Installing a new all aluminum two core radiator

[Turdle]

If I recall, Ford dropped in the motor on assembly with radiator etc all attached, I don't think they accounted for radiator replacement in future. I just keep this truck around as a beater lifted play toy, rarely drive it anymore. Got it new beginning of college, 16 years later and 160k miles and doing all the work myself... I still have nightmares of that radiator replacement. Did the radiator almost 10 years ago lol.

The rad is on the core support so no. engine was in place when the body was dropped over.

 

[beach]

The rad is on the core support so no. engine was in place when the body was dropped over.

Maybe it was the core, I remember someone saying way back when the engine, radiator etc was already in. Either way, what a royal pain in the 5.0, probably why shop/dealers charge so much to do a replacement on one of these trucks.

 

[traveler]

It is much easier to remove when you can take out the condenser and radiator as one unit, then swap the condenser to the new radiator and put the assembly back in. But that involves evacuating the AC system, and recharging it. Big PIA usually, but my system was already empty in this case.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

The rad is on the core support so no. engine was in place when the body was dropped over.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

I also thought about mounting a water bladder on the roof rack hooked into the trans reservoir so I can have a hot shower when camping but I think a 12v electric water heater would be more practical.

::EDIT::

It has come to my attention a 12v electric heater may not get the job done when looking for a quick way to heat large amounts of water but that is a topic for another thread.

Thanks for the review on this radiator traveler!

 

[beach]

Yup thats what I meant, the engine was already in place, then the body was slapped on.... which pry left them afterwords going so how are we going to repair radiators? lol... thats what I meant

 

[bigred4x4]

I also thought about mounting a water bladder on the roof rack hooked into the trans reservoir so I can have a hot shower when camping but I think a 12v electric water heater would be more practical.



::EDIT::

It has come to my attention a 12v electric heater may not get the job done when looking for a quick way to heat large amounts of water but that is a topic for another thread.

Thanks for the review on this radiator traveler!

On board heated Shower thread pending. me, turdle, and gmanpaint, had a 5 page conversation on the topic I'm in the process of building one now. turdle has already tested his radiator set-up (the results were perfect) will probably post it in the offroad project forum FYI, so keep your eyes peeled in 2~3 weeks .

Edit
Thread started check it out in the off-road accessories forum!!

 

[roscoe 0202]

I don't see the radiator in front of that motor.
roscoe

 

[gmanpaint]

Just figured out that you can't easily use this Rad, with a body lift, on a 1st gen, for the 5.0 swap. The top tray with bolt holes on the stock Rad, is what holds the fan shroud in place.

2nd gens lower the entire Rad for the body lift, and 1st gens do not, just the shroud.

Not that many people do this mod, and how many actually would use this Rad for it? LOL!!

 

[bigred4x4]

Just figured out that you can't easily use this Rad, with a body lift, on a 1st gen, for the 5.0 swap. The top tray with bolt holes on the stock Rad, is what holds the fan shroud in place.

2nd gens lower the entire Rad for the body lift, and 1st gens do not, just the shroud.

Not that many people do this mod, and how many actually would use this Rad for it? LOL!!

My 96 has a 3" body lift and only the shroud has drop brackets the radiator is in its original location on the radiator support. The lower rad hose even had to be trimmed. But it was also done by a shop they used the relocation brackets for the rear bumper and just cut the frame up front welded a plate on the rails and welded the bumper with about 4" of frame rail attached to the top of the plate. Also a bracket to relocate the parking break cable and some drop brackets for other things like ground straps etc...

 

[gmanpaint]

What kit did they use? I have a BL on a 94 & a 95. Both are different, as I described. They might have just made the kit they had, work for your application.

2nd gens rads are lowered with two 3" upper straight bar brackets, and 2 lower sq tube side brackets. Since the height doesn't change, there is no need to cut the hose.

1st gens shrouds are lowered with the same type of straight bars, and a support underneath that bolts to the bottom of the shroud, and onto the core support. The stock hose still works.

