Installing a new all aluminum two core radiator

[traveler]

Water wetter is a good idea. I put premixed 50/50 in when I installed the radiator. But being in AZ. I could stand to have a little less protection against freezing. Right now I'm looking at all the gaps in the shroud where the fan could be pulling warm air from the engine compartment or not pulling air due to lack of ducting. LoL wondering just how strong duct tape is at 65 mph.

 

[traveler]

I would not be averse to some sort of heat extractor on the hood. Vents, louvers, or a scoop reversed so it faces backward. Just have to find something that is both functional and aesthetic.

 

[CDW6212R]

There are plastic directing pieces along the sides of the radiator, maybe those are partially attached etc, any gaps like at the shroud will reduce the air moving through the radiator. I mentioned those things, because they are common causes of Mustang over heating issues.

For AZ, you need enough anti-freeze to protect above a high temperature of the coolant. Straight water wouldn't work if the temps run over 212, but you shouldn't need whatever the maximum possible, 265* is it? I'd pick a limit that you don't want to ever hit, and adjust the coolant by testing to that. Most gallon jugs have the chart on the back, find the high limit you want, cross that to the freezing protection, and make your mixture at least beat that.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

I would not be averse to some sort of heat extractor on the hood. Vents, louvers, or a scoop reversed so it faces backward. Just have to find something that is both functional and aesthetic.

...just a few more steps...you're almost there...

 

[Turdle]

215 degree coolant while towing uphill in Arizona would not concern me at all. I think that is well withing normal operating temps. Your 16 psi radiator cap should allow cooling up to 250 degrees before letting loose. Betty was hitting 225 with AC on in the summer on the way out to Colorado, before I put in the 97 dual core radiator. Even then, the idiot gauge was right in the middle. From what I read on the subject this is completely normal. When the temp was 215, what did your idiot gauge say? I bet it was right in the middle.

The PCM has a trouble code for too high or too cold coolant. 225 degrees will not set it off.




I'd like some real world scanguage users to report the temps they see in the summer while just running AC, no towing. You might be surprised.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

From what I read on the subject this is completely normal. When the temp was 215, what did your idiot gauge say? I bet it was right in the middle.

Yup.

Mine is right in the middle at 215. 99% of the time while cruising it's just under (not touching) the sailboat at 190.

Some cutout heat extractor vents would help greatly in extreme circumstance/environments.

I would advise not putting too much water in the coolant system, especially if you travel often. Not only does coolant help lube the pump and inhibit corrosion but all it takes is one unforeseen freezing night to blow out your new radiator or something else. Not worth the extra few degrees of cooling protection you would otherwise gain.

 

[gmanpaint]

As soon as I figure how to use my new scan gauge, I will share what I find.

Still haven't figured how to input the trans temp reading on it. I'm such a newb goob.

 

[CDW6212R]

I agree that 210* or so is no huge issue under extreme conditions, but that's about the high it should ever hit.

The coolant additives lubricate the WP better than anti-freeze, run the best mixture to cover the temps where you drive. Anything more than that wastes money and cools less(raises the running temps).

I can put my scan gauge in my 302 truck for work again. I've trusted the cooling system a lot from owning other Explorers, I hadn't worried about it after I replaced the coolant and hoses. I'll do that and post how the 302 does with the thick radiator, in my severe duty use(about 42 miles in four hours, stopping 625ish times).

 

[traveler]

I appreciate all the thoughts and ideas, its what I'm here for.
For the record, Jon thanks for the knowledge. I have been curious as to just how hot "too hot" is. I know from science class that fluids under pressure have a higher boiling point, just didn't know how much higher 16psi would get me. If I can go 225 I may even run the AC next time! (Sandi would sure appreciate it. hehe)

Centaurus, the louvers are a good idea (and I love the hood bulge) but I'm gonna stick to the stock hood. I've been looking at various scoops that may look good as a cover over a hole in the hood. Considering a 2000-2004 Mustang GT scoop. Keep the pics coming.

Don, definitely going to add some Coolant additive, just don't know which one is better. Any recommendations? Also considering draining the coolant, flushing the system, and putting in fresh stuff. Hate to spend the money on it but want this thing to be able to tow the camper, and run the AC, all in the middle of an AZ summer. hehe Yea, I don't want much do I?

Greg, you'll get that Scangauge to work. I did. Jon was helpful, I'll read up on the manual again and see if I can remember how to do it.

 

[CDW6212R]

The Water Wetter has been the cheapest brand to buy, used to be about $7, now closer to $10 I think. Other brands run as much as $25, and they all seem to work about the same, a little boost of better heat transfer.

