i need a supercharging plan..

[lifted4.0]

yaaa....very minimal i dont know how its measured, but degree wise...not that much, ahah i dont know, but the plan is to ad a idler pulley and/or take the one that is there and move it...so that we get more contact on the supercharger...soo that would interm get more contact on the alternator..

 

[CDW6212R]

That's what I meant, if you add an idler right at the corner of the alternator bracket, that would give you more wrap for both.

 

[r37ribution]

that's the m90 on there?

 

[GottaBigBlock]

never mind.....

 

[CDW6212R]

that's the m90 on there?

It's the Lightning M112 Eaton blower.

 

[r37ribution]

It's the Lightning M112 Eaton blower.

ah very nice... looks kinda small for a 112 I guess that's what threw me off. I remember them being a lot longer on the cobras.

I remember reading that he had weisco pistons. What else did you do to the bottom end?

 

[lifted4.0]

yaaa the cobra M112 is ALOT longer...cause the intake comes out the back, these lightnings come out the top.


this engine is the stock engine...just put the finishing touches on the built engine in the basement....

9.4-1 pistons, bored .030 over , pocket ported heads.....and thats about it for upgrades...replaced the timing chains and tensioners...besides that, there was really nothing else that i was willing to spend the money on....stroking was WAY to expensive....just gonna try to make the power from above now..

im only looking to go up from here.....getting this on was a huge releif though..now i can worried about trying to get it running alittle less rich (i know its possible...i just dont wanna spend the 125 for the dyno RIGHT NOW...cause im gonna have to spend 125...to dyno this new engine..) and then we are ready to swap the other engine in...

 

[CDW6212R]

As rough as the current thing is, I'd consider getting a tune for it before the other engine. How much would the tune cost at a dyno location you are considering? If the $125 would cover it then I'd do it. If that is just a basic test time and tuning might be more, that would be too much.

A tune for that engine will not be the same for the new one, but it would be close enough to make the other one easier to do. They could zero in on a fine tune faster. But you do know that a tune on a dyno isn't quite as good as a real driving condition test/tune.

 

[lifted4.0]

real driving test/tune? tuning it on the run..??

yaaa i dk, maybe i have to do that....get it tuned from them, but im not sure whether im gonna bring my final engine to them, cause i doint know if they know 100% what they are doing, i might go over the lake to NY or something.....they didnt make nearly the power i was looking for with the m90...that might not of been them, but i dk...they told my friend some wrong information, sooo im kinda sceptical..

 

[CDW6212R]

The tune is very important, but each location is different for finding a local tuner. James here has done many tunes by owner data logging, which requires a laptop and wideband O2 system.

 

[Jakee]

That intake is missing something. I think it needs some horns on it.

 

[lifted4.0]

ahah

 

[Jakee]

You're doing well. Keep up the good work.


I'm actually suprised it runs with the 42 LB injectors and stock MAF (I think it's stock, right?). That's interesting. I know I had to reduce some of the idle settings around 20%for it to be right. That and the SCT BA 2600 needed the curve reconfigured to get it in spec.

May I ask you to do a re-cap of what you're running or future plans? Correct me if i'm wrong.

MAF -
INJECTORS - 42 LBS
TB -
Fuel Pump -
Exhaust -


What's the next step in your plan?

 

[lifted4.0]

GT MAF 90mm i think,
42lbs green top racing injectors,
ford lightning twin blade 65 mm TB with lightning intake,
walbro 190LPH FP,
straight pipe 2.5 after last cat,
colder/smaller gaped plugs,
smaller pulley,
water/meth under chager hobbs switched at 4ish psi
ported m112 MAYBE, not sure if i wanna do that yet...

and then it also has the JBA headers right now...maybe some bigger ignition wires, dont knwo how far im gonna take that..but...i might be missing some stuff...

next step- i really need to get this thing figured out on this engine, soo that i know i have a working m112 for the new engine...other than that, im like 2 hours from being done the other engine, and i think im gonna try to put it in over april break for school....in 2 weeks..after that, do some little ods and ends, like ram air and other stuff and then get it tuned