 

[bigred4x4]

Well they obviously improvised the guy I bought it from in 07 had it done so it was lifted when I bought it but he probably took it to a shop and said I want a 3" body lift and this is just how they ended up doing it my shroud has drop brackets two at the top and nothing at the bottom. They obviously where improvising because of the way they lifted the front bumper I've never seen anything like it but at the same time with the equipment to do it it does kinda makes since a single wrench never had to be turned to raise the front bumper lol. Just a welder two plates and a plasma cutter. I have no idea which kit they used the guy I bought it from gave me a folder of receipts to all the mods done to the vehicle plus the original sales receipt from 95 I don't know what happened to that folder unfortunately but I do remember the shop name and the total cost of $600 for the body lift. Things like this and other stuff I've dealt with taking my ex to local shops is why I do all of my own work now plus it's a lot cheaper lol. I didn't realize the lower rad hose until I rebuilt the engine and had to replace it I had to cut it some to fit properly. The rad just has two bolts at the top and has some supports in the middle that sit in a support on the vehicle it only takes a few minutes to pull the radiator. Two bolts two hose clamps and it's out.

 

[traveler]

Just figured out that you can't easily use this Rad, with a body lift, on a 1st gen, for the 5.0 swap. The top tray with bolt holes on the stock Rad, is what holds the fan shroud in place.

I realize this brings in a whole new can of worms but... Couldn't you replace the engine driven fan (and of course the shroud) with an electric fan and shroud? Then it would line up with the radiator no matter where it is.

 

[gmanpaint]

Have to use those push thru clips to hold it all, so yeah, that would work.

Once again, the obvious eludes me. Lol

 

[traveler]

Just an update...

Recently made a trip to Tombstone while towing the camper, with temps in the mid 90's. The radiator did OK, though I was expecting better. Keeping my speed between 60-65, even on the 75 mph interstate, my temps hung around 209, peaking at 215 during climbs, entrance ramps, etc. This was with the AC off. Need to figure out how to get even better cooling. The transmission cooler worked like a champ however. Never saw a temp over 175. Usually hung out around 160.
The camper blew a tire on the interstate.. but thats a whole other story. lol

 

[CDW6212R]

I hope the camper and stuff survived, and you kept going safely.

That coolant temp is high, do you have some things in front of the grille/radiator opening? If it isn't blocked and the air control "walls" are in place steering air into the rad, it should be able to stay below 180* or 190* I believe. Blocked air would raise temps some, maybe 20-30+ depending on how much air is blocked.

 

[traveler]

I was thinking the same thing. The only things in front of my grill are the two 6" KC driving lights. I don't think they'd make that much difference but I guess they could. I also wondered how much the radiator relies on air from underneath. Could be the transmission cooler is getting all the "good air", and is giving warmed over air to the radiator. I'll have to crawl under and take a look.

 

[CDW6212R]

Those lights won't be an issue, but do you have the lower deflector(air dam) that mounts under the radiator? That I've removed from mine when I was working on the oil filter adapter, and haven't put it back yet. That keeps some air in front and going into the radiator, I don't know how much(I haven't checked my temps in this truck with the scan gauge).

How old is the T'Stat, any chance it's too old, or just bad?

 

[traveler]

I installed a new Tstat when I put the radiator in. And its a 180* Tstat. It runs around 185-190 when not towing.
The deflector left a long time ago. I do have a deflector moving air from the vents in the bumper to the transmission cooler. Perhaps its moving too much air to the transmission cooler and diverting it from the radiator

 

[CDW6212R]

The radiator is very tall, it should cool very well if an area similar to the round fan is flowing air well. I was planning to mount my trans cooler lower to get bumper air, hoping that will be enough. I hadn't thought about it that much, maybe the extra coolers should be high, since the engine pulls from the bottom. It depends on how much air is going through what part of the radiator, top/bottom etc.

Do you have a high 50/50 mix of anti-freeze? You might do better to drop the percentage down, and include an additive like Water Weter. I run under 1/3 in my coolant, though I don't know what I have now(leaking has had me add a little of each, often).

You only want enough anti-freeze to protect to the levels of cold and heat you see where you drive. Extra anti-freeze hurts cooling, water transfers heat better. The additives do that also, transfer heat better than just coolant. I have used it for over 15 years in everything, I typically see the gauge cooler by about one letter(R versus M etc).