Buy pure anti-freeze, it is much cheaper per gallon that way. I've been getting one for about $18 total through Amazon, and one does me fine in my vehicles that hold about three gallons. So the cost isn't bad to replace coolant. Be sure to buy a 2-3 gallons of distilled water, that's easy to get and better than tap water.

Ooh, look here, I just checked on Water Wetter. It's around $14 for a 12oz bottle(one vehicle), and this half gallon(64oz) is $31; https://www.amazon.com/Red-Super-Wa...8&qid=1524690585&sr=8-2&keywords=Water+Wetter
That'll work for five cars.

 

[traveler]

You pretty much just describe my plans... LOL Now, anyone know how to clean those overflow tanks out?

Oh yea, the trailer and all contents came out just fine. I felt a "bump" and a sway but the trailer continued to pull just fine. About a mile later another motorist pulled up and began pointing to my trailer. Universal sign for "you got trouble". So I pulled over and found rubber bands where my tire was. Put on the spare, and continued on my way.

 

[CDW6212R]

You pretty much just describe my plans... LOL Now, anyone know how to clean those overflow tanks out?

How dirty are they? Mine is basically clear/clean, from adding due to a leak. The stop leak I used had a little sediment, but I sucked it all out and put it in my old CV(which needs new coolant anyway).

Use a water hose, hand over opening. If that isn't enough, spray some engine degreaser in it, and let it set, then spray it out with hose.

 

[traveler]

The coolant looks brown in the Overflow tank. As you know, I put a new radiator on it, flushing it then. and I of course put new coolant in when I installed it. So I am guessing that any "brown" is coming from the dirty overflow tank. I like the degreaser idea. Just have to get the tank removed so I can fill it, slosh it around, and rinse it.

 

[CDW6212R]

If you think the hose leading to the overflow tank is filthy/plugged, then it could use cleaning. But I bet just spraying inside the tank installed will work fine. You could capture the old coolant to recycle if it's kind of full etc, by removing the hose and catching it(with another length of hose, or a large pan underneath). R&R'ing that overflow tank is not quick and easy.

I was out today and looked in it again. Mine is about 1/3 full(still losing an imperceptible amount(no puddles)), and with a little sediment from the K'Seal I used. That stuff is not all liquid, there are some solids in it, and they circulate around, and back into the overflow tank.

 

[traveler]

I believe I've got a small leak as well, around the thermostat. So I probably have another day of draining, flushing, repairing the leak, and refilling ahead of me. I just hate working on the coolant system, any part of it.

 

[CDW6212R]

Oh yes, leaks suck. Every car I've bought has had several leaks generally. This 98 was covered on the bottom side, I couldn't tell where the oil was from. It just takes time, cleaning a lot, looking, replacing the obvious things, leak stop chemicals etc. My oil consumption is now 99% from the heads(valve seals), but the coolant leak is tiny now, and it's basically the radiator tanks, and the timing cover gasket. I'll replace those when I get a long 2-3 days off to do that.

Go slow with installing the thermostat. With it being vertical, it needs to have the intake not having coolant dribbling out, and the gasket should be left to setup a short while. Spread RTV on the gasket and stick it on the outlet piece, let it dry(set up) for several minutes. Then with the bolts ready, slowly place the housing and T'Stat on the intake, and carefully/slowly thread the bolts. That's the point where any impatience or hurrying causes the T'Stat to drop down between the intake and the housing(there's a leak). You wiggle the housing while it's in place, while the bolts are being just snugged up. Then the rest is basic bolt it on stuff.

 

[traveler]

Thanks. That sounds like a plan. Looks like I know what I'm doing tomorrow.

 

[Spudhut]

Not to hijack the thread, but what year trans cooler your running? Are the red fans a stock application as well? What is controlling the fans operations? Thermostatic Relay? I have been thinking of adding another trans cooler to my V8 project but this looks to be a better way.

Thanks

 

[traveler]

The cooler I got from a salvage yard. It came out of a late model F-350 V10. The fans I found on EBay. There is no thermostat on them, I have a switch in the cab to turn them on and off. I monitor the trans temp with the scangaugeII. The power runs through a relay for safety, and comes from a switched source so the fans shut off with the ignition.

 

[Turdle]

You can try to use a shop vac to get all the crud out of the reservoir. Be sure the outlet nipple on the bottom flows freely, as this is where the clogging stuff ends up. Once clogged, it will allow expansion ( coolant into reservoir) but act like a one way valve blocking flow back into the radiator.