 

[lifted4.0]

soo i tried putting the lightning intake with TB on this setup...wasnt planning on having the hood on....and i got it running, but it idled at like 2500RPM...? and i cant really turn the idle screw thing cause its like a stud...? why would just throwing the bigger intake/TB...get me all the way up to 2500 consistantly when with the other homeade intake i was at like 1500 and sometimes it was spuddering down to like 600 and as high as 2000 probably

 

[CDW6212R]

At idle there is a balance of air needed to run at a normal idle rpm. The IAC is there as a fine adjustment of that amount of air. I'd say that you have a much greater amount of air available at idle now, with the IAC not able to limit it enough or keep up with it. The TPS voltage is important there, it isn't far off from 1 volt is it, like 0.5 volts or 2.0 volts?

Check the throttle blades to be sure that they shut well, and the TPS voltage at that closed point. I don't know anything about a multiple blade TB, I think it just represents more air to work with.

 

[lifted4.0]

yaaa im wondering if i have to close up the hole more that leads into the IAC valve...but there is 1 1mm hole in each blade...i dont know if that is normal or not....but how do i check the voltage of the TPS?

 

[CDW6212R]

The hole in the throttle blade is a very good thing, it's an old carb tuning trick adopted by OEM. The holes add to the incoming idle air, along with the IAC. The total air is what needs to be adjusted. See what the TPS is at first, then you might try to close the blades a hair more. They need to be basically shut, and the air bleeding by plus the IAC(and hole in TB) is what runs the engine.

There are three TPS wires. One is ground, one is from the PCM and should be 5 volts, the other is the sensor return wire that you need to know. On my 98 it was the middle wire, test it by inserting a paper clip through the back of the connector, without removing it from the TPS. Touch the volt meter to the paper clip.

 

[Jakee]

This is from Ford Racing...

Idle Setting Procedure
Please Note: These steps MUST be performed in sequence!!
1. Get engine to operating temperature.
2. Disconnect IAC (Idle Air Control) Solenoid. If engine stalls, turn throttle-stop
screw in one full turn and restart. Repeat as necessary until engine will idle with
IAC unplugged.
3. Set idle using throttle stop. Idle speed will vary depending upon modifications
made to the engine. Set to where you are comfortable with idle speed.
4. Set TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) anywhere from .96 to .98 volts. This is done
by loosening the mounting screws, and lightly rotating TPS. If you cannot obtain
the desired range, you may need to make the mounting holes slightly larger. This
can be done by drilling them.
4a. TPS wire colors to be probed are generally the BLACK and GREEN wire, or the
GRAY/RED and GRAY/WHITE, depending on your vehicle.
5. Stop engine. Disconnect negative terminal battery cable for 15-20 minutes. You
may wish to tap the brakes or turn the headlights on and off a few times as this will
help to ensure that you have purged any remaining electrical current from the
vehicle. This will reset the computer to factory defaults.
6. Reconnect IAC Solenoid.
7. Reconnect battery cable to negative terminal.
8. Restart engine.
9. If problem persists, inspect for mass air meter problems and possible vacuum leaks.
JHD/Ford Racing

 

[CDW6212R]

That's good Jake, but not the TPS values. That step 4 is aimed at pre-OBDII vehicles. For all OBDII and newer vehicles the TPS voltage is taken from the TPS and set each time as the new idle voltage.

The idle TPS voltage just needs to be close to 1.0 volt, not dead on .990 volts(or .96 to .98 volts etc). If it's off 50%, such as .5 volts or 1.5 volts, then the TPS is bad.

Therefore, for an OBDII vehicle, check the TPS voltage. If it's not far out of range then leave it alone. Otherwise it's bad and must be replaced. Thus the screws never need to be loosened, let alone opened up. That only applies to pre-OBDII vehicles, and I have actually read that it isn't as critical in those as believed.