
 






Probably a blown gasket is all. Then you'll have to tear back into it. I don't think you'll be making enough power to worry too much, even with the M112. Heat will be you're main concern.

The failures I know about had something to do with the rods and not a lifted head but you never know. If in doubt, overbuild it. If money is holding you back, then buy what you can and pray. ;)
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





is my 350bhp roots blower, gonna be different than your turbo 350bhp, different form this other guys, centri blower 350bhp in terms of rod strenght? like if one of our stock head studs gave out, is that just bad luck...or something to do with how you are putting the air in??

oook you said heat will be my concern...soo that may answer my question above..(will be using a w/m injection to try and cool it.)


i figured, if it was a blown head gasket..cant you get to that without taking the engine fully out...?? and if soo, at that point, as long as nothing else was screwed, i would put ARP studs in

yaa...well im running into these unbudgeted purchases, and for a 18 year old, spending 4k was 1k more than i wanted......but my uncle is having me doing it right...build it once...(but sometimes i think that may be void if you are building it for power)
 






Featured Content

Back
